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The nutty professor
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Discussion Starter #1
after about 5 years of my passenger side engine mount being broken i finaly decided to fix it , but i didnt want to spend the cash on another engine mount only to have it break again , which seems a lot of people seem to do, i remembered someone on here drilled a hole through the middle of one and stuck a bolt through it so i figured i will give that a try
so i removed the engine mount and motor braket all in one , i found that the thread on top and the pin on the bottom of the rubber part are just studs pressed in , so i just pressed the old ones out , which is easy as my engine mount is already broken, ie : the top plate had seperated from the rubber , to get the bottom stud out i had to drill a hole through the rubber which i had to do anyway, i then got a long bolt just a tad smaller than the hole and fitted it in from the bottom with the thread up top, the problem i had was the head of the bolt wouldnt fit into the hole in the chassie , so i ground the head of the bolt so it will fit into the triangular hole in the chassie , (if i could have gotten a drill in to the chassie mount drilling it out would have been better), i then added a shocky rubber on top then a washer then the nut ,
i then loosely assembled the engine mount so the bolt still had plenty of play up and down, fitted it all back in , bolted it up, tightend the bolt through the middle to put tension on the rubber and now i have an unbreakable engine mount

as mine is probly the original engine mount it was a bit squashed , so i added a strip of rubber to the original rubber so there wasnt any metal on metal anywhere





 

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Needs a locking washer.......

Oh & fix your oil leak at the turbo hose......... :)
 

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The nutty professor
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Discussion Starter #4
Needs a locking washer.......

Oh & fix your oil leak at the turbo hose......... :)
i have put another nut on to lock them , and i had to take the oil feed for the turbo off to make it easier so thats just the drips from removal
 

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I replaced my mounts as the left one was broken but I still get a thump on certain large bumps at speed on left hand corners. I am assuming my transmission mounts are soft as well but they wont be replaced until they break.

I suspect my body mounts are not the best either & I need to weld the mount on the left fron seat that I found loose the other day.

Poor old girl is falling apart......
 

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Bad idea, good for a bush fix but if one bolt was enough why are there 4 bolts on either side of the engine mount? I wouldnt call that unbreakable.
It would have been less effort to simply replace the engine mount with a new one.
If you keep breaking it make a mount using a leaf spring bush and some tube.

I'm wondering why I'm not breaking engine mounts on the comp car. the drive train thrashes about violently in that.
 

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The nutty professor
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Bad idea, good for a bush fix but if one bolt was enough why are there 4 bolts on either side of the engine mount? I wouldnt call that unbreakable.
It would have been less effort to simply replace the engine mount with a new one.
If you keep breaking it make a mount using a leaf spring bush and some tube.

I'm wondering why I'm not breaking engine mounts on the comp car. the drive train thrashes about violently in that.

i dissagree , i recon that 1 bolt is way stronger than the rubber mount , what would the breaking strain of a piece of rubber 4 x 2 inches , and the breaking strain of a large bolt , im pretty sure the bolt would win every time , plus the mount is designed from factory to keep the motor in place even if the rubber breaks , the design limits the amount of movement that the engine can move, so taking this into account with the rubber shockie bush on top, i will never get any where near the breaking strain of the bolt as the shockie rubber will compress and the engine mount movement limiters will hit well before enough force is put onto the bolt to break it

plus , the bolt i put in is bigger and stronger than the bolt removed which holds it to the engine bracket, so i cant see how it would be weaker

oh and i just realised why there is 4 bolts at the bottom of the engine mount , its for the engine movement limiter, it has nothing to do with the rubber mount, that big thick plate in the pic is ultimately what stops your motor from moving around too much, if you have a look at your engine bracket from under the car , you will see the hook shape part that goes around that thick plate , you can then relise that the rubber engine mount is just a dampner to absorb the vibrations , not to hold the motor in the car, that job is for the thick plate and hook on the engine bracket

all i have done is take away the lifting or pulling apart force that is normally applied to the rubber mount when accelerating or driveing up steep hills and turned it into a squashing force on the shockie rubber, there is no more force on the bolt than the original bolt that it replaced on top of the rubber block
 

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i think the vibrations will drive you mad
Yup, the left engine mount broke on my MK & was $280 from Nissan, could not get one aftermarket that was the same so i jury rigged one from a rubberised machinery mount.

It was a similar dimension, but the compound must have been so much harder as the vibration transfer sucked.
 

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The nutty professor
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8,299 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yup, the left engine mount broke on my MK & was $280 from Nissan, could not get one aftermarket that was the same so i jury rigged one from a rubberised machinery mount.

It was a similar dimension, but the compound must have been so much harder as the vibration transfer sucked.

when i was figuring out how to fix mine that was one thing i didnt want ,vibrations, and what i came up with seems to work well so far , nice and smooth under acceleration an deceleration, much better than it has ever been
 

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nissan
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I read alot about building buggies and such, they tend to solid mount the engine but they always say 'if you solid mount your engine, you must solid mount gearbox as well' must help with it vibrating ???
 

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nissan
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I read alot about building buggies and such, they tend to solid mount the engine but they always say 'if you solid mount your engine, you must solid mount gearbox as well' must help with it vibrating ???
I'd wager it's to stop the bit of flex available at the tranny end from trashing the solid mounts at the engine.
 

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I read alot about building buggies and such, they tend to solid mount the engine but they always say 'if you solid mount your engine, you must solid mount gearbox as well' must help with it vibrating ???


Solid mounting your engine in race cars is about reliability and saving weight. They dont care about the niceties of being in the thing, its about not having the engine fall out while its having the living crap thrashed out of it....
 

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nissan
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I solid mounted mine about 3 months ago .... I was expecting it to be really ruff but it's not as bad as you would expect .... Made a huge difference to the feel of my clutch pedal tho .... I love it now n wouldn't have it any other way
 

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Nissan Armada
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It takes 1 1/2" to completely remove the pattern and dowels. No the starter is parallel to the crank but not dependant on the bellhousing for placement. I don't have a ford flywheel so I don't know if they're different sizes.

I don't know anything about spacing the flywheel off the crank. Hopefully I'll be making around 260hp at the crank. Will a spaced out flywheel withstand that? An original diff location sucked but there's plenty of better solutions to that on the road right now. My chassis is already built although that doesn't keep me from changing it but I'm big enough to not want to take away any more passenger space than necessary.

I guess another solution is to fabricate an adapter plate out of 1/4" steel and mill 1/4" off the bell housing. no welding, no spacers, but I still need measurements.
 
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