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From Alaska to Argentina to Africa in a Patrol GU/Y61

147K views 339 replies 71 participants last post by  globatrol 
#1 ·
Hi everybody!

I have posted a few pics here on the forum earlier, but so far no travel stories from the Americas. As I've used this forum for inspiration and advice when planning this trip, I would like to try to give a little bit back in form of stories and pics from the journey from the US east coast to Alaska, and the long way south to Tierra del Fuego on the southernmost tip of Argentina.

We are now in Guatemala, but I'll start the blog from Pico de Orizaba in Mexico. Older blog posts can be found on our pages unurban (in english). We will of course try to answer questions (if any...), but it could take some time before we reply.

So! Here it is..
E&M
 
#28 ·
Tikal, Guatemala



From Antigua we wanted to travel north via Cobán to Lanquin before taking road nr. 11 north to Flores. Then we heard that Cobán and the department of Alta Verapaz region was under “State of Siege” since mid of December when the army moved in to help the police fighting the Zetas, a Mexican drug cartel. Reading the US embassy’s advice about Guatemala we should probably not be in Guatemala at all. We wrote some emails to the Norwegian embassy in Guatemala City and they told us to that robberies happened quite often in the most popular tourist destinations so look after your valuables. Something we learned our self a Saturday night in Antigua when a friend’s purse got stolen in a restaurant. When we asked the Tourist Police they said Cobán was safe, so we decided to drive the way we had planned to go.

We left Antigua in the morning, and we wanted to drive a road that did not take us through Guatemala City. Driving into the city once was enough. So we took some back roads from Antigua and north to Salamá.



When we came to Rio Grande O Motagua we found that the bridge had been washed away so for the first time on this trip we actually had to drive across a river and not just doing it for fun (The road out past Petersville in Alaska doesn’t count as that whole drive was for fun..).



Since the bridge had been gone for a while it was kind of a “road” where the cars and motorbikes crossed. No problems. It was a really nice drive in these valleys north to Salamá. From Salamá we were back on the “highhway” to Cobán. Took a couple of wrong turns in Cobán, but found our way out of the city at around 17.45, we were pushing to get to Lanquin since we did not really wanted to spend a night in Cobán. And that was good since we later this evening learned from some other travelers that it is actually a 6 o’clock curfew in town…

Spent a nice and quiet night in a hotel’s parking lot in Lanquin. Next day we packed up and drove to Semuc Champey witch is one of the attractions in the area.



It was just a totally amazing place with turquoise water in the jungle. It was great to jump in and swim around in the different pools.



Cahabòn River is flowing down the valley and then the rivers runs into a natural limestone tunnel for 300 meters. On top of the tunnel water flows out of the sides of the valley and forms the different pools with the turquoise water. Amazing place to spend a sunny day.



Second and third night in Laquin we spent at Zephyr, a true backpacker place, and they had a spot where we could park our car and put up the tent. So we joined in for happy hour and stone oven pizzas :)

Last afternoon in Lanquin we looked around in the Lanquin Cave where there was no need for a guide and we could walk around by ourselves. At sunset we and a few other travelers were sitting in the entrance to the cave as the bats were flying out to look for their dinner. I had never been so close to so many bats before and I was truly impressed about their navigations skills as not a single bat hit us as they were whizzing by our heads.



After some nice days in Lanquin area it was time to head north to one of the major tourist attraction in Guatemala, the Maya Ruins in Tikal.

E&M
 
#34 ·
Tikal, Guatemala



The Maya ruins of Tikal is one of those places you just can’t miss. We drove north from Lanquin along a narrow and winding road trying to cut short to the highway north to El Petén area. It was pouring rain. We hadn’t given much thought to the fact that it was Saturday, but when we got closer to the first village we understood that something was going on. There were heaps of people walking along the road, and they were all going in the same direction. Market day! And the main road through the village was closed… After detours and detours from the detour, we finally managed to get back on the main road on the other side of the village. Now driving against the flow of people. It would probably have been both fun and interesting to see what you could find on a market in a small village up in the Guatemalan mountains, but we had a long way to drive this day and the roads were really slippery from all the rain.



As you drive down from the mountains going further north, the landscape changes into more and more farmland. It has probably been dense jungle at one point, but now it all seems to be banana production. On the road north (Highway 11) we also got to try a nice little river crossing (this time on a ferry…).



The closest bigger town to Tikal is Flores/Santa Elena, and we stopped there to fill up with food and fuel. From here the roads in to Tikal are paved and pretty good. But with some quite entertaining road signs….



We camped behind the restaurant Jaguar Inn that is located just next to the Tikal ruins. We spent a good five hours to explore the old Maya city, and this is a magical place. Several of the temples are well restored, and the view from the highest pyramid is nothing less than spectacular! The archeologists think that there could have been as many as 115,000 people living here, and the city must have been a majestic sight in the jungle with all its temples painted bright red.







Back on the parking lot we ran into Judith and Christof in their Land Rover Defender 110, and they camped next to us the following night. It is always fun to catch up with other travellers, and we were discussing ruins and jungle roads until quite late….

E&M
 
#35 ·
El Mirador?



When we drove through the town of Flores on our way up to Tikal we noticed a road sign saying “El Mirador: 145 kilometers”. This triggered our curiosity. El Mirador is one of the biggest Maya ruins out there, and they are not yet excavated and restored. According to all the guide books the only way to get there is a five days arduous trek through the jungle with mules or, for the people with fat travel budgets, a flight in with a helicopter. But a road sign saying “El Mirador: 145 kilometers”??? We just had to drive up there to have a look…

In Tikal we had met up with Christof and Judith in their Land Rover 110, and after a nice dinner at Jaguar Inn they were in on the plan! So the next morning we drove around the Lago de Petèn Itzá lake on the north side, and headed north towards a village named Carmelita, which is where the treks start from. The road up is rough, but not difficult.
When we got there it was getting late, and we asked around for a place to stay. Jack jumped out of nowhere and told us this was a friendly place and that we could camp pretty much everywhere we wanted. So we decided to camp just next to the air strip in the middle of “town”.



Jack turned out to be from Africa, but now living in Guatemala working as a tour guide. He had just transported a group of people up here for a trek in to El Mirador, and he told us that driving in could not be done. And we had heard the same thing from the military check point a few kilometers down the road. Not promising… The least promising detail was perhaps that El Mirador was now a National Park, and making new roads is strictly forbidden. Cra#! Now what?

The next morning Jack came over and he had had a chat with some locals that mentioned a few other possibilities for driving in the area. Jack didn’t have a 4x4 truck (make a note of that for the next post…) so he was interested in joining us if we wanted to check out some local 4x4ing. And there are ruins up here that are not on the maps! One is supposed to have a fantastic location in a lake, but would require a chainsaw. We saved that one for the next time… And then went for another road going out to a different ruin via a jungle lake. We had already decided to drive a bit back south to try another “missing road” that would take us through the jungle and back to Tikal from the north, so we didn’t want to spend the whole day looking for these ruins. But after two and a half hour chopping our way through the jungle, we were exactly half way by the lake, and realized that we wouldn’t make to these ruins and back the same day.











We turned around. Going back the same road took us about half an hour as all the trees were cleared away and we knew the mud holes.



It is possible we were driving kind of fast on our way back out. We wondered for a long time what this frog’s last thoughts could have been... (sorry for the graphic pic (but it didn’t suffer, as it was most certain instantly fried after landing on the hood...)) :)
Back in Carmelita we had a break and then started driving south to some Maya ruins called El Zotz. Jack had some stuff to do in Carmelita, but told us he would try to drive in to El Zots a later to check out the place. The road in was a lot tougher than we expected, and the 30 minutes that the military check point guys told us it should take, was suddenly more like two hours. On the way in we drove through quite a few big mud holes and had to clear trees laying across the road.



At El Zotz “park” there is basic camping facilities even including cold showers. And if you ever decide to go there, remember to keep driving past the first group of houses, and up a small hill to the left. The road ends there in a big “parking lot”. Only minutes after we parked our vehicles we saw in the sky why the Mayan called this place El Zots, meaning “bat”. When the sun goes down millions of bats fly out of nearby caves and fly over the temples. An amazing sight!



We did of course ask the guys working in the park if it was possible to keep driving through the jungle to Uaxactun north of Tikal, but they all told us that this would not be possible. Hmm… Would we have to turn around a second time? We postponed the decision to the next morning. And where the he## was Jack…?

E&M
 
#38 ·
El Zots and a jungle road

After breakfast the next morning we went to look for the El Zotz ruins. This site is still unexcavated, and all the ruins are in the jungle just as they were when they were found. Here we could actually climb to the top of the ruins by the help of lianas and roots. Fascinating! From the top of the highest ruin we could see the highest pyramid of the Tikal ruins 25 kilometers away (in a straight line).







Back in camp we were discussing what could have had happened to Jack as he never showed up the last evening. We concluded that something had come up, and that he never left Carmelita. And IF he had tried to drive in to the ruins, he would definitely have come across the mud holes, and turned around. After all he didn’t have 4x4 on his pick-up truck…

We packed up and decided that we should take a look at the road continuing further into the jungle. This morning we had talked to a guy that told us that there was some kind of a road, but he thought it only would be passable on a motorbike. Seeing is believing...







The first few kilometers weren’t as bad as we had been told. Only smaller trees across the road, and the mud holes were passable. The Land Rover was in front as it would be a lot harder for him to pass a mud hole after us (with 37s), not to mention that we are about 1000 kilograms heavier to pull out if we would get stuck.





Some smaller trees and brush to get through, but most stops took only a couple of minutes. We were about 20 kilometers in when we had our first little setback. A huge tree across the road, and it was just about to get dark. We had different info on how far this drive should be, ranging from 20 to 35 kilometers. We were of course hoping for the first, so potentially it could be as little as a couple of kilometers left. However, we had some very inaccurate maps on our GPS, and they indicated at least 10 Ks more.

After assessing the situation we saw that it could be possible to clear some smaller trees and moving a big log to get under the big fallen tree on the “higher side”. After some sawing and axing, we attached the winch to the log on the ground, and pulled the whole thing away from our path by the help of a pulley anchored to another big tree some 10 meters past the obstacle. When the road was cleared after about an hour work, we could just pass under the fallen tree. And if you come the same way later this season, you can get through if your vehicle is not higher than 2 meters 54 cm. NOT 2 meters 56!



By now it was pitch black (camp pic above is from next morning), and we continued driving for another kilometer or so before we ran into the next tree across the road. This wasn’t very big, but we were too tired and too hungry to start on that one. We camped in the middle of the “road” being pretty sure nobody would come driving through this night (as nobody had been driving through here for quite some time..). After dinner we popped the roof top tents and climbed in for a good nights sleep.

E&M
 
#40 ·
Through to Uaxactun!



Coffee never tastes as good as it does in the forest or jungle, probably because of all the insects and stuff that fall into the pot when brewing. The tree that had stopped us the night before was gone in less than 15 minutes, and we were again ready for the road to Uaxactun. Then something funny happened. There was a weak sound of an engine growing stronger and stronger, and we all stopped doing what we were doing and waited for what was to come. Out of the jungle came a local guy on a motor bike and I would definitely say that was the most surprised look on a face I ever saw. But after a few seconds of mild shock he gave us a big smile, and when we explained what we were doing there and asked if we were on the right way he just started laughing and laughing. Eventually we got around to ask what he was up to in the middle of the jungle, and he explained that he was cutting certain kind of leafs that was exported to Canada for use in flower decorations. No wonder so many of the locals down here think of North America as a strange and exotic place….

After some small talk he hid his bike in some bushes and disappeared into the jungle, and we got back into our vehicles and started towards Uaxactun. The flower decoration guy told us it was still about 15 kilometers to go, and that there was another huge tree in the road that we couldn’t get past. We, of course, wanted to “take a look”…



And there it was. Definitely a bit of work without a chainsaw, which we didn’t have. And this tree had a nasty twist and tension on it that added a little bit of excitement to the cutting.



In the end we had cut all the branches but one, and that one wouldn’t let go without a fight. Even if the trunk was cut all the way through, the weight of the upper part of the tree was so heavy that we couldn’t haul it away using a strap attached to the Land Rover. We set up the pulley again to change the direction of the pull and used the winch. After almost two hours the road was cleared enough to get through.

The last section was more or less brush and lianas, and we didn’t have many problems negotiating our way through these. However, a liana must have missed our attention, as Judith and Christof got some damages to their roof top tent mounted on the front of their roof rack. 10 kilometers later we saw the first signs of car tracks, a few buildings, and then a road sign saying “Rio Azul”!?! (this could be the “back road” up to El Mirador…), before ending up on the airstrip in Uaxactun! We were through!





After the high fives and an ice cream, we drove over to the Uaxactun ruins for a look, and these were really amazing. Hardly any restoration, but they are remarkably well preserved. In here were also a couple of buildings that were quite different from any other sites we have seen so far on our way through the Maya world.



We will absolutely recommend driving up to Uaxactun from Tikal if you are in this area (or through the jungle if you have a good 4x4 (and a friend also with a good 4x4…)). Three hours later we were back in Tikal, and the road from Uaxactun comes out through the site of the ruins. The guard asked if we had a permit for driving up to Uaxactun, so we showed him the ticket to El Zotz. He needed a couple of minutes… But in the end all was fine, and after checking that we hadn’t brought with us any animals or rare plants (fortunately he overlooked all the lianas hanging from our roof racks …) he waved us through. From Tikal we drove straight down to a campground in El Remate (By Lago Peten Itza) for a beer and a shower! A wonderful little detour indeed!



Oh! I almost forgot about Jack. Back in El Remate we checked our email, and we learned that Jack HAD driven in towards El Zots later that same day. He found the big mud hole… And got stuck… For two days! He told us he had learned probably the most important lesson in 4x4ing: Make sure you have 4x4!

E&M
 
#43 ·
Guatemala to Belize and the Caribbean

Leaving Guatemala the immigration women told us that we had to pay a departure fee of 20 Q each (2.5 USD). We told the women behind the counter that we paid 10 Q each for the tourist card when we entered the country, but then she just replayed that that was at a different border crossing and now we had to pay for this crossing. To be honest we did not really know all about the different fees we have to pay at the different crossings, we have just read reports from other travellers. From what we have read we paid the right amount crossing into Guatemala, but we have never read anything about departure fee. After discussing back and forth with the immigration women for a while we decided to pay her so we could actually leave Guatemala. After giving her the money and she put it away, we asked for the recite.. She just looked at us as if we were stupid, and then she asked us why we needed it. So after another discussion she finally wrote us one witch is probably not a very official one and probably not worth the paper it is written on. I guess the money went straight into her pocket or maybe the immigration officers share the money they charge the tourists in the end of the day…

The immigration woman told us that at the Melchor de Mencos border crossing going into Guatemala you do not have to pay for the tourist cards. We will see what she tells us when we will cross into Guatemala again in the few week’s time. Other travellers have told us that they did not have to pay anything for the tourist cards, others again had been charged 20 Q per person, but when they pretended that it was 20 Q for two people and paid just that it was ok too…. Maybe we have to practice our Spanish and see if the official Guatemalan pages say anything about the fees we have to pay when we enter and leave their country. It is not that it is a lot of money it is just annoying that officials use their posission to enrich themselves.



Aduana (costums) in Guatemala was no problem, and our vehicle permit was multiple entries for 90 days. The costumes officer wrote on some papers, took our original permit that he would keep in a folder until our return and we got a new piece of paper.



The border crossing into Belize was no problem and the car was stamped into Espen’s passport. A few hundred meters after the border was a small house where we had to buy liability insurance for Belize witch is mandatory. The insurance you buy is per week and we paid 23 USD for two weeks.

After more than three months in Mexico and Guatemala it was kind of strange to cross the border into Belize and read signs in English and having no problem understanding the locals when they talk to us. As soon as you cross the border you can see that you are in another country because of the differences in the building style, the colorful houses, and the people. Belize has the largest ethnic diversity that I have ever seen in one country. The largest ethnical group is creoles, descendants of African slaves and British pirates, one third of the population is mestizos, 10 % is Mayan people, and then there is the Garífuna and other small ethnic groups from Europe, North American and China.



Our old travel companions in Valley and Lotti had met up again on Yucatan and when we got to Belize we found them in ****scomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. It was great to see them again and the first evening was spent updating each other on what the different parties had been up to since we travelled in different directions 6 weeks earlier. ****scomb is sometimes also referred to as the Jaguar Reserve, but I will still call it ****scomb since we did not see any Jaguars.



Then it was time to say hallo to the Caribbean for Espen and me. There is no better place to get the Caribbean feeling than in the Garífuna fishing village Hopkins. The village stretches for a mile or two along the coast and has 1800 inhabitants. We camped on the beach for BZ$ 10 (US$ 5) for the two of us. It was great to be on the beach again. Last time Espen and I camped on a beach was at Maruata Beach in mid-December.



Saturday evening we spoiled our self to a four course dinner at Chef Rob´s Gourmet Café. The food was incredible and the fish tasted even better with a cold white wine to accompany it.



Before leaving Hopkins we stopped by the local bakery to buy some fresh bread and muffins.



A bit further south along the coast from Hopkins is Placencia that lies at the southern tip of a long narrow, sandy peninsula. Placencia did not have the same feeling as Hopkins even if it is nice. There were more big houses and Americans or other foreigners owning properties here. It was enough of small cozy resorts and hotels, but nowhere to camp. After asking around in Placencia “city” center and finding nothing we drove further and further out and found Seakunga. The friendly owner said it was ok to camp in their parking lot and we got a place that was just our style. It did not take us long to find the beach, bringing our books and having one relaxing afternoon in the hammocks.



Then the cold beer in the bar was calling out to us. The bar was up some stairs and had sand floor. The owner told us that it was no point fighting the sand on the floor all the time, it was better to make the floor into an extension of the beach…
After some relaxing days on the beach it was time to see some more of the Belize and next stop was the Cayo district in the west.

E&M
 
#46 ·
Good on ya Globetrotter... I'm so jealous of you guys,
please keep posting your trip. It is awesome!!!!
Next time give me a call, I also can speak spanish, so might help...

Cheers,
 
#47 ·
Belize - Cayo district


Our timing for Belize was good, we got there in time for the orange harvest. Driving the Hummingbird Highway we drove through orange orchard after orange orchard and trucks were driving fully loaded with oranges to the factories where they made orange juice. In one of these orchards the German, Swiss and Norwegian caravan saw a white Swiss Land Rover Defender, the drivers were out taking photos of the orange trees. The caravan stopped and we had a nice chat with Jolanda and Marco (www.lavidapura.ch). They are also on their way to Argentina. Since they were also heading to the Cayo district this day they joined our caravan.

In the Cayo district we drove past several Mennonites farms and horse and carriages transporting people and their harvest. It was a slight difference between their transportation and our Patrol. We took off from the Chiquibul Road and on to an even smaller dirt road towards Barton Creek Outpost were we planned to spend a couple of nights. Lotti was having a tough time on the rough road, but she did well when she was going slow.

Short before the Outpost we had to cross a river, and even Lotti made it with style!

The four overland vehicles set up camp at the parking area at Barton Creek Outpost surrounded by orange trees. Our host told us to pick as many as we wanted and use their mechanic press to make our own fresh orange juice.

It is the best orange juice we had so far on this trip…
From Barton Creek we had an early start and did a full day of sightseeing to the Maya ruins at Caracol with several stops along the way. Lotti was left behind and Isabelle and Franc got a lift with the other vehicles. Previously there had been some problems with robberies along the road to Caracol so now tourist could drive behind a ranger car in a convoy from Douglas de Silva to Caracol. The convoy was leaving at 09.30. We showed up a bit too early so we had just enough time to make a detour to Rio Frio Cave.

It was an amazing and huge cave with a small river flowing through it and along the river was even a small beach. Standing in the middle of the cave, you could look out at the entrance on each side of the mountain. Then it was time to join the ranger caravan. Arriving in Caracol we were discussing if there was actually a need to be escorted by the rangers since they were driving at a speed that none of the tourist cars could, or at least not would, keep up with. After a while they were gone and we saw them again at the archeological site. On the way back all the organized tour groups left before the rangers, and we decided to do the same.

At Caracols peak between 650 – 700 AD it is assumed that 150,000 people lived in the city and so far 36,000 structures have been marked. Today tourists can visit some of the main structures, but compared to the size of the city it is not so much we were able to see as most of the city is still covered in jungle.

Caana – Sky Palace is the tallest building in Caracol with 42 meters and it is still the highest building in Belize….

On the way back we stopped to cool down in the Río On Pools witch was an excellent end to a great day.

Then it was time to say goodbye to our friends again. Lotti, Vally and the Land Rover was all heading to Guatemala within a few days and we were on our way to Cancun to meet some family that was coming over from Norway for a warm winter holiday.
E&M
 
#50 ·
Honestly I dont think I've seen a better trip report on the forum..


From this weather

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to this


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to this





ending with

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Im insanely jealous of your trip! I only dream of something like that.
 
#53 ·
Family time on Yucatan, Mexico



The flight landed on schedule and our family got through the crowd of taxi drivers eagerly waiting by the arrivals exit. A small Dodge (with some suspicious Kia logos here and there) was collected from Hertz across the street, and off we went into the Mexican night. Around nine PM we drove into the parking lot at Acamaya Reef just south of Cancun. My younger brother with wife and two kids checked in to a small cabaña, my father got our roof top tent, and Malin and I pitched our mountain tent down on the beach.

It was great to wake up the next morning and walk 30 meters (100 ft) for a morning swim, especially for the folks coming over from Norway where the temperatures are still around 0 degrees C (32 F). Stayed on the beach for the full day (trying the get the other Norwegians acclimatized..), and then drove south the next day to find the house we rented over the internet. Exiting!

The road going south from Cancun is pretty boring. Fortunately we were lucky enough to have a few situations to break up the monotony… My brother in the rental car got pulled over by two cops on motorbikes that wanted to give him a ticket for driving on red at a light. We saw what happened in the rear view mirror, and I got out and ran back to explain to the guys that dollars was out of the question. They gave up after a little while when they realized that this wasn’t going to be easy money. It is kind of funny that they don’t seem to be interested in giving you a “proper” ticket at all. Could this be too much work for them, or what is the deal? Well, anyway, if you guys ever go to Mexico, please don’t have a twenty “ready”. This just makes the problem with corrupt police worse. It is actually really easy, just tell them “NO”! :) If you haven’t done anything wrong, that is….
We also had a flat on the rental car on our way south, but I guess this hardly qualifies for any excitement. At least we finally got to test out our new tire repair kit. First flat we’ve had in about 90 000 kilometers! And it wasn’t even on our car…



In Mahahual, almost at the border to Belize, we were approaching our rented home for the next 10 days. There was definitely some excitement in the air as we drove south along the coast from Mahahual. The house should be exactly 8,5 kilometers out of town. It looked promising. And we hit bull’s eye! “Casa del Cielo de las Estrellas” was fantastic!!







Home

During our stay we had some trips into town for supplies and some restaurant visits. One evening we ran straight into the town's Carnival! A great experience!



Leaving Mahahual after the 10 days in the beach house was really sad. We’d had a really nice time there. Still, the sad part was quickly forgotten as new places and experiences came and went. In Bacalar we visited an old Spanish fort from the 17th century that was built in order to protect the city against pirates. In the old days it had been possible to sail from the ocean and all the way into the lagoon and to the town, but in later years storms have closed the opening so that it now is a crystal clear fresh water lagoon!



From Bacalar we drove north to Tulum and more beaches. The camp was set at Mariachi Beach, now with my brother and his wife in the roof top tent, the kids on a mattress in the back of the Patrol (with open back doors, mosquito net, and the annex in place), and then my father and us in two tents on the beach. It is actually possible to camp seven people out of a Nissan Patrol! (Even if it is some stress finding things as everything gets shuffled around all the time).





Overlander's lunch

Alex, our eight year old nephew, had read up on the Chichen Itza ruins, and after all of us picking up a nasty sunburn in Tulum we headed north. Along the way we stopped at a cenote for a swim. It was kind of different to climb down into a cave before jumping in the water. Really cool place! I’ll try to find a photo and post.

cont....
 
#54 ·
Family time on Yucatan, Mexico - 2

...cont.


Chichen Itza has some great ruins, and is one of the nicest restored maya ruins in the area. Unfortunately it is also packed with tourists as it is so close to Cancun. Prices are ridiculous and there are people all over the place trying to sell you plastic souvenirs.





Ahead of the crowds….

The last night before our family was flying home we were back in Cancun. Here we reorganized luggage and tried to get unused gear and stuff back to Norway. I think they took almost 60 kilos of our stuff back home.



The plane wasn’t leaving until eight thirty in the evening, so we jumped on a boat going out to Isla Mujeres for a few more hours on the beach.



We had a really nice time with our family on Yucatan. It has been a while now without seeing friends or family so this was a real treat. The camp was almost uncomfortably quiet the night they left…

And now it is again time to head south! Can we do 5 countries within one week???

E&M
 
#55 ·
Wonderful, wonderful trip report - I'm hooked. One of my favourite sites is Adventure Rider Motorcycle Forum, for its impressive trip reports - yours is up to the best standards of it. Great photos and prose, and amazing adventures.

Cutting through the jungle with the Landrover was especially impressive :D

And as a Kombi camper owner myself I was very happy to see the orange bus out in the wilderness!
 
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