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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,821 (Edited)
Upgrade of Pre Turbo Injection
Replaced the 5 corroded silver anodised braided hose connections in my WM setup with black seeing as the black ones had not corroded. Did a full pressure flow test on my newly drilled out Snow #1 nozzle, below is a vid on it, last night I tracked down a new Snow #3 here in Oz at a reasonable price, ordered it and will try that one first before moving up to my drilled out version, will do a flow test on it at 200psi when it arrives.

BTW if you notice drops of water coming out the back of the tubing during the test, this was from the push in nylon fitting, once the tubing has been pushed in a few times the seal isn't always 100% this was why I went to braided under the bonnet as I'm always playing.........

 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,822 (Edited)
Upgrade of Preturbo Nozzle to Snow3.
Have done 2 x Covid 19 drives since restrictions were relaxed last weekend, so, we can drive 50k from home but if all the back tracks take 200k within that 50k limit that is fine, so great testing as we did a solid mixture of mountainous and flat terrain at varying speeds.

I've used just about every nozzle brand there is over the years, I like the Snow as they seem to atomise far better than the others I have tried, terrible company to get info from but great nozzles.

In recent weeks I've made a couple of changes to how the WM system works, first up preturbo has two starting parameters, boost must be a minimum of 12psi and TPS must be 28%, I think I can drop the boost a pound or two lower but TPS is about where it should be, doesn't come on cruising but the moment a bit of effort is required it snaps on. The Throttle Body nozzle (DO2) comes on now at 17psi ramping to 19psi full on instead of starting at 19psi. The reason I reduced this was I had been cruising at 15-16psi which meant it jumped to 17psi very easily, I'm very happy with the mode I've set the digibooster at but would like a lower cruising boost (fuel eco). I reconnected my in cab needle valve and with the valve cracked around 1/2 turn I'm cruising at 11-13psi but as soon as load is exerted it responds the way it always has, if WOT is applied it shoots to 26psi immediately relaxing to 25psi, but under normal driving conditions it dances to the tune of throttle setting.

The first drive was with new settings but still Snow2 nozzle pre turbo (with system cleaned and new black fittings in place) very happy with performance and driveability. The second drive was with the new modified inlet and the new modified Snow3 nozzle. Note: The nozzle is still set within 4mm of the compwheel shaft.

New Snow3 compared to modified Snow2
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Had drilled out a Snow1 to 0.7mm to see what happened, got flow rates of just over 300ml/min at 200psi as shown in earlier video. Machined the new Snow3 to slimline and ran a 1/4"UNF tap through the back, rigged it up and bugga me I get the same flow readings even though the nozzle hole is ever so slightly smaller, this really shouldn't be according to Snow flow figures??? Took pics of both new and drilled showing spray pattern, the thing that stands out is the better atomisation of the Snow3. I know CM does all there flowrate testing at 100psi, I am not sure what pressure Snow does it at and I'm not sure David would pass that on considering past communications with him.
Snow1 drilled to 0.7mm
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Snow3 nozzle
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Snow2 nozzle
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Each Snow nozzle has a different internal flow manager as seen in pics below, I swapped the Snow1 device into the Snow3 nozzle thinking I would see a different flow rate, but no just a different pattern. Note: to make the nozzles fit my pre turbo the filter is dispensed with and the spring needs to be cut but I do cut them so the same compression is on the back of the plunger.

Snow1 plunger
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Snow2
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Snow3
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Snow2, cut spring with plunger and nozzle
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Did another inspection of the turbo while changing to the new inlet, all good once more.
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The outcome is the Snow3 improved driveability, the natural torque of the engine gets it moving fine and when the pre turbo comes in it just adds to it, the way I have it setup now means often the pre turbo comes on before the Throttle Body nozzle is activated.

Yesterdays drive was again a mixture of flat and mountains, something I'm still coming to grips with is I expected water usage to skyrocket, but it didn't, my only explanation is even though more is going in at any given time it must be on for less time due to efficiency.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,824
Fantastic Rosco! I don't know if my bus will ever reach your level but I owe everything I know about my ZD too you, keep it up. Thanks mate.

I stand on the shoulders of giants.....
Thanks mate, I really appreciate that, makes everything worthwhile. Sharing what we have learned about our vehicles is what this forum is all about, while ever I have the enthusiasm to do projects I'll keep documenting.
Thanks again
 

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Nissan patrol GU
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Ross, have you tried your set up with throttle body first and pre turbo at second stage ??. Just curious if it would make any difference in power hit and water usage.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,826
Ross, have you tried your set up with throttle body first and pre turbo at second stage ??. Just curious if it would make any difference in power hit and water usage.
That is the way it was for many years, it is only in recent months with dropping TPS setting down to 28% and then dropping safety pressure down to 12psi that the reverse happens under certain circumstances, it does not happen every time like that because conditions change, ie taking off from lights will see pre turbo come on first due to heavier use of throttle, but out on the highway it takes a lot to get TPS to 28%. I think it has been a positive move. Water usage was my main reason for doing it the original way, but as found my water usage has not increased like I had expected.
 

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Nissan patrol GU
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So now chance of pre turbo being small nozzle and throttle body large nozzle is what l’m getting at , l know it sounds silly but , as said just looking at all possibilities.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,828
So now chance of pre turbo being small nozzle and throttle body large nozzle is what l’m getting at , l know it sounds silly but , as said just looking at all possibilities.
There is more benefit pre turbo than post turbo, when I was cleaning out the system throttle bottle was a big one, at one stage I was injecting 7gal/hour to hasten cleaning. Improved driveability is what I chase now but still having wm economy in mind, and that is still looking positive. I actually have 3 injection points, post turbo I can switch between higher flow for around town and an economy for trips.
 

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Nissan patrol GU
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Totally agree, 👍👍
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,830
Performance Update
A year has well and truly passed since I last did this testing before the remap update, which is coming up on a year, so I suppose it's time to update some info, the old girl just gets better and better and considering that except for the remap all the mods I've done anyone can do in their backyard.

Did not bother with 0-100k time as it is really pointless, for touring it is what you can do in higher gears when out on the highway, so here goes in 4th gear:
60-80kph = 3.52 seconds
80-100kph = 3.62 seconds
60-100kph = 7.14 seconds.

100k cruise is now at 12-14psi on flat road instead of the previous 15-17psi, EGT is sitting nicely at high 200's and will rise to 400c when loaded, no problem, of course if I push it hard up a reasonable incline (like the last climb coming up towards Monteville) it will go to 500c and recovers instantly.

Boost still set at 25psi, will spike to 26psi on WOT but drops straight back to 25psi. ICV% has come down while cruising, instead of 3.75v it is now 3.55v. and I'm back into low 11L/100k with all the gear still on and in it.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,831
ECO Surprise :)
Just got a very pleasant surprise at the fuel bowser, filled up a few weeks ago and got a number I didn't believe, so thought next fill I'll take more care and make sure it is to the brim. Bugga me did it today and got very similar number, 10.4L/100k, that was over 1000k and made up of 50% local and 50% day trips, so a good all round test.
Since fitting the Eclipse a lot has gone on because it highlighted other issues in an old vehicle, new IP, +50% injectors, then the remap required an update (which included lowering AFR to 17/18 once up and running), I have been sitting in mid 11's to low 12's in eco since initial work was done, recently have been looking at the finer side of tuning, playing with digibooster which included reconnecting my in cab needle valve which is just cracked half a turn. The result! not only is the old girl going better than it ever has it is also back into 10's on eco, win win.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1,832
Coolant Change
I mentioned a week ago in 'What did you do to your GU/GQ today' that I had done another coolant change and this time did hoses as well, after starting a thread on coolants used in vehicles with aluminium heads a while back I decided to act, so I went for Nulon Premium Long Life Coolant 100% Concentrate, 8 Year or 500,000k. SuperCheap has a special on, 6L for the price of 5L and that works for me.
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The intention was to run a 50/50 mix with Demin, which I have been doing for a long time with previous Green coolants. I bought a bottle of Nulon Radiator Flush and Clean and followed the directions to the letter. Allowed the system to cool enough to drop the old coolant, only had to remove the air-dam under the radiator to get at hose onto the bottom of the radiator, was not able to remove block drain bung, but after many years that isn't surprising and can be worked around anyway. Disconnected the bottom hose from the engine pipe and shoved the garden hose into it and reverse flushed the radiator (top hose disconnected also so nothing could be pushed back into the block), then put garden hose into top hose and reverse flushed the engine.

Filled system with tap water and went for a drive, dropped that and repeated above reverse flush points.

I had bought top, bottom and cross hoses from Garry quite a while ago so was prepared. I was surprised at how different the hoses were, the new genuine hoses were noticeably thinner than the existing genuine hoses, expanded and softened somewhat, they were changed at 150,000k and now had 387,000k on them, so they have done a bit of work.

Driving around town I noticed a slight change. Wedding Anniversary yesterday so took Wife up to Tin Can Bay Marina Bar and Grill for a nice lunch (been there many times, best Macadamia Prawn Cutlets in the history of the world and a nice outlook). Good time to test being a 300k round trip with a little site seeing along the way. I had already noticed a 1-1.5c reduction in temps around town, the trip showed that out on the highway in cruise control it was a 1.5-2c improvement, which also seemed to be slightly more stable when doing long climbs. Ambient was 27-28c so not cold and giving a false impression. I'm quite pleased with the result, Vehicle and Lunch :).

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