Factory locker welding repairs

4799 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by bmcxox, Jun 30, 2010

rusty bus

Discussion Starter · Jun 20, 2010

I have read a few posts in regards to guys welding up the engaging points in there factory locked diffs once they wear out, and was hoping i could get some advice.

My diff makes a loud clicking sound when the locker is engaged and either wheel loses traction. I put it up on the hoist and it clicks every quarter of a rotation of the wheels turning against each other. So i am assuming the 4 engaging points have worn out due to the housing being recently damaged. Now i want to pull the diff centre out this weekend and weld up what is required to get it working sweet again, so what i would like to know is the following.....

* When welding up any part of the diff and reshaping to get things sweet again, will i have to get everything heat treated or will the strength created by the weld itself be strong enough??

*What method of welding is preferred?? My only options are either gasless mig or ARC welder.

* Does anyone have a picture or internal diagram of exactly how the factory locker works and what parts are the common culprits for failure. (excluding the actuator and vaccuum solenoid)

* Does the centre just slide out like a normal lsd centre or will i have to undo the actuator or any other parts in order to remove the centre.

Any help you guys can give would be much appreciated,

Cheers john.

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albundy

· #2 · Jun 20, 2010

When I did mine, I took it to a professional race gear maker. The gears had fracture lines through them from all the shock loading. They needed V groving out and welding. This is something I would not do myself. Once you have it out, you'll see what needs welding, the edgeds of the gears get rounded hence not staying in all the time. Three years since I did that and all still going strong. They have even done a couple of winch comps.
Al

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rusty bus

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 21, 2010

how much did you get charged to have the gears welded up? I managed to get an exploded view of the centre faxed to me from nissan, so i have an understanding of the internal parts now. Looks quite simple so i might give it a go myself if its going to cost too much. Might see what mr nissan wants for new replacement parts to just out of interest.

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rusty bus

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 27, 2010

Well seeing as i couldnt find a decent thread showing the internal workings of a factorynissan locker, i thought i'd take it upon myself to make one.

Axles removed....

By null at 2010-06-27

Engaging fork...

By null at 2010-06-27

By null at 2010-06-27

Diff centre removed and dog gear in the unlocked position...

By null at 2010-06-27

Dog gear in the locked position, you can see the edges rounded off on the back of the spider gear and on the dog gear...

By null at 2010-06-27

Dog gear removed to expose the locking section on the back of the spider gear...

By null at 2010-06-27

The damage to the edges of the dog gear...

By null at 2010-06-27

The diff centre split open to remove the damaged spider gear for inspection...

By null at 2010-06-27

The damaged locking section on the rear of the spider gear...

By null at 2010-06-27

Im going to order a new gear from nissan instead of trying to fix this one. Unfortunately my patrol is my only car, so i had to put it all back together as it was until i can order the part and it arrives. Trade price on the spider gear is 250 or something like that and the dog gear is 700!! So i think ill just repair the dog gear and replace the spider gear.

I also have an exploded view i got faxed to me from nissan, showing the rear diff with all the part numbers for the bits but its a bit crappy. Either way i will still scan it next time im over the girlfriends and put it up.

I hope this helps ppl who may be in the situation i was, not knowing or understanding exactly what craps itself in these diffs.

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albundy

· #5 · Jun 27, 2010

Mine looked pretty much the same as yours and I had them fixed. $275 NZ. He had them for about three days.
Al

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albundy

· #6 · Jun 27, 2010

Just watch that selector fork when putting it in, I broke that too once and had that repaired, very difficult as it is cast I think from memory.
Al

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bmcxox

· #7 · Jun 30, 2010

my problem stared when i couldn't turn my factory locker off an drove round till it startd making f###ckd up noises I bought an LSD off E-bay havnt fittd it yet might repair locker.

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