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Picked up the 22mm SuperPro bar I ordered from SuperCheap today, fitted bar and test drive done, bloody marvelous, the whole vehicle feels so much tighter without out being rough, in the next few weeks I'll play with shock settings just to see what happens, I reckon I can back them off and soften ride further and still handle well, time will tell.
Once again the SuperPro Bar comes with a message that it will only fit the GU3 and later, went straight in no worries, the thread on the body link joint is the only thing that has changed, when I fitted my extended links years ago they came with extra bolts and spacers, maybe that is the key.
View attachment 536275
View attachment 536276
Hi Geeyoutoo,
I noted the above with interest and found that Whiteline had a 10% offsale before xmas so bought the BNK016X vehicle kit, which included the front bar 24mm and rear bar 24mm and bushings(4) $575 delivered to melbourne.
Easy fitment - looking forward to feedback from son who is planning a trip up your way and then onto magnetic island.
It has a roof top tent on a wedgetail rack plus progressive kings of 3inch over standard so need all the body restraint I can get.......
Thanks for all the advice and keeping on top of the forum.

Just did the spill line mod as well, simpler than I was expecting..............................
 
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Discussion Starter · #2,022 ·
Hi Geeyoutoo,
I noted the above with interest and found that Whiteline had a 10% offsale before xmas so bought the BNK016X vehicle kit, which included the front bar 24mm and rear bar 24mm and bushings(4) $575 delivered to melbourne.
Easy fitment - looking forward to feedback from son who is planning a trip up your way and then onto magnetic island.
It has a roof top tent on a wedgetail rack plus progressive kings of 3inch over standard so need all the body restraint I can get.......
Thanks for all the advice and keeping on top of the forum.

Just did the spill line mod as well, simpler than I was expecting..............................
Thanks, I will be interested in feedback on how the rear 24mm bar goes. I've spent the last 3 days on dirt roads, corrugations and potholes and the old girl handled it well.
 

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Thanks, I will be interested in feedback on how the rear 24mm bar goes. I've spent the last 3 days on dirt roads, corrugations and potholes and the old girl handled it well.
Surely with the bigger swaybars you will have lost some ‘flex’ but if your never gonna go that hard off road there is no real downside to upgrading the swaybars. Potholes and corrugations are really primarily the handling of spring and shock absorbers.


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Discussion Starter · #2,024 ·
Surely with the bigger swaybars you will have lost some ‘flex’ but if your never gonna go that hard off road there is no real downside to upgrading the swaybars. Potholes and corrugations are really primarily the handling of spring and shock absorbers.
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I don't do hardcore stuff anymore, the only reason I do is to get to a particular spot I wish to see, years ago I would have disconnected swaybars but can't be bothered now, I'll get to where I wish to go somehow. Surprisingly it still has a lot of flex, many said it would be lost, but I suppose the e-locker makes up a lot for any lost flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,025 ·
The Old ZD30 DI Performance Update
Having just completed a 3200k road trip in many varied conditions, which is first real trip since I fitted the latest version of the Eclipse and upgraded shocks and swaybars, I can only say the old girl performed faultlessly. I still can't believe there was limited change in dyno numbers after fitting the turbo and that the improvement revolves around responce, the difference is incredible. I don't use much more than 3 grand normally but she pulls like train all the way to redline when required, makes overtaking a pleasure, gave the speedo a good workout a couple of times ;).
The ride and general handling improvement was well worth the money, handled all conditions in exemplary fashion.
What's my next project :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,027 ·
Just became aware of a difference between ZD30 turbo oil feed gaskets while looking through collected old gaskets I've kept as good 'reserve' gaskets in case of emergency. Even though the hole in one of them is the same size as the port in the turbo, smearing gasket goo on that gasket with the smaller hole has definite potential for gasket goo to squeeze out and block the port, just something to keep in mind.
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Discussion Starter · #2,028 ·
Another project had me drain a bit of coolant so when I needed to top up I couldn't find the funnel I normally use, but looking around I came across the top of a 2L coke bottle I had used for filling sump (I had 2). Screwed the cap on, cut a hole up through the cap and it is a perfect push fit into the throat of the radiator, so you can fill it up and several inches above, start engine and wait for air bubbles to rise and then thermostat to open and and settle, all the time you can top up any time you like while sitting back with a beer. I know there are special funnels for this but this is cheap and effective.
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Another project had me drain a bit of coolant so when I needed to top up I couldn't find the funnel I normally use, but looking around I came across the top of a 2L coke bottle I had used for filling sump (I had 2). Screwed the cap on, cut a hole up through the cap and it is a perfect push fit into the throat of the radiator, so you can fill it up and several inches above, start engine and wait for air bubbles to rise and then thermostat to open and and settle, all the time you can top up any time you like while sitting back with a beer. I know there are special funnels for this but this is cheap and effective.
View attachment 539955
My grandfather taught me to reuse or recycle as much as possible. I still have the original home made funnel bleeder from when he showed me how to bleed a car as a teenager.


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Discussion Starter · #2,030 ·
Been meaning to do a vid on this for months, I did one years ago when the talk was that original bonnet scoop was WOFTAM, especially if you had driving lights, bulbar, etc, etc, that was proven to be totally wrong, it worked well considering it's size. This one grabs everything thrown at it, it did make a small difference to EGT, around 20c on average if I remember correctly. Haven't had it on a beach since fitting the big scoop but I would be reasonably confident the underslung IC fan would have no issue sucking copious amounts of air through that gap at low speeds.
Top speed was 100k
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Discussion Starter · #2,032 ·
Reinstalled my old needle valve solenoid setup, took it out years ago but after experimenting recently I decided to put it back so I can flick between settings while out on the highways and byways.
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Can u please explain needle valve solenoid setup operation Ross. Interested in understanding your setup.

I have reverted back to remap ECM/Vacsol control with Dawes + needle downstream (boost limiter) and using needle between fresh air pick up and actuator (to adjust vane closure limit). Going really well and best EGTs that suit me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,034 ·
Can u please explain needle valve solenoid setup operation Ross. Interested in understanding your setup.

I have reverted back to remap ECM/Vacsol control with Dawes + needle downstream (boost limiter) and using needle between fresh air pick up and actuator (to adjust vane closure limit). Going really well and best EGTs that suit me.
No worries mate. I have my needle valve in cab (always have), years ago I fitted the solenoid close to vnt and fitted a switch on the dash, only realised the other day I had left switch and wiring in tact with wiring wound up and hidden, I have the needle valve setup so that between 17%tps and 22%tps I'm between 10psi and 15psi for 105k on moderately undulating highway eco, flick the switch and it is full bore on spoolup,, I'm running 25psi max in both cases as needle is only open a touch over a turn to achieve highway setup. EGT hangs between 280c and 450c, but as you know if you unrelentingly load it up in a high gear then EGT will please itself. My needle valve is a 1/8" 6 turn valve.
 

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10psi and 15psi for 105k on moderately undulating highway
Ross thanks for the info. My CRD is much the same for a typ cruise B and the EGTs similar between 280c and 450c. Yes hauling EGTs are subjective as you say, working hard high gearing can see 550C. Stock eng would have seen 680C same condition so pretty good.

Used MB to provide me with a visual of the changes I was doing to VNT vane closure limit and have increased closure from reference pwm 43% to 51% (just info). I have an electric solenoid in line with the boost limiter as I do not have a need to run 30+psi. Might hookup the solenoid with the fresh air needle (will provide for max vane closure) just to see as long as I keep a lid on max boost.
 

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Can u please explain needle valve solenoid setup operation Ross. Interested in understanding your setup.

I have reverted back to remap ECM/Vacsol control with Dawes + needle downstream (boost limiter) and using needle between fresh air pick up and actuator (to adjust vane closure limit). Going really well and best EGTs that suit me.
Bidja, curious as to why because from memory you had a fully setup magic Box?

So you're using the needle to choke the vac supply to increase/decrease spoolup on the factory vacsol boost control?
Why not the MB?
 

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Bidja, curious as to why because from memory you had a fully setup magic Box?

So you're using the needle to choke the vac supply to increase/decrease spoolup on the factory vacsol boost control?
Why not the MB?
OK this Ross's build thread so will only provide brief comment. Not for ongoing MB discussion here...

Using MB, I was concerned that my EGTs were higher than for previous set ups (manual boost or ECM/Vacsol operation):
Vacsol / ECM 24psi _ cruise 300-350 (50-60%) eng load, my test hill 4th gear max 450C.
MB 24 psi _ cruise 350-400 (50-60%) eng load, my test hill 4th gear max 550C.

What is going on, maybe CRD uses different triggers for VNT control and fuel management than what MB provides. Do not know.

I find that my CRD using ECM(remap) /Vacsol VNT control performs very well. The installed Procharge turbo can produce bit better than 30 psi, so I am using a boost limiter (Dawes 20psi and needle downstream for target Max B 24psi) and have a 2nd needle between vacsol ports "A" (Actuator/vac) and "C" (fresh air pick up) that adjusts the max vane aperture closed limit.

Surprised how it is holding / hauling up hill.. Going up the mountains couple of days ago was impressive.

Ross, I could post diagram ECM/Vacsol setup if you like.
 

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OK this Ross's build thread so will only provide brief comment. Not for ongoing MB discussion here...

Using MB, I was concerned that my EGTs were higher than for previous set ups (manual boost or ECM/Vacsol operation):
Vacsol / ECM 24psi _ cruise 300-350 (50-60%) eng load, my test hill 4th gear max 450C.
MB 24 psi _ cruise 350-400 (50-60%) eng load, my test hill 4th gear max 550C.

What is going on, maybe CRD uses different triggers for VNT control and fuel management than what MB provides. Do not know.

I find that my CRD using ECM(remap) /Vacsol VNT control performs very well. The installed Procharge turbo can produce bit better than 30 psi, so I am using a boost limiter (Dawes 20psi and needle downstream for target Max B 24psi) and have a 2nd needle between vacsol ports "A" (Actuator/vac) and "C" (fresh air pick up) that adjusts the max vane aperture closed limit.

Surprised how it is holding / hauling up hill.. Going up the mountains couple of days ago was impressive.

Ross, I could post diagram ECM/Vacsol setup if you like.
Yes, that's fine mate.
 

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To compliment my post # 2037.

Ross attached is the schematic of my VNT control method. The advantage of using the Dawes is that the ECM / Vacsol is in complete control of the VNT until opening of Dawes @ 20psi.

Have an elect N/C solenoid before Dawes so can run @ boost >24psi but do not think is needed. MAF rate is impressive and hwy cruise @ 100kph the MAF is 3.6-3.7 volts consistently.

I find that my CRD using ECM(remap) /Vacsol VNT control performs very well. The installed Procharge turbo can produce bit better than 30 psi, so I am using a boost limiter (Dawes 20psi and needle downstream for target Max B 24psi) and have a 2nd needle between vacsol ports "A" (Actuator/vac) and "C" (fresh air pick up) that adjusts the max vane aperture closed limit.
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Discussion Starter · #2,040 ·
As an aside, I recently reinstalled my old Dawes to reduce max boost. A different turbine wheel has not long been fitted to my Eclipse and with everything else the same max boost went from 25psi to close to 30psi, which I didn't want so instead of going back and reworking the digibooster I put the Dawes back in until I get around to resetting the programme, no rush still going just as good.
 
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