Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
5,807 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day all, I have an old agricultural spray wagon that we use for fire fighting around home. It has a leak in about the most inaccessible part of the tank. Short of sending a 4yo in to fix it I think my only option other than taking the whole tank off the chassis is to try to reach in and spray the area with something that will cover the

In this situation the inaccessibility is a real pain. There's a tube running through the tank through which the PTO shaft runs and a sump where the water pump pick up is. The leak is exactly in the hardest spot to see let alone reach.

Are there any products that could be used externally ? Or are there products that I could reach in and spray over the area?


· Registered
nissan patrol
2,137 Posts
I think without looking at it its anyones guess, but you could fibreglass over the hole and make it quite thick. When its dry use this as a plate to cover the split by drilling and screwing the plate/fibreglass patch back onto the what ever it is with a silicone gasket.

cheers Shane.

· Registered
1,585 Posts
You might be able to use epoxy with or without mat which will stick like ***** and should be thin enough to spray. The biggest problem will be cleaning up the repair area to ensure adequate adhesion if it is grotty.

nissan gq
4,617 Posts
Go down to the local fibreglass repair/specialist shop
A bitta mat,catalist,resin should do ya
Ruff the old surface up a bit first before repair,bitta emery paper or similar
IF its not a large hassle maybe get a quote to get it repaired,mite work out cheaper
Time,money,stuffin around ect

· Registered
Have owned most, MQ, MK, GQ/TB, GQ/TD, GU/ZD and now finally GU TD42Ti
3,298 Posts
MQ MAD is bang on

1) sand the surface clean with 80 grit
2) cut some matting to cover the cracked area (or hole?)

A couple (2) of layers of 6oz chopped strand matt will be strong enough to hold over 100KGs!! So you won't need more than that, one larger than the other.

3) mix up your resin and hardner as per instructions (pay attention to how hot it is, the hotter the less hardner you will need).

OBSERVE: Before mixing anything, make sure EVERYTHING is prepared before mixing hardner into that resin! Otherwise you will just have to mix more together, as it'll clot up on ya.

FYI: When it's starts getting thicker, i.e. like jelly, forget about putting more on, don't do it! you'll just end up sanding the lot of later and doing the job again... As with anything Prep is everything!

When you start applying resin, please note: The fibreglass must be wet/see through and have no bubbles
4) On the tank, coat an area the size of the largest piece with resin using a cheap paint brush, then put the smallest piece on over the hole. Add a bit of resin, but not too much, the less you use the better (as long as you get all the fibreglass wet).
5) Then apply the second layer over the smaller first layer. Make sure the fibreglass is all wet (see through) and no bubles.
6) NOW, let the curing take place. I like leaving it in the sun, and haven't had any problems with that (some say... blah blah blah you shouldn't do it... MEH, I've never had a problem)

When applied, it will need to cure for 24h before any sanding.

7) Once cured, give it a sand, getting rid of all the excess material, and make it smooth

Done right, this repair WILL be just as strong as if there was no hole!!! GUARANTEED!

I do a lot of fibreglass repairs, including my ski boat, my surf boards, eskis, even my MK canopy, and I'm just about to start a few water tanks to sit inside the fenders, in the body of the patrol (coz I have a shorty with limited space) :D

good luck with it :)
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.