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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I am designing a electrical relay/fuse box for my GU patrol for all the aftermarket accessories I have attached, and I would like to prewire the switches and relays for my future upgrades.
I am trying to work out what size fuses I will need to install for each accessory.

These switches will be mounted in my overhead console:

12vdc switch power (for accessory power override)
Air Compressor (ARB twin motor compressor)
Driving Lights (Lightforce240 XGT HID 35W)
Engel CF60 Fridge
Front E-Locker
Rear E-Locker
Left side LED Bar(8" Roosystem Bar)
Right side LED Bar(8" Roosystem Bar)
2x Reversing LED Bars(40watts each, 4wdsupacentre brand)
Forward facing LED Bar(22" Roosystem Bar)
Winch Light(20watt LED bar)
Rear Drawer Power (To stop switches from accidently turning on in the back)

These switches will be mounted on the Drawers:

Camping Light for the rear door table(Unsure what product yet)
600w Inverter(4wdsupacentre brand)
Inline Water pump for drawers(unsure what product yet)

Does this make sense?
 

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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
12vdc switch power: Draw 5 amp, Fuse 8 amp
Air Compressor: Draw 56 amp, Fuse 80 amp
Driving Lights: Draw 6amp, Fuse 10 amp
Engel CF60 Fridge: Draw 5 amp, Fuse 8 amp
Front E-Locker: Draw 8 amp, Fuse 10 amp
Rear E-Locker: Draw 8 amp, Fuse 10 amp
Left side LED Bar: Draw 2 amp, Fuse 5 amp
Right side LED Bar: Draw 2 amp, Fuse 5 amp
2x Reversing LED Bars: Draw 6 amp, Fuse 10 amp
Forward facing LED Bar: Draw 10 amp, Fuse 15 amp
Winch Light: Draw 2 amp, Fuse 5 amp
Rear Drawer Power: Draw 90 amp, Fuse 100 amp

Camping Light for the rear door table: Draw 2 amp, Fuse 5 amp
600w Inverter: Draw 50 amp, Fuse 80 amp
Inline Water pump for drawers: Draw 2 amp, Fuse 5 amp
 

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All depends on what wires you use mate. The fuse is for the wire not the accessory. Of course you can oversize the wire and downsize the fuse. But for convenience I would personably use a wire capable of 10 amp and run most o your accessory with 10amp fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have been reading and researching what each thing draws for months now. I am unsure of the fridge, Engel claims only 5 amps maximum draw.

I intend to use 3 runs of 7 core trailer wire to the overhead console as the signal wire for the relays from the switches, and 1 run of 5mm twin core to power the switches, and a GME TX4500S.

I am trying to work out what size aluminium box I need to make and how to mount it in the engine bay behind the 2nd battery. Also, I will need to move my CTEK 250s somewhere else as its currently sitting on the firewall.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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I made an ally box for my relays and fuses. It's also behind the second battery at left rear corner, but it's a GQ though. I bolted the front to the batt tray, and the rear I made a bracket to bolt to the firewall and also through the inner guard.

As for size... Work out how many relays you actually need. Stuff that only draws a couple of amps or so doesn't really need one, so that may cut the numbers down a bit.

I used plug in relay blocks, to make it far easier to replace relay if a fault is suspected. Always solder the terminals after crimping with correct uninsulated crimp tool for those blocks.

I put relays around the edge, fuse blocks at the bottom on one end and circuit breakers at the other end.

You may need to relocate some vacuum canisters to fit in a GU?

Size to suit your relays is minimum for the box, what fits where you want it to go is the maximum, just cross your fingers that those two dimensions are compatible ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was your patrols electrical system I am trying to duplicate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have already bought all the relays, relay blocks, and the fuse blocks for my setup, I just need to get a Bus Bar, fuses, and manufacture a box to put it all in. I am keen to put it where the Vacuum Tanks are, but I am not sure if I can move those, they really are in the way.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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18,552 Posts
Mate they definately can be moved, just be really careful that the one way valves remain in the correct direction, or the brakes won't work too well! You may be able to make a bracket to put them just inboard of the elec box, if need be use a thin ally shield if it's too close to turbo or exhaust, I'm not sure what engine you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a TD42T. I have ordered a Cross Country intercooler, which should be here next week or the week after, but once it is installed, I will know hoe much room I have to play with. I did read a thread where a guy made his own vacuum cylinder, and mounted it on the firewall in the middle behind the intercooler, I might have a look into that.
 

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Here's mine. Hope it gives you some ideas:



I can't weld steel, let alone aluminium. So the glove box seemed like a better option.
There is another 8-fuse block opposite the one in the picture now. It'll be installed and wired in very shortly.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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18,552 Posts
Looks good Rhys.

Glove box... Not a bad idea at all. Not like you can fit much in there anyway so good place for the electrickery. If I had my time again I'd consider that instead of where mine is, then I could move the battery back and make a decent sized air cleaner, but I'm not changing it now. Mine took a little while ;-)
 

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Here's mine. Hope it gives you some ideas:



I can't weld steel, let alone aluminium. So the glove box seemed like a better option.
There is another 8-fuse block opposite the one in the picture now. It'll be installed and wired in very shortly.

Who did you pay Rhys? not only tidy but looks finished:p

Starting to think I might have to do the same Rhys.
Sadly didn't realise how many things needed relays, not just wires fuses and a on off switch.
So Rhys perfect yours then you can help me with mine :D haha
Boyd you're confused Rhys and perfect :nono::nono::nono::rofl:
 
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