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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, thought I'd post some pictures for the issue I'm having with the coolant. I've owned the car for about 5 years now and up until about mid May while traveling back from Lorella Springs the expansion bottle never had air in it and the overflow bottle always settled back to it's original cold position. Now the expansion bottle has a massive air section in it and the over flow fills above the MAX mark and never gets sucked back in. I have manually removed the coolant from the over flow and bled the air out of the expansion bottle to just have it do the same again after a 15 min drive. At idol I can't see any bubbles and no sign of leaks from the expansion bottle to the overflow or anywhere in the system. It doesn't seem to be loosing coolant just pushing it into the overflow and not sucking back again.

When I first bought the car I replaced the expansion bottle and did the glow plug timer and steel tip glow plugs not long after.
The radiator cap is about 2 years old along with the rad and hoses.

I'm unfortunately leaning towards a crack in the head.

Whats everyones thoughts

IMG_2948.JPG


IMG_2949.JPG
 

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It will have cracked between the glow plugs and the valve. Very common due to the long 5min glow time.

Get a new AMC head and fit a glow timer and it will out live you.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Hi all, thought I'd post some pictures for the issue I'm having with the coolant. I've owned the car for about 5 years now and up until about mid May while traveling back from Lorella Springs the expansion bottle never had air in it and the overflow bottle always settled back to it's original cold position. Now the expansion bottle has a massive air section in it and the over flow fills above the MAX mark and never gets sucked back in. I have manually removed the coolant from the over flow and bled the air out of the expansion bottle to just have it do the same again after a 15 min drive. At idol I can't see any bubbles and no sign of leaks from the expansion bottle to the overflow or anywhere in the system. It doesn't seem to be loosing coolant just pushing it into the overflow and not sucking back again.

When I first bought the car I replaced the expansion bottle and did the glow plug timer and steel tip glow plugs not long after.
The radiator cap is about 2 years old along with the rad and hoses.

I'm unfortunately leaning towards a crack in the head.

Whats everyones thoughts

View attachment 511723

View attachment 511724
First up ensure the clamps and hose from the expansion tank to the overflow tank are good nick and perfectly sealed, a leak here can cause overflow to not get sucked back to expansion tank on cooling, happened to me a couple of years ago, I found a slight suction leak at a clamp. This will not always cause fluid to leak out but it can allow air to be ingested as the system cools, worth a look before doing anything else.

The other thing to try if you can get hold of the gear is to pressure test the sytem, when I had my doubts I did this overnight on a cold engine up to full cap pressure and also did one with the engine warm, but pressure will change as engine cools so you need to take that into account.
 

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nissan
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Discussion Starter #4
It will have cracked between the glow plugs and the valve. Very common due to the long 5min glow time.

Get a new AMC head and fit a glow timer and it will out live you.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I was looking at MR Cylinder Head with Permaseal VRS gasket kit how does that rate compared with AMC head?
Already have the glow timer installed so all good there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First up ensure the clamps and hose from the expansion tank to the overflow tank are good nick and perfectly sealed, a leak here can cause overflow to not get sucked back to expansion tank on cooling, happened to me a couple of years ago, I found a slight suction leak at a clamp. This will not always cause fluid to leak out but it can allow air to be ingested as the system cools, worth a look before doing anything else.

The other thing to try if you can get hold of the gear is to pressure test the sytem, when I had my doubts I did this overnight on a cold engine up to full cap pressure and also did one with the engine warm, but pressure will change as engine cools so you need to take that into account.
Thanks Ross, after reading your suggestion I had a look, the upper hose was so loose it basically just fell off even with the factory springs clamp. The lower part of the hose attached to the overflow bottle is so tight I can't turn or even move it.
The hose itself looks in pretty good condition.

So I cut the loose piece off at fitted a better hose clamp. Fingers crossed

IMG_2951.JPG


IMG_2950.JPG
 

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I was looking at MR Cylinder Head with Permaseal VRS gasket kit how does that rate compared with AMC head?
Already have the glow timer installed so all good there.
I'm not too sure on the Mr cylinder head brand. I can only trust the amc Heads are very good quality.
Hopefully your loose hose has fixed the issue.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not too sure on the Mr cylinder head brand. I can only trust the amc Heads are very good quality.
Hopefully your loose hose has fixed the issue.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I'm googling AMC heads at the moment and can't seem to find them, can you recall what AMC stands for?
Never mind I just found them.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Thanks Ross, after reading your suggestion I had a look, the upper hose was so loose it basically just fell off even with the factory springs clamp. The lower part of the hose attached to the overflow bottle is so tight I can't turn or even move it.
The hose itself looks in pretty good condition.

So I cut the loose piece off at fitted a better hose clamp. Fingers crossed

View attachment 511733

View attachment 511732
Check the lower overflow tank level every day when cold, I did it everyday for a few weeks then weekly for a while to make sure It was nailed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well it's getting worse.:( I drove the car to the city and back about 70 klms and now it appears thats it's now using coolant. I've had a good look all over the engine and coolant system and can't find any leaks. I rang Powercurve for some advice and they strongly suspect a cracked head. I also rang an Aussie manufacture of coolant test systems to purchase some equipment and they advised me not to waste my money it'll be the head:oops:

So it looks like I'll be stripping the head down after the Show and Shine and I'll document here to show everyone my findings.

IMG_2954.JPG
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Well it's getting worse.:( I drove the car to the city and back about 70 klms and now it appears thats it's now using coolant. I've had a good look all over the engine and coolant system and can't find any leaks. I rang Powercurve for some advice and they strongly suspect a cracked head. I also rang an Aussie manufacture of coolant test systems to purchase some equipment and they advised me not to waste my money it'll be the head:oops:

So it looks like I'll be stripping the head down after the Show and Shine and I'll document here to show everyone my findings.

View attachment 511824
There is an issue with sniff testing the coolant on a diesel, if you get a positive result, yes you definitely have an issue, if you get a negative result you can still have an issue and not know it.

Pressure testing does work though, but if you are using coolant then that is bad news. Might be a bit early but take the rocker cover cap off and look for creamy solution around the inside of the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There is an issue with sniff testing the coolant on a diesel, if you get a positive result, yes you definitely have an issue, if you get a negative result you can still have an issue and not know it.

Pressure testing does work though, but if you are using coolant then that is bad news. Might be a bit early but take the rocker cover cap off and look for creamy solution around the inside of the cap.
Cheers I'll have a look.
 

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In process of doing a head for a mate on zd30, yes it took a couple of tries with the coolant chemical test and all indications were pointing at head just tested for testing sake. Got head off and there is a slight but definite warp, I got one of the Mr cylinder head kits, good service from supplier. Must say this is not a basic job and not a five minute exercise, along with time to clean all clogged up manifold sections.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
In process of doing a head for a mate on zd30, yes it took a couple of tries with the coolant chemical test and all indications were pointing at head just tested for testing sake. Got head off and there is a slight but definite warp, I got one of the Mr cylinder head kits, good service from supplier. Must say this is not a basic job and not a five minute exercise, along with time to clean all clogged up manifold sections.
Would you suggest replacing the intake and exhaust manifold bolts?
I'll probably replace the timing chain and tensioner and thermostat while I'm there. I'll have a good look at the water pump while its all apart and may even replace it while I'm at it.

I think I'll strip it all down first then order all the parts in one go instead of guessing.
If I need new injectors would it be ok to get higher flow than standard for anticipation of getting the new Eclipse turbo?
 

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Would you suggest replacing the intake and exhaust manifold bolts?
I'll probably replace the timing chain and tensioner and thermostat while I'm there. I'll have a good look at the water pump while its all apart and may even replace it while I'm at it.

I think I'll strip it all down first then order all the parts in one go instead of guessing.
If I need new injectors would it be ok to get higher flow than standard for anticipation of getting the new Eclipse turbo?
I think your comment on decision after strip down is the way to go Jake, Garry can get what ever you need. Just give me a yell If I can be of assistance at any time, I would replace studs on both inlet and exhaust manifolds, the exhaust manifold on a DI is not known for warping but a surface might be worth doing.

I inspected my timing chain very carefully, 375000k on it and it was still fine so put it back in, there is a method of testing chain wear. I would get the IP tested (slow deterioration is not noticed as I found out when I got it all back when I changed the IP) and would also change the injectors, the thing to be careful of is the size of the injectors and how far you wish to go at a later date, if I had my time again I would probably go with 30% instead of the 50% that I did (OK people will say they are not rated at % but it is as close as **** is to swearing as a comparison) due to control of fuel/smoke down low, yours being an auto (I think) it will be more forgiving.

Timing chain tensioner and support bracket are pretty hardy, I dropped one while removing and the mongrel fell on the wear strip and broke it, so I had to urgently get one from local Nissan rather than Garry, if I hadn't of dropped it the damn thing would have gone back in no worries.
 

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The kit I got came with all studs but no nuts which is no issue
I would change if doing my own and couldn't get originals out
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I think your comment on decision after strip down is the way to go Jake, Garry can get what ever you need. Just give me a yell If I can be of assistance at any time, I would replace studs on both inlet and exhaust manifolds, the exhaust manifold on a DI is not known for warping but a surface might be worth doing.

I inspected my timing chain very carefully, 375000k on it and it was still fine so put it back in, there is a method of testing chain wear. I would get the IP tested (slow deterioration is not noticed as I found out when I got it all back when I changed the IP) and would also change the injectors, the thing to be careful of is the size of the injectors and how far you wish to go at a later date, if I had my time again I would probably go with 30% instead of the 50% that I did (OK people will say they are not rated at % but it is as close as **** is to swearing as a comparison) due to control of fuel/smoke down low, yours being an auto (I think) it will be more forgiving.

Timing chain tensioner and support bracket are pretty hardy, I dropped one while removing and the mongrel fell on the wear strip and broke it, so I had to urgently get one from local Nissan rather than Garry, if I hadn't of dropped it the damn thing would have gone back in no worries.
Thanks Ross, How do you think the +30 injectors would go with the standard turbo?
Who would you suggest to test the IP? The ECUTalk has it reading somewhere between 55 and 60 when the car is warm and idling when in park.

I'm also going to completely remove the EGR system starting from the exhaust manifold.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Thanks Ross, How do you think the +30 injectors would go with the standard turbo?
Who would you suggest to test the IP? The ECUTalk has it reading somewhere between 55 and 60 when the car is warm and idling when in park.
I think the 30's would be fine with the std turbo until you went the Eclipse route, I would be skeptical of the 50's though based on my experience down low (and that is where the issues lie) even with the eclipse.

The ICV% sounds good so could be OK, pressure it delivers is the big thing, and it is a mongrel of a job if you need to do it later, have a chat to diesel specialists around Caboolture, there are a couple up here I know of, they can also test your injectors so that maybe you could put off replacement until you got the Eclipse.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After much thought and discussion with my wife we've decided to take the car to PowerCurve Performance to replace the head and have any other work that possibly needs doing done by them. The thought is, I've never rebuilt or replace a head and even though the manual is very clear and the support on here is outstanding I could make a very costly mistake. This is our only car and I need to have as little down time as possible. By having a PowerCurve work on it there'll be a guarantee or warranty with the repair.

My wife is really pushing for me to carry out the repair to save on labour, but I work full time so it'd be mostly weekends which means a couple of weeks without a car and if there's more problems like glazed bore or piston damage it would really push the repair time out. I also don't have all the tools needed for the job.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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After much thought and discussion with my wife we've decided to take the car to PowerCurve Performance to replace the head and have any other work that possibly needs doing done by them. The thought is, I've never rebuilt or replace a head and even though the manual is very clear and the support on here is outstanding I could make a very costly mistake. This is our only car and I need to have as little down time as possible. By having a PowerCurve work on it there'll be a guarantee or warranty with the repair.

My wife is really pushing for me to carry out the repair to save on labour, but I work full time so it'd be mostly weekends which means a couple of weeks without a car and if there's more problems like glazed bore or piston damage it would really push the repair time out. I also don't have all the tools needed for the job.
You won't regret that decision mate. I'll be able to check it out for you regularly ;).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
After taking the car to Powercurve and having them check it over they were unable to establish why it was pressurising the coolant system, they had the car for close to a week and ran various tests and suggested to take the car home and continue to drive it until it gets worse.

So I have decided to pull the head off and started today.

Day 1
Pulled the intake off and clean as a whistle. I cleaned the intake about 5 years ago. Blocking the EGR and installing a catch can definitely works.
512663



This is as far as I got today, I don't have a socket big enough to rotate the crank to set TDC of piston 1, so it's a job for tomorrow.
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Inspected the coolant paths and they are clean so I don't see any reason to remove the water pump to inspect in.
The injectors don't look to bad but I'll take them to a diesel injecting specialist for testing.

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I only broke 1 bolt on the upper coolant connection on the timing cover and rounded 1 bolt head on another coolant pipe near the turbo stopping me from removing the exhaust manifold, so I'm hoping I can remove the heads with it still attached.
 
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