[Melson05]

Remember.....

Just because you can't achieve it, doesn't make it impossible.

So if 90 rwkw is too much of a stretch,

Where are you at ??

45rwkw ??

When did I say I could not achieve it?
When did I say it is impossible?

Seems you can type better than you can read.

My current car since me owning it has never been on the dyno.
I have no idea what load it can sustain as it sits but since at least for the most part finishing my intercooler system it's better that it was. I don't really care enough to bother with that as its a working progress I have a fair amount of things to do which will affect its ability to make power and sustain it before I make the 600+ km trip to a set of rollers.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[bambill]

Dude you are a little misguided hey.
You circle a time reading on the screen, yes, that is the time it takes to accelerate from 1300-3300rpm at guess what highway load, in 4th gear, that is one of the joys of making some decent power.
This is not a ramp rate style dyno, (I can run it like that if I wish, but that is not what happens in real life so i do not do that) it is a fixed load, like what happens on the road, I can even add a gradient, and can add a trailer weight is desired.
Who in their right mind thinks that people who access to such equipment doesn't actually use it????

Perhaps the issue here is that my setup works, and it also makes really good power???
But I can assure you that what works for my ute, will not work for all.

My original comment many posts back had the desired affect, few days of entertainment, cheers LOL.

 

[plumma]

Dude you are a little misguided hey.
You circle a time reading on the screen, yes, that is the time it takes to accelerate from 1300-3300rpm at guess what highway load, in 4th gear, that is one of the joys of making some decent power.
This is not a ramp rate style dyno, (I can run it like that if I wish, but that is not what happens in real life so i do not do that) it is a fixed load, like what happens on the road, I can even add a gradient, and can add a trailer weight is desired.
Who in their right mind thinks that people who access to such equipment doesn't actually use it????

Perhaps the issue here is that my setup works, and it also makes really good power???
But I can assure you that what works for my ute, will not work for all.

My original comment many posts back had the desired affect, few days of entertainment, cheers LOL.

Misguided??
Maybe??

I'm just trying to figure out what's going on.

You stroke the engine to increase capacity, then de-stroke to lower compression.

Then ran up on a dyno with compensation factors..

Whizz bang dyno can't just give a number without compensation??

Where is the correct place for the air sensor on a forced induction engine??
#hint#- ( it's not in the snorkel )


Just curious (misguided)

 

[Dark side]

Misguided??
Maybe??

I'm just trying to figure out what's going on.

You stroke the engine to increase capacity, then de-stroke to lower compression.

Then ran up on a dyno with compensation factors..

Whizz bang dyno can't just give a number without compensation??

Where is the correct place for the air sensor on a forced induction engine??
#hint#- ( it's not in the snorkel )


Just curious (misguided)

I have come to notice that if plumma seen bambill walking along and seen him pick up a 20 dollar bill . Plumma would say that’s not a 20 dollar bill it’s a 10 dollar bill .....

 

[bambill]

Oh my.
I stroke the engine to increase capacity, then destroke it to lower compression, what kind of drugs are you on????
I should just stop humoring you here, that comment right there really does show your level of intelligence.
Errrr yes I use corrected figures J1349 in fact, the standard for SAE that is used by most, a lot of Mainline dynos will default to J607, a very old standard which can change the reading a fair bit, some Mainline operators will change it to J1349 however.
The correction at the time of the run was 1.02. Perhaps I should of used raw number hey, get massive variation from day to day, whole heap of data/results that mean bugger all, very handy, not.
No need to place an IAT sensor dude, haven't done that for years since old DD days with manual weather stations etc.

I am out dude, you have no idea hey.
Sorry for taking the thread off track guys, I was looking for entertainment, I definitely found it.

 

[plumma]

Oh my.
I stroke the engine to increase capacity, then destroke it to lower compression, what kind of drugs are you on????
I should just stop humoring you here, that comment right there really does show your level of intelligence.
Errrr yes I use corrected figures J1349 in fact, the standard for SAE that is used by most, a lot of Mainline dynos will default to J607, a very old standard which can change the reading a fair bit, some Mainline operators will change it to J1349 however.
The correction at the time of the run was 1.02. Perhaps I should of used raw number hey, get massive variation from day to day, whole heap of data/results that mean bugger all, very handy, not.
No need to place an IAT sensor dude, haven't done that for years since old DD days with manual weather stations etc.

I am out dude, you have no idea hey.
Sorry for taking the thread off track guys, I was looking for entertainment, I definitely found it.

I apologise dude,
I mistakenly thought you knew what you have done. If you have also blocked the internal bypass without alleviation, I suggest you don't drive it in anger as it'll end up in the naughty corner.

 

[NissTorq]

Is this the main TD cooling thread? I think it is considering the number of pages.

OK sorting through the recent 03 TD42T wagon purchase. Stock except for EGR block, 3", stock turbo running 17 psi, I try not to load it over 12-15, this thing is heavier than my ute but seems bit gutless, engine has no blow by and has been rebuilt 60,000 k's ago, it has after market head not genuine which was all new head 15xxx ago. EGT's run 300-460 max. After market big radiator, new coolant etc. Air filter new, factory snorkel...

I got wagon serviced the other day, my old safari clutch put in so thought I'd get the dude to drop oil as well which I usually do myself.

Temp outside was 36 C, drove home just under 100 k's and the temp ran from 78C to 103 C climbing over a big long hill, I'm going to swap out the thermostat with the best recommendation, can anyone help with that and some reasoning please? I've noticed there is some differing thoughts on this.

I'm trying to address every weak link, I'm about to replace the stock cooler with another one I have which has done less and I'm sure there is a crack in this current cooler.
I want to hear any suggestions of things to look at, water pump is on the list might go for a Patrolapart High Performance one.

Basically I want less heat on the hills, and any small performance gains will be good. Cheers

 

[NissTorq]

In the longer term I plan to change the HT18 to better turbo, and better cooler, obviously there's not much to be gained without doing major things like those.

At this point I'm just going over it for reliability, I also had all the belts changed the other day, and I'm going to put an other 11 mm pump on it which has 100xxx less km's on it maybe that will give it a bit more go. On hills it's a slug

 

[NissTorq]

One thing I suspect will help this heat and sluggish on hills issue is chopping the freaking muffler out, would have had that done the other day but time ran out, not sure whether I go straight or stick a hotdog in, probably go straight through will be half the price

 

[Haggie]

Is this the main TD cooling thread? I think it is considering the number of pages.

OK sorting through the recent 03 TD42T wagon purchase. Stock except for EGR block, 3", stock turbo running 17 psi, I try not to load it over 12-15, this thing is heavier than my ute but seems bit gutless, engine has no blow by and has been rebuilt 60,000 k's ago, it has after market head not genuine which was all new head 15xxx ago. EGT's run 300-460 max. After market big radiator, new coolant etc. Air filter new, factory snorkel...

I got wagon serviced the other day, my old safari clutch put in so thought I'd get the dude to drop oil as well which I usually do myself.

Temp outside was 36 C, drove home just under 100 k's and the temp ran from 78C to 103 C climbing over a big long hill, I'm going to swap out the thermostat with the best recommendation, can anyone help with that and some reasoning please? I've noticed there is some differing thoughts on this.

I'm trying to address every weak link, I'm about to replace the stock cooler with another one I have which has done less and I'm sure there is a crack in this current cooler.
I want to hear any suggestions of things to look at, water pump is on the list might go for a Patrolapart High Performance one.

Basically I want less heat on the hills, and any small performance gains will be good. Cheers

My suggestions - I would limit the ht18 turbo back to a max of 12 psi. Nothing to be gained over this.

Add a lift pump - this might help if your pump is tired.

Also do one change at time then monitor. If you do multiple changes at once it is hard to validate any improvements.

 

[NissTorq]

Good points @Haggie will address these starting with muffler which should help with heat not that it's ran hot or done anything unusual as it's only got hot at top of hill for a short time, and a huge hill on very hot day at that, I just know I can get better out of it, my use stock was stronger than this but not so heavy, mind you the ute heaps less k's. The chasis has 375 on it so the pump may be a big part of the sluggish issue.

I'd like to get a thermostat ready in the meantime and do I go with stock or high flowed one, anyone have any link or part no's, recommendations? Cheers

 

[GQshayne]

If you have a larger than stock radiator then I would address the airflow, as has been mentioned on here repeatedly. If it has a thicker core, or larger tube and fin area, then blocking the gaps will be worthwhile.

 

[NissTorq]

If you have a larger than stock radiator then I would address the airflow, as has been mentioned on here repeatedly. If it has a thicker core, or larger tube and fin area, then blocking the gaps will be worthwhile.

Only since you mentioned it I vaguely recall something I read about it. here's a pic of my rad the spacings don't look wide, so not sure about this one. Huge rad though.

I grabbed a Lukey Performance Megaflow 3"x12" x 5" ( total diameter) muffler today for $100, this when fitted should help a lot and add a nice growl, when replace the 3" traditional muffler in the system, as it is theres hardly any grrowl, and bit too restricted for my liking. Went to 5 shops, the last one had this Lukey so I went with that, looks pretty nice, straight through with dampening in the walls only. Part No. LSX09213 Shoild be much quieter than a single wall hot dog and heaps better over a straight pipe all the way.

 

[GutSquisher Media]

Only since you mentioned it I vaguely recall something I read about it. here's a pic of my rad the spacings don't look wide, so not sure about this one. Huge rad though.

Can see one major problem (unless there are a couple of electric thermo fans hidden be-hide that Rad) no Fan Shroud, I posted a bit a long time back about air flow and cooling.

This was one of the articles I posted The Perfect Fan Shroud Position

 

[NissTorq]

Hadn't thought of that, of course. Do you recommend I mod a factory shroud.
I see the diagram on the page link siad 1" clearances all around the fan is optimum, will suck more air in grill too if can make good vacuum.

I'm basically just going through everything since buying recently, the car hasn't ran too hot or unusual. But It hasn't been loaded up yet or towed either, I want to be good for all that and will put bigger cooler and nice turbo on before then, and know the car is set up optimally set and wont get surprises or failures in the worst conditions and demands. That will be a long process, just all the obvious things to begin with. The fan shroud will be interesting to see if makes hill temps stabilize a bit?.

Was interesting to watch the temp after market gauge v's the factory gauge on that hot day hill climb, AM said 103, factory gauge hardly moved still way under half LOL, but I know they are set that way, and I wonder if thermo was stuck cause the sender for AM gauge is there, could be other reasons, I'm just guessing. I suspect a few other things and wont know till I go through them all experimenting. Replace thermo is definitely high on the list

 

[NissTorq]

Just saw this coincidentally, Al talks about fan shrouds from 8 mins onward

 

[GQshayne]

Only since you mentioned it I vaguely recall something I read about it. here's a pic of my rad the spacings don't look wide, so not sure about this one. Huge rad though.

View attachment 527684

I dunno how much you have read on this subject previous to now. But what you need (yes, need in my opinion) is to sort your airflow. On a 3 core ally radiator I recorded a 10 degree difference by improving the pressure differential.

You do this by forcing the air through the radiator core, rather than going elsewhere. It will take the path of least resistance, so you need to make the radiator that path. In your photo, I can see a big gap between the core and the radiator support panel. When the air hits the rad, some of it will go through this gap instead of the core. This is reducing the air flow through the core. On my GQ, I have sealed the radiator to the support panel on all four sides.

Next job is to look in front of the car. When air hits the grill where will it try and go??? On my car, it was able to simply deflect straight down and go under the car, where once again it was doing no good at all. So I made a fill in panel to go between the grill and bullbar, which sits just under the winch. I have one area left to do, which I overlooked, and that is the sides of the grill. So I will have a look in there to see if it needs blocking, next time I have the bonnet up.

Air will take the easiest path it can. Block the alternate paths, and force it through your radiator. On a flat section of road, on a hot day, at 100kmh, I recorded 10 degrees difference by doing this.

I had a stuffed viscous hub, but rather than replace it straight away when I had the rad and shroud etc changed I deliberately left it to do separately. Pain to do it later, but I wanted to test one change at a time. I noticed on an windy uphill section of road, where the speed had to drop to 60kmh, that the new viscous hub made a difference to engine temp. When speeds were higher it made no difference, as the improved pressure differential was doing its job then. I use a standard genuine hub and standard fan.

 

[NissTorq]

You do this by forcing the air through the radiator core, rather than going elsewhere. It will take the path of least resistance, so you need to make the radiator that path. In your photo, I can see a big gap between the core and the radiator support panel. When the air hits the rad, some of it will go through this gap instead of the core. This is reducing the air flow through the core. On my GQ, I have sealed the radiator to the support panel on all four sides.

Ahh now I get what you meant by "gaps"

I dunno how much you have read on this subject previous to now

Not enough, and poor memory at that. Thanks for the heads up though.

I noticed on an windy uphill section of road, where the speed had to drop to 60kmh, that the new viscous hub made a difference to engine temp. When speeds were higher it made no difference, as the improved pressure differential was doing its job then. I use a standard genuine hub and standard fan.

Interesting. It will need to be checked on mine. So would you recommend the genuine hub in all cases, aren't some members using one off another vehicle, cant recall which.

Yeah I think there will be a huge difference when all these things get sorted. Stupidly, I hadn't even noticed the shroud was missing until @GutSquisher Media pointed it out

 

[xtracabgq]

Do as Shayne says above but you also NEED to make sure you have low pressure behind the radiator to make the air go through the rad to balance the pressure.
As said air takes the path of least resistance, but without a pressure differential all the forcing in the world and the air will still resist going through the rad it will rather go around the car.
If you haven't got the air dam under the front of the car (to drop the pressure in the engine bay) you NEED to install one to create some low pressure, then fill all the gaps and the air will WANT to go through the rad to balance the pressure.

jim

 

[GQshayne]

One way to think of the airflow, is that ideally we would have a big funnel in front of the radiator. When the air goes down the funnel it has nowhere to go apart from out the end, as there is no other openings. So we need to close off as many alternate paths as we can. This increases the pressure in front of the radiator, in relation to that in the engine bay. It is the differential between the two that allows the transfer through the core. And the bigger the core, the more important it is. In standard vehicle set-up many people have found a two core radiator works best. But a two core has its limits with cooling capacity, so if we have higher engine power, and therefore more heat, then we need a three core, but also better airflow to get it to work. Without the increased airflow many people found the three core would run hotter.

As for fans and hubs, my view is that the standard hub does what I need it to do - operate at low vehicle speed when airflow is reduced. Certainly it is working at 60kmh when the vehicle is under load, but not in traffic, as there is not enough load to cause temp increase. At some point after 60kmh then normal airflow takes over. I have no need for the fan to be working at 100kmh. So I do not want a modified hub. I have not finished testing the three core radiator yet, but with the two core, the standard fan cooled it very quickly. Perhaps the three core may benefit from a bigger fan, given also that I have an auto trans cooler putting air at 75 degrees or so into the front of it. The auto cooler added 5 degrees engine temp at cruising speed with the two core radiator, but the three core ally radiator brought it back again. I may or may not have room for a bigger fan anyway, I have not looked at it.