when i bought my patrol i noticed hubs were locked in dunno how long it had been like that for but yeah how bad is it??? the car is in 2wd
driving around with the hubs locked in badd??
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No damage, but your fuel econ will suffer, turning all the front driveline for no reason.
Take the hubs out when in 2WD, unless it's just used off road 100%.
Cheers
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Not bad at all, in fact it's probably a good thing. Most old 4x4s didn't even have manual hubs. You will have a well oiled front diff and maybe slightly increased fuel consumption but nothing to worry about. According to the gregories manual it stats hubs should be locked monthly on the road for 16kms. Where they got 16kms beats me.
My hubs are locked 50/50 but I sometimes take the fire trail to work. Just dont do 4x4 high or low with hubs locked on the tar.
Cheers dez
I think it is most likely because 16km is almost exactly 10 miles.
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The only thing that you will be doing is increasing your fuel economy as already stated, but also you will be running your diff and transfer case constantly on the back side of the gearsets. Not a huge issue, but why cauz more wear for no reason? Also your tailshaft will be spinning, wearing out the uni's.
As there is bugger all load, this wear is minimal, but I'm not a fan of wearing things out for no reason.
As there is bugger all load, this wear is minimal, but I'm not a fan of wearing things out for no reason.
i was alway under the impression that it screws your CV's cause both wheels are on the ground there locked together, when you turn the inside wheel is turning a faction slower than the outside wheel which causes binding were is offroad you dont notice it beacuse the indise wheel will slip easier on the loose surfaces, i could be wrong but i figure they made them unlock for a reason roght.
No not exactly. When your hubs are locked in your axles are not locked together. The only way this would happen is if you had Diff lock fitted & you where driving around with the hubs & the Diff lock engaged at the same time, even an LSD diff would not do this as thay are designed to slip when wheel speeds are not equal but I suspect an LSD would put some extra load on CV's if you had one fitted & was driving around on the black stuff with the hubs locked in.
No your getting confused with transmission wind up which results from the front and rear wheels being locked together in a rigid link ie; not through a centre differential like a fulltime 4wd therefore not allowing independent rotational speeds between the front and rear of the vehicle, not cross axle.
Like everyone else has stated the only adverse effects are an increase in fuel consumption. Less newer cars have FWH beacuse they have much more fuel efficient motors
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There is nothing bad about driving around in 2wd with your hubs locked in , in fact you should lock them in at least once a month to lubricate everything in the front diff pumpkin its written in the owners manual to do so .
You can if you wish leave them locked in permanently and drive thousands of km's the extra fuel consumption and wear and tear will not be noticed as it will be minimal
However DO NOT engage the transfercase ( put it in 4wd ) especially low range when the hubs are locked on hard surface as then you will get windup which is really bad
Apologies for thread hi jack but a question about my locking hub.
It's the factory manual/auto hub and after I have reversed then drive forward it tries to engage and I can hear it clicking on the axle. (left side only).
I recently had my bearings out for repacking so I haven't refitted the hub properly obviously. Thing is I took it off again and checked it's located properly, axle is good and circlip is seated etc.
I even locked the hub and fitted it slotted to the inner dog gear but for some reason it is near engaging. There is no grease inside the hub either
.
Any hints please? (sorry shortstuff)
It's the factory manual/auto hub and after I have reversed then drive forward it tries to engage and I can hear it clicking on the axle. (left side only).
I recently had my bearings out for repacking so I haven't refitted the hub properly obviously. Thing is I took it off again and checked it's located properly, axle is good and circlip is seated etc.
I even locked the hub and fitted it slotted to the inner dog gear but for some reason it is near engaging. There is no grease inside the hub either
.Any hints please? (sorry shortstuff
)
You can check this pictureApologies for thread hi jack but a question about my locking hub.
It's the factory manual/auto hub and after I have reversed then drive forward it tries to engage and I can hear it clicking on the axle. (left side only).
I recently had my bearings out for repacking so I haven't refitted the hub properly obviously. Thing is I took it off again and checked it's located properly, axle is good and circlip is seated etc.
I even locked the hub and fitted it slotted to the inner dog gear but for some reason it is near engaging. There is no grease inside the hub either
Any hints please? (sorry shortstuff
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Very helpful first post but a little late maybe
Hey it came up on the "new" page and I found it interesting!Very helpful first post but a little late maybe
You never know... His hub might still be clicking 11 years later?
If it is aligned correctly then it is more than likely the auto clutch in hub is engaging or not disengaging. I followed the instructions in this thread to remove mine and no longer had problems.
www.patrol4x4.com
Convert Auto hubs to manual pictorial explanation.
I know this has been covered before but i thought I'd do a pictorial explanation for us blokes. It was once said "Books written by blokes for blokes would be brochures with pictures." Here's my book. For people with manual hubs, move along, nothing to see here. For those with auto hubs that...
www.patrol4x4.com
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