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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im ready to purchase a dual battery set up but does anyone have a rough idea on price for a half decent set up? It will only be needed to run our 47ltr ARB fridge and the camper from time to time. I know prices can vary (depending on requirements) but if anyone has an idea of how much $$$$ would roughly be needed that would be great.
Also if anyone can recommended someone around the bayside area of Brisbane to do the job. At this stage I was thinking of Pitstop 4x4 at Hemmant as I have used them before with no issues.
Cheers.
 

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Mine cost about $500 in parts.
Get a Redarc 100 amp smart solenoid.
2x 100 amp circuit breakers which go near your batteries (anyone who tells you dont need these does not know what they are doing and has never had to claim insurance on a vehicle fire)

Good solid battery tray. Medium quality deep cycle or AGM battery.

This setup is good for a fridge, you will want something very different if you want to put a winch on later.

Use separate 6 square mm cable to each side of the back of your car. get a cig lighter and a hella plug wired in on each side (4 sockets total) put waterproof blade fuses close to the battery for these. You might want to run another to your centre console or something too.
 

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nissan
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ok battery tray anywhere from $160 - $200 then Battery again anywhere from $200 to well sky is almost the limit. Dual battery system. depends on which system you buy. once again anywhere from $150 to $600 plus the fitting... Mate roughly from at the cheaper end $500 DIY to over $1000 fitted.

I done my own and cost me to install myself $550.
 

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I went down this path (and I am on Bayside) - however I abandoned the dual battery under the hood option for a few reasons:

1. Heat fron Turbo meant the ONLY battery to go under the bonnet is a wet cell
2. This means the best available would be something like a TRojan which is $400+
3. Wett Cell Batteries don't liketo discharge past 50%, which means even out of a 120A battery you only get 60A which is not much when you look at the cost to get one there
4. The Total price of Proper battery, tray, isolator and cables was close to $800 DIY and more depending on what you buy, most people buy the wrong or cheap batteries and wonder why on their second or third camping trip the fridge won't last through the night (heat and improper charging is the main reasons).
5. I could not separate the power supply from the car any anytime (to put in tent/camper/home)

So I went with a FLyer Mk3 Battey box from Sidewinder with built in isolator:

1. Total cost for Flyer and 120A AGM battery $600
2. False floor in boot meant I simply bolted some tie downs to the Batt box for safe transport
3. 40A Charge lead runs from Main Batt to anderson plug in boot (took literally 10mins install).
4. AGM Battery can be safely discharged to 20% with an expected reharge cycle of 300 charges (I charge it about 10 times a year so it will last as long as any battery) and give me 100AH which will give me clost to 5 days straight on a 60L Waeco.
5. I can unplug and install it in the tent or where ever, and it comes with 80A terminals, 20A Hella and Cig plugs and 50A Anderson plug out and in.
6. I don't have it in the car 90% of the time so its 35Kgs I'm not carrying around and it can live with a 3 stage charger keeping it topped up.

In summary similar in price but still cheaper, double the AH per dollar if you look at safe dishcarge amounts and portable.
 

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Im ready to purchase a dual battery set up but does anyone have a rough idea on price for a half decent set up? It will only be needed to run our 47ltr ARB fridge and the camper from time to time. I know prices can vary (depending on requirements) but if anyone has an idea of how much $$$$ would roughly be needed that would be great.
Also if anyone can recommended someone around the bayside area of Brisbane to do the job. At this stage I was thinking of Pitstop 4x4 at Hemmant as I have used them before with no issues.
Cheers.
If you are only using it for a frig and the Camper a Dual Battery Controller may be a better alternative... say an SC40 or SC80

Much lighter wiring gauges and cheaper circuit protection.

If you do need an emerg start once in a blue moon you can jumper the batteries or unbolt and swap
 

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I've recently done this in my patrol using new parts and some parts I had from previous 4wd:
- Battery tray - ~$190
- Redarc smart solenoid - ~$100
- 2 x 100A circuit breakers - ~$30ea = ~$60
- 4 gauge cabling to hook batteries together + conduit + cableties - ~$50
- 8 gauge cabling to run to rear sockets - ~$40

So this comes to around $400 - $450 depending on prices and stuff, then add the battery cost on top of this, I'm running an AGM 120ah battery at $350 with heat shield (the aluminium stuff used for around turbo's) which was another $50. So yeah, basically any where from $500 upwards just for parts, then fitting if need be. Hope this helps.
 

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I had mine done last week, $1150-00, all up.

Auxiliary battery 75 ah (N70), redarc solenoid etc.

Top job on wires etc. 1 x double & 1 x single outlet in the back.

For me the issue was saving space in the rear for the stuff I want to take, not what I have to take! :D Next job, long range tank, no jerry cans, no roof rack, no trailer.

I guess thats what its all about, setting things up to suit yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome....Thanks for all the info.
Off shopping tomorrow....will let you know what I end up with.
Cheers
 

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Sorry to hijack but since this topic came up...
I've been trying to suss out which tray to get...
ARB, Piranha, eBay special or other ideas??? Which and why is the best choice...
I'm not worried about cost for the tray...
 

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I brought mine thru ebay and was a Piranha tray. Came with all required bolts.
 

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Dual battery Charging

Anyone using dc-dc charger instead of isolator?.
Altenator in my 'troll doesn't make enough volts to charge my aux battery,according to the battery specs?.
 

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Autos are Superior
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Have heard excellent things first hand on Piranha and warranty - even 5yrs after purchase.
worth considering.
 

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I went down this path (and I am on Bayside) - however I abandoned the dual battery under the hood option for a few reasons:

1. Heat fron Turbo meant the ONLY battery to go under the bonnet is a wet cell
2. This means the best available would be something like a TRojan which is $400+
3. Wett Cell Batteries don't liketo discharge past 50%, which means even out of a 120A battery you only get 60A which is not much when you look at the cost to get one there
I bounced a similar theory off my local battery guy when buying my aux battery. He says this is a common misconception that he blames squarely on forums!!! He told me the Ah rating on both wet cell and AGM is based on a number of cycles (ie 100 or 300 or 1000 or something - can't remember the exact no, so essentially a full discharge on a wet cell might be 150Ah, but that will kill it, so it won't be rated at 100Ah, probably more like 100Ah, as this is the capacity it is rated to be discharged at AND last the required no of cycles. AGM on the other hand probably only needs a full discharge capacity of about 120Ah to get the same 100Ah rating, but both will provide last the same rated number of cycles at the 100Ah discharge. This also means that if you discharge it less than the rated amount, you'll typically get better life again from the wet cell deep cycle, whereas being less susceptible to the effects of discharge depth on battery life you won't get the same increase in life from shallower cycling on an AGM.

He also said most users will never get their $$ worth out of an AGM, simply cause they don't use them enough. Abuse them and they'll apparently die in no time at all.

Deep Cycle wet cells won't get fully charged on an alternator either, and need to be topped up by trickle charging at higher voltage for max life too.

The other option is a wet cell 'composite' or 'marine' style battery too. Part way between a cranker and deep cycle in construction, they are rated for both, take charge faster than a deep cycle, are happier with alternator charge than deep cycle, more heat tolerant than AGM and much cheaper. Just don't completely flatten them and should still handle cycling fine. Waeco fridges have a low voltage cut out that will help, or you can buy one cheaply.
 

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dc to dc

KRYPTY Been using dc to dc charger for 9 months now .puts in 20amps max to deep cycle battery this way it wont cook the battery No need for heavy cables from main battery to dc charger. Have a talk to a good auto electrican, can explain a lot better than me .hope this helps, rodney.
 

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ARB battery tray-$118
Works for me.
 

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Pirana battery tray here. The previous owner had installed second battery and then must've removed all of it before selling. The inner guard was cracked where the battery tray bolts on to it. The pirana's also have a bracket that bolts on under neath it. The previous owner's tray must not have had this bracket, or just neglected to fit it, thus causing the inner guard to crack, from the battery not having enough support. I don't know what the other manufactures put out, but just check if they have a bracket which bolts on from the right hand side to the underneath of it.
 

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I bounced a similar theory off my local battery guy when buying my aux battery. He says this is a common misconception that he blames squarely on forums!!! He told me the Ah rating on both wet cell and AGM is based on a number of cycles (ie 100 or 300 or 1000 or something - can't remember the exact no, so essentially a full discharge on a wet cell might be 150Ah, but that will kill it, so it won't be rated at 100Ah, probably more like 100Ah, as this is the capacity it is rated to be discharged at AND last the required no of cycles. AGM on the other hand probably only needs a full discharge capacity of about 120Ah to get the same 100Ah rating, but both will provide last the same rated number of cycles at the 100Ah discharge. This also means that if you discharge it less than the rated amount, you'll typically get better life again from the wet cell deep cycle, whereas being less susceptible to the effects of discharge depth on battery life you won't get the same increase in life from shallower cycling on an AGM.

He also said most users will never get their $$ worth out of an AGM, simply cause they don't use them enough. Abuse them and they'll apparently die in no time at all.

Deep Cycle wet cells won't get fully charged on an alternator either, and need to be topped up by trickle charging at higher voltage for max life too.

The other option is a wet cell 'composite' or 'marine' style battery too. Part way between a cranker and deep cycle in construction, they are rated for both, take charge faster than a deep cycle, are happier with alternator charge than deep cycle, more heat tolerant than AGM and much cheaper. Just don't completely flatten them and should still handle cycling fine. Waeco fridges have a low voltage cut out that will help, or you can buy one cheaply.
Find a different Battery Dude man...
 

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I bounced a similar theory off my local battery guy when buying my aux battery. He says this is a common misconception that he blames squarely on forums!!! He told me the Ah rating on both wet cell and AGM is based on a number of cycles (ie 100 or 300 or 1000 or something - can't remember the exact no, so essentially a full discharge on a wet cell might be 150Ah, but that will kill it, so it won't be rated at 100Ah, probably more like 100Ah, as this is the capacity it is rated to be discharged at AND last the required no of cycles. AGM on the other hand probably only needs a full discharge capacity of about 120Ah to get the same 100Ah rating, but both will provide last the same rated number of cycles at the 100Ah discharge. This also means that if you discharge it less than the rated amount, you'll typically get better life again from the wet cell deep cycle, whereas being less susceptible to the effects of discharge depth on battery life you won't get the same increase in life from shallower cycling on an AGM.

He also said most users will never get their $$ worth out of an AGM, simply cause they don't use them enough. Abuse them and they'll apparently die in no time at all.

Deep Cycle wet cells won't get fully charged on an alternator either, and need to be topped up by trickle charging at higher voltage for max life too.

The other option is a wet cell 'composite' or 'marine' style battery too. Part way between a cranker and deep cycle in construction, they are rated for both, take charge faster than a deep cycle, are happier with alternator charge than deep cycle, more heat tolerant than AGM and much cheaper. Just don't completely flatten them and should still handle cycling fine. Waeco fridges have a low voltage cut out that will help, or you can buy one cheaply.
Not a lot of truth in that story I am afraid.

This web site is excellent for technical information and it's easy to read Dual Battery Systems & Alternator charging

AGM Batteries

Some noteable quotes:

"If treated correctly (and few are) conventional deep cycle batteries can outlast AGM’s, but only if they are well maintained and cycled within their design perimeters, with both correct discharging/charging and equalising (now that a whole other story) and with keeping electrolyte (water) levels up.
However if your main source of charging is from your vehicles alternator, or you need to place the batteries in places that are less than optimum for safe battery storage, keeping in mind that wet cell batteries give off hydrogen (explosive) gas as they are charging, then you should consider using AGM batteries as they are totally sealed and spill proof.

Did you know that if our good quality wet deep cycle batteries have been discharged fairly deeply, it can take 8-12 hours of continuous engine running to achieve just 70-80% charge?"

"As an example lets imagine you have a 100 Ah (Amp hour) battery, and you main charging source is you vehicles alternator or a standard automotive battery charger, now both of these will only charge this battery to about 75% (75 Ah), and you should not discharge your batteries below 50% (50 Ah in this case) of their capacity (see note below) if you want them to last, so all you can really safely use of this 100 Ah battery is 25 Ah, not much eh? "


  • "because of their very low internal resistance these batteries will fully charge at a lower voltage, and accept a much larger charge current, so when charging from a standard car/truck alternator these batteries will all but fully charge, and fast too, in about 2.5 to 3 hours!
  • they can occasionally be discharged much much deeper than conventional deep cycles without major damage.
  • these batteries when left unattended only self discharge at the rate of up to 3% per month, and even after 12 months sitting idle can be recharged and put back into full service without any ill effects. On the other hand a standard deep cycle battery if treated the same way will have destroyed it's self, it will no longer hold a good charge, and is sadly ready for the rubbish tip and recycling, not cycling!
  • AGM batteries were originally developed for the military, they are very robust and will take a real pounding. "
"Lets look at it in dollars and cents.
Using a 100 Ah deep cycle wet cell Trojan (the best), my price $325.
Useable capacity if charged with smart charging system............................ say 50Ah, cost $6.50 per Ah
Useable capacity if charged from the alternator or auto charger only........say 25Ah, cost $13.00 per Ah
Using a 100Ah AGM Battery, my price $355.
Useable capacity if charged with anything.............................................. lets say 80Ah, cost $4.50 Per Ah "

 

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KRYPTY Been using dc to dc charger for 9 months now .puts in 20amps max to deep cycle battery this way it wont cook the battery No need for heavy cables from main battery to dc charger. Have a talk to a good auto electrican, can explain a lot better than me .hope this helps, rodney.
THe best way to charge a battery in a car, but remember they cost as much as the bettery themselves, so if your a light user like me its a waste. I should get 5 years out of my AGM, maybe more while it's not in use, so 10+ years from to batteries for the cost of one charger and one battery. Tough choice.
 

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Battery Tray

Hi Mate,

I bought a powder coated Battery tray (ARB) from ARB for my GU IV about 2 weeks ago. Came with all the fittings for $118.00. Had all the other gear pulled out of my old GQ.

Cheers
 
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