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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Patrol guru's. I have not long (3 days) taken delivery of a 2002 GU II auto ZD30 ST Patrol. It has 180K on the clock and appears to have been a one owner prior to my buying it.

Today (at 0500) while driving my wife to work the engine died without any warning. I was able to restart it after about 5 minutes but it died again after a short while. Same routine, wait a while, restart and die again. The time between starting and cutting out depends on rest time before starting. Called NRMA but he couldn't figure it out. Vehicle has been towed to NISSAN dealer for attention tomorrow (Monday). Is this likely to be an electrical or fuel problem. I am leaning towards electrical as the only different action I did this morning was to turn on the engine heat switch at first start. Prior to this it has been operating normally. I completely filled the main and sub tanks Friday.
 

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Have you doubled check what fuel you put in it. NATS system did you take notice of the flashing LED on the dash. Any check light come on.

I went to garage last year and asked for Diesel and the trainee gave me two full tanks of unleaded. I only noticed when I came round to using my fuel card to pay and it refused to accept UNLEADED Fuel under my number plate. I had to drain it on the side of the garage. They refilled it for free with Diesel. I felt sorry for the guy, we all make mistakes but it cost us a little bit of time and I had a plane to catch. I should of had a diesel sticker on the fuel cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It was filled with diesel, I am paranoid about it after I put 2 litres of unleaded in my Pathfinder and my wife put 70 litres of unleaded in our Courier diesel. There was no warning whatsoever. The engine just cut as if the key had been turned off. Then all warning lights came on as advertised. No surge or hesitation like I would expect from a fuel problem (water or air)
 

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Go Hard or Go Home
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Do you have a turbo timer fitted?

I had this issue in the past where the turbo timer would stop the motor, all the lights lit up as you have described.

I reset the ARB turbo timer (pressed the stop button) & turned the ignition key off, then restarted the motor & the problem has never re appeared.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No timer fitted that I am aware of. I'm basing this on the fact that when the key is turned off the engine shuts down straight away. What is NADS?
 

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What is NADS?

NADS are some things that we do to the 3ltr to help it not detonate. The ZD Gurus like Chaz, Whitie & the likes of Aksniss have just about nailed the problems down to a point that when these modifications are made or installed, you have a lot better piece of mind with the reliability, and drivability of the motor vehicle.

Generally, we have some installed gauges & do some minor modification to the turbo control & the EGR system.

Starting with.
EGT/ Exhaust Gas temp gauge installed into the dump pipe of the turbo to monitor exhaust temps as the std Nissan water temp gauge is useless as it only moves when the water temp reaches ~107-110 degC..

Boost gauge, to see if the turbo is overboosting.

Oil catch can, to stop the oil blowby or crankcase ventilation contaminating the MAF (aifr flow metre) as well as the Intercooler thus reducing its efficency.

Dawes & Needle valve to remove the control of the boost from the ECU and allow for a linear boost curve compared to what the ECU allows.

Then there is blocking of the EGR to stop all the exhaust soot going into the intake system and collecting with the blow by oil thus reducing the performance of the 3ltr motor.

I also have a product called ECUtalk which was made by a fellow forum member (Newkleer/Peter) which allows us to monitor, MAF voltages (Very Important), Actual water temp in degC, volts as well as many other things including alarm levels to be set for a variety of things.

Anyway, have a read of the reference doc by Aksniss.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/niss...ference-document-zd30-owners-look-here-31418/

And the ECUtalk product.
ECUTalk - News

Also, it is highly recommended that you pay attention to Chaz & whitie when they are on. Very switched on guys in my opinion!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Helms'y. I have in my plan to fit boost and EGT gauge and do the EGR blank and catch can mods. My truck has 180k on it and as far as I have been able to determine, doesn't have any engine reliability mods. I had planned to spend last sunday crawling all over it but............

According to the Motor Vehicles Act a dealer is not compelled to provide a warranty on any failure etc on vehicles with over 160K on the clock. the mileage is genuine as the original owners log book is filled out to the day it was sold, 3 months prior to my purchase.
 

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I thought they have a 3 month good will warranty that they need to adhere to?

Has it happened since mate?

Tried disconnecting the battery overnight?

Could be the NATS that Oilrig suggested, key not corresponding at times with the NATS detection/system.....though uncertain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The car was towed to the local Nissan shop. They rang me today saying the analyser revealed no ECU fault codes and say they have traced it to the fuel prime pump(?). Of course nil stock and won't have one until Thursday. Not knowing a whole lot about how the prime and filter works I can't say whether I believe them or not. I have bought a cd workshop manual off evil bay but it won't be here for 4 - 9 days. If the prime pump is faulty will that let air into the system and cause the engine ro shutdown?
 

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If the prime pump is faulty will that let air into the system and cause the engine ro shutdown?
Yes sort of, there has been issues where the primer allows air into the fuel system & makes it hard for the vehicle to start.

Before having them change the fuel primer pump, get them to check the o-ring that seats under the primer.

Post 26 from below will explain what I am talking about.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gu-gr-10/flat-spot-22040/

Cheaper to first look at this than buying a new primer pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well $600 bucks later and a new primer pump I have my truck back on the road. No problems so far touch wood. Mechanic said if I have the problem again the injector pump will/might need replacing (ouch).
 

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Good news mate, but did you look at the other thread that I suggested and investigate what I suggested?

9 out of 10 times its the little o-ring that goes missing. Bucket loads cheaper than a new primer pump!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, guess what. After making it home without a problem, the b....y thing won't start. After each start attempt the prime pump takes three or four pumps to hard but no start or if it does it cuts out as before. What is in the fuel system between the tank and prime pump/filter? Is there a pump on the tank, in line filter etc? It's difficult to do my own troubleshooting without a service manual, which I have coming. I'm reluctant to give it back to Nissan because they advised if the problem continues it is probably in need of an injector pump replacement/rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For anyone still following - after a week and a half in the Nissan shop, they found the ECU relay was subject to a field alert that it may cause intermittent faults similar to my symptoms and should be replaced at next opportunity. So far the problem has not resurfaced.
 

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Hay dude i had the same thing happen to my 2001 gu it ran for 40 sec and shut down took it to the dealer and they said the fuel pump was the problem. they want to sting me $6500 to fix it so i picked the car up and found a pump myself and got a mate to fit it only cost me $2000 instead.
 

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For anyone still following - after a week and a half in the Nissan shop, they found the ECU relay was subject to a field alert that it may cause intermittent faults similar to my symptoms and should be replaced at next opportunity. So far the problem has not resurfaced.
Wish i had of read this post earlier! Had this problem a few times and it was that relay. It is located above the fuse box under the dash. You can just feel it when you remove the fuse box cover so it is easier to remove that whole dash cover below the steering colum. The relay you are looking for is highest relay (the top relay furtherest from the fuse box if that makes any sence). When driving along and the vehicle cuts out again, tap this relay with something or riggle it. Then you will know its stuffed! hope it is as easy as this!! The relay is $120 from nissan though!
 

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This all sounds like the old Nissan do the guessing what the problem is and you keep paying the bill till they eventually find it.
This really infuriates me as nearly all mechanical shops do it.
Rant over
 

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Wish i had of read this post earlier! Had this problem a few times and it was that relay. It is located above the fuse box under the dash. You can just feel it when you remove the fuse box cover so it is easier to remove that whole dash cover below the steering colum. The relay you are looking for is highest relay (the top relay furtherest from the fuse box if that makes any sence). When driving along and the vehicle cuts out again, tap this relay with something or riggle it. Then you will know its stuffed! hope it is as easy as this!! The relay is $120 from nissan though!
What would cause the fuse to blow in the first place.. I literally just tried your suggestion.. and am back on the road..
 
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