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Iv got one of his pumps sitting in my shed new yet to fit it.
I can take a pic of for you. I can't see balancing as even remotely an issue. Factory small mass slow rotating speed, non issue.
If your worried about balance I'd be much more concerned about what's bolted to the front of it.

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yep I'd agree, when you consider the load. How they flow is the main thing. it's hard to compare based on looks but I trust the bloke ha worked a few things out from talking to him.
I paid $550 with a new housing etc, which is a lot of money but so are other ones like JPC which some say are no better than the stock one. Everything TD42 is expensive, especially performance stuff
 

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Here's some pics of the impeller.


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Thanks heaps, good close ups. As I didnt fit mine I never got to see it before fitting. The RMS and the Dirk are worlds apart in the looks, which one is better who knows? I guess if they both do the job with minimal cavitation then great.
 

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Thanks heaps, good close ups. As I didnt fit mine I never got to see it before fitting. The RMS and the Dirk are worlds apart in the looks, which one is better who knows? I guess if they both do the job with minimal cavitation then great.
They are worlds apart. I do not like the design of the rms impeller or whoever else is selling them. They're pretty and all being cnc machined but leave much to be desired.
I have no doubt it will flow better than factory but more flow alone is not what im looking for.

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They are worlds apart. I do not like the design of the rms impeller or whoever else is selling them. They're pretty and all being cnc machined but leave much to be desired.
I have no doubt it will flow better than factory but more flow alone is not what im looking for.

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That's my intuition exactly. The impellor of the Dirk would appear that it's designed to cut and move the water, the RMS looks like it will thrash the water more, and make more cavitation. The air bubbles cause cracked heads when they build in a head pocket theres no water contact on head and get hot spot. Sorry to state the obvious. i believe Dirk has done a lot of testing to come to his design.
 

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[QUOTE="GQshayne, post: 7073337, member

The cool bypass is very important, and this is part of the thermostat housing. Various tests either attempting to increase it, or decrease it, have not netted any result.

I have blocked it off, made it larger, made it smaller, moved it to two other spots in the housing, tried bypass and non-bypass thermostats, reduced the radiator inlet size to 19mm, and all of these things done in conjunction with each other. Months and months of testing.

The cool bypass??
I don't understand this term.

Why did you choose 19mm for the radiator hose inlet?

How have you measures the changes as opposed to modifications?

What makes you think the thermostat housing is a bottle neck?


PLEASE don't take offense.
I am merely interested.
 

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He probably meant cold side remote thermostat system. As you will know cold side systems is a lot better system for a more responsive, stable or constant system, due to the bypass water and cold water from the radiator has a chance to mixed properly and cool all the water before the pump and and entering the block. Also using a proper 30+mm bypass thermostat will allow volumes to flow without having to generate huge pressure to get flow volumes for our TD42 200rwkw heat machines.

The thermostat chamber entry from the head port has 2 x 90 degree turns and another 90 degree turn into the bypass or thermostat, not good. Besides that the pissy little odd oval shaped hole entering the thermostat/bypass chamber has the square mm size of less than a 25mm round outlet. this is the bottleneck Shayne is talking about. That pissy inlet has to feed a 19mm bypass hole and a 30mm thermostat outlet. It's a wonder of Nissan logic it even works in a fashion for 85kw engine power.
 

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[QUOTE="GQshayne, post: 7073337, member

The cool bypass is very important, and this is part of the thermostat housing. Various tests either attempting to increase it, or decrease it, have not netted any result.

I have blocked it off, made it larger, made it smaller, moved it to two other spots in the housing, tried bypass and non-bypass thermostats, reduced the radiator inlet size to 19mm, and all of these things done in conjunction with each other. Months and months of testing.

The cool bypass??
I don't understand this term.

Why did you choose 19mm for the radiator hose inlet?

How have you measures the changes as opposed to modifications?

What makes you think the thermostat housing is a bottle neck?


PLEASE don't take offense.
I am merely interested.
Typo - should have said "coolant".

Any testing apart from pump pressure was temperature based.
 

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He probably meant cold side remote thermostat system. As you will know cold side systems is a lot better system for a more responsive, stable or constant system, due to the bypass water and cold water from the radiator has a chance to mixed properly and cool all the water before the pump and and entering the block. Also using a proper 30+mm bypass thermostat will allow volumes to flow without having to generate huge pressure to get flow volumes for our TD42 200rwkw heat machines.

The thermostat chamber entry from the head port has 2 x 90 degree turns and another 90 degree turn into the bypass or thermostat, not good. Besides that the pissy little odd oval shaped hole entering the thermostat/bypass chamber has the square mm size of less than a 25mm round outlet. this is the bottleneck Shayne is talking about. That pissy inlet has to feed a 19mm bypass hole and a 30mm thermostat outlet. It's a wonder of Nissan logic it even works in a fashion for 85kw engine power.

There are a few things I find discerning;

The TD42 heat machine?
I find this odd and the premise that suddenly at 200kw it becomes uncontrollable.
200kw is roughly 270hp, hardly big numbers. 270hp on 6 cylinders is roughly 45hp per cylinder. For comparison a Honda XR 600 makes roughly the same power from its single cylinder air cooled all alloy engine. I know i will get hammered with the torque numbers, but still they are hardly big numbers.
Our TD42 doesn't see big rpm's either.
It's all but over at 4000rpm.

The glaring omission I see is water pump testing and devolpment.
All other modifications and subsequent testing is void without a proper functioning pump.
This includes cavitation.
The water quality after the pump needs to be checked for cavitation, flow and pressure. I cannot stress this highly enough.
You will always be chasing cooling system woes with a cavitating pump, and the problems compound with higher tunes.
 

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GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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IDI engines by nature will always transfer more heat into the coolant, due to the pre combustion chamber. DI or petrol pass that otherwise precomb heat out the exhaust.

Its easier to make power with more rpm's usually.

Pumping ability or power ability is always easier with less resistance. It may come to pass the STD pump impeller just might be OK for our little mere power values with less system resistance, who knows without trying.

Besides with external hoses feeding the pump we can fit a proper flow meter to establish a proper pump curve and test accurately with confidence the flow rate and the important cavitation.
 

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There are a few things I find discerning;

The TD42 heat machine?
I find this odd and the premise that suddenly at 200kw it becomes uncontrollable.
200kw is roughly 270hp, hardly big numbers. 270hp on 6 cylinders is roughly 45hp per cylinder. For comparison a Honda XR 600 makes roughly the same power from its single cylinder air cooled all alloy engine. I know i will get hammered with the torque numbers, but still they are hardly big numbers.
Our TD42 doesn't see big rpm's either.
It's all but over at 4000rpm.

The glaring omission I see is water pump testing and devolpment.
All other modifications and subsequent testing is void without a proper functioning pump.
This includes cavitation.
The water quality after the pump needs to be checked for cavitation, flow and pressure. I cannot stress this highly enough.
You will always be chasing cooling system woes with a cavitating pump, and the problems compound with higher tunes.
I will leave you to argue with Oldmav on the subject. I have lost interest.

I won't be adding any more information in this thread.
 

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So after a couple more discussions I think I'm back to wanting an electric pump to try, due price and a big one at the moment is availability. I see Smeagol however has issue with it maybe working too well, is 150lpm too large?
 

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So after a couple more discussions I think I'm back to wanting an electric pump to try, due price and a big one at the moment is availability. I see Smeagol however has issue with it maybe working too well, is 150lpm too large?
It's an ewp if you want less flow slow the pump down.

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It's an ewp if you want less flow slow the pump down.

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As I've read on here, the controller sends the signal but it always cycles in some way or another making warm up a bit harder as stated by Smeagol, wouldnt always be an issue I guess only when ambient temp is cold.
 

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As I've read on here, the controller sends the signal but it always cycles in some way or another making warm up a bit harder as stated by Smeagol, wouldnt always be an issue I guess only when ambient temp is cold.
Yeah ok still can't see a smaller ewp being of any benefit. It will only do what the controller is telling it to.

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I will leave you to argue with Oldmav on the subject. I have lost interest.

I won't be adding any more information in this thread.
I feel I should clarify this, for the benefit of our other members looking for a solution.

I have lost interest in pointless, one way discussion, where results are claimed, and no information is provided to members. This benefits no-one in our "community". I think if you are going to use this forum and its members as a resource, then you should be giving back when you are able.

Currently, I do not have a solution, only some theories. But if a solution is found that works on a number of engines, and can be proven, then hopefully we will have a design that can benefit many people. Rest assured, this design will be available to all members. As it should be.
 

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c
There are a few things I find discerning;

The TD42 heat machine?
I find this odd and the premise that suddenly at 200kw it becomes uncontrollable.
200kw is roughly 270hp, hardly big numbers. 270hp on 6 cylinders is roughly 45hp per cylinder. For comparison a Honda XR 600 makes roughly the same power from its single cylinder air cooled all alloy engine. I know i will get hammered with the torque numbers, but still they are hardly big numbers.
Our TD42 doesn't see big rpm's either.
It's all but over at 4000rpm.

The glaring omission I see is water pump testing and devolpment.
All other modifications and subsequent testing is void without a proper functioning pump.
This includes cavitation.
The water quality after the pump needs to be checked for cavitation, flow and pressure. I cannot stress this highly enough.
You will always be chasing cooling system woes with a cavitating pump, and the problems compound with higher tunes.
again queries coming from the expert that hasnt presented a single useful piece of information in what is it now 2 years? if there isnt enough flow or head pressure to a pump its going to cavitate. how can you create a proper functioning pump without decent flow to the pump?
 

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also for what its worth. i have an rms pump on my truck. did i make a difference, i honestly dont really think so. still gets to the point i have to crawl up main range or the toowoomba range. it will still hit 105+c when towing at around 120kmh. this is all usually at night, very early in the morning or in winter. it still takes a while to recover the temps as well. ive seen 115c a couple of times as well. so its not a silver bullet fix.
its fitted with a colorado hub and pajero fan with an extra tube of silicone in it. a bit of effort has been made to plank off airflow around the rad but not enough. has shrouds all underneath. air dam in front of diff.
working against it is the fmic, 240mm driving lights and the bullbar is pretty average in the airflow department. but has bucketloads of room between rad and bar.
i had it tuned a couple of years ago (then send the IP out for a mod) and from everything ive tried so far. the best thing i found to help overheating was pump timing. after that tune i think i got up main range at around 70kmh the whole way towing. had to brake for the corners up hill. never done that before the tune or since the pump come back.
 

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also for what its worth. i have an rms pump on my truck. did i make a difference, i honestly dont really think so. still gets to the point i have to crawl up main range or the toowoomba range. it will still hit 105+c when towing at around 120kmh. this is all usually at night, very early in the morning or in winter. it still takes a while to recover the temps as well. ive seen 115c a couple of times as well. so its not a silver bullet fix.
its fitted with a colorado hub and pajero fan with an extra tube of silicone in it. a bit of effort has been made to plank off airflow around the rad but not enough. has shrouds all underneath. air dam in front of diff.
working against it is the fmic, 240mm driving lights and the bullbar is pretty average in the airflow department. but has bucketloads of room between rad and bar.
i had it tuned a couple of years ago (then send the IP out for a mod) and from everything ive tried so far. the best thing i found to help overheating was pump timing. after that tune i think i got up main range at around 70kmh the whole way towing. had to brake for the corners up hill. never done that before the tune or since the pump come back.
Have you sealed up around the radiator to the radiator support?
I made a manometer and checked before and after fitting an air dam under the rad and sealing off around the rad to the support and noticed a definite differance in pressure between the rad and condencer and infront of the intercooler once I'd done that. (promoting more airflow)

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Have you sealed up around the radiator to the radiator support?
I made a manometer and checked before and after fitting an air dam under the rad and sealing off around the rad to the support and noticed a definite differance in pressure between the rad and condencer and infront of the intercooler once I'd done that. (promoting more airflow)

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no i havent. ive got to replace the rad support. maybe when i pull it down to do this i will get some extra foam and give it a shot. airflow seems to be the key to them. i even shut the bonnet scoop off as it has a front mount to see if that made a difference. so far nope. going to give pete a ring tomorrow to see if i can organise a tune and see if that makes a difference.
 
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