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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I’m about to block my egr on 2011 crd and notice these metal plates in there. Is this the gasket or has this been already blocked by po? Don’t want to bust any knuckle skin if I don’t have to.
Cheers
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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That is a gasket. To block EGR, install a solid plate where EGR assy mates with inlet manifold and best to block at exhaust manifold as well in case EGR pipe that runs along fire wall manages to split(isolates complete assy).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is a gasket. To block EGR, install a solid plate where EGR assy mates with inlet manifold and best to block at exhaust manifold as well in case EGR pipe that runs along fire wall manages to split(isolates complete assy).
Cheers for that. Could you please tell me what the plate looks like to fit at the end of the EGR cooler where mounts into the front of the engine? I'm now looking to block where the EGR goes into the engine first as it looks easier and if i have codes thrown up just as easy to remove as well.
There are a few to choose from not sure which one to get. The one I have which came with my Tillix kit looks like it mounts at the start of the EGR cooler as in the pic. Its a diamond shape with slots to allow to slide in. Then theres the round looking one and the other one with 3 holes I'm getting a bit confused.

Thankyou
 

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Use the plate (2 slotted holes) supplied with Tillix kit.

The 3 hole plate is for fitting at exhaust manifold end, turbo heat shield needs to come off and good to do when changing exhaust sys(dump pipe). Heaps about just did a google search and first one that came up to give idea:
Fit For Nissan Navara Patrol ZD30 EGR Blanking Plate

Heaps of info on forum.

Get a scan tool if U have not already.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for that. Yes there is plenty of info sometimes too much! I have a scan tool so I'll me ready for whatever comes my way.
 

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I'll second @Bidja that you should get the plate from the tillix kit. Reason is, you'll get so much value from the rest of that kit too by having control over your boost. Personally I recommend the extra coin for the MAP sensor adaptor if you're going to fit a boost gauge too. Lindsay from Tillix is great to deal with and a real asset to the world of Patrols

Also if it was already blocked, you'd likely be getting an engine light anyway, which your scangauge would reveal as P0401 (if I remember right).
Once you do block it, don't freak out when you get that engine light regularly (if it's that code). It's just a warning that there's "insufficient EGR flow". Clear it on your scangauge and enjoy your drive. Happens a lot on cold mornings I've noticed. If you get a remap down the track, they can permanently disable that particular error code.
Actually on that note, a good tuner for your remap will probably tell you to have a tillix kit (or similar) installed first anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So after a few nights of letting WD40 sink in a bit finally got the bolts cracked open and installed the plate. Engine seems to be a lot smoother and feels more responsive and maybe even a little more economical. Boost seems to be a little more at cruising speed too. I did encounter the MIL second time I started the engine and confirmed it was the EGR flow error. Reset all good. +1 @jackbyo for Lindsay at Tillix. He's been great and answered a few questions I asked about the kit. I will probably end up getting a boost piggy back adapter for an Arduino project I'm working on which measures Boost, Primary and Secondary battery voltage on a .97inch oled. This will fit in the square blank on the right hand side of the Centre console. Ill be posting in the electrical section soon - might interest someone.
Thanks all for advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HI all
So its been a month and all goes well. Ive had the engine light on a few times easily reset. Went down to Melbourne yesterday to pickup a camper following the social distancing rules of course. ON the way back along the freeway the poor old patrol could not go up the slightest hill without slowing down. Would not pick up at all. Pulled up had a look nothing silly like handbrake on the trailer things like that. At this stage no engine light - did not stop engine. Still same result pulling out of Wallen would not pick up at all seriously frustrating. Go tot the next truck stop and shut it off. Turned back on and engine light is on now. SO driving this time much more responsive and easily up to 110 cruizing up hills no dramas then again lost power after it kicked back a gear going up a longer hill. Pulled into the next servo at tallarook there and this time reset the code. NO dramas all the way home.
I guess this means the egr flow error does induce the limp mode? Probably remove the plate if this is the case going to be an ongoing issue.

Anyone else had this?
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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Light does not necessarily come on with limp. Do you run manual boost control?
 

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Limp, hauling under load with tow. Need to back off Tillix try 15.5 psi and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok ill give it a go and report back when i can actually go out the bush camping... might be in 6 months.
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Bidja i just remembered I have the needle fully closed. I might open that a wee bit see if it helps at the current setting. cheers
 

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@Bidja i just remembered I have the needle fully closed. I might open that a wee bit see if it helps at the current setting. cheers
It will, fully closed means you have max spoolup and as is well documented in the archives reaching certain MAFv by certain revs will cause limp, so opening needle valve slows spoolup and may may get you just under those voltages at the specific revs.
 

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@gavcan01 Can open needle and would most likely sort it. I would just open Tillix approx 1/10th turn see how goes (incremental approach).

Sure that U have read of many with CRDs with ECU (stock or remap), running at max spool (needle closed or not installed at all). I ran at max spool for 18 months, up until 3 months ago. Used a needle valve or throttle control unit, to provide opportunity to run less aggressive spool for some off road use or hwy eco runs..

IMO _ to set max boost for CRD, with full manual boost control / stock ECU, would set max boost with adjustment only to boost controller (Tillix/Dawes) with needle fully closed.
eg: manual G/B_ 3rd gear hauling (nom 80% eng load) up incline @ 3000rpm) - adjust to obtain a max boost level to avoid limp.. Auto different but gives U the idea.
 

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Why the change?
Have no complaints running with Tillix(@ max spool) with CRD /ECU remap / ProCharge high flow turbo.
Been trialing various options and still evaluating: Good reports around of CRD with remap, running VNT Vac Sol in conjunction with boost controller limiting max boost. My setup will boost 30+ psi so prefer to run 25psi max (Tillix set point).

Currently running an arrangement that @Phdv61 has posted that consists of using a boost controller + 2 needle valves. Having some early boost issues but provides well for toque low down and consequently provides for good driveability. Also comparing an arrangement (similar) in conjunction with VNT Vac Sol. Held off a bit now due to non-essential travel restrictions in place.
Have a read if not already:

One Dawes and Two needles : better VNT Control for 3.0L
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@Bidja thanks. Been a while since I’ve been checking out the forum and yes I did open the needle a tad after the fact. Haven’t really had the chance to tow the camper around yet so I will be monitoring and letting you know how it goes. Haven’t seen the engine light on once after opening the needle which has been the egr low flow code previously. Coincidental probably.
 

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engine light or malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination can be caused by limp (over boost) _ of which you have overcome by opening needle valve small amount (need to haul/tow to be confident of fix), or reduce max boost by opening Tillix small amount(with needle closed).

Re: EGR fault (P0401) ECU can learn of change and / or can rectified with ECU remap (turn EGR operation off) or do resistor mod:

CRD boost controller removal and disable swirl valve mod
 
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