Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
nissan patrol
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

The last few days I have been experiencing some issues with my 3.0l CRD. When cold, I am hearing a noise that sounds like a slipping drive belt. It is only doing it when cold, and once the vehicle has been driven for a while, the problem no longer exists. I recall a while back a similar issue which I think (would need to go back through my old service records) that they replaced the idler pulley, which resolved the problem.

Also, the problem started about 12 hours after having a faulty part on the Intercooler replaced by a Nissan dealer under warranty. Not sure if it is related at all, but when I called the dealer and said that I was ‘a noise similar to that of a slipping drive belt’ their response was that it wasn’t related to the work that they performed.

Does anyone know of what potentially could be the source of this noise. I know that diagnosing a problem without actually being able to hear and see it is difficult, but some ideas from people more mechanically minded than myself would be great.

Thanks in advance
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,864 Posts
Hi,

The last few days I have been experiencing some issues with my 3.0l CRD. When cold, I am hearing a noise that sounds like a slipping drive belt. It is only doing it when cold, and once the vehicle has been driven for a while, the problem no longer exists. I recall a while back a similar issue which I think (would need to go back through my old service records) that they replaced the idler pulley, which resolved the problem.

Also, the problem started about 12 hours after having a faulty part on the Intercooler replaced by a Nissan dealer under warranty. Not sure if it is related at all, but when I called the dealer and said that I was ‘a noise similar to that of a slipping drive belt’ their response was that it wasn’t related to the work that they performed.

Does anyone know of what potentially could be the source of this noise. I know that diagnosing a problem without actually being able to hear and see it is difficult, but some ideas from people more mechanically minded than myself would be great.

Thanks in advance
Could be a couple of things, but you are going to have to do some tracking, it could be the belt tensioner, these have a history of this, but it could also be an exhaust manifold leak, these can make a squealing noise and then shut up once warm. Also there are things like small vacuum leak squeals and boost leak squeals but these don't generally shut up when they warm up.

So, you need to pinoint the sound, not all that easy sometimes, but necessary.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
389 Posts
Check that its not a drive belt. Put some chalk on the running surface of the belt and start it. If it stops making the noise then you have a loose belt. Also check that the noise doesnt get louder/worse when you put your head lights on, this would indicate a loose alternator belt.

Jasinex
 

·
LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
Joined
·
12,022 Posts
When my CRD did this it was a cracked EGR pipe (goes from the rear of the exhaust manifold, around the back of the head, and to the EGR valve system itself). Exactly the same symptoms.

If it's not under warranty, you could just block the EGR outlet at the exhaust manifold. Problem solved.

It could be the exhaust manifold itself as Geeyoutoo suggests - they are known to warp on CRDs.
 

·
Registered
nissan patrol
Joined
·
32 Posts
Thanks for your question GUVI, now I can check my 07 as I have the same problem.

Are these easy fixes geeyoutoo?
 

·
Premium Member
nissan patrol
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Its very common for them to have leaking exhaust gaskets.
Ive only ever seen an egr pipe crack once, but have done dozzens of manifold replacements per year.

The problem is the studs stretch and/or snap allowing the manifold to warp. This will continue to happen in the future, how often depends on how much towing you do etc...
The only way to stop it is use better quality studs. The steel studs work on in some cars but Inconnel is far superior..
Downside is the price, $75 for 4 studs and nuts.
Upside, they will never break or stretch again.
 

·
Registered
nissan y61
Joined
·
4,788 Posts
Diesel Tuner, Do think that manifold is warping and this makes the studs stretch and break or is the torque setting wrong for this manifold or even the gaskets are not correct thickness.

How are the studs stretching. I'm thinking that would it not be the heat cycles make them become brittle, then warp and then break away?

Just intrested to know as pass this info on to my friend as he currently rebuilding his DI as it when bang.
 

·
Premium Member
nissan patrol
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Well if the studs are strong enough, the heat wont allow it to warp.

So the cycle is actually, stud stretch that leads to warpage.
Not warpage leading to stud stretch.

It is no doubt the heat and pressure the manifold is putting on the studs that is making them strech though.
 

·
Registered
A45 AMG, Ranger :(
Joined
·
1,163 Posts
Mine's got an anooying squeak now and idle no matter what the temp, belt and tensioner are less then 12 months old grrrr!
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
3 Posts
Mine has just done it since 2 days ago. Its driving me mad. Stripped off belt. checked all pulleys and not them. So now I chasing this "exhaust leak"..... tightened all bolts on turbo and still to no avail. due to rattly engine can not pin point and it driving me nuts! Right before Christmas too....RRRRR
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
61 Posts
Had the exact same issue a few months back...what a nightmare.

I was travelling home from doing the Holland track with the camper on the back and did the last stretch from Merriden home so she was nice and hot.

I live in Brigadoon and to get home there is a whopping great ( and long), hill I have to get up just before my place. I usually give it heaps and have it revving out in 3rd (auto), and it holds nicely at about 80km/h.

This day I ended up with a guy towing a horsefloat going up the hill so the car get stuck in an awkward gear and loaded it up big time. I remember getting out at home and thinking "she smells real hot"

Next day, squeaking noise started. Thought not a lot of it as I'd just done quite a bit of mud and thought the tensioner bearing had gone (again). Drove it like that for a few days but then when I went to investigate, I popped of the belt to make sure it was the bearing and it was still squealing.

Jumped on here and did some reading. My heart sunk when I realised what it more than likely was.

Pull it all down on the exhaust side and found 2 broken studs on cylinder 1. Bought all new gaskets and 8 new studs but had a real ***** of a time getting the studs out as they were broken off a few threads in and had damaged the threads in front of them preventing an easy extraction.

Long story short, ended up putting in 2 helicoils in after a mission getting the stud remnants out.

Manifold was machined (straight edge was like a see-saw on it), and he took nearly 3mm off the middle to get it true. All back together and good as new.

Hoping for your sake it's something simpler :)
 

·
Registered
nissan patrol
Joined
·
76 Posts
With the squeal is it constant or only under boost. Mine make a squeal but only under boost and will only do it when a bit cold.
 

·
Premium Member
nissan patrol
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
It starts out only doing it under boost when cold, but sooner or later the manifold will continue to warp and it will squeal very badly at all times under boost.

It will also start to loose drive pressure to the turbine resulting in a lack of boost response.

It will also put soot all through the engine bay that is a nightmare to clean off.

Just get the job done right, ONCE. dont take short cuts.

Use genuine gaskets. Have the manifold machined properly or have a new one fitted and more importantly.

USE GOOD STUDS!

On the jobs I do I use an inconel stud and nut combo. They arent cheap @ $75 for a set of 4, but they will NEVER strech again causing the same problem.
So for a little outlay up front, you can save yourself big bucks down the track.
 

·
Registered
nissan patrol
Joined
·
2,006 Posts
Hmmmmm, I test drove a 2010 GU7 today and noticed it squeeled a little bit when it was cold. I assumed it was just the belt or tensioner so didnt give it much thought as it stopped once the truck was warm. Assuming the exhaust manifold is leaking, what am I looking at to fix the issue. I am planing on fitting a 3in exhaust, so I could remove the turbo and manifold at the same time. If it was the manifold leaking what would I be looking at to fix it? $150 for new inconel studs
$65 for a new genuine gasket
mainfold machine $??
Possibly helicoil kit $150?

Should I just be avoiding this truck. Everything else on it is mint.
 

·
LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
Joined
·
12,022 Posts
Jake if you're considering CRDs then a warped exhaust manifold is always going to be a potential issue. Add to that list - intercooler cracks where cores meet header tanks, oil weep on block, and the perennial ZD30 favourite, the failed belt tensioner.

The other thing the squealing noise could be is a cracked EGR pipe, which is a bit easier to sort - you just block it at the exhaust manifold.

I'd have a good look at the 2010 and try to determine where the leak is... turbo heat shield makes it hard though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dominator

·
Premium Member
nissan patrol
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Hmmmmm, I test drove a 2010 GU7 today and noticed it squeeled a little bit when it was cold. I assumed it was just the belt or tensioner so didnt give it much thought as it stopped once the truck was warm. Assuming the exhaust manifold is leaking, what am I looking at to fix the issue. I am planing on fitting a 3in exhaust, so I could remove the turbo and manifold at the same time. If it was the manifold leaking what would I be looking at to fix it? $150 for new inconel studs
$65 for a new genuine gasket
mainfold machine $??
Possibly helicoil kit $150?

Should I just be avoiding this truck. Everything else on it is mint.
If you are doing everything yourself then yep that would be about right.

I would personally pay a ThreadTec guy to do the stud removal and/or helicoiling if it needed it.
That normally runs me about $150 when I get him to do vehicles for me.

Factor in the fact that the manifold could actually be cracked, not just warped and that will run you around the $800 for a new one.

Either way, good bargaining material for the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Just a suggestion
we had a simular problem very hard to track down we dropped all the belts off this eliminated all the pulleys and pumps and gave us a smaller area to look in as it turned out it was a dry air cond pulley bearing
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top