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How's the paint and hull holding up on the tinny?
Your question made me go have a look when I got home to check as it made me curious, I never really paid much attention to the paint work before. I can see some bubbling starting to appear in certain spots, mainly on the surfaces that face up on the gunnels. The inside paint has that splattered black paint effect everywhere so it always looks clean or dirty depending how your brain works if you know what I mean haha. Hull is looking great, couple dings up near the back but it's meet a few rock bars and submerged trees at speed on most fishing trips as that's the areas I like to fish so not really surprised.

I really like this early hull design with the really step vee in the first half but it goes to an almost completely flat punt hull for the back half. Is the explorer hull similar?

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Your question made me go have a look when I got home to check as it made me curious, I never really paid much attention to the paint work before. I can see some bubbling starting to appear in certain spots, mainly on the surfaces that face up on the gunnels. The inside paint has that splattered black paint effect everywhere so it always looks clean or dirty depending how your brain works if you know what I mean haha. Hull is looking great, couple dings up near the back but it's meet a few rock bars and submerged trees at speed on most fishing trips as that's the areas I like to fish so not really surprised.

I really like this early hull design with the really step vee in the first half but it goes to an almost completely flat punt hull for the back half. Is the explorer hull similar?

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Mine is was more flat than that.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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I had a few scattered small corrosion issues in nooks and crannies on my 5.5 half cab, had a long discussion with @OldMav one day about it as he has many years of experience with boats, pontoons and jetties/wharves. It is written up here way back but I finished up sinking a stainless steel rod about a metre into the ground beside the driveway where the boat was parked and on a stainless cable I fitted a clamp that I would connect to the boat every time I parked it, I also added secure earths between hull and motor, never had an issue after that. I sanded back the effected areas and washed them with an acid wash, thoroughly rinsed off acid wash then coated with a 20% chromate solution which I got hold of from Peter, once that dried I matched the paint with a good automotive paint in primer and top coat, looked like new when finished.
 

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Interesting, I might just go back and read all that info as I'm now curious. The earths from the motor to hull, do you think this is still relevant with an outboard with no electrics other than the internal spark/ignition circuit.
 

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Interesting, I might just go back and read all that info as I'm now curious. The earths from the motor to hull, do you think this is still relevant with an outboard with no electrics other than the internal spark/ignition circuit.
I would think so, there should be an existing earth there, I added a much more substantial one, I also added extra sacrificial anodes to the hull.
 

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I don't have any earth's anywhere, I removed them all years ago when I rewired it (It never had any from the outboard to hull). Nothing in the boat uses the hull for an earth/negative return to battery, I ran twin core cable to every electrical device when I rewired it.
 

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I don't have any earth's anywhere, I removed them all years ago when I rewired it (It never had any from the outboard to hull). Nothing in the boat uses the hull for an earth/negative return to battery, I ran twin core cable to every electrical device when I rewired it.
No there should not be any earths to the hull for on board electrical equipment, everything should go back to the battery, same as what mine was, but that doesn't mean there is not a current pathway or leakage, all this is just to be on the safe side, earthing the boat to the stake when stored in driveway solved all my issues.
 

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Still trying to find that info about what was causing it and why, my system is sooo slow today. Taking minutes to load pages so I might not find it today, it's not just P4x4 i'm having issues with so I haven't bothered complaining about it.

My system can never have any current flow or leakage through the hull and back to the battery. Well unless I have a cable somewhere worn through touching the hull and also the same thing with another cable somewhere else and it flows between those to points. My outboard is earthed through the mounting bolts but only in a physical sense and not an electrical earth as I have zero connections from battery to outboard (no alternator, manual tilt/trim/start etc full pov pack edition). I'm just trying to work out what currents would be circulating through the hull to cause issues with paint/corrosion if nothing is connected to the hull? Maybe i'm missing something.... happens often haha. I have heard of dissimilar metals touching causing electrical currents overtime which might be happening with some of the screws/fixings i have secured to the aluminum hull in places, clutching at straws now!
 

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I can only tell you what worked for me after finding electrolosis on my boat after a couple of years, which I bought new and looked after impeccably. Leakage can occur for many reasons. As said I had a long discussion with Peter on it and acted on advice and observations.
 

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Don't get me wrong, I totally believe in what you're saying about the stake in the ground and the extra/bigger earth strap fixing your issues. Especially after it was recommended by Pete, It's just my sometimes frustrating nature of needing to know the exact details of everything and why/how stuff works. Even after I get said info I still feel the need to test it out myself to put my mind at ease. All good, just something else for me to add to my research list during the upcoming quarantine weeks.
 

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Electrolysis is a strange animal, can be caused by many things, dissimilar metals it the usual one, a piece of leftover fruit, the wrong paint, your trailer, even just water.
 

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We are not much different, I spent a lot of time researching leakage and reasons, many conflicting articles and opinions by 'experts' on what Peter was saying but it was all proven correct, as said 'leakage' can occur for many reasons.

Electrolysis is a strange animal, can be caused by many things, dissimilar metals it the usual one, a piece of leftover fruit, the wrong paint, your trailer, even just water.
A simple dropped sinker that found a hole.
 

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It is an interesting subject. I knew nought about it until a couple of years ago. Brother in law bought himself a new Princess V39 motor yacht. His pontoon was a part of his recently purchased six year old home.

So he was not happy with the existing pontoon electrics. He asks if I can change over the outlet to a style more suitable for his V39. Yeah no worries. The supply was also on a shared RCD. So I changed that back so it was stand alone.

All good and he is happy. New V39 is sitting nicely on the pontoon. About two months later he rings me and says the pontoon RCD is tripping. I told him it is probably an appliance on the boat. No he says in now way it could be the V39. Anyways I instructed him to isolate everything electrical. Then proceed to re energize one by one. As he hits one of the A/C units it trips the RCD. Bingo we have found it. Princess yachts come around and fix it......some how?

About eight months into ownership (and two months after it should have been slipped) the rear swim deck fails to work. Then steering fails. The brother in law used to be a commercial diver so he jumps in and has a look underwater. Both the stern drives are caked in electrolysis. He rings me to tell me and insinuates it must be coming from the jetty. Oh I get it!!!!!. I started doing my own investigating. I cannot find anything I have done wrong with the jetty. We also work out that this model boat does not have a galvanic isolator?

Any ways he engages an "expert" in the field. I am glad he did. He clears the shore power. The boat is still in the water.

A couple of weeks later it is slipped. Both stern drives are beyond repair. They find a damaged proximity sensor. This indicates when the swim deck is in the lowered position. The cable has broken away and sitting in the water still active. The sensor was attached to one of the sacrificial anodes. The anode wore away and then allowed the sensor to be damaged.

All good we can fix this they say. $ 85k later it is fixed. Sorry no warranty.

517324
 

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It is an interesting subject. I knew nought about it until a couple of years ago. Brother in law bought himself a new Princess V39 motor yacht. His pontoon was a part of his recently purchased six year old home.

So he was not happy with the existing pontoon electrics. He asks if I can change over the outlet to a style more suitable for his V39. Yeah no worries. The supply was also on a shared RCD. So I changed that back so it was stand alone.

All good and he is happy. New V39 is sitting nicely on the pontoon. About two months later he rings me and says the pontoon RCD is tripping. I told him it is probably an appliance on the boat. No he says in now way it could be the V39. Anyways I instructed him to isolate everything electrical. Then proceed to re energize one by one. As he hits one of the A/C units it trips the RCD. Bingo we have found it. Princess yachts come around and fix it......some how?

About eight months into ownership (and two months after it should have been slipped) the rear swim deck fails to work. Then steering fails. The brother in law used to be a commercial diver so he jumps in and has a look underwater. Both the stern drives are caked in electrolysis. He rings me to tell me and insinuates it must be coming from the jetty. Oh I get it!!!!!. I started doing my own investigating. I cannot find anything I have done wrong with the jetty. We also work out that this model boat does not have a galvanic isolator?

Any ways he engages an "expert" in the field. I am glad he did. He clears the shore power. The boat is still in the water.

A couple of weeks later it is slipped. Both stern drives are beyond repair. They find a damaged proximity sensor. This indicates when the swim deck is in the lowered position. The cable has broken away and sitting in the water still active. The sensor was attached to one of the sacrificial anodes. The anode wore away and then allowed the sensor to be damaged.

All good we can fix this they say. $ 85k later it is fixed. Sorry no warranty.

View attachment 517324
That looks like Runaway Bay Marina.


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Going to take the boat out tomorrow, Susan or Mary, don’t care.
 

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Going to take the boat out tomorrow, Susan or Mary, don’t care.
There's barra up the Susan near that holiday camp place, isn't there?

Foo
 

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Heading out in the kayak myself to Warren Reservoir. It's an S.A. Water storage site so trying to get at least one more session in there before no doubt it gets closed for time being.
 

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There's barra up the Susan near that holiday camp place, isn't there?

Foo
Dunno, I never catch anything. Have a good day though. I’m the original “You should have been here yesterday”.
 
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