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Hey All,

I've recently purchased a 39L Engel and I tried running it off my current aux battery but after around 2 hours of the car being off, the fridge would also switch off (Low power cutout?).

Now, I'm looking to do a proper setup with an accessory panel but I'm stuck between whether I can just chuck a larger deep cycle battery under the bonnet to replace the current Aux battery or if I should go for a triple battery setup.

I will just be using it for my fridge, some led light strips and charging electronics. My dual battery system is utilising the Redarc isolator.

Any pros, cons and general help would be greatly appreciated as I am a little stuck with how to get either setup sorted.

Cheers in advance.

Pics below for something better to look at than just text.

520394
520395
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Hmmm! I can get almost 2 days out of my Waeco fridge, it's around 39-40L, I still have my 30 year old 30L Engel and it performed much the same. What size aux battery do you have?
 

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Hmmm! I can get almost 2 days out of my Waeco fridge, it's around 39-40L, I still have my 30 year old 30L Engel and it performed much the same. What size aux battery do you have?
And what is the age/condition of said battery?
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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And what is the age/condition of said battery?
The one I have now is around a year old, got it from Brad but the one before that, which is still sitting in the shed and still in good nick, was several years old, it's big test was the trip to WA and back in 2017, there were times the fridge sat in the car running without engine.
 

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My 60 litre will run for 2 days easy on my 100 ah that’s almost 3 years old now


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Discussion Starter #6
Cheers for all the responses.

This is the battery sitting in the passenger side Century Overlander 4x4 Battery N70ZZXHD - I am unsure of the age

May be worth noting I recently had issues where my compressor was dying out while I had it hooked up to that battery (Kings dual thumper).
 

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Cheers for all the responses.

This is the battery sitting in the passenger side Century Overlander 4x4 Battery N70ZZXHD - I am unsure of the age

May be worth noting I recently had issues where my compressor was dying out while I had it hooked up to that battery (Kings dual thumper).
Take it to a battery place and get it load tested, that will tell you the whole story. 2 hours is a ridiculously short running time.
 

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Take it to a battery place and get it load tested, that will tell you the whole story. 2 hours is a ridiculously short running time.
Cheers I'll get that done.

Is this pushing the side that a triple battery setup shouldn't be needed?
 

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Under normal situations a simple dual battery is fine.
My latest car only has one battery. So far


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Mate you only need 3 batteries in exceptional circumstances, I've been 4x4ing, camping and travelling for eons and never needed a third battery.
 

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I have been using the wrong battery’s for years. My auxiliary until I got fancy with a GU was just a second start battery.
Think it was a century. You only have basic needs at the moment.
Fridge is your only draw item at this stage (stick that compressor on your main and run the car unless your pumping up a bike tyre - no if’s or butts just do it and don’t argue!!).
As led lights and a couple of phone chargers draw bugger all. They are almost not worth counting.

As others mentioned. You should get min 2 days out of a battery on a warm day.

As for the 3rd. That’s just 35+kg a fat arse patrol just doesn’t need.


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Take it to a battery place and get it load tested, that will tell you the whole story. 2 hours is a ridiculously short running time.
Cheers for the help.
Tested the battery tonight and it sat at around 7V then when the car was on and charging it sat at 14V, it recommended a battery replacement. Going to trickle charge on the weekend and see how it goes. In the case it's still a dud is there any recommendations on what I should be getting and will I need to adjust anything with the isolator if I do put a new one in.


I have been using the wrong battery’s for years. My auxiliary until I got fancy with a GU was just a second start battery.
Think it was a century. You only have basic needs at the moment.
Fridge is your only draw item at this stage (stick that compressor on your main and run the car unless your pumping up a bike tyre - no if’s or butts just do it and don’t argue!!).
As led lights and a couple of phone chargers draw bugger all. They are almost not worth counting.

As others mentioned. You should get min 2 days out of a battery on a warm day.

As for the 3rd. That’s just 35+kg a fat arse patrol just doesn’t need.


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Definitely stopped using the compressor on the aux!
 

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After you've tested your battery as Ross suggests it should tell a lot. You may need to check the whole system as something is not right. Not that that is a very good battery for your forward requirements. Way before I looked at a third battery I would look to additional means of charging. You don't mention anything other than a Redarc isolator so only charging off alternator. I would put that third battery cost into a basic solar charging set up. Far better value in my book, although if you current battery is stuffed a decent deep cycle would be a must in my book too.

Just read your last post. 7 volts is totally dead and heading for stuffed so be interesting to see if that was a one off condition once you recharge. When you do recharge, let it sit for several hours no load or charge before testing voltage again that will give you much better indication of state of charge. It may have dropped a cell or 2 or just be rooted if you've been running compressor without engine running on a few occasions. I'm in that camp that you always run stuff that you use with engine on off the start battery and everything you run with engine off on the aux battery.
 

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Cheers for the help.
Tested the battery tonight and it sat at around 7V then when the car was on and charging it sat at 14V, it recommended a battery replacement. Going to trickle charge on the weekend and see how it goes. In the case it's still a dud is there any recommendations on what I should be getting and will I need to adjust anything with the isolator if I do put a new one in.
If that was a true load test, the battery is knackered. There are many good deep cycle batteries out there, the current battery I'm using is an AGM 110AH from memory, Brad @Yeti's Beast knows all the details, it is bloody heavy but strong as an Ox, I have a switchable digital readout mounted on my cargo barrier where I can check aux voltage when I'm away (don't leave it on though).
Won't need to do anything with isolation system.
 

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As for charging. I am currently using a ctek dcdc. But am thinking about putting my Redarc vsr back in. As it will charge my aux faster than any dcdc can do.
Ctek charges people the privilege to use a smart pass to do what a $30 solenoid will do (well Atleast how it was explained to me).

So you isolator will be fine for auxiliary charging while your car is running. As you have already tested it and it gets a nice 14+volts.

Even the redarc is fancy to what many of us ran 20yrs ago. And we survived running fridges and Fluoro lights etc on a single aux battery.
I used a simple terminal switch. My dad ran a simple silver can solenoid triggered of the alternator light.

As for battery. Just think about heat. No battery likes to be hot. But some do a better job of it.


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As for charging. I am currently using a ctek dcdc. But am thinking about putting my Redarc vsr back in. As it will charge my aux faster than any dcdc can do.
Ctek charges people the privilege to use a smart pass to do what a $30 solenoid will do (well Atleast how it was explained to me).

So you isolator will be fine for auxiliary charging while your car is running. As you have already tested it and it gets a nice 14+volts.

Even the redarc is fancy to what many of us ran 20yrs ago. And we survived running fridges and Fluoro lights etc on a single aux battery.
I used a simple terminal switch. My dad ran a simple silver can solenoid triggered of the alternator light.

As for battery. Just think about heat. No battery likes to be hot. But some do a better job of it.


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The heat issue is spot on turps
I killed an agm battery under the bonnet a few years ago after I was told they don’t like it
Changed to a century flooded 100 amp deep cycle and haven’t had a problem since.
 

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The heat issue is spot on turps
I killed an agm battery under the bonnet a few years ago after I was told they don’t like it
Changed to a century flooded 100 amp deep cycle and haven’t had a problem since.
That is interesting, I have an AGM under my bonnet, been there almost a year, maybe a little more, I got it through Brad ( think I said that already) and we had discussed the heat issue, I insulated the two sides open to the turbo, I also don't have the turbo heat shield in place, never bothered putting it back after last turbo play. For a couple of months I randomly checked the temps at the battery itself after harder drives and 50c was about it, battery still going strong.
 

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That is interesting, I have an AGM under my bonnet, been there almost a year, maybe a little more, I got it through Brad ( think I said that already) and we had discussed the heat issue, I insulated the two sides open to the turbo, I also don't have the turbo heat shield in place, never bothered putting it back after last turbo play. For a couple of months I randomly checked the temps at the battery itself after harder drives and 50c was about it, battery still going strong.
I reckon the insulation would probably make a huge difference. I didn’t insulate my agm and cooked it.
I know some agm’s are better than others for under bonnet use, eg optima.
What agm battery do you have under the bonnet geeyoutoo
 

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It's a Powerhouse VRLA AGM Deep Cycle. 110ah from memory.
 

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It's a Powerhouse VRLA AGM Deep Cycle. 110ah from memory.
I can’t remember the brand of agm I cooked a few years ago but agm technology must be getting better. Been having a quick read up on the latest agm batteries and there are a lot more brands that can be installed under the bonnet now!
 
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