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2016 CRD wagon
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Hi Ross,
Just spotted this on your Rad and was wondering why this is open under the cap 🤔😯
I stuck a bolt in my rad I had years ago which was similar to this with some gasket sealant to prevent any Coolant loss or pressure loss, aftermarket rad for you.
The rad I use now is Normal for the Patrol and does not have that outlet. View attachment 528754 View attachment 528755
Dan the outlet you talk of is blocked and is manufactured that way. If you need to use it you can simply drill through the plastic to open it up(but our patrols do not use it)🙂
 

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07 Black Patrol 3.0 / 04 Grey 3.0 Patrol / 01 3.0 Patrol
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I had a rad last year and it wasn't blocked!! Lol I had to block it myself
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Discussion Starter · #1,923 ·
Great job on this thread GU2 and great job with that head change!! I am about to do my own and it looks not too bad,I have all the tools on the ready inc a new torque wrench and just waiting now for my head and head kit to arrive and I shall start the project.I'm debating putting on a lower K turbo I have as a spare too as I'm at it,I can hear a whine out of mine now.
One question for you, how did you clean & prepare the block prior to fitting the head,method used?
Also,how did you take off that annoying head drain pipe?? Not looking forward to that part🙈 Last head I removed I just pulled the whole lot off together 😅
Hi Dan sorry for late reply, all I did was spray a small amount of oil in each cylinder, turned motor to halfway through stroke, put rags in each cylinder and used a scraper to clean around the deck. Bore was in great condition.

Hi Ross,
Just spotted this on your Rad and was wondering why this is open under the cap 🤔😯
I stuck a bolt in my rad I had years ago which was similar to this with some gasket sealant to prevent any Coolant loss or pressure loss, aftermarket rad for you.
The rad I use now is Normal for the Patrol and does not have that outlet. View attachment 528754
This top tank was replaced, it was actually a hybrid that could be used on a other models but the hole doesn't go through, it would need to be drilled to make that happen.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Discussion Starter · #1,925 ·
REPLACING 3" 40MM TOUGHDOG ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS WITH 4" 45MM TWIN TUBE ADJUSTABLES.
After 10 or 11 years I thought it was time to replace my 3" lifted 40m ToughDog adjustable shocks, they had done a lot of highways, backroads, tracks and corrugations with ease and comfort so thought I'd go them again after looking around at others. Only difference is I decided to go the 45mm twin tube 4" adjustables, been done by many I suppose but that is what a build thread is all about, what you do.

So while doing my 400,000k service I decided to fit them. Front shocks go straight in easy peasy, nothing to see there but, rear shocks is a little different where some controlled grinding and a few well placed blows to the bump stop plates with a good hammer are required to make them fit, and I didn't realise there was a difference in positioning of the bump stop plate between drivers and passenger sides...... Hmmm! something I missed.

The bump stop plates get in the way and the instruction sheet says cut 10mm from the bump stop plate, after rigging up a cutting disc I just wasn't happy with what was going to be uncontrolled sparks going everywhere, not a lot of room and all angles needed to achieve the cut, decided my big old 12" Sidchrome shifter clamped on the last 10mm and pulled down all the way along would give a good start to finishing off with well placed hammer blows to get enough clearance between shock body and plate. Worked a treat but this is where the difference in plate positioning was noted, on Pass side shock sits almost central with plate but on Drive side it is closer to the inside edge of the plate where it is at 90 degrees, after bending edge and panel beating I had to use a hacksaw to cut the sharp edge away. All worked out fine, clears well and truly. NOTE: Rubber grease smeared on all bushings and pins on assembly.

The 40mm rear shocks have a 45 degree slope at the base which the 50's didn't so even with the spacer they supply the base of the shock was only a gnats knacker away from the support rod and bolt, so I had to grind a small angle on the plate to give a few mm clearance, I could direct the sparks towards the ground on this quite easily so no worries. Don't understand why one set of rears has the angle but the larger ones don't???????

Damn there is a lot of mud under the body from my last wet Hill End trip, must put the sprinkler under there later.

Fronts went in easy peasy.
530713


Passenger side bump stop plate panel beaten down 10mm back, shock basically aligns with the middle of the plate, brake line bracket clears no worries. At the actual lower shock mount, light grinding of the top of the backing plate just behind and above the spacer gives enough clearance for shock bush housing.
530714


Clears everything, as mentioned above on the 40mm adj shocks the base where the adjustable valve is was machined at 45 degrees, so had plenty of clearance, the 45mm didn't have this angle.
530715


This is drivers side, the bump stop plate has a different offset to the passenger side that I had not noticed before so the shock doesn't align with the middle, this means the inside corner needs to be flattened, after the initial panel beating I hacksawed the sharp corner off before cleaning up and painting with black cold galvanising. Base mount shoulder also needed to be ground back as Pass side.
530751


All fits :).
530752


Full drop. Std brake line to diff housing is fine, hose connection mounting plate on diff given gentle persuasion to angle towards the front of the diff, that was all that was needed (this was done when the original 40mm toughdogs were fitted many years ago and still works on the 4" shocks). However, diff breather had to be extended this time with the extra inch of droop..
530753


On the ground in static compression. The offset of the bumpstop plates can be clearly seen in this pic.
530754
 

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Nicely done Ross. Yes the big shocks do present additional clearances issues. My big Koni 90 are about the same outside diameter as your new shocks but your Tough Dogs look more squared off at the base hence closer to the bracket. Whilst mine are more squared off at the top which is a metal guard and close to my coil tower reinforcement brackets, I had to do some trimming there too.

How did the front shock clearance through the hole go. I had to open up the hole just around one side as it was very close as the shock body comes up through the hole on full compression and it is slightly offset depending on if the other side wheel is up or down, it tilts the diff and consequently the mount point.

Your rear right shock looks closer to the spring than the left one. I also faced that same dilemma with the bump stop base plates. I didn't want to cut so close to the brake lines or my airbags. I did as you have and cut a bit then bent it down. Later when I got a new diff reinforced the plate was cut back when the diff was out and stripped down for welding. I had the spring base modified and tilted or rotated slightly around the axle tube to have it align flat to the bump stop plate and spring perch. This was so that on full compression or if I let all air out of the rear airbags they (airbags with internal bump and the actual bump stop plates) both line up to bump stop points meeting at the same square on angle, not having the spring seat tilted off centre forward. Not such an issue with coil springs.

I also looked at cutting off the lower shock absorber brackets to fit stronger and lower profile type from Superior or Buds. I was going to correct the spacing difference. But after making numerous measurements, cardboard cut out templates, measured shock position and angles at all combinations through the suspension traveling range, there was really no better mount point that didn't interfere somewhere else. Panhard rod lower position is I think part of the reason for the offset spacing. I left it alone after that.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Discussion Starter · #1,927 ·
Nicely done Ross. Yes the big shocks do present additional clearances issues. My big Koni 90 are about the same outside diameter as your new shocks but your Tough Dogs look more squared off at the base hence closer to the bracket. Whilst mine are more squared off at the top which is a metal guard and close to my coil tower reinforcement brackets, I had to do some trimming there too.

How did the front shock clearance through the hole go. I had to open up the hole just around one side as it was very close as the shock body comes up through the hole on full compression and it is slightly offset depending on if the other side wheel is up or down, it tilts the diff and consequently the mount point.

Your rear right shock looks closer to the spring than the left one. I also faced that same dilemma with the bump stop base plates. I didn't want to cut so close to the brake lines or my airbags. I did as you have and cut a bit then bent it down. Later when I got a new diff reinforced the plate was cut back when the diff was out and stripped down for welding. I had the spring base modified and tilted or rotated slightly around the axle tube to have it align flat to the bump stop plate and spring perch. This was so that on full compression or if I let all air out of the rear airbags they (airbags with internal bump and the actual bump stop plates) both line up to bump stop points meeting at the same square on angle, not having the spring seat tilted off centre forward. Not such an issue with coil springs.

I also looked at cutting off the lower shock absorber brackets to fit stronger and lower profile type from Superior or Buds. I was going to correct the spacing difference. But after making numerous measurements, cardboard cut out templates, measured shock position and angles at all combinations through the suspension traveling range, there was really no better mount point that didn't interfere somewhere else. Panhard rod lower position is I think part of the reason for the offset spacing. I left it alone after that.
Front shocks were a tight squeeze to get up through the hole and clear the base, but got there, no mods necessary on front. As indicated, on the rear I don't understand why the 40's have an angled base and the 45's don't :unsure:. I'm not sure now if there were any subtle changes to spring and bump stop mount positions during the life of the GU.

The old girl feels tight as a drum now.

Not long back from another trip I did down to Hill End via back roads (love the place) and stayed a few days on an old property, also did the Bridle Track again as far as Monaghans Bluff where the road collapsed a few years ago, the top part of the Bridle Track is the worst I have seen it since first doing it in the 80's, but great fun, it rained all the way down and all the way back did a lot of creek crossings, we were actually lucky to get home and miss the flooding.

Got another long trip in the planning for winter, down through NSW, Vic and SA and back up through the centre, that will give the new shocks a workout :).
 

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I also looked at cutting off the lower shock absorber brackets to fit stronger and lower profile type from Superior or Buds. I was going to correct the spacing difference. But after making numerous measurements, cardboard cut out templates, measured shock position and angles at all combinations through the suspension traveling range, there was really no better mount point that didn't interfere somewhere else. Panhard rod lower position is I think part of the reason for the offset spacing. I left it alone after that.
I am not exactly sure why the shock mounts are different unless to account for the sideways movement of the diff due to the panhard. Both upper and lower mounts are offset so just moving one isnt necessarily going to solve the issue.
I also looked at putting lower profile mounts on the diff but with a wagon on no option of moving the upper mount you will lose too much compressed shock length.

Oh and the ironman foam cell pros which would be as thick as the konis or tough dogs have the bottom mount welded offset to push the shock body away from the diff.
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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Hi Ross, did you get an open and closed length on your new vs old shocks. I'd be interested to hear.
I have 4" adjustable tough dogs but from anecdotes I've read on this forum, it seems the open/closed length is easily exceeded by the 3" ironman foamcell pros. Interested if your new ones have closed the gap (pardon the pun!) between the two brands
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Discussion Starter · #1,930 ·
Hi Ross, did you get an open and closed length on your new vs old shocks. I'd be interested to hear.
I have 4" adjustable tough dogs but from anecdotes I've read on this forum, it seems the open/closed length is easily exceeded by the 3" ironman foamcell pros. Interested if your new ones have closed the gap (pardon the pun!) between the two brands
No I didn't measure but with the old toughdogs I didn't need to lengthen the diff breather but with these I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,931 · (Edited)
REPLACING 3" 40MM TOUGHDOG ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS WITH 4" 45MM TWIN TUBE ADJUSTABLES (cont).
My wife had an operation on her foot several weeks ago and she has been laid up ever since (still got 4 weeks left to serve in her 'special' shoe), she is bored witless as you can imagine, she has been walking in the house a little this last week with crutches, yesterday I asked her If I could get her into the Trol painlessly would she like to go for a drive and the answer was yes (that was boredom speaking), took a bit of doing but we got there with the aid of a portable step I had in the shed and a few seat adjustments. So, off we go on a sedate drive for a couple of hours, went up to and around Noosa and came back the coast road with a few detours to places like Sunshine Beach. The new shocks got the nod of approval (I've got them set on mid range adjustment #4), she referred to the ride as very good, taut without roughness, which is how I would describe it as well so I'm happy and, happy wife, happy life.

On the first short drive I did after fitting the shocks, I had a knock in the back that only occurred on bends, not in a straight line going over bumps????? Rechecked shock clearance all round and still all good, rocked the vehicle side to side and could get the knock if I did it hard, back under and check everything, eventually found the spherical bearing rod ends on the extended sway bar links at the front had wear in them and they had decided that after I had fitted new shocks they would start to knock :rolleyes:, took them off for an investigation and settled on using one of my pin punches to very carefully peen both sides of the rod ends thus tightening them, drilled out the old grease nipples and fitted 6mm nipples, greased them up and on the Noosa run no sign of a knock anywhere. Sound had actually transferred along the chassis to the rear, happens. That will get me out of trouble for a while. Will start looking at making some sort of boot for the rod ends to keep the dust from all those dirt roads and creek crossings out of them, might even get a couple of years that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,933 ·
Thanks a million Geordie, exactly what I'm after, magic!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,934 ·
400,000k

Almost forgot, while on my drive north for the fishing trip I had to pull over and get a pic of this:

531879
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,936 ·
Well done exactly at the 400000 mark.
On my way north I'd stopped at a town called Calliope, looked at odometer and thought that will hit 400,000 at around Yepoon, so I was prepared :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,937 ·
So, the old 2000 Trol I've owned since new has had a big year in 2021, She got new shoes a couple of months ago, she clocked up 400,000k on a recent trip, she turned 21, she just did another trip north came home and a day later headed south to Evans Head where she spent the last few days relaxing beside the Evans River, not only that................... Her owner made it to 3/4 of a Century along the way.
532067


532066
 

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I Have Imaginary Friends
Patrol Hybrid.
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Happy birthday you old fart.
 
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2016 CRD wagon
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Happy birthday Ross🎂
 
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