Can anyone tell ne if it is really nesasary to extend the bump stops with just a 2in lift. I have been running standard bumps for quite a while now and had no problems up to date. Have i been lucky or is this set up ok. I can also disconnect the front and rear stabilisers to allow more flex and this certainly works a treat. The springs and shocks are ironman and are mid load rating for towing and winch and bullbar on front.
IPCH
Extract from my previous post on same subject.
"Noticed on the below failed attempt (to change the front springs) that a 25mm spacer has been welded to the DS front bump stop lower but not the PS. Is there a reason for this or is it just sloppy workmanship? Should I get a matching one welded into the PS bump stop? Especially given the aged well travelled prorider front PS shock recently blew."
Never did get an answer on that part of the post.
What is the lift height you should start considering welding on the bump stop extension I wonder?
"Noticed on the below failed attempt (to change the front springs) that a 25mm spacer has been welded to the DS front bump stop lower but not the PS. Is there a reason for this or is it just sloppy workmanship? Should I get a matching one welded into the PS bump stop? Especially given the aged well travelled prorider front PS shock recently blew."
Never did get an answer on that part of the post.
What is the lift height you should start considering welding on the bump stop extension I wonder?
Really to many governing factor's for a strat answer
main reason I see people do it is to elimanate wheel scrubing which tells me that there 4bys not set up correctly eg to bigger wheels for susspension travel bla bla
me personaly done it to my 4by with a 2'' susspension lift and 30mm tray lift
and a 2'' body lift . At that had no wheel scrubing loaded or not (flat tray way over GVM loaded) . I done it to stop it leaning so much when loaded eg back wheels still traveled to much under tray on the side of a hill and was a lot more prone to roll over and was just scarry
I done a 75mm reinforced box section extention lightly welded to the rear diff housing works a treat and tuff as nail now can go along the side of a hill with 1000/1200KG on it angels of 20/25% no worries
still got to be carefull
very top heavy loaded up
nearly rolled over in a customers driveway one day had to get the missus
to open the passangers door and hang of it was at the point a coke can rolling a cross the floor would have changed the out come :shock: new I had to think of less wheel travel then scarred the poo out of us front passangers wheel would have had 1.5/2 m of day light under it came up and just sat there for a little then slowly started to move towards the shiney side down
the missus's 65KG and the weight of the door open was the saving factor here
But thats why I done it so like I said at the start to many variants
do it if you need to .......don't do it if you don't
would not have done this if it was'nt built for carrying over 1000kg on it's back theres no point empty it's fine all ways was
main reason I see people do it is to elimanate wheel scrubing which tells me that there 4bys not set up correctly eg to bigger wheels for susspension travel bla bla
me personaly done it to my 4by with a 2'' susspension lift and 30mm tray lift
and a 2'' body lift . At that had no wheel scrubing loaded or not (flat tray way over GVM loaded) . I done it to stop it leaning so much when loaded eg back wheels still traveled to much under tray on the side of a hill and was a lot more prone to roll over and was just scarry
I done a 75mm reinforced box section extention lightly welded to the rear diff housing works a treat and tuff as nail now can go along the side of a hill with 1000/1200KG on it angels of 20/25% no worries
still got to be carefull very top heavy loaded up
nearly rolled over in a customers driveway one day had to get the missus
to open the passangers door and hang of it was at the point a coke can rolling a cross the floor would have changed the out come :shock: new I had to think of less wheel travel then scarred the poo out of us front passangers wheel would have had 1.5/2 m of day light under it came up and just sat there for a little then slowly started to move towards the shiney side down
the missus's 65KG and the weight of the door open was the saving factor here
But thats why I done it so like I said at the start to many variants
do it if you need to .......don't do it if you don't
would not have done this if it was'nt built for carrying over 1000kg on it's back theres no point empty it's fine all ways was
The above seems to be about different definitions of bump stops.
Are we talking spacers inserted in between the coil and the upper coil mounting tower?
Are we talking spacers that lift the body that is insert between the chassis and the body?
Are we talking the metal pressed steel bump and the rubber cone that bolts to the top of the coil mounting tower that are in side the coil space that limit the suspension travel in compression?
Are we talking about the rubber cones that limit travel in compression of leaf springs on the rear suspension?
Are we talking spacers inserted in between the coil and the upper coil mounting tower?
Are we talking spacers that lift the body that is insert between the chassis and the body?
Are we talking the metal pressed steel bump and the rubber cone that bolts to the top of the coil mounting tower that are in side the coil space that limit the suspension travel in compression?
Are we talking about the rubber cones that limit travel in compression of leaf springs on the rear suspension?
If your having no probs then it'll be fine.. I never did with my 2 inch, had no probs. If your not scrubbing tires badly or bottoming out the shocks then all good...IPCH said:
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