Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
61 - 80 of 106 Posts

· Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Some info that may help u out.
Have only rebuilt a couple of engine. Mid 80's I did not have much spare cash (still don't lol) and from 2 x B series 4cyl NA diesels I built one up for my FJ45 swb LC (similar situation).

Sounds that your latest SD purchased is in reasonably condition. The crank maybe just a newer design _ just guessing.

I would hone of the bores, they do not look too bad and you may find those marks / scores are not that deep anyway. 4-6 passes most likely not enough but this is a diesel engine old school so give it a go. Could use an internal micrometer to check diameters (as you go), but if not readily available, maybe buy an internal telescopic gauge set (maybe more affordable) and then measure across points with Vernier (be pretty accurate). Cheaper Ebay jobs but this is an example of one that may suit. Just an idea:


So the next question I have then is if I go to supercheap and pick up one of these:
From what I'm reading just do 4-6 passes with it to get the cross-hatching back, I'll be able to use the same pistons and some new rings? Keeping in mind that I've found as James said earlier since liners can be bought I can't find any oversized pistons, so anything I do will be with standard sized everything. Just need to know if that will take too much material off to make it run like new with standard everything.
I read a lot about taking too much material off giving piston slap, which is probably why my old engine was so damn loud at idle.
Still have the hone tool that I used and is similar as you referenced (should be fine).. Just be mindful when drawing hone up, do not go past stone head pivot point or it will flip out of bore. Just keep moving up/down evenly and take your time. Plenty of Youtube stuff out there I am sure.

Agree, I would use the latest eng pistons (be determined after examination), first look at new std rings (ie:sizing), gudgeon pin and small end bearings may be OK, install new big end bearing (recon u would anyway), give existing valves a clean / re-seat and what ever else you think as you proceed.

You are all over this stuff anyway.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
You are all over this stuff anyway.
I'm not sure that's entirely true, but I appreciate the kind words.

Sounds that your latest SD purchased is in reasonably condition. The crank maybe just a newer design _ just guessing.
Yes it does appear to be in much better condition, the cranks are the same as far as I can tell, just the new one's been balanced more aggressively from factory by the looks of it. Perhaps it's better balanced? Or it was a worse casting to start out with. I don't know, I suppose it doesn't really matter, I've pretty much decided I'm using it either way. The big end bearings don't have the same condensation marks that the old engine had so even though this one sat without a head or sump plug (oil drained from sump) for over a year, it never got condensation in the bearings which is excellent.

I would hone of the bores, they do not look too bad and you may find those marks / scores are not that deep anyway. 4-6 passes most likely not enough but this is a diesel engine old school so give it a go. Could use an internal micrometer to check diameters (as you go), but if not readily available, maybe buy an internal telescopic gauge set (maybe more affordable) and then measure across points with Vernier (be pretty accurate).
Today I went and got a bore hone, not the nice cheap one from supercheap that I would likely only use once, because supercheap apparently don't sell them anymore, because there's not enough people buying them. So went to tools.com because they were the next closest place and had a good one on special for $78, which they told me when I got there they'd already sold. So I ended up caving and getting a nicer one, I don't remember the brand, I'll have a look tomorrow, but I ended up paying more than twice as much as I was going to pay for the supercheap one 🤦‍♂️

Anyway the Gregory's manual, as inaccurate as it can be, does say to do 20 passes with a hone like that then check to see if the glazing is removed and the cross hatching back:
Book Font Publication Paper Paper product

I figure I'll just do that and run with it, if the bores haven't been de-glazed/honed before they shouldn't go out of spec with how conservative I'll be.

Agree, I would use the latest eng pistons (be determined after examination), first look at new std rings (ie:sizing), gudgeon pin and small end bearings may be OK, install new big end bearing (recon u would anyway), give existing valves a clean / re-seat and what ever else you think as you proceed.
Yep, I'll be using this engine's pistons, I realised the other day I need to regardless because the old ones have been decked along with the block, and I'm not planning on running a low compression-high boost engine lol; well high boost for an SD I suppose.
Yep all bottom end bearings will be replaced. The gudgeons and small ends, just like on the old motor, feel perfect which is awesome, and tomorrow I'm taking the new engine's crank to the shop so hopefully he can measure it up and tell me whether it's within spec soon, so I know what size bearings to order. I'll need to write a list of seals and gaskets to send to Garry too so I can get pricing on all that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bidja

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
So continuing from my above post today I got the crank out so I can take it to the engine builder when I wake up. the good crank, from the new engine, is the black one:
Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Personal protective equipment Fashion accessory Auto part

Automotive tire Gear Font Auto part Gas

Can see the more aggressive balancing drill holes in those pics.
Since my old engine had been driven consistently not long before I pulled it apart, all the oil came off everything relatively easily, whereas the oil in the new engine has been caked on undisturbed for over a year, so it's a bit more sticky and when left alone it just stays on stuff a bit more. Hopefully when I get my crank back though it'll be nice and shiny just like the old one somehow ended up, combination of being wrapped in a rag and being touched lots.

Lucky this is all being pulled off and cleaned...
Flash photography Gas Water Circle Personal protective equipment

Dunno which engine's timing gears to use yet, I'm going to use the injector pump off my old engine initially because I know it works and has likely been rebuilt or modified at some stage, I will get this one tested though. The new one's been sitting without injector lines and sadly there's dirt and grit inside the delivery valves, so I'll need to find out whether the pump itself is good. If it is, a good clean and I've got myself a spare injector pump, whichever one I don't end up using.

The pump may have been opened on the new engine, the little holders between each delivery valve have got yellow aligning marks on them, not sure:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Gas Vehicle


I also need to find somewhere to get my injectors tested, and maybe they can test the pumps at the same time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bidja

· Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Today I went and got a bore hone, not the nice cheap one from supercheap that I would likely only use once, because supercheap apparently don't sell them anymore,
Worthwhile buying better quality for these kind of jobs. How things have change, you would have your own hone tool, but from a mate you could most likely get a loan of a ring compressor.

Anyway the Gregory's manual, as inaccurate as it can be, does say to do 20 passes with a hone like that then check to see if the glazing is removed and the cross hatching back:
Go with it and suggest Kero (in squeeze bottle), you will also need some for cleaning by the looks of the preservation coating. haha

I also need to find somewhere to get my injectors tested, and maybe they can test the pumps at the same time.
Injector bodies most likely OK, maybe get new nozzles and set. See what service shop has to say.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Alright, so I took the crank to the engine builder on Friday, he's got stuff backed up for months but said he'll get it measured within the next 1-2 weeks, hopefully if it needs grinding he'll tell me first, but that just means a little while longer before I can start ordering parts.

When I get to the reassembly stage, what methods should I use to clean everything? I want this engine to go back together pristine, but that won't happen if it gets put back together in it's current dirty state.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Good news!
He got time to measure up the crank and he said it's in very good condition, I think he was expecting it to be pretty bad after the disaster that was the previous block. Didn't need grinding, he just gave it a 'linish' (?) to get the bearing surface looking good again and gave it a clean up, and I can use standard size bearings for the rebuild which is awesome.

So just got to complete the teardown of this engine (which I've been slack on because I wasn't expecting the crank back so soon), the light cylinder hone, order all the bearings and piston rings, as well as mostly genuine gaskets by the sounds of it, and give him the block to clean. That way I can at least get the bottom end back together and decide how much work I'm going to do to the head.
 

· Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
57,026 Posts
Good news!
He got time to measure up the crank and he said it's in very good condition, I think he was expecting it to be pretty bad after the disaster that was the previous block. Didn't need grinding, he just gave it a 'linish' (?) to get the bearing surface looking good again and gave it a clean up, and I can use standard size bearings for the rebuild which is awesome.

So just got to complete the teardown of this engine (which I've been slack on because I wasn't expecting the crank back so soon), the light cylinder hone, order all the bearings and piston rings, as well as mostly genuine gaskets by the sounds of it, and give him the block to clean. That way I can at least get the bottom end back together and decide how much work I'm going to do to the head.
Linish is basically a grit polish, common engineering term.
All working out OK.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Alright just figuring out what gaskets I need for the rebuild, @james008 is it just the head, manifold, and front/rear mains that I need to go genuine?
Need to know what to email Garry about.
 

· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
11,511 Posts
Alright just figuring out what gaskets I need for the rebuild, @james008 is it just the head, manifold, and front/rear mains that I need to go genuine?
Need to know what to email Garry about.
Yeah they are the ones that are most important to use genuine only.
Even stuff like timing cover gasket, main/big end bearings, rings etc aren't too badly priced genuine from memory.
10101-C8726 is P/N for a full engine gasket kit. It'll come with stuff you don't need, but its easier than looking at each individual gasket.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Yeah they are the ones that are most important to use genuine only.
Even stuff like timing cover gasket, main/big end bearings, rings etc aren't too badly priced genuine from memory.
10101-C8726 is P/N for a full engine gasket kit. It'll come with stuff you don't need, but its easier than looking at each individual gasket.
Oh sweet, thanks for that, I didn't know Nissan supplied a kit for these engines. I'll send Garry an email now to ask about that.

Also I've already ordered rings and bearings, I got them off a website called Mag Engines which I've never heard of, but they sell Taiho bearings which the engine builder recognised and said he used, so I grabbed a set of complete bearings and new rings from them.

Now that I think of it I should get a kingpin bearing kit from Garry while I'm at it.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Yeah they are the ones that are most important to use genuine only.
Even stuff like timing cover gasket, main/big end bearings, rings etc aren't too badly priced genuine from memory.
10101-C8726 is P/N for a full engine gasket kit. It'll come with stuff you don't need, but its easier than looking at each individual gasket.
Uh oh, bad news
Font Screenshot Rectangle Terrestrial plant Number
 
  • Sad
Reactions: rgren2

· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
11,511 Posts
Oh sweet, thanks for that, I didn't know Nissan supplied a kit for these engines. I'll send Garry an email now to ask about that.

Also I've already ordered rings and bearings, I got them off a website called Mag Engines which I've never heard of, but they sell Taiho bearings which the engine builder recognised and said he used, so I grabbed a set of complete bearings and new rings from them.

Now that I think of it I should get a kingpin bearing kit from Garry while I'm at it.
Taiho bearings are Japanese, and made there too I think, I've used a set before.
Clearances were good and pretty consistent from what I remember.

Well thats a bummer. If they were still available I probably would have ordered one, some SD gaskets are getting harder to find now.
$235 is pretty good for a head gasket though. Amayama etc list them for around $280. They used to be well under $100 a few years back lol.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Taiho bearings are Japanese, and made there too I think, I've used a set before.
Clearances were good and pretty consistent from what I remember.


Well thats a bummer. If they were still available I probably would have ordered one, some SD gaskets are getting harder to find now.
$235 is pretty good for a head gasket though. Amayama etc list them for around $280. They used to be well under $100 a few years back lol.
Yep, I'm going to continue talking to Garry about just getting the gaskets that are essential to be oem, head gasket, manifold, and the crank seals, and I'll get a cheap ebay set for the rest I reckon.
He says he managed to get a head gasket for $150 a couple months back from his guys in Japan but noone has stock at the moment so it's straight from Nissan. He's going to check Nissan more accurately for availability on Monday though so fingers crossed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: james008

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Anyone heard of a company called Victor Reinz? They seem to be associated with Mahle and are the ones who make most of the ebay head gaskets.

The NOS gasket and the 'Victor Reinz' one look very similar, I wonder if it would be worth picking one up just to compare to the OEM one? Half the price, and I can use it first if it looks good and save the OEM as a spare for when it's only aftermarket ones available lol

OEM:

Victor Reinz:

The manifold gasket on the other hand needs to be genuine, no-one makes a good copy based just on what I see on ebay, all just stamped gaskets.

OEM: (Garry's quote was less than half the price of this one, ebay seller's trying to rip people off)

Victor Reinz:

That Victor manifold gasket garbage is only $15 cheaper than OEM from Nizzbits...
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Alright so I got the gaskets ordered from Garry the other day, still going to be a long wait though 😖
We're headed to Victoria over the christmas/new year holidays, and if we leave when we're planning to my gaskets are probably going to arrive when we're down there, so I hope we've got someone organised to check the mail while we're away haha.
I'll be driving the farm ute (another SD33T) down, definetly going to be taking some earmuffs for the trip, like Roothy did in Milo, it's not quiet in there. That's where the ute will stay, destined to be used on the farm for the rest of it's days. It probably won't be used often as we only go down every other christmas, and other than that it likely won't see much use. But it'll be away from the moisture and salt of the sunny coast, so hopefully some of the rust slows down, especially now that Dad has treated it all and filled all the holes up with body filler and fibreglass.

Anyway so my engine rebuild will have to wait until late January...
But I've got the cam and lifters out of the new engine, kept the lifters in order of course, should I be using the other engine's lifters in the new engine to match the pushrods? If I do that the lifters, pushrods, and rockers will all match up, otherwise the pushrods and different lifters will have to wear into each other again correct?

Also the delivery valves on the new engine's injector pump are definitely new, my guess would be that they probably got replaced just before, or at the same time as, the engine got the head torn off, presumably for an unfinished reconditioning. My bearings and rings also arrived yesterday, they all look very good, pretty much what I expected.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Quick question,
Decided to do the bore honing today, I think I’ve done 1 cylinder so far, but Dad reckons I haven’t done quite enough.

When using the drill honing tool, is the aim for me to just put some cross-hatching back into the cylinders, so as not to actually increase the size of the cylinder a measurable amount?
Or is the aim to put the cross-hatching back into it while honing enough to properly clean up the cylinder to a ‘blank canvas’ essentially?

I’m pretty happy with where it is now, after 20 passes has the hatching back in and looks clean enough, am I supposed to do more than that?


 

· I Have Imaginary Friends
Patrol Hybrid.
Joined
·
22,498 Posts
Cross hatching means cross hatching, not circular grinding. But then again, others may disagree.

 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Cross hatching means cross hatching, not circular grinding. But then again, others may disagree.
It does look quite flat in the photos, but I promise it’s crossed like it’s supposed to be, maybe a little less angle than it should have though
 

· Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
57,026 Posts
It does look quite flat in the photos, but I promise it’s crossed like it’s supposed to be, maybe a little less angle than it should have though
Yes, the angle is a little shallow, I would have done the up and down much faster. I'd like a dollar for every engine and brake system I've honed.
 

· Registered
MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Joined
·
693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Yes, the angle is a little shallow, I would have done the up and down much faster. I'd like a dollar for every engine and brake system I've honed.
Alright, how does another 20 sound, with a faster up-down, then do the 40 on the other 5?
 
61 - 80 of 106 Posts
Top