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no i havent. ive got to replace the rad support. maybe when i pull it down to do this i will get some extra foam and give it a shot. airflow seems to be the key to them. i even shut the bonnet scoop off as it has a front mount to see if that made a difference. so far nope. going to give pete a ring tomorrow to see if i can organise a tune and see if that makes a difference.
That copper tube insulation works a treat can jam it in all sorts of spots to stop air leakage around the rad and promote a low air pressure behind the rad with the dam/ deflector to increase flow through the cooler pack. When iv got my rad out next I was thinking of folding up some ally sheet with some D shaped rubber to better seal up mine aswell as fit sensor ports to measure the temp drop across the core.


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As I've read on here, the controller sends the signal but it always cycles in some way or another making warm up a bit harder as stated by Smeagol, wouldnt always be an issue I guess only when ambient temp is cold.
I have completed quite a costly installation using the EWP setup. I removed the standard components from the front of the engine and replaced with Diesel Performance parts intakes. I also used twin 16" Spal fans on the back of the radiator. I have these running of a separate Davies Craig controller as this allows a 5 degree drop, where the pump controller only allows for a 3 degree drop. The Spal fans are the back up fans to the air conditioner fan that is standard with our trucks.
The controller that comes with the kit has been wired into the air conditioner fan to run to keep the engine temps stable. Most of the time driving around town, it is only the air con fan that will run. If I give it a bootfull, I will see the twin fans cut in. What I also noticed about it in winter is it takes a long time for the heater inside the cab to klick in as the pump is only pulsing until the set temperataure where it will run permanently, then the in cab air warms up as the coolant is flowing through the cab continuously. To overcome this I overide the pump setting on the controller to get it flowing continuously. I am thinking of wiring the pump up to the ignition to have this occur full time, instead of letting the controller turn it on/off.

What I noticed about the above configuration is the power draw to run this. I made mention of this a few pages back. To overcome this I now run a 200amp Lithium battery as both a starter and dual charging straight from the radiator. I have installed a 150 amp alternator to charge this. I am also going to modify the pulley to a 58mm to generate more power on idle.
Another item I have also noticed is the alternator not being efficient anymore with generating power due to the under bonnet temps that I now have. What I didn't consider with this is on the standard setup with our trucks, a fan is blowing air through the engine bay permanently from start up. Mine only runs when it gets to temp, which is around 85 degrees and only runs until it hits 82 degrees when the controller cuts the fan. Wit no airflow through the engine come a hot alternator with less efficiency. See the issue? Continuously trying to fight itself it is.

The rabbit hole was very deep for me on this. I went all out. Would I recommend this to anyone? Not unless you are prepared to spend countless weekends and thousands of dollars completing it to get to the point I did. I am very happy with the final outcome and never see my temps jump to 100 degrees anymore. I have enjoyed the additional power that comes without the drag on the water pump, as I don't have a belt driving full time anymore. Only issue is that I have the wrong gearing in my truck nbow the portal exles have been completed which runs the engine too high down the freeway causing heating issues. This will be changes shortly.

Next modification will be to try and drop the intake temps to assist the rest of the modification I have completed. I have been going down the rabbit hole of an Interchiller with a modified air inlet and W2A Intercooler. Also looking to run a 12v air con pump and remove the standard pump to take the load of the car when running. As I have said, down another deep rabbit hole.

Will look to get some photos when I can of the setup and put the up if people are interested.
 

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nissan
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I wouldn't be looking at doing thermo fans, as much as I would love to it would also mean I would need more fans on my W2A heat exchanger as the engine fan at the moment pulls sufficient air to keep it cool when doing high load low speed work. As much as I would love the silent running and extra power funds do not permit at the moment. I can get an EWP150 kit for $315 which includes the controller and all which would be good if one day I do fit thermos it has the fan controller built in. I have been in a few discussions with Derk John now as well showing me the video's that I'm sure everyone has seen.

I would love do complete an interchiller one day as well. Big rabbit hole that one.
 

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So at the moment you are looking at 25 weeks for a Derk pump, and no word from RMS on their pump.

Has anyone taken the factory housing to a machine shop and get them to take some off the face to try close the gap on the wiping face?
 

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When I first bought my GU coil cab 42TDT (non intercooled) she would sit around the 100 -110 (highway driving) constantly without pushing it hard, come to a hill or give it a little too much right foot and she would get to 120 in a matter of seconds and I would have to back right off to get the temp to drop. So after getting peed off with this, I decided to see what I could do to solve the heating issue - done a little shopping and got - 1) new radiator - 2) water pump - 3) G35 fan - 4) thermostat 5) couple of tubes of viscous hub oil - 6) new coolant....so out came the radiator, water pump, thermostat, fan and hub, put the oil in the hub (only part that wasn't brand new) new gaskets for pump and thermostat housing, put all the new bits on and then cut up a bit of old foam I had laying around and stuffed it around the radiator to help with wind flow through the radiator. Now she sits around 85 - 90 (highway driving) most of the time, will still rise a little when coming to a hill or pushing her hard but hasn't gone over 110 at all yet (that was going up Bulli pass on a 30 degree day towing 18ft tinny) .... I regularly drive to Tweed Heads (500 odd k's) and Sydney (300 k's) and she is yet to overheat.........the parts I got were ...standard replacement radiator -$180 -- GMB water pump and gasket $85.56c, oem thermostat $16.50 , G35fan $100, toyota hub oil $14, thermostat gasket $9.09, coolant $33 - all up $438.15 (I have kept the old radiator, fan and water pump as spares).......( I have NO inner guard splash covers or the plastic bash plate under the front,,,,yet - which should reduce engine bay heat more -------- also the radiator is not connected to the overflow bottle) radiator was bought off guy who bought the wrong one - coolant from supercheap, the rest from ebay. --- Hopefully some of this will help someone else solve their kettle issues or at least help those that don't want to spend thousands........and of course this may not have the same result on every car as all engines are different.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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So at the moment you are looking at 25 weeks for a Derk pump, and no word from RMS on their pump.

Has anyone taken the factory housing to a machine shop and get them to take some off the face to try close the gap on the wiping face?
What you suggest has been done before. In my case I went a bit further and made a modified impellor, in conjunction with a modified timing case. A quality (not $50 from ebay) water pump will have 2.5 -3mm tolerance between the impellor and timing case. Cheapies have been measured at 6mm. Mine is now less than 1mm. Standard pumps make about 5psi, mine makes 11psi.

So the pump has much greater capacity, and when tested back to back with a standard pump, it has no effect on temperatures at all. This is why there are a number of people with improved pumps that are still looking for improvement.

If you want improvements then the best thing you can do at this stage is get VERY serious about your air flow - block off every gap you can find around your radiator. Not just the radiator support panel, look in front of it too. Of all the testing I have done to this stage, improving airflow has had the greatest effect.

There are other cooling system issues I am looking at now (building a prototype), but right now, airflow is your best mod, and will cost almost nothing to do. Rubber seals, and some rubber sheet etc would have cost me about $30 total.
 

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What you suggest has been done before. In my case I went a bit further and made a modified impellor, in conjunction with a modified timing case. A quality (not $50 from ebay) water pump will have 2.5 -3mm tolerance between the impellor and timing case. Cheapies have been measured at 6mm. Mine is now less than 1mm. Standard pumps make about 5psi, mine makes 11psi.

So the pump has much greater capacity, and when tested back to back with a standard pump, it has no effect on temperatures at all. This is why there are a number of people with improved pumps that are still looking for improvement.

If you want improvements then the best thing you can do at this stage is get VERY serious about your air flow - block off every gap you can find around your radiator. Not just the radiator support panel, look in front of it too. Of all the testing I have done to this stage, improving airflow has had the greatest effect.

There are other cooling system issues I am looking at now (building a prototype), but right now, airflow is your best mod, and will cost almost nothing to do. Rubber seals, and some rubber sheet etc. would have cost me about $30 total.
Hey Mate, yeah have done all that, as said in the other post a bit I'm a bit like you, my ute doesn't overheat just know it could be better. pretty well just ill do a bit of smoothing out here and there in the housings and she be right at the moment.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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On my last Kimberley trip I was lucky enough to come to the wonderful realisation that i had a leak in my radiator… parked on the beach more than 20 kms from the exit, facing the ocean, walking back to the car to grab more bait and noticed the unmistakable trail of coolant dripping off the wind deflector.

It seemed to in the core somewhere, hard to tell and I was buggered if I was taking it out, so a small cylinder of silver seal and it hasn’t lost a drop since.

Nevertheless only a brave man would call it a permanent repair. A three core is not an option as that would not offer enough clearance for the UFI fan, and I was not impressed with the existing 2 core, it was an expensive Adrad copper/brass and only lasted 2 1/2 years before the leak.

The cheap ‘genuine type’ ally/plastic ones look very much like the factory unit, but the fin count is somewhat lacking compared to the factory.

So… genuine it is.

Window Musical instrument accessory Bumper Gas Automotive exterior


Now to get to the point of this post, for anyone interested, is the fin count.

This is the genuine Nissan unit, as just fitted today;

Automotive tire Font Material property Gas Technology


And to compare, the copper/brass Adrad unit (not cheap either);

Font Engineering Gas Composite material Metal


Now I have no expertise whatsoever in this field so take my observations with a grain of salt.

The genuine ally core has about 22 fins per inch, the Adrad copper one has 17. Open to interpretation depending on what you decide is the first one but regardless it’s certainly a few more.

Also I note the ally fins are parallel, but the copper core has its fins in sort of triangles, perhaps restricting airflow closer to the most acute angle in each case? I don’t know if this is significant or even relevant, just an observation.

I‘m hoping this radiator will be an improvement in the cooling compared to the other one. I won’t know for a while I’d think, when not towing my camper in summer it never gets off thermostat temp anyway.

It was more messing around than just a rad change, as it requires the factory expansion and overflow tank set up, which Matt pestered me to fit anyway, so I got genuine Nissan units there too and had to make brackets for it to fit as air box is in the way of the factory spot.

I’ll finish it tomorrow, if I can be bothered I’ll also make some brackets and plumb the heat exchanger in to heater hose as I’m setting up a storage hot water system in the back so I can kill two birds with the one stone.

Anyway I digress, just wanted to show the difference in the fins for anyone interested.
 

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nissan
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Smart move fitting the genuine radiator. They do the job just fine...

When we were at Lorella Springs in 2013, we managed to sever a few of the cores right at the underside of the top tank.....1 x $1300 PWR radiator bites the dust...

Got a cheap factory style radiator from Darwin. (Luckily, the Lorella people were going to Darwin for supplies the following day)
It got us home, but there were several differences that I didn't like.
It just felt flimsy and cheap. The fin count was nothing like the factory unit, and never mind 2 core or 3 core....1 core was it...

Got a genuine unit from Garry when we got home.
 

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I've also reverted back to the factory radiator after fitting a PWR when I bought the car and a 3 core brass copper about 5years ago (on advice from experts) . The thin factory radiator is so much easier to work with and allows fitment of the UFI fan. Have towed the camper and also a car on trailer and overheating did not happen as per previous. Last dyno showed the car just under 200rwkw and old mate at dyno shop said you'll be up for a bigger radiator next, that one will struggle to keep up. He said most of the TDs he sees have the thick PWRs or brass/copper units. I'll be sticking with this for now. As we know there's more to this fix than just the radiator. (y)
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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On my last Kimberley trip I was lucky enough to come to the wonderful realisation that i had a leak in my radiator… parked on the beach more than 20 kms from the exit, facing the ocean, walking back to the car to grab more bait and noticed the unmistakable trail of coolant dripping off the wind deflector.

It seemed to in the core somewhere, hard to tell and I was buggered if I was taking it out, so a small cylinder of silver seal and it hasn’t lost a drop since.

Nevertheless only a brave man would call it a permanent repair. A three core is not an option as that would not offer enough clearance for the UFI fan, and I was not impressed with the existing 2 core, it was an expensive Adrad copper/brass and only lasted 2 1/2 years before the leak.

The cheap ‘genuine type’ ally/plastic ones look very much like the factory unit, but the fin count is somewhat lacking compared to the factory.

So… genuine it is.

View attachment 536693

Now to get to the point of this post, for anyone interested, is the fin count.

This is the genuine Nissan unit, as just fitted today;

View attachment 536695

And to compare, the copper/brass Adrad unit (not cheap either);

View attachment 536696

Now I have no expertise whatsoever in this field so take my observations with a grain of salt.

The genuine ally core has about 22 fins per inch, the Adrad copper one has 17. Open to interpretation depending on what you decide is the first one but regardless it’s certainly a few more.

Also I note the ally fins are parallel, but the copper core has its fins in sort of triangles, perhaps restricting airflow closer to the most acute angle in each case? I don’t know if this is significant or even relevant, just an observation.

I‘m hoping this radiator will be an improvement in the cooling compared to the other one. I won’t know for a while I’d think, when not towing my camper in summer it never gets off thermostat temp anyway.

It was more messing around than just a rad change, as it requires the factory expansion and overflow tank set up, which Matt pestered me to fit anyway, so I got genuine Nissan units there too and had to make brackets for it to fit as air box is in the way of the factory spot.

I’ll finish it tomorrow, if I can be bothered I’ll also make some brackets and plumb the heat exchanger in to heater hose as I’m setting up a storage hot water system in the back so I can kill two birds with the one stone.

Anyway I digress, just wanted to show the difference in the fins for anyone interested.
When it comes to fin count, more is not necessarily better. Adrad have 3 different specs for their ally units, depending on application, and for the same reason that 3 cores do not always work well in the Patrol - airflow is not the best in our vehicles. If the core is too thick and the find count too high then airflow can suffer. I recorded temp data when I changed my radiator to an ally 3 core, and there was little advantage until I did some airflow mods.

Your genuine ally unit will work quite well I reckon.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I’ve had an Adrad copper and brass radiator in my GQ for over 8 years now and it hasn’t leaked. So maybe you were unlucky, Leethal. It can happen.


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My original Adrad copper radiator is even older than yours, and still works too!
 

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Thanks for the comparison in cores! I have found that the radiator isn’t the problem! Nor is the fan! It is the water pump and the small galleries that the water must flow through! I have a custom built 4 core radiator in mine with a modified water pump and an eleven blade BMW fan and 100 cst oil in my fan hub. The thing still gets hot. Next move is to pull the head and drill the water galleries a little bigger and try an electric pump with a bit more flow. Hopefully just opening the water galleries a little will do the job. Old Nav might chime in here as I know he has played with drilling water galleries!
 

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nissan
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My Adrad copper radiator is 11 years old this Christmas.

If I ever need to pull my head I'll be drilling some big holes through the deck in the head and block at the back. Almost every other engine I've seen has big galleries at this point but the TD does not.
 

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When it comes to engineering Oldmav is the expert, and I am certainly not. But I think we have already shown that on the T spec engine (larger than Silvertop) the galleries are not the problem. Measuring volume is very difficult to do, as he tried that years ago, and simply broke the testing equipment as I recall. So that leaves us with using pressure as a test reference. By testing pump pressures at different points, we can identify pressure drop, and therefore find restrictions. Not so easy with a standard water pump, as they produce about 5 psi in the block and it reduces as you go through the head and then the thermostat housing. My modified pump however, makes 11psi in the block, and also at the thermostat housing, so there is no pressure drop across the system.

And yet with this pump the temperature problems still persist. I can remove this pump and fit an OEM spec (quality) standard pump, and it makes no measurable difference during testing. Yes the pump is much better than the standard unit in terms of its capacity (5 psi compared to 11 psi), but it does not effect temperature readings taken, being engine temp, and also inlet and outlet of the radiator. So draw from that what you will, but at this stage we are looking elsewhere for the main issue with the system. Testing is ongoing, and hopefully there will be a result this summer. Only time will tell though.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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I’ve had an Adrad copper and brass radiator in my GQ for over 8 years now and it hasn’t leaked. So maybe you were unlucky, Leethal. It can happen.


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Yeah mate I had the same in my GQ, not quite as old as yours I think but still going well when the car was at its end.

In the GQ the three core fit with the UFI fan and hub but not in my GU, rad support panel must be a smidge further back in GUs I guess.
 
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