Diff Lock

Hi there Tom,

Send me an email to bar.crew@internet.is and I'll try to send it to you.

Cheers, Ben

 

Its most likely the solenoid is just stuffed/stuck, they get like that from not being used, mines the same, it very common. From memory there is 4 wires, two pairs to operate two "different" solenoids(one unit two solenoids). The solenoids are normally closed, ie if no volts they are closed, 12V they are open.

When the switch is OFF, one of the pairs is active ie there should be 12V and open, and the other is off ie 0V and closed, this supplies vacuum to one side of the diff lock "holding" it in the off position.

You can check this by taking the pipes off that supply the diff.

When the switch ON, the other pair becomes active ie 12V and opens and the other goes to 0V and closes. This the supplies vacuum to the other side of the diff lock "holding" it in the ON position.

This is the bit that's not working because the ON solenoid is stuck and wont open. But check for 12V to confirm your electrical side of this is working properly.

I hope this helps. But basically there is only ever 12V to one wire, in each position (on/off). Figure out which of the 4 wires are the earths and the check for 12 V on the other two, in each switch position.

Then contact pneutech and get a new solenoid valve, the part number is on here somewhere. Search for diff lock problems and you'll find it.

Cheers

 

There's no positive/negative wires on them just "hot" and "cold" wires. Doesnt matter which way you wire them on the Mac solenoids as long as they are paired and the hoses are on the right way so the locker comes on when turned on etc

 

Thanks green ti, I think I understand the solenoids now, as I can work out going by what you say I must have a sticky solenoid, will check it out tomorrow.Thanks also Sudso I understand what you mean by hot & cold as how I understand the difflock is switched by the sensors in the ecu, ie speed sensor & 4wd sensor, am only new to all this electonics have had 3 hiluxs so when its in its in.
Thanks for the help Tom.

 

get rid of the elec solenoid and all your probs...go full vacuum

Hey mate you could spend the $300 odd on a new solenoid, or you could just dismiss the elec bits and convert the whole system to vacuum, with a 5 way valve.
I bought 2 soleniods (1 from wreckers/1 from nissan) and they both failed within months. So now i run the system full vac, and have not had a problem. And all it took was a $100 valve and some 4mm air hose plumber into the cabin...

 

Hey mate you could spend the $300 odd on a new solenoid, or you could just dismiss the elec bits and convert the whole system to vacuum, with a 5 way valve.
I bought 2 soleniods (1 from wreckers/1 from nissan) and they both failed within months. So now i run the system full vac, and have not had a problem. And all it took was a $100 valve and some 4mm air hose plumber into the cabin...

Hi just wondering if you have more info on the 5 way valve I think I will do this to mine strait away. If I can get a photo or a part number it would be appreciated
Cheers

 

Here is the GQ diagram hope this helps

 

What manual do you have?

Page PD14 in mine doesn't have that at all

 

factory lockr

from the gu manual

hope it helps

 

Again fellas...that wiring diagram looks like itll take a while to ....um....appreciate.....id still say get rid of the elec solenoid and use the valves connected to the booster....when my indicator light comes on its cos the lock is on....not just flashing and doing nothing

 

100 bucks for an air valve?
Or 5 bucks for a vac solenoid from a nissan pintara! Works very well.

 

Sorry if this comes up twice I am new to using forums but can I get some more info on the 5 way valve you have used and maybe a part number.
Cheers

 

Hi guys.
I installed the mac valve with relay but now my diff lock light stays on?
The diff lock work 100% now but the light just stays on the whole time?
Is their anything that I did wrong?
I disconnected the switch on the diff and the on off switch as well but it stays on?

Thanks guys

 

Nissan Patrol Y61 Diff lock indicator switch

Hi All and greetings from the UK


I have a Nissan Patrol Y61 GR 3.0 Auto LWB with an Old Man Emu suspension and lift.

I am having a real problem obtaining a Rear differential lock indicator switch (On its own without the whole diff lock as this is what Nissan want to supply here!)

The switch is screwed into the diff lock actuator on the rear axle.

I would be very grateful for any pointers to a supplier who may have one?

At the moment ive unplugged mine to stop the infernal beep sounding as the vehicle things the diff is engaged - which it isnt as Ive checked along with the diaphragm and the vacume etc.

Please dont forget to mention to any supplier that I need carriage for the part to the UK.

Thank you in advance for any help received.

 

Hi All and greetings from the UK


I have a Nissan Patrol Y61 GR 3.0 Auto LWB with an Old Man Emu suspension and lift.

I am having a real problem obtaining a Rear differential lock indicator switch (On its own without the whole diff lock as this is what Nissan want to supply here!)

The switch is screwed into the diff lock actuator on the rear axle.

I would be very grateful for any pointers to a supplier who may have one?

At the moment ive unplugged mine to stop the infernal beep sounding as the vehicle things the diff is engaged - which it isnt as Ive checked along with the diaphragm and the vacume etc.

Please dont forget to mention to any supplier that I need carriage for the part to the UK.

Thank you in advance for any help received.

I have a factory locker switch that mounts in centre dash if that is what you are chasing.

 

i use a mac valve for the diff lock , come 12v or 24 v , on , off switch.
not hooked into speed control , so found myself at highway speed , with the difflock still engaged,

 

I have a factory locker switch that mounts in centre dash if that is what you are chasing.

Thank you but NO!

The Differential lock indicator (sensor) switch is a microswitch I believe normally open that threads onto the difflock actuator on the rear axle it has a two core cable that connects into the loom behind the rear axle.

It looks like a large BOLT with a black covering and two wires coming away from it. Is in place with an O ring to seal the vacume preasure.

Thanks again
Regards
Neil

 

I probably have that too! I have just removed all the factory rear locker gear out of mine.

 

Old thread I know... my 02 TI GUIII rear locker isn't working, I've done the tests recommended in some threads and the factory solenoids are still working as they should with the switch and i've tested that at both the solenoids and the actuator at the diff. I did initially find the hose that activates the diff lock was disconnected at the metal fitting under the body about 30cm from the actuator. What should I check next? Could it be that that solenoids are just not providing enough vacuum?