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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Yesterday I was checking the rear diff lock, not as the manual says, there seemed not to have a diff lock indicator on when I turn the diff lock switch on.

I started the engine for sure as it is vacuum operated and the vacuum tank is the same one used by a lot of other staff, such as power steering and brake.

And I shifted to Low 2 as well.

Didn't see the light....

The previous owner (probably you all know him...) says it works.

Maybe the indicator is not there? Anyone has the same issue please?
 

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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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The factory diff lock only has a few teeth, so can be slow to engage if the teeth aren't lined up. Jack up one rear wheel and rotate it by hand with the switch set to 'on'. See if that works.
 

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What dkril said is most likely. Other wise the solenoids may have crapped out.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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Might just be the switch contact inside the actuator on the rear diff is buggered. It moves with the shift fork arm and closes circuit once the diff is actually locked (have to be rolling) to light up the dash indicator. Diff can be locked but a buggered switch wont let the dash indicator light up.
Dash switch is linked with the speedo too so power wont pass to the solenoid coil that locks the diff if the vehicle speed is over 7kmh.
To check both solenoids are working pull the two hoses off it that go to the diff and check for suction on both nipples. One should suck when Off and the other when On. If only one is sucking the solenoids stuffed.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. I tried moving the car with lock on and no indicator was on. The question is, where on earth is the indicator?
 

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Nissan Safari
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also check the wires coming out of the actuator at the rear diff itself. This is were it works from. They may be broken.
 

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when i bought my patrol. lockers didn't work. replaced the solenoind with korean ones cuz original nissan were too expensive





then fixed a broken wire leading to the indicator. lockers worked after. but it took a long time before it would engage and disengage. decided to replace the vac hoses with silicone ones. now they work fine :)

 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
when i bought my patrol. lockers didn't work. replaced the solenoind with korean ones cuz original nissan were too expensive





then fixed a broken wire leading to the indicator. lockers worked after. but it took a long time before it would engage and disengage. decided to replace the vac hoses with silicone ones. now they work fine :)

Thanks mintoy,

really helpful pics and explanation.

Where is the indicator pls?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys,

I found where the problem is. The engage solenoid is faulty, no sucking when diff lock switch in on, while the disengage solenoids work fine.

When I bypass the engage solenoid, lock works and indicator is on.
 

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Good idea on the silicone hoses as the rubber ones to the rear diff suffer from the excess heat under the bonnet. Mine were replaced in June with new hose...it is now November and all of them are cracked. Guess I am going to get so,e silicone on the week end.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I believe that I have fixed it.

The engage solenoid is dodgy, that it wouldn't open the valve.

Before I torn them apart (they are expensive and solid!) , I test them using multimeter, both read 36ohm or so. therefore the circuit is OK.

Then I opened them and did a bit cleaning, swapped the engage and disengage valve rods and springs and now all works.

Both are sucking air in turn when diff lock was switched on and off. (If you don't want to turn your engine on and connect the valve to test, blow through some air to see if it is opened or closed.

Here is the diagram telling you how it works (my poor drawing skills):
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am relative free these days.

But still plenty of work to do. I fixed it last night at 10.
 

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always thought those solenoids weren't able to be pulled apart. I still have a few old ones hanging around. I will pull them apart and tinker as you have shown, may just get them working again. Thanks dude.
 

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That's the normal cause of failure is the solenoids. I got a set of mac solenoids on there now and faultless. Also faster. But I have an air leaker going in very soon.
 
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