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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had had enough today and decided to persist with getting my tow hitch out of the tow bar. It had felt pretty solid when I bought the Patrol, but had thought some gentle persausion would have loosened it. I had tried getting it out some time ago with no luck. I had been dousing it with Inox for some time, so I hoped it had penetrated.

I also finally got the tow ball off too and used the hole to put in a bow shackle and then double backed a snatch strap. Being doubled reduced the stretching though. I tethered it with a rope as I don't think the neighbor would appreciate a tow hitch through the window.

I gave a few light snatches first to no avail. So drove in 1L to put tension on it. This would help pull it as I smashed it with a hammer. Then I smashed the hell out of it, this broke my hammer, not the whole head off, just the smashing end, not the middle or nail pulling end which were still attached to the handle. It was a cheap hammer anyway and just proves there is a different in hammer quality.

So I grabbed my other better quality hammer and noticed it starting to move. Even after the pin hole has covered, and a few light snatches still didn't pull it out. A few more whacks and another pull and it was free.

Definately rust welded in and had to grind off the rust and give the tow bar hole a good wire brush to even get it in and out easily.

Now being ground back to bare metal I now have a quicker rust issue, so covered it in grease. I will have to quench it again when I have the chance.

The being said, does anyone have an Oxy/Acet kit and an oil bath?

All in all it was a lot of hard work but finally got it out and now have options again.
 

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I had virtually the same problem with my GQ, rust welded in. I put my pull lift on it and anchored it to a very big tree in our yard. Put a lot of pressure on it in low range and smashed it left and right with a sledge hammer, winch smash winch smash. Took me a couple of hours.
I had to grind mine to get the rust off also and didn't put any grease on it just some diluted phosphoric acid 10 to 1 which is a rust converter. Mine has been done over 5 years now and no problems as I tow a trailer regularly and keeps the rust at bay with the movement.
 

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Dont know if this applies in your case but different manufacturers use a slightly different profile box section for the tongue receiver & this can make them tight to fit unless you have the correct tongue in the bar towbar

For example some Toyota & Nissan towbars use a box section with rounded corners & Hayman Reece use a squarer corner box section so if you try to fit a a Hayman Reece tongue into a rounded corner Toyota or Nissan bar it will not go unless you flog it in with a hammer (not recommended as it is hard to remove)

Regards Don
 

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had the same thing when removing the hitch out of the bar to turn it over to allow for different height trailer.
fortunately i could get underneath the ute and bash it out. bugger all rust tho, just jammed up with dust. grease the hell out of it but also seal up the end of the box section so the hitch doesn't fill up with dust.
 

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Dont know if this applies in your case but different manufacturers use a slightly different profile box section for the tongue receiver & this can make them tight to fit unless you have the correct tongue in the bar towbar

For example some Toyota & Nissan towbars use a box section with rounded corners & Hayman Reece use a squarer corner box section so if you try to fit a a Hayman Reece tongue into a rounded corner Toyota or Nissan bar it will not go unless you flog it in with a hammer (not recommended as it is hard to remove)

Regards Don
ABSOLUTELY TRUE. read the original post yesterday and thought the same thing. you would be better to maybe go and buy another hitch.

I had this problem with one of mine and belted in teh sides of the hitch till each of the sides where slightly bent in and this made the hole thing smaller and it goes in but is a little temperamental. Buy another. With the grease, paint it mate and that will stop the rust without the mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, it's a genuine nissan bar, as I said I ground it down a bit and with the grease slips in and out without any fuss. Main thought of removing was so I could fit the recovery hitch one day and also perhaps a different hitch for 4WD towing, like something with more articulation over the STD 50mm ball.

With painting, MudRunner, I did think about it but I know that paint chips and rust will just ensue, plus would add a few micron to the thickness and make it difficult to get in and out. At the moment I only had the grease, and I use grease in my line of work to protect machine surfaces from rust. These surfaces are exposed to the environment all the time and some in some very corrosive (by the sea) places with no rust. But the painted aluminium with a corrosion preventive paint still corrodes. Mind you that grease is very thick aero grease, not the HT bearing grease I used. I might have to borrow some grease from work.

I don't mind too much about the mess, just more worried about sand and dirt sticking to the grease, and would need to degrease, wash and reapply the grease everytime I go on the beach, that could be a pain.

I noticed the hitch had a slight black surface and thought it was done by quenching as I have done this before, but Murraman, you reminded me about the acid, and this is what might have been done in the factory as I remember that metal can turn black from being dipped in acid. Does the metal in acid turn it black?
 

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Mine was new a year ago, and now has no paint on it. But being in and out all the time it has stayed loose ;)
 

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Can someone please explain the process of 'rust welding', never heard of it before, must be a new engineering practice ;)
 

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Am I missing something or did you try and pull it out by attaching a snatchy to it pulling it until it was well loaded and then parking it and wacking it with a hammer while the strap was still loaded up? You're lucky you didn't kill yourself.
 

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Am I missing something or did you try and pull it out by attaching a snatchy to it pulling it until it was well loaded and then parking it and wacking it with a hammer while the strap was still loaded up? You're lucky you didn't kill yourself.
Yeah, I thought it was a script for the new Mr Bean episode ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can someone please explain the process of 'rust welding', never heard of it before, must be a new engineering practice ;)
It's not a good practice. It's not something you can actively do, it is where two adjoining metal surfaces rust so much that they fuse together. not so bad if you can seperate the metal by pulling perpendicular to the surface or by peeling, but is hard to seperate by shearing (or pulling apart with forces in opposite directions parallel to the surface) for example pulling out the tow hitch.

As with the snatch, yes I did use a snatch but didn't drive hard and stop at max force applied. drive slowly forward and leaving the clutch to slip a little then park it. Believe me I had tried other ways with no luck. plus there would not have been more than 5cm of stretch. I was very careful and used a tether rope to restrain any wayward flying tow hitches. Also kept the rope short so it if it did let go it is likely to stay in the receiver. I was also very cautious as to where I stood. never went beyond the immediate rear of the car. Only got close enough to hit it with a hammer and never put any body part in the path that the hitch would travel. I never stepped over a strained strap either. In the end it was very slow to come out anyway, even with tension would not move unless hit, and had to give it one more little snatch before coming free.

I took every precaution necessary to ensure I was safe and made sure no one was in the area.
 

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this is just an idea and im not sure if it will work.

When the hitch is in reciever there is room for it to also slide foward, so is it plausable to back your truck up to a tree, park it in 4L with front hubs locked and hand brake up and even strapped to the tree or something, and put your jack against the tree (not hurting it at all) and jack the hitch into the reciever to break the fused section? then even with a rope, winch strap or a snatch strap just lightly drag it out as the join is already broken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Even with it half out (hitch pin hole not visible) It still couldn't be snatched out. I thought the same after I got it moving, but yeah, still wouldn't budge, had to bash it under tension until it was over 3/4 out.

But I didn't think of that, but I did try smashing it inwards with a hammer though (which didn't budge it also).
 

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fair enough, sounds like you did well to get it out, i take my pants off to you... i mean hat!
 

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Dont know if this applies in your case but different manufacturers use a slightly different profile box section for the tongue receiver & this can make them tight to fit unless you have the correct tongue in the bar towbar

For example some Toyota & Nissan towbars use a box section with rounded corners & Hayman Reece use a squarer corner box section so if you try to fit a a Hayman Reece tongue into a rounded corner Toyota or Nissan bar it will not go unless you flog it in with a hammer (not recommended as it is hard to remove)

Regards Don
This explains much...have a few different hitches.
 

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Yeah the phosphoric acid will turn it black, It may take 3 coats to do it but it will. Just make sure you dilute it 10 parts water 1 part acid.

Yeah, it's a genuine nissan bar, as I said I ground it down a bit and with the grease slips in and out without any fuss. Main thought of removing was so I could fit the recovery hitch one day and also perhaps a different hitch for 4WD towing, like something with more articulation over the STD 50mm ball.

With painting, MudRunner, I did think about it but I know that paint chips and rust will just ensue, plus would add a few micron to the thickness and make it difficult to get in and out. At the moment I only had the grease, and I use grease in my line of work to protect machine surfaces from rust. These surfaces are exposed to the environment all the time and some in some very corrosive (by the sea) places with no rust. But the painted aluminium with a corrosion preventive paint still corrodes. Mind you that grease is very thick aero grease, not the HT bearing grease I used. I might have to borrow some grease from work.

I don't mind too much about the mess, just more worried about sand and dirt sticking to the grease, and would need to degrease, wash and reapply the grease everytime I go on the beach, that could be a pain.

I noticed the hitch had a slight black surface and thought it was done by quenching as I have done this before, but Murraman, you reminded me about the acid, and this is what might have been done in the factory as I remember that metal can turn black from being dipped in acid. Does the metal in acid turn it black?
 

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Yeah soooo... one of the 100 jobs on my series 3 was getting the towbar out....

I first removed the pin and checked for a 2nd bolt or weld.... nothing.
I gave it a good reef. Nothing.
Gave it a kick... nothing.
Got the estwing and belted it. Nothing.
Soaked it in inox a few times over a 6 month period. Nothing.
Tried a few releasing agents. Nothing.
Towed 3.5 ton plus of slate 200km. Nothing.
Tried freezing it and hitting it with sledgehammer. Nothing.
So i took the towbar off, cut a flat face, put it on my 12ton press and..... nothing.
sat it in petrol overnight. Nothing.
Put it back on press and pressurized till it bypassed. Left it overnight. Nothing.

Took it to the truck shop day before yesterday. Figured they would have a 50t press and just pop it out..... well stuff me... they had a 60ton press.... monster of a thing. We set it up.... and you guessed it... nothing.

Blasted it with the oxy for ages with 60tons on it.... not a mm budged. Did however start to bent the main beam. So i left it there for 2 days with 60ton on it.... nothing.

Im now back at home with it ..... any ideas?
 

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Gouging torch Jacket . of some real gental skill's with a Gas Axe , you'll destroy the hitch it's self to get it out . but you might be able to save the bar .
Cut the hitch off and start the pain staking task of cutting the internal sections of 50mm RHS out .
lots of swearing , bashing and burns will follow .

Good luck .
 
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