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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
After years of battling the rust in my NA TD42 GQ, I admitted defeat and started looking around for something to replace it with.

Decent TD42 GUs are still a bit out of my budget and I wasn't interested in a ZD30 so was considering dropping my GQ's silvertop+a turbo into a grenaded GU, but I had a bit of a logistics issue with my tiny garage having a ceiling too low to contemplate doing an engine swap at home.

Then I came across a 2001 ZD30 GUII ST wagon that had already been converted, but needed some a fair bit of TLC.
I went and checked it out last weekend, and brought it home a few days ago. The body is pretty good and it's been blue slipped with the silvertop so it's a good base to start from.

It was a professional conversion, but done to a budget and it shows.
It's running a Kowabunga 16G turbo on a chinabay high mount (that leaks badly) and a 3" straight through exhaust that was originally fitted to the ZD30 and "modified" to suit the TD42 - it hits the chassis hard in a couple of places and has wrecked the rear left shock.
I'm planning on keeping the turbo but fitting a DTS low mount manifold, plus some form of top mount I/C and adding a muffler to the exhaust when I modify it to fit better. My kids love the truck sound, my wife and I not so much...

The other immediate jobs are:
Fix the heater (core ordered)
A/C (will swap the compressor etc over from the GQ and get new hoses made)
Injector pump leaking badly
Suspension is completely shagged

There's lots of other issues that need attention, but rego is due in a couple of weeks so I need to sort out the important bits first.
I'll hang on to my GQ until the GU is ready to take over daily duties, but planning on it being off the road for a few weeks while I get it sorted. I've been trawling the forum for the last few days getting up to speed on the GUs and their quirks.

It looks half decent from the outside, but the exhaust leak is so bad it's covered the engine bay in soot :(
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GUIV
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The soot has turned the silvertop black!


Quite a project; will keep you busy :)

Good choice on another patrol too.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GUIV
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Ah...

A couple of blokes here have painted engine parts all sorts of weird and wonderful colours.

Not my thing, plain black and raw ally suits me fine :)
 

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That's a good basis for a big strong tourer, Festy. I think you are going to be busy for a while :cool:

Keep us posted, please. I'm always looking for new ideas.

Cheers

Alex
 

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nissan
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Consider buying a radius fabrications manifold will put it further forward ut probably has no heater because those crap manifolds make the dump pipe hit the hoses. You could also swap your suspension over to the gu from your gq

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Discussion Starter #7
Clearance doesn't seem to be an issue even with the POS ebay manifold, and from what I've read a DTS low mount shouldn't be any worse?
I think they used the TD42 crossmember for the conversion which would also explain why the crossmember bolts were loose...

The heater was connected after the conversion but has since been bypassed because of a leak, so I'm replacing the heater core now while I can afford to have the car off the road for a few days.

First repair was a little one - the positive battery terminal was on it's last legs and snapped when I remved it, so replaced with a solid brass one


This afternoon I started pulling out the dash to get to the heater box, slow progress because my Haynes manual hasn't arrived yet and also because I keep stopping to check out the non-standard wiring additions. So far I've found the aftermarket immobilizer (I only have one remote so need to investigate this), an aftermarket cruise control with a broken throttle cable, and a few random black control boxes.
Also lots of this sort of thing:


I need to pick up a T50 bit so I can pull the steering wheel, I don't think I can go much further until then.


I should be picking up my steel winch bar in the next week, the xrox bar is only a few months old but it's not my thing.

I'll be swapping some bits of my GQ's suspension over but replacing other bits. I have the heaviest rear springs in the GQ that I could get, but this time I'll go for something a little softer and add airbags. It looks like they've been previously fitted at some point because I found a pair of schrader valves near the tow bar.
Do GQ rear panhards clear a H260 pumpkin, or do I need a dogleg panhard?

With the tyres, I haven't decided whether or not I'll keep the 315s yet. They're new enough to still have the chalk lines on them, but a set of 285 A/Ts would probably be a better choice for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's a pic of the firewall clearance currently, there's a fair bit of room there.
 

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Y61=WIN
nissan
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Mate grab the factory ESM it's way better than the non nissan ones like Haynes. You can pilfer it off the internet links are in various posts here on the forum.
 

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It looks like they have bent the heater pipes probably why they broke should be pointing straight out. Dont think gq panhards fit gu wagons because if the larger bush on the chassis end and if its not adjustable it wont fit as gu has a wider diff

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the tips.

I've got the FSMs and it seems to be very light on details about the heater unless I'm looking in the wrong place - I found one diagram that shows the heater box in relation to the A/C and blower, and a small note saying that the instrument panel needs to be removed to get at it. Maybe it's covered in one of the supplements, I'll check through them tonight.

I'll be disappointed if the Haynes manual turns out to be not up to scratch though. I've always found them fantastic with my other cars, but then again I have no idea what they're like for "modern" cars like this with it's computers and electric gadgets and things :eek:

On the topic of electronics, the ECU was retained with the conversion. I know it still runs the glow plugs but not sure what else it's responsible for yet.
I only have got key with the car so I'll get a second one cut and find out if NATS is still operational, if it is I'll either have to get a second transponder programmed/cloned or look into disabling it and just rely on the aftermarket immobilizer.
@hz_350 - I'll double check if they've been bent, I just assumed they were meant to be like that!
The grommet around the pipes had been popped out and a bunch of wires run through behind it (all removed now) which might make them look more bent in that pic than they are?
If I do have a clearance issue I'll switch to a smaller diameter dump pipe. I've got a stack of 2.5" SS tube and bends left over from another project and the current 3" dump is nothing special.

I'm setting this up as a family tourer and have 4 school age kids so things like heaters, A/C and reasonably quiet exhausts are serious priorities. I'll weld 90* elbows onto the heater pipes if that's what it takes but failure is [ul]not[/ul] and option! :D
But there should be nothing anywhere near the heater pipes with a low mount manifold fitted?

I've got adjustable panhards and HD lower control arms, drag link and tie rod that I'd like to swap over from my GQ but hadn't considered the bush sizes might be different on the panhards. Something else I should read up on.
 

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Ive been thinking lately with our converted cars if the nats even still works the tds with nats had a big unit on the back of the pump i feel like a nirmal key will probably start them

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Discussion Starter #14
They are security Torx heads, and my set currently only goes up to T45 size as luck would have it. I'll pick up a T50 bit tomorrow so I can continue dismantling the dash.
 

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Is the manifold leak because of a crack or poor quality casting or just a gasket issue? Have been looking at these manifolds - appx $140 delivered...
Curious as to why you're looking at going to a DTS low mount, apart from the fact that the overall quality of casting will be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
At this stage I'm assuming the manifold face is warped, the leak seems to be from the gasket and in the 12 months since the conversion was done the gasket has already been replaced once before.

I could just skim the face and re-fit it but I want a low mount to reduce the heat on the bonnet and firewall, and to make intercooler fitment a bit easier.
The DTS/White manifolds seem to have a good reputation, and there's not much else available off the shelf in a low mount
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm glad I bought a decent Torx tool for the steering wheel bolts, there was plenty of loctite on them and they really didn't want to come out.

Once the air bag was out I marked the steering column shaft in line with the existing punch mark on the wheel before removing it so I can put it back on straight:


Then kept slogging away until the dash was out. I had a better look through the FSM the other day and found a decent diagram of how the dash comes out in one of the supplements, and even with that in hand it still took a while to work out the process but eventually I got it:


At this point I was starting to wonder if I'll remember how it all goes back together...

With the A/C being disconnected I saved a bit of effort by pulling out the A/C box which meant I could just slide the heater core out without removing the whole heater box


...and found the leak straight away:



This is the replacement core compared to the original one. The new one is a HC0050 which is almost the same - the screw holes aren't tapped, and the core is a little squarer profile which makes fitting it back in a bit tricky. I had to split the heater box to get the new core past the lip but it's a snug fit once it's in.


The flange is very soft, it didn't take much to tap the M4 threads

@hz_350 - you were right, the heater pipes are pretty bent! They don't appear to be fractured, but I didn't want to press my luck trying to straighten them.



This is the seal between the heater core and the pipe flanges - they were firmly attached to the pipes and appeared to be in ok condition so I just applied a smear of liquid gasket to the surface before reassembling


...now I just have to put it all back together :(


Today I found a decent size puddle under the car, looks like the steering pump is cactus. Yay, something else to fix before I can drive this thing...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The rear shocks were pretty average so I swapped them over for a new pair of Lovells that I've had lying around for a while.
The OME shocks might still be ok, but the bushes certainly aren't. I didn't damage them taking them off, that's how they were :eek:
And the exhaust has been rubbing pretty badly on the left hand one, I'll be fixing that when I fit the new manifold which should be here in a day or two.


I installed some cheapo LED panels in the interior lights, they make a huge difference


I also tested whether I needed a transponder key or not by disconnecting the key reader and the engine still started fine, so I can just get a second plain key cut and don't have to worry about NATS.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I just booked it in to have the fuel pump leak fixed, I'll be up for about $1100 providing it only needs new seals.
I wasn't expecting that :(
 
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