[DB-101]

Ha, just opened the section and saw a discussion on rear recovery points.

So to be different I came to the section looking at info on fronts for a S4 and later.

I have looked around and all seem much of a muchness ranging from the $120 a pair Roadsafe up the the ARB $125 each ...

With the exception of Superior Engineering's have a slightly down turn on the shackle point they all seem to come from the same Chinese factory and you pay a premium just get a "name" brand on it (and bugger that fro a game of marbles).

Personally, I see nothing wrong with the Roadsafe jobbies, my Roadsafe panhard is rock solid.

Anyone with some more definitive into on all this please.

 

[geeyoutoo]

I shopped around and your correct there isn't much difference between any of them, finished up buying Roadsafe from Jamies Touring Solutions, didn't buy them online as I wanted to physically see them and Jamies is a well known place.



Then the fun began. Note there are some differences between models re threads.

Fitting Front Recovery Points


After John posted a pic I remembered I had a pair of hooks in the shed.

Hooks added

 

[DB-101]

I shopped around and your correct there isn't much difference between any of them, finished up buying Roadsafe from Jamies Touring Solutions, didn't buy them online as I wanted to physically see them and Jamies is a well known place.



Then the fun began. Note there are some differences between models re threads.

Fitting Front Recovery Points


Ha, that looks like blood on the multigrips of pic 5 in the above link, truely blood, sweat and tears lol


After John posted a pic I remembered I had a pair of hooks in the shed.

Hooks added

I have different mounting points on my model, so no worries about taking the bar off.

(see pic)

Went down to a local supplier yesterday to get a good look at the roadsafe jobbies and they seem to be robust enough.

Then went to another store, different brand name, exactly the same product at a much higher cost.

So roadsafe it will be, I have no intentions of getting ripped off and lining someones greedy pocket.

My only thoughts is that the bolting arrangement does not look as robust as as the style of earlier GU's like yours.

Guess time will tell.

Thanks Ross.

 

[mgfletcher]

Hi

I've just got my first patrol, a GU9 2014 model, and looking at upgrading the recovery points.

I watched a video on YouTube https://youtu.be/GLtWVCD8K0E and these roadsafe points look like they would easy bolt onto mine.

The only issue I can foresee is the third bolt hole (horizontal to the ground) is currently being used by the bullbar.

Do you think it'll be okay to remove this bolt, connect up the recovery points and then re-bolt it with the bullbar and recovery point though that hole?

Ta, Michael

 

[geordie4x4]

Hi

I've just got my first patrol, a GU9 2014 model, and looking at upgrading the recovery points.

I watched a video on YouTube https://youtu.be/GLtWVCD8K0E and these roadsafe points look like they would easy bolt onto mine.

The only issue I can foresee is the third bolt hole (horizontal to the ground) is currently being used by the bullbar.

Do you think it'll be okay to remove this bolt, connect up the recovery points and then re-bolt it with the bullbar and recovery point though that hole?

Ta, Michael

Yes very good idea to have a horizontal bolt through the bottom mount of the bullbar, through the chassis tie-down plate and through the recovery plate. That is particularly good because it ties everything together and provides the recovery point attachment in both the vertical and horizontal shear making it much stronger.

I upgraded the horizontal bolts to 14mm high tensile fine threads as the combined bolt holes were all slightly out of round, I neatened them all up being careful not to remove much material and fitted the larger bolts with big flat washers as well as locking nuts.

 

[AndrieK]

@mgfletcher that's exactly what I did. The only issue is that the bullbar partially obstructs the hole of the recovery point but there's enough space to still fit a shackle through.

 

[Adashoe]

I have the roadsafe ones and have used and bused the **** out of them. I took a very big and hard landing into a ditch at 120km and bent one a bit. Still works fine unkrock:

 

[mgfletcher]

Thanks guys! Sorted then.

Do you recommend a torque wrench, or is just tightening them enough?

 

[Adashoe]

Thanks guys! Sorted then.

Do you recommend a torque wrench, or is just tightening them enough?

If you have and want a torque wrench, then use it. otherwise just tightening them is fine enough.

Check the bolts again after a few recoveries

 

[Batt's]

Having 2 recoveries points would be a good idea on the front, rear of all 4WD's as long as both points where there mounted to the chassis are of equal strength which is not always the case. I would contact the vehicle manufacturer or do the correct research that it is ok or it could get costly believing a company that mass produces recovery brackets but have never had any proper testing done and signed off for each individual vehicle brand they product brackets for.

 

[AndrieK]

Having 2 recoveries points would be a good idea on the front, rear of all 4WD's as long as both points where there mounted to the chassis are of equal strength which is not always the case. I would contact the vehicle manufacturer or do the correct research that it is ok or it could get costly believing a company that mass produces recovery brackets but have never had any proper testing done and signed off for each individual vehicle brand they product brackets for.

That's my biggest issue with the ARB recovery points. I don't really see the point of bolting a 20mm thick recovery point to a 2mm thick chassis side member. Their recovery points might be "rated" but all that means is the recovery point will ensure the chassis bends before the recovery point fails. A bit counterproductive, I think...

My Y61 has equal length side members and the same weld nuts on both sides.

 

[Red Dirt]

Mine only has the weld nuts on the drivers side so removing the bulbar and feeding the nuts down the chassis on the (too short) wire welded to the supplied nuts was an absolute pain!

Turned a simple 3min job into half a day of swearing- thanks Mr Nissan...


.

 

[Overboard]

Mine only has the weld nuts on the drivers side so removing the bulbar and feeding the nuts down the chassis on the (too short) wire welded to the supplied nuts was an absolute pain!

Turned a simple 3min job into half a day of swearing- thanks Mr Nissan...
.

I fed my wired nuts through a hole in the side of the chassis on my series 1 GU. There was just enough room to get the nuts over the pipe crossmember that goes through the chassis rail if you turned the nut sideways. There were dozens of attempts to get the nuts in the right place with much rebending of the wire between each attempt but it was way faster than removing the winch from the bullbar and the bullbar from the car and then reinstalling all of it.

You are right though, why didn't Nissan put captive nuts on both sides? .. they put the holes there for them.

 

[geeyoutoo]

Mine only has the weld nuts on the drivers side so removing the bulbar and feeding the nuts down the chassis on the (too short) wire welded to the supplied nuts was an absolute pain!

Turned a simple 3min job into half a day of swearing- thanks Mr Nissan...


.

I had to do that with mine (written up in my build tread), I tried everything to get around removing the bullbar, wasn't to be.

 

[Squalo]

That's my biggest issue with the ARB recovery points. I don't really see the point of bolting a 20mm thick recovery point to a 2mm thick chassis side member. Their recovery points might be "rated" but all that means is the recovery point will ensure the chassis bends before the recovery point fails. A bit counterproductive, I think...

My Y61 has equal length side members and the same weld nuts on both sides.

The strength comes from the fact that the recovery points rely on shear stress. Three bolts per point, but the load is also spread through the contact points between those three points.


I had twin 16mm Superior Engineering recovery points on my 2008 GU and I can tell you I put both of them to the sword many times, doing stuff that 95% of recreational 4wders would never do. One memorable occasion - four snatch straps joined together (because the tow vehicle couldn't get any closer), both diffs grounded out due to 35" tyres cutting the tracks out, and the tow vehicle a GQ Patrol with a 454 Chev in it, pulling me up a steep hill at full noise for a good 300 metres. Not a problem. They did the job. I really should have pulled them off that GU when I wrecked it.

 

[mgfletcher]

Mine only has the weld nuts on the drivers side so removing the bulbar and feeding the nuts down the chassis on the (too short) wire welded to the supplied nuts was an absolute pain!

Turned a simple 3min job into half a day of swearing- thanks Mr Nissan...


.

I have a 2014 GU and was very relieved to see that the passenger side chassis appears to have weld nuts already!

 

[LAST_42]

I've actually bent the Road Safe ones. That was due to winching with a snatch block on an angle and not straight towards the anchor point. Been on the car for a good 5 years. Good value for money

 

[Red Dirt]

I have a 2014 GU and was very relieved to see that the passenger side chassis appears to have weld nuts already!

I bet you were relieved to see those weld nuts in place!

Only took Mr Nissan 16 years to get that bit right 🙄

 

[Michael (Moss Vale NSW)]

Gday guys,
Iv'e had my Patrol since new, a 2003 GU3 and i have kept the genuine hook on the front, as it has only been used a few times so i haven't bothered to add aftermarket recovery points. So just looking at some posts here and my vehicle today, it appears if you have the tall radiator from about late 2002 like me, you get a heavy steel lower radiator guard and this guard uses the same two holes either side of the chassis that the aftermarket recovery points use. The guard is bolted in first and the standard front hook is bolted through that guard on the drivers side. So it appears from start of GU3 all the 4 captive nuts needed to attach the two aftermarket points are already there. So it doesn't affect me having to add the nuts but there is much talk on the site about having to get these nuts inside the chassis on a piece of wire. So just out of curiosity, what models need the extra nuts added on the passengers side. My earlier 1999 GU, the front recovery hook was from memory, bolted to the side of the chassis rail, hence the flat style aftermarket points. regards, Michael