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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
This thread is linked to the EFR 6758 info but since I was interested in sharing data specific to the mixed flow twin spool turbine in the 7163, and the fact that the other thread is nearing 70 pages, I thought I would start a new one.
The upgrade is nearing completion with just some plumbing to complete.
I used SS for the dump pipe and ended up going for the DTS manifold to get better clearance from the air conditioning pipes on the firewall (mines a GU4 ST-L with rear A/C)
My pump is standard for now. I’ll tweak it as best as I can but will send it off along with the injectors to BDG for a 12mm upgrade probably next year, when I can afford it!
I decided to stick with 3” pipe out of the air box and opted to use 45 degree bends instead of 90’s. The only problem was the A/C pipes from the compressor were in the way so they’re off getting modified as well.
I also tapped several ports in the factory inlet manifold for CRV, aneroid compensator, boost gauge and E boost controller.
Back in about 4 days to fit the water and oil lines and then some tweaking and testing.
Dyno tuning will be done after the pump is upgraded.
Thanks gqshane for your comprehensive posts on the 6758 and oldmav for your invaluable input.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should have added that, because the T3/T4 flange adaptor I got was reasonably low profile, I didn’t need to get the super short waste gate actuator bracket. Just as well, there was a 6 week waiting list from most suppliers in the US.
 

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Looks good Bob!!

Be Interesting to see how it performs
My 6758 took my N/A TD42 from 49KW to 97KW with only 1 full turn on the 10mm pump fuel screw
And the fuel pump was very sad.
Yours being an 11mm Pump should see some nice results

Cheers
Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I hope so Phil. As I mentioned in the other thread, I’m not chasing crazy numbers, just more torque and driveability/response/economy.
Inlet plenum and bigger inter cooler are also options down the track but I’ll see what I get with the big ticket upgrades first.
Cheers,
Bob
 

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The 7163 is really going to need to breathe - are you planning on some airbox /intake mods?
You'll probably need at least 4" right to the turbo inlet !
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I fitted a billet air box lid and cobra head into 3” piping since that’s the outlet size of the cobra head and I’m hoping the 45 bends will go someway towards offsetting the diameter.
Should be fine. Easy fix if it isn’t.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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If you are on a STD airbox ZD style even with a flashy element it wont be enough with a 12mm IP. Actually if that twin scroll does what is expected in early spool it wont be enough either. You will be limiting spool shaft speeds in early spool which means air volume and thats early torque. Just my OCD knowing how horrible those air boxes are at air accelerations.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes Pete, I’m prepared to upgrade the air box but I wanted to see what I got out of it using the cobra head and straightening the flow a bit. All in the spirit of experimentation.
At least I’ll have rerouted the A/C pipes so if I decide to change air box I can do that relatively easily.
I’m not an engineer but as a pilot with an appreciation of airflow, I’m convinced that replacing 90 degree bends with 45 degree bends will have a significant benefit. Almost all the examples I’ve seen, no matter how flashy, had at least 2 x 90 degree bends in the air supply to the turbo. Has anyone quantifiably tested the difference with straighter airflow?
Also, my early research on the cobra head and modified air box lid showed a 40% decrease in flow restriction. If that’s accurate, I would be surprised if I didn’t have enough air to show a marked improvement. Ive also straightened and increased the size of the inter cooler pipe but I realise that’s not the real issue here.
Anyway, man’s gotta have a hobby right?
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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The Air box flows fine it just takes a long time of restriction before it gets to the required flow in that time is when you have very high air speeds. The 4 inch pipe as you will know has a lot more volume through the tight radius 90 silicone bend, which reduces those accelerations and restrictions helping those important spool and acceleration air speeds. But the air box is the main issue here not so much the piping. But good try regardless. And just so you know the cobra head did nothing to any of these issues on the flow bench, as said many times its not so much the piping More about element to airbox volume and clearances.. 30mm Clearance all around the element is the minimum so you dont compromise your turbo's spool speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Pete,
If that’s the way I need to go, is there a particular air box I should be looking at?
Panel filter or round?
Cheers,
Bob
 

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united fuel injection
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Pete,

I assume you’ve seen this write up on the billet lid and cobra head.

Is 40% improvement not accurate?


The flow of the lid may indeed be greatly improved but there is still fundamental issues getting air flow around and through the filter area !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Just stating a 40% improvement doesn't really tell you any story. It might be at full speed max flow or whatever point they chose to claim it but how does it actually flow in the real world through all the transitions through boost etc. also how they tested it and what with can easily have a bearing on how the numbers were achieved but not necessarily reflect how it works in the real world. It also doesn't really address anything to do with how it filters whilst doing it.

Anyone can usually make a max number work in some way to make a claim, doesn't mean it's right.

He mentions using a Donaldson filter for example but no mention of how he has addressed Donaldson's own recommendations that you need a minimum of 30mm ALL ROUND the airbox for best filtration and flow. Something we know the GU airbox doesn't have.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep, thanks fellas. I’m starting to get the picture.
Looks like more tig welding practice for me.
Any suggestions on Airbox and filter combinations?

Bob

P.s. TD42 billet Airbox lid and cobra head for sale. Excellent condition. 40% improvement over factory lid. Get in quick.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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Bob As others have said its not so much the lid sure it probably does a better job than the STD lid but that bit is not the real issue. It's more about the air box design itself and the element. Even with a smaller element it still doesn't allow enough flow with less than ,5 inch of mercury during spool especially when you start seeing 550 Nm torque at 2000 to 2200 rpm.

To be honest i really want you to get as best possible spool results straight up even with your 11mm ip you are still going to be compromising your spool accelerations with your improved airbox.

My bias has always been K&N panel airbox. Something like the radius fab panel box works fine without getting the mercury too high during a fast spool. Whatever you chose make sure the lid and bottom sections have 30mm minimum clearance every where around the panel. There are a couple of production examples out there than have zero clearance on one side of the panel this is just not good by reducing some 15 to 20 % of the element redundant.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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As said Bob i am very VERY bias panel element for many reasons that being they work better with less resistance for the same flow values when in a box.
 

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i built an ugly as sin box for my truck and it seems to work great but im not happy with the sealing flange. going to eventually buy a flange from radius fab and make another one.
it uses a gen3 commonwhore k&n filter. seems to work quite well. noticed way better drive when i built this swapping the engine from my gq shortie with zd airbox to gu with custom box. apart from also slightly bigger cooler piping nothing else was any different.
 
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