fitting new lower trailing arms
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Mate, couple of things I learnt from doing mine:
1. Bolts and nuts connecting the old arms to your diff will be tighter than the proverbial nun's. I had a bastard of a time undoing mine, even with a large breaker bar. Only way I got them off in the end was by putting a trolley jack under the end of the breaker bar and jacking it up...
2. you will need to jack up the back of your car to take the load off the rear. Tyres dont need to be off the ground but you want it to not be under load.
3. If you have a long range tank you will need to remove it to get to the bloody nut where the trailing arm joins the chassis ><
4. If they are the same length do them individually. If longer do both at once. You may have issues bringing the diff housing far enough forward to get the pins in for the new arms. It can be a real bitch. best solution I found is wack a ratchet strap around your front diff housing and back to the rear, then ratchet the bastard forward until you can get the pins in.
Hope that helps
1. Bolts and nuts connecting the old arms to your diff will be tighter than the proverbial nun's. I had a bastard of a time undoing mine, even with a large breaker bar. Only way I got them off in the end was by putting a trolley jack under the end of the breaker bar and jacking it up...
2. you will need to jack up the back of your car to take the load off the rear. Tyres dont need to be off the ground but you want it to not be under load.
3. If you have a long range tank you will need to remove it to get to the bloody nut where the trailing arm joins the chassis ><
4. If they are the same length do them individually. If longer do both at once. You may have issues bringing the diff housing far enough forward to get the pins in for the new arms. It can be a real bitch. best solution I found is wack a ratchet strap around your front diff housing and back to the rear, then ratchet the bastard forward until you can get the pins in.
Hope that helps
I just unbolted mine and swapped one at a time. Though both standard length. If standard length no need tk take weight off back end or anything like that. Just have handbrake on and crack all nuts before removing them. Don't do any of the bolts up until all fitted them shake the bajesus out ofthe back end will settle the bushes into a neutral position then do em all up real tight.
Btw the bolts as said will be tighter than a fishes arse hole out of water. Good luck
Btw the bolts as said will be tighter than a fishes arse hole out of water. Good luck
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I have done a couple of sets now on GQ and GU utes, didn't find them hard to do at all, nuts were as tight as you would expect, just use a long braker bar and a shorter one and smack the shorter on with a hammer, the ones I have done have been +16mm
I also so found use the longer braker bar and get it in the right position and lay under the car long ways and give it a good kick with the bottom of your foot works a treat too, and I don't jack it up at all, that way you can use the wheel to roll the diff forward or backwards as needed, just chock front wheels and have hand brake of and out of gear, also easier to do one side at a time I found
I also so found use the longer braker bar and get it in the right position and lay under the car long ways and give it a good kick with the bottom of your foot works a treat too, and I don't jack it up at all, that way you can use the wheel to roll the diff forward or backwards as needed, just chock front wheels and have hand brake of and out of gear, also easier to do one side at a time I found
thats pretty much how I did mine when I went from +15mm back to standard
I'd do one at a time and make sure you chock both the back wheels too. I stupidly removed both when doing my lift on a hoist and the rear wheels rolled back slightly and the tailshaft popped out. I was under the car too. Got out pretty quick but was very lucky.
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