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Discussion Starter #21
I鈥檒l also add I had no issue hitting limp mode today. God I love this car. It fixes itself most days of the week. 馃槀馃槀
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Flat road steady throttle holding 100kms
About 2600rpm in fifth gear
Is bang on 11psi most of the time if not 10-11psi
Cool, I see you said earlier that it normally hits a max of 15/16psi, which is also good if you can stay away from limp. The 20psi spike you speak of, is that only momentarily? If so nothing to worry about, normally for limp to occur a condition must last for several seconds.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I鈥檒l also add I had no issue hitting limp mode today. God I love this car. It fixes itself most days of the week. 馃槀馃槀
Lol, I've had this happen after an ECU reset, the vehicle 'learns' to cope with certain parameters.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Cool, I see you said earlier that it normally hits a max of 15/16psi, which is also good if you can stay away from limp. The 20psi spike you speak of, is that only momentarily? If so nothing to worry about, normally for limp to occur a condition must last for several seconds.

Yes it鈥檚 usually around the 15-16psi figures under load it has seen 17 psi flat out in 3rd gear before. It鈥檚 always smooth however.

The 20psi spike is only for a short period of time. Maybe 1-1.5 seconds. Then it drops back to 15 psi then climbs back to 16. You feel a surge in power when it does this. As if the 20 psi was running lean. And you鈥檒l feel the power come back when it comes back down to 15.

Usually only see this in second gear. And a certain way I press the throttle. I would have to pay more attention to how exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Lol, I've had this happen after an ECU reset, the vehicle 'learns' to cope with certain parameters.
I鈥檓 going to monitor it and scan it tomorrow and see if there鈥檚 any codes logged. And try and get it to limp mode while driving tomorrow.
However I feel like the maf has corrected itself since it鈥檚 clean. Only time will tell.

Also will be interesting to see if my l/100 starts to drop again.

Since buying the car 12 months ago my average has been between 10.6 and 11.2l per 100
It has slowly been climbing. Reaching into the 12s last 4 fills have been
13.4
13.6
13.7
13.9.
I鈥檒l be disappointed if I see a 4 before the decimal in the next fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Refresh my memory, what form of boost control do you have?
I鈥檒l also add this discussion I think started in the other thread I made. Incase it has some details you didn鈥檛 know about my situation.



As for boost control it is completely standard. No dawes or manual boost controller (yet)

As for modifications in general. Performance wise it鈥檚 completely standard. Turbo was replaced with an oem equivalent.
Egr still unblocked but it was clean so I seen no need to block it.
Standard exhaust aswell. (Looking at getting a 3 inch with a cat this summer) I feel as if I鈥檒l run into limp problems again. However a mate with his standard crd is running fine.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I鈥檒l also add this discussion I think started in the other thread I made. Incase it has some details you didn鈥檛 know about my situation.



As for boost control it is completely standard. No dawes or manual boost controller (yet)

As for modifications in general. Performance wise it鈥檚 completely standard. Turbo was replaced with an oem equivalent.
Egr still unblocked but it was clean so I seen no need to block it.
Standard exhaust aswell. (Looking at getting a 3 inch with a cat this summer) I feel as if I鈥檒l run into limp problems again. However a mate with his standard crd is running fine.
I have read your other thread, be aware that even though the DI and CRD share many things, there is a lot of difference ECU and control wise, yours may not like the 3", anyway for a DI I prefer 2 3/4" and it may not even like that lol.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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An OEM "equivalent" is a worry if it comes from china, otherwise, there is nothing like the stock turbo to replace a stock turbo in a stock car. An OEM turbo cannot match 100% the original, or it would be called a "copy", which is not allowed in "western countries".

So do not be surprised if what you experience now is not what you had.

As for the 3" exhaust, I have one, stainless steel imported from Australia - very happy with it - BUT I had to control my VNT electronically to get the most out of this new exhaust : a wider exhaust means less back-pressure, and therefore you need to open the vanes in quite a different way than what the ECU does for the stock exhaust.

You will need a multi-valves arrangement then.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
An OEM "equivalent" is a worry if it comes from china, otherwise, there is nothing like the stock turbo to replace a stock turbo in a stock car. An OEM turbo cannot match 100% the original, or it would be called a "copy", which is not allowed in "western countries".

So do not be surprised if what you experience now is not what you had.

As for the 3" exhaust, I have one, stainless steel imported from Australia - very happy with it - BUT I had to control my VNT electronically to get the most out of this new exhaust : a wider exhaust means less back-pressure, and therefore you need to open the vanes in quite a different way than what the ECU does for the stock exhaust.

You will need a multi-valves arrangement then.

It鈥檚 not a Chinese one as such. It鈥檚 a copy that a company in Victoria are selling. They come with balance sheets and a decent warranty.
But I have much better performance now than what I did when I bought the car. A large improvement over the well worn oem turbo.
At the time I was not willing to buy a genuine Garrett. The money was not worth it if it turned out the turbo wasn鈥檛 causing the blow by problems.
Which by the looks of it. It wasn鈥檛. So I guess the motors still only got limited life in it. I would rather not spend big coin where it鈥檚 not nessesary.


What are you using to control your vnt ?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have read your other thread, be aware that even though the DI and CRD share many things, there is a lot of difference ECU and control wise, yours may not like the 3", anyway for a DI I prefer 2 3/4" and it may not even like that lol.
Thanks mate I鈥檒l have a look at my options. In 2 3/4 this week
 

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Recently had an interesting comment on a video I posted.
I roughly get a cup of oil every 3k miles, which doesn't worry me, although some think it's a lot.
I was asked if I replaced the hose from engine (which I have) because factory one has a restrictions inside to limit flow to the intake....

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Recently had an interesting comment on a video I posted.
I roughly get a cup of oil every 3k miles, which doesn't worry me, although some think it's a lot.
I was asked if I replaced the hose from engine (which I have) because factory one has a restrictions inside to limit flow to the intake....

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk
This has been mentioned many times over the years, there is a nylon reducer inside the genuine hose (it is still in the shed), when I first fitted a catch can I changed the hose but made up my own reducer, since then I have gone 1/2" hose between rocker cover and the catch can. Also be aware that the fitting in the rocker cover has its own built in reducer, I replaced mine with one that had 1/2" hole all the way through. It didn't make any significant difference to what I collected between service periods.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well I鈥檝e tried everything I can. Still getting around 500ml per 3000kms I drain it every Sunday and top up the oil as nessasary. I鈥檒l continue to do this until it will run no longer.
Why worry about it anymore. I spent nearly a year stressing over something that鈥檚 as long as a piece of string.
 
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