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Every dog has his day
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What you’re suggesting sounds perfectly ok, I wouldn’t stress too much as plenty of GQs either don’t have a seperate alt earth at all, or a flimsy 8mm one to a captive in the passenger side inner guard, the alt has pretty good contact with the block through its pivot and locking bolt on the mounting bracket so I wouldn’t lose sleep over it.

On a side note I’m not a fan of earthing to nutserts, you don’t know if the back side was clean metal, and if it was it would likely have surface rust, and the contact point of dissimilar metals is a potential future issue. I prefer captives, or nut and bolt through cleaned bare metal. With mine, I have a 70mm2 earth to engine, from there 35mm2 back to body, but also, under car, short 35mm2 from captive under body to captive in chassis, then another from there to a bolt on back of gearbox. Seems to work well, starter spins it’s ring off, alt charges very well at over 14v, everybody happy 👍.
 

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Nice write up fester. I think you will find that with the way Marty sets up the governor on his pumps you wont need the AC idle up solenoid. I hardly notice any drop in revs when the AC kicks in. I dont have a hand throttle so have set mine up on a switch and adjusted the lever a bit to give me a high idle for when I am using the winch.
 

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2001 GU ST TD42t coil cab (gold)
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Discussion Starter #83
What you’re suggesting sounds perfectly ok, I wouldn’t stress too much as plenty of GQs either don’t have a seperate alt earth at all, or a flimsy 8mm one to a captive in the passenger side inner guard, the alt has pretty good contact with the block through its pivot and locking bolt on the mounting bracket so I wouldn’t lose sleep over it.

On a side note I’m not a fan of earthing to nutserts, you don’t know if the back side was clean metal, and if it was it would likely have surface rust, and the contact point of dissimilar metals is a potential future issue. I prefer captives, or nut and bolt through cleaned bare metal. With mine, I have a 70mm2 earth to engine, from there 35mm2 back to body, but also, under car, short 35mm2 from captive under body to captive in chassis, then another from there to a bolt on back of gearbox. Seems to work well, starter spins it’s ring off, alt charges very well at over 14v, everybody happy 👍.
Thanks Lee. When we were discussing that's what he sort of said. Reckons he has this sort of discussion semi often, reckons people argue that is must be earthed properly and he can't see why it doesn't earth suitably through the body of the alt. I'll run an external one just to help out seeing as it was there but like he says an earth is an earth, all ends up back at the same place. My main curiosity was why the hell did Nissan do it this way and could it somehow limit electrical interference. Seems no logical purpose.

There is that one 6mm captive nut on the lip of the battery tray but I figured a nice 8mm connection would be better. The zinc nutserts I use are generally much larger than most and have a decent flange so I was thinking the cleaned frontal contact area would be sufficient. Maybe the 6mm factory spot would be just as good or better??? I do intend to add a couple of connections underneath as I haven't bothered to date as I hadn't had any issues but lately a couple have been creeping in.

Funny you say about the starter. The other week another issue that crept in was my primer head was sucking air. Truck died, luckily about 50m out from the driveway. Anyway spent several minutes in stages pumping and cranking to try and get it going to get it back home to no avail and when mucking around in the engine bay I accidently touched the side of my hand to the lug on the original earth lead and actually burnt it pretty badly. Still got a scab 2 weeks later.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
So I mentioned previously and above about my primer head leaking. I was also mindful of recent discussions by GQShane and OldMav about the restriction the primer head poses. Also my new pump as you would expect from a performance pump came without the gauze filter in the inlet.

On a side note you read about heaps of guys having flow problems with that filter blocking up and the hassle of pulling the banjo and picking the filter out with a wire or something to clean it. Well interestingly my old pump when I pulled the banjo to look actually had the gauze filter in upside down and inserted into the bottom of the banjo fitting which to me seems a way better set up if you want to retain it. If it blocks simply pull the banjo, pop the filter out the bottom, clean and reinsert.

Anyway back to my primer head. Shane mentioned talks with OldMav about how restrictive it was and how he pulled the poppet valves out, ported the holes and removed the plunger cap and welded it up. Firstly one look at the tiny right angle hose tails on the head should tell you something.
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And the other side is no better.
Compare that to the dash 6 AN fittings I will be using .
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So my first task was to drill out the BSP inlet and outlet and tap it to suit the M12 x 1.25 Speedflow adaptors. (Just my chosen size, you could probably go up in BSP sizing but I like the ally washer seal of the metric adaptors and found it a good safe size to drill out to, in a tap that I had on hand.
I don't have a mill or know anyone well enough that has a good one that will do it for me for free but I do have a drill press and a couple of cheapish drill vises. So to line it up properly, I wind an old straight BSP fitting into the the hole and clamp that in the chuck then clamp the head into the vise. Trick here is wind the chuck down low enough for the drill when you set it up. Then without touching the vise you replace the BSP fitting with the drill bit and drill the correct size for the thread. I drilled all the way into the ports to their other side. The inlet into the middle of the threaded boss the filter screws onto and the outlet into the hole where the poppet valve is/was.
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Then i swapped the drill bit for the tap and wound the tap in by hand by rotating the chuck and winding the chuck down at the same time. This ensures you get the thread totally parallel with the bore which can be hard if you do it totally by hand. Not so bad if you are going tapered thread but with a metric thread which seals with an ally/copper washer you want it as straight as possible.
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If I was doing this into a steel component obviously it would be hard to turn by hand so I then either start it in the chuck by hand till it tight, then carefully undo it out of the chuck and attach the tap holder and finish by hand or use a round shaft tapping holder with removeable handle so I can hold that in the chuck. I then file finished the flats around the holes for a perfect seal.

So unfortunately I forgot to take pics at every stage as I got carried away with finishing it but next I popped the valves out which were shown in a pic by GQShane if you need to see them. Now they are really small inside.

If you look inside the bottom port in this picture, not only are the valves restrictive, this is the suction port for the primer which sucks the fuel out of the filter and as you can see this is about 10mm :) without the valve but the casting for the centre boss/threaded section cuts this pretty much in half. Also the outlet port side whilst not shrouded is a sharp right angle turn. Nothing flows smoothly through this thing. Even worse before I drilled the threaded holes out to 10.5mm, as you can see it just breaking through in the edge of the port below.
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So this is where I forgot to photo sorry but I ground away the bridge in the above left pic in a straight line down between each side of the holes and down to about that lower lip inside the poppet hole. I also unshrouded a bit around the back of the holes and blended the sides with a taper up to that top edge where the stamping is on both sides. I also ported away as much of that ledge in suction side and opened the hole out a bit towards the outside and either side of the centre boss and tried to blend in a smooth transition to allow flow. This is it from the other side.
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You can also get an idea of it in that pic above with the tap as I mocked that pic up after because I forgot to take the pic at the time.
After all that was all cleaned up I pressed up a little domed cap to seal off the top and welded it on.

The idea for all this was that I would be using the same dash 6 AN fittings and 3/8 push loc hose for the inlet to the pump and the outlet down into the same fittings on the pump. A 90 degree flowing elbow fitting into the filter as the hardline is right below it will be the biggest restriction at this point as the outlet of the housing would be a straight fitting and with a straight vertical fitting out of the pump it allows a long sweeping bend from filter to pump.

Does this make a difference who knows but I do recall @OldMav mentioning several times how restrictive the 10mm hardlines and all this is for the big power trucks out there and that 1/2" lines would be better and this is why the likes of the Carter pumps don't actually produce the full pressure at the IP. So I'm not converting to 1/2" lines etc as I'm not chasing 200 RWKW but hopefully I have reduced my restriction to as low as practical and this will be one of those small things to help driveability. In this case I had to do something with the primer anyway and my fuel lines were original and buggered so the soft hoses had to be replaced anyway as well. The AN Speedflow fitting are obviously a bit overkill and you could achieve similar with brass BSP fittings but I like the flexibility of them and the fact they always end up in the right spot.

Oh obviously without the primer plunger now I will be running a lift pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
So you may notice I don't have an installed pic of the primer/filter. There is a footnote to this little story.
(1) I had a small pinhole leak in the weld on the lid due to the dirty old ally of the primer (even though I cleaned it thoroughly) and it was really hot weather and I was as keen to head back to work to reweld it.
(2) I had been tossing up what if anything to do without the internal gauze filter in a brand new IP.

So researching told me the factory filters or aftermarket replacements are 12 micron and I know heaps of people add a secondary filter and/or use a CAV adaptor and use their filters. Now I'm not buying into arguments of pre or post filter but for me I don't see the point of a finer filter as a pre filter, end of point. I also don't like the engine bay layout with twin filter assemblies. AND IT WAS A REALLY HOT DAY FOR WELDING.

Anyway I had always thought the Fuel Manager kits were a bit expensive in the $200+ category it seems. (See where this is going). Anyway research confirmed they come in 5 and 2 micron and further investigation revealed my local diesel shop had them in basic non kit form eg no brackets, no hoses and no fittings and the price was $95.00 and they would fit whichever filter I wanted.

So I've ditched the idea of the factory filter assembly and swapped the fittings I bought to suit the Fuel Manager and bought one with the 5 micron filter and this will be my sole filter assembly. And at 3/8 NPT ports it looks like it will flow as well as a modified factory one straight out of the box.

So for now due to time and me not knowing what style of bracket I want to make it will just be mounted off the factory mount with an ally angle adaptor to hold it till I get more important stuff out of the way.
Generic filter pic inserted here for no real reason.
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