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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there,

I've been through a search of multiple different people's drowning experiences and learned a lot from them.
I have some specific questions I'm hoping people can help out with, thanks in advance.

My vehicle is a 1993 Nissan Safari GQ manual.

The scenario was, after a 3 day ski trip we had a drive back out a river valley. I lost the track momentarily and continued up the river. First crossing went ok and then second ended up with me on a silty bottom. I reversed and almost managed to get out before digging in.
Water was at the top of the wheel (32") on driver's front, and about halfway up on the rear.
We were sitting in the water for approx. 2 hours before getting out.
A couple turned up to camp just as the light was fading. He reversed into the river a little and I was able to winch out.
We then drove 2 hours home and I parked up for the night, thoroughly spent after the stressful event.

The next morning I woke up to 2 flat front tyres, took them to the shop and got them sorted.
Stripped out the interior and dried the carpets. Dried out the inside for about 5 days.
Dropped all gearbox, t-case and diff fluids. Water had gotten into gbox and front diff. Put in new oils.
Took off starter motor and cleaned, dried and re-greased it.
Last night I got the truck going and went for a test drive. It drove well enough but I still have a few things to sort.

The Handbrake light is not working, I've checked the switch and checked for the 7-9 clicks, so I'm thinking that maybe the shoes are jammed in the drum?
Can I take the rubber bungs out and spray brake cleaner in to see if it loosens up or will this cause problems?

The diff lock light doesn't come on, any ideas?

The brake pedal is pretty firm and the clutch pedal is not great. There has definitely been some water in the bell housing.
I took the clutch fork boot off and there were 3 small ball bearings inside, where will these have come from?

This is a long ramble, I've done plenty of forum searches and have found similar problems but hope that someone can help out.

Thanks,
 

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Re take out bungs and spray brake cleaner into hand brake drum, yes I would give that a go.
Diff lock light? Hard to say, could be a connection.
Ball bearings in the clutch housing, could be out of the throwout bearing, but I would think that would be quite noisy when declutching.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Factory diff lock, will jack it up tomorrow and see if it engages both wheels, light worked before the swim.
Took the bungs out and sprayed brake cleaner into handbrake drum. Cranked it up a dozen times, still no light coming on,
 

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If the bearings are from the thrust bearing which they probably are I woud talk to a mechanic and get it replaced asap before it failes completly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its getting to that point I think. I wonder if the clutch and brake fluid has taken on water too? The brakes are stiff and the clutch is soft..
 

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Brakes, clutch are a sealed systems water should only be able to get in via the reservoir bowls or if you have fluid leaking from somehere water can get in there. It may be vacuum if the alternator was submerged but not sure or surface rust forming. Things may need stripping, cleaning to free them up and regrease uni joints, drive shafts may be even need to be pulled apart and cleaned out lots of time consuming jobs some of the fun of 4wdriving.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Firstly, thanks to everyone for their replies.

The clutch operation cylinder has a torn boot too, could this be my clutch issue, that this is shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Brakes, clutch are a sealed systems water should only be able to get in via the reservoir bowls or if you have fluid leaking from somehere water can get in there. It may be vacuum if the alternator was submerged but not sure or surface rust forming. Things may need stripping, cleaning to free them up and regrease uni joints, drive shafts may be even need to be pulled apart and cleaned out lots of time consuming jobs some of the fun of 4wdriving.

There's a small vacuum hose running off the back of the alternator to a switch by the master cylinder,
On the other side of the switch is another vacuum hose, this is not connected anywhere. Any ideas where/if it should be connected?
 

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The clutch operation cylinder has a torn boot too, could this be my clutch issue, that this is shot?
No, the boot is there to keep the shaft clean. Dirt on the shaft can damage the seal and make it leak fluid. If you have no fluid leak I'd say the seal is good. I think the issue is probably vacuum related.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There's a small vacuum hose running off the back of the alternator to a switch by the master cylinder,
On the other side of the switch is another vacuum hose, this is not connected anywhere. Any ideas where/if it should be connected?
After scouring the manual, it looks like that is the A/C vacuum switch
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have gone back to 11+ hour work days so not too much time to work on the truck.
Took the truck to a mechanic for the clutch, throwout bearing was sweet. He found another ball bearing but said he had no idea where it came from.
Old clutch seemed to be in ok condtion, at least I know now.

Winch didn't want to work so pulled that out and rebuilt it under guidance of Leethal's write up, big thank mate.
Winch motor bench tests fine, but it seems one solenoid is gone, It only clicks off one pole when bench tested.

I wonder if the diff lock and brake pressure problem has been caused by vacuum pump.

There's a squeal now on start up, and I had some starting issues after it was parked up for a while.

Checked for a parasitic drain, found 0.09 Amp, it went away when I pulled out alternator fuse. Is 0.09Amp to much of a drain?
Alternator is putting out 28.0-28.1V and the batteries are charging at 27.8-27.9V..
 
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