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2016 CRD wagon
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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help and advice regarding my Peerless electric compressor motor.

A couple of years ago it began to get hard to start, so while I had a pump guy here I asked if he could look at it. He replaced one of the large capacitors in the box on top and all was working well.

About six month ago it just stopped working all together. I took the lid off the top today (yes I'm aware capacitors store energy and can be dangerous) and found this
20210104_142823.jpg


Now from my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong, one of the capacitors are used constantly while motor us working and one is used in conjunction at startup? I assume the white one is the constant one?

Assuming the white one is the main one? It currently is deformed. The black one looks ok.

Pretty sure the pump bloke put the white one in and from memory may not be an exact replica of the one it replaced, but he did it to help me out so please dont give him a hard time.

Question is, how do I find a replacement? And should it be the same spec as the black one? Or not?
20210104_142908.jpg
20210104_142938.jpg


Compressors are bloody handy in the shed when they are working!

Any help greatly appreciated

Cheers
Trev
 

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Nissan MK,GQ & now GU.
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I need some help and advice regarding my Peerless electric compressor motor.

A couple of years ago it began to get hard to start, so while I had a pump guy here I asked if he could look at it. He replaced one of the large capacitors in the box on top and all was working well.

About six month ago it just stopped working all together. I took the lid off the top today (yes I'm aware capacitors store energy and can be dangerous) and found this
View attachment 527274

Now from my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong, one of the capacitors are used constantly while motor us working and one is used in conjunction at startup? I assume the white one is the constant one?

Assuming the white one is the main one? It currently is deformed. The black one looks ok.

Pretty sure the pump bloke put the white one in and from memory may not be an exact replica of the one it replaced, but he did it to help me out so please dont give him a hard time.

Question is, how do I find a replacement? And should it be the same spec as the black one? Or not?
View attachment 527275 View attachment 527276

Compressors are bloody handy in the shed when they are working!

Any help greatly appreciated

Cheers
Trev
Yes the white one it is the run capacitor. 20 micro farad. Have your preferred licensed repair agent replace with the same size. Any electric motor rewinder / repair or pump shop will (should) have in stock.

Looking at your motor nameplate shows it is the correct size.
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes the white one it is the run capacitor. 20 micro farad. Have your preferred licensed repair agent replace with the same size. Any electric motor rewinder / repair or pump shop will (should) have in stock.

Looking at your motor nameplate shows it is the correct size.
Thanks mate.

Will it be discharged? Before I go touching it. My 240v detector pencil says it's safe but I'm a cautious sort of bloke. I like being alive!
 

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Thanks mate.

Will it be discharged? Before I go touching it. My 240v detector pencil says it's safe but I'm a cautious sort of bloke. I like being alive!
They can be shorted out for discharge.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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By law it has to have a bleed resistor if over 0.5 microfarad so should be ok.
That's what Rgren and Yeti's need. 馃槆

Foo
 

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nissan
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Really can they can be shorted out for discharge ?
Yes, but stored charge is not an issue for capacitors used on AC, although most of us still short them out just to be sure. Charge them up with a couple of hundred volts DC and you will get a nice loud crack when you short them out but it does no harm to anything.
 

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If you squeeze the Grey electrolyte back in it will be ok.
There wont be a charge on them. To be sure a screwdiver is ok.
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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Discussion Starter #13
Have you pressed/reset the red overload button?
Yes mate. The first thing I did馃槈

I have replaced the white capacitor that appeared to be not right and it now runs but it doesnt start up as strong as it used to.

Does this mean I need to replace the black one aswell?

Or is there likely something else gone astray (damaged) inside the motor?
 

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Maybe when the white one died the black one tried to do the job all by itself and perhaps got weakened before the overload popped.. Don't know
Is there a fault in motor that is killing the capacitors - NO not necessarily so
Iv'e replaced one or the other in motors and they seem to go OK afterwards
sometimes the other one will go eventually as yours did
I've seen a lot of dead caps, so maybe the ones in the motors from new are cheepies
If the black one is not too pricey get it too and keep old one for spare
not much help I am afraid rod
 

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It might be a good idea to replace the run cap as well, good job you replaced the start cap as when one lets go it goes off like a shotgun blast. The bulge in the case was a dead give away it was on it's way out. Discharge, as said in a previous post is left to a series of resistors designed for that purpose so leaving it switched off and disconnected from power for a 1/2 hour will do that. Replace with the same cap. I have scored 2 cheap clothes dryers in the past after the starter caps failed, $20 for a new cap and they worked fine.
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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Discussion Starter #16
The 20 micro farad I replaced was 32 bucks from Haymans.
Do you get special pricing or was I taken for a ride?
 

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The 20 micro farad I replaced was 32 bucks from Haymans.
Do you get special pricing or was I taken for a ride?
You got taken for a ride. Haymans are suppliers not repairers.

You can measure the uf. It should be generally within plus or minus %5. Out of this range replace.

Drop the belt off and see how it starts. And see how your motor bearings are?
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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Discussion Starter #19
Not ripped off I bought 1 last month and it cost 29.50 on my Haymans account
They used to look after me really well once but i changed jobs about 7 years ago and my account has become inactive. The front desk guy doesn't seem to have any control over pricing any more either so now i pay the same as everyone else ;)
 
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By law it has to have a bleed resistor if over 0.5 microfarad so should be ok.
Complete Bullshart. Have never found a bleed resistor in a motor or a metal halide or flouro fitting or a switchmode supply. Have been bitten a few times, no big deal.
 
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