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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yup, it happened. Water crossing resulted in fan flying to bits and putting holes in radiator.

Contributing factors.

-Possibly fatter alloy after market radiator.
-Missing splash guard skirt under wheel arch (main cause I think)

My questions are

•Should I replace the mechanical fan or go thermo fans, what would you do?

•Git any tips on what sort/brand of radiator to get.



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm assuming original fan yes.

Yes, I should add that to the list of contributing factors.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I had to replace my fan a couple of years ago, was replacing serpentine belt and noticed cracks on the edge of the fan body, bought one from nizzbits. Mine had been on since new when I bought it in 2000, so I will assume there is a lifetime to these things and I wonder how many are driving around with cracks in the fan and don't know.
Personally I would stick with a genuine fan.
My 2 cents worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Radiator came out pretty easily.

And apparently the previous owner completely bypassed the radiator, might plum it back to the radiator i think.


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that rubber skirt in the wheel well needs to be there , have a read of the ' aero things ' and ' heat management ' threads . unless your engine is producing serious torque and power the standard fan and radiator seems to be more than up to the task .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that rubber skirt in the wheel well needs to be there , have a read of the ' aero things ' and ' heat management ' threads . unless your engine is producing serious torque and power the standard fan and radiator seems to be more than up to the task .
Unfortunately the rubber skirt was damaged not long back and was next on the to do list, the replacement was already sitting at home I just wanted to use the proper stupid plastic clips....
 

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1988 Maverick TD42,
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A good thermo (spal) can pull about 400w of energy to move air. The mechanical fan can pull over 7000 (depending on clutch and fan type). There is simply no replacement for a mechanical fan and TD needs the highest airflow it can get.
Oldmav has made thermos work in the past, but it was all about his aero setup as I recall it.

I have had issues with the fan connecting with my radiator a few times. My solution was a strip of 10mm x 1.6mm flat bar looped into about a 300mm diameter circle. I then used stainless steel ties to secure it to the radiator. When I hit water and the fan blades bend forward, they hit the ring rather than the radiator.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Car bra is a simple fix to an expensive problem
True, I still have the 'car bra' I made for another 4by I had almost 40 years ago, fits any vehicle, but I think that fan was going to explode anywhere sometime, as I mentioned earlier while replacing serpentine belt I noticed a crack in the 20 year old fan boss, closer inspection revealed many, it wasn't going to last much longer.
 

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96 TD42 GQ2 wagon
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Yup, it happened. Water crossing resulted in fan flying to bits and putting holes in radiator.

Contributing factors.

-Possibly fatter alloy after market radiator.
-Missing splash guard skirt under wheel arch (main cause I think)

My questions are

•Should I replace the mechanical fan or go thermo fans, what would you do?

•Git any tips on what sort/brand of radiator to get.



View attachment 546203

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I have not crossed water than to the top of my tyres in my car or as the driver of any car for so many years now, this depth btw seems to create almost the perfect trough and bow wave to keep the front of the engine driest in common height 4wds, any time I needed to go much deeper I either went back or found another way through the scrub etc.

In the future this is probably going to change because one cannot get lucky with weather or other options always and I am getting older so less time to "do it again later"..who knows.

I was planning to tie up my fan..has anyone done this routinely? Is it one of those things that can go wrong at times as the fan hub say heats and might lock or stiffen too much? I planned to play in the garage some time with an occy strap but think real world experience would be much more valuable.

I have wondered why everyone with a clutch fan does not do it as a matter of course before entering water? (Assuming when in anger the pitfalls of doing it are actually low) but it seems rarer than it could be??

do you think it would have saved you or was the fan too stuffed already?
 

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I holed my radiator about 20 years ago like this. Having a new fan does not help because the fan blades flex frontwards as they engage with the water. In my case the fan blades were still intact afterwards.
The problem is simple. If the engine is cool and the fan hub oil has not engaged, then you are good. If the fan hub engages you wish you had put on the tarp in front!
I was waiting at the edge of the water for my mate to arrive. It was fairly hot and I had the engine idling and the aircon on. He took ages to arrive so the engine got hot enough to engage the fan hub.
BTW. I dont think you can tie up the fan. You cant slacken off the fan belt either as it also drives the water pump, so engine will overheat quickly.
So, if you have to wait a while before entering the water, turn off the engine, pop the bonnet and check the fan hub is free before driving in and if the water is deep put the tarp on the front.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I would never tie a fan, once again a simple strap on car bra solves it all.
 

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Ok thanks the trouble is you cannot make these things up only real world testing/experience can sort it out, yes a hot engine and a locked up fan is what worries me, I may just do the experiment in the garage sometime as best I can holding it back with my hand at different temperature profiles and report back the results for those interested. My car runs cool so my fan still looks like the day it was fitted 26 years ago, cracks would add more concern.

I feel I need to sort these things out at least in theory otherwise if/when it does go pear shaped and I come to a unplanned stop.

cheers
 

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Main problem with a car bra is if forward momentum slows or stops in a difficult crossing. That's how I busted my last fan and why I ended up putting a guard on the rad.

For most, stopping and waiting for the fan clutch to cool down is a solution.
 

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I've never had a fan chew a radiator.

Done neck deep water crossings (Nolan's when it used to be interesring) never had a problem..

The way you drop in and push you initial bow wave, the rpms, keeping the motor as low in the rpm but in the torque and tractor through gradually increasing your speed after drop in.

Obviously let it cool down before you do this.

Crossed the Jardine a bunch of times like this and it laps at and can be over bonnet on the northern side.

Over oiling the clutch and running the fan too close to the radiator (usually because of the core thickness of the radiator) seem to do it.

It's ironic because on TD having fan closer to rad makes them run hotter.
 

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I replaced my stock fan with the QUIKAZZ/UFI upgraded fan (they both look the same to me) and replaced my pwr radiator with a stock one.

My old stock fan was cracked everywhere and i had been through a bunch of deep crossings here and there so I imagine I was heading towards your situation.. My old pwr radiator was leaking and after a lot of reading I found it was completely unnecessary and a stock radiator with the plastic supports would do a better job.

You really shouldn't have a problem though if you're just plodding along in low range through water crossings.. No need to barrell into water crossings especially if only a foot or so deep because that's exactly how you can break something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update.

New Koyorad? brand radiator, OEM fan aftermarket viscous hub (Gone back to the old one becausevthe aftermaket one it is perma-on)

But that is only where things started. Developed some unusual noises that were belt and idle pulley related.....

Extra victims now include.

-Idle pulley
-AC clutch bearing
-Starter motor just this afternoon.

Hopefully the Alternator has escaped but somehow i doubt it.
 
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