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2002 Nissan Patrol GU3 ZD30DI wagon
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Hi all, does anyone have an experience with the GFB (Go Fast Bits) VNT Boost Controller version 2 as an alternative to a Dawes or Tilix valve and seperate needle valve set-up? This all-in-one GFB looks very appealing and looks to be about the same price as buying the seperates. If anyone has installed one in their Patrol (or other), I'd be very interested to hear whether you are happy with it. Thanks, Stephen


512584
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi all, does anyone have an experience with the GFB (Go Fast Bits) VNT Boost Controller version 2 as an alternative to a Dawes or Tilix valve and seperate needle valve set-up? This all-in-one GFB looks very appealing and looks to be about the same price as buying the seperates. If anyone has installed one in their Patrol (or other), I'd be very interested to hear whether you are happy with it. Thanks, Stephen


View attachment 512584
Interesting, had not heard of this particular thing, everyday is something different these days. Look forward to your write up.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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This looks like a two needle arrangement, in one item.
You can possibly get the same result with just 2 - $5 - chinese needles.
Like Gee, Looking forward to hear from your tests to come .
 

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Hi guys,

Installed this today and the process was pretty simple. I'll run through what I did here.

I had a couple of thoughts about how and where I would put it. Firstly, my initial intention was to tee off the boost guage line for my Autotecnica boost / EGT guage. I have the MAP sensor adaptor and you can see the clear line running to the sender unit:

523534


However, everything I read suggested that it is better to keep your guage and your boost controller separate. So I tapped a barb fitting into the intercooler pipe before the intercooler.

The second decision was where to put the controller. Its a great looking bit of kit, and I have seen people mount them on the bulkhead for all to see when the bonnet is opened. However, practically speaking, I've decided to zip tie it to the intake pipe. I did this to keep all the lengths of vacuum hose as short and tidy as possible. I already have a lot of **** going on in my engine bay, so this was a neat solution for me. It is still easy to access the dials and doesn't get in the way of oil changes.

523537


523536


I fired up the car and adjusted the rise rate as per the instructions. This means turning the knob anti-clockwise until the adjuster rod comes to a stop then giving it an extra 1/4 turn. I left the boost knob at minimum and went for a drive.

This was where the hiccup for this install occurred. The boost was completely uncontrolled, easily topping 16 psi and even hit about 21psi on one squirt, with the engine going in to limp mode as expected.

I decided to give GFB a call and spoke to Brett (of Go Fast Brett YouTube fame I guess), who was super helpful. He checked the specs for the unit for me and rang back with the info that the boost valve should bleed at 15 psi and that this will translate to less when combined with the vacuum line. So I should have been seeing boost values at around 10psi with the boost valve wound out.

The first step was ensuring the valve was moving freely, which it was. I then tested my vacuum line, which sucked (well) and I tested the boost valve on my unit using a rigged up guage on a compressor and came up with about 22psi. Obviously this value, even combined with vacuum, wasn't controlling max boost to where I wanted it.

The solution? On Brett's advice I cut the spring in the valve 5mm. This has given me constant 12psi boost right through the rev range with the boost adjuster wound all the way in. He is going to send me another spring which should allow me to achieve my target of around 15psi. I still have a standard exhaust with no chips or remaps.

So I am a happy camper so far and I can say thanks to GFB who willing gave me their time and expertise in order to back up their product.
 

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Hi guys,

Installed this today and the process was pretty simple. I'll run through what I did here.

I had a couple of thoughts about how and where I would put it. Firstly, my initial intention was to tee off the boost guage line for my Autotecnica boost / EGT guage. I have the MAP sensor adaptor and you can see the clear line running to the sender unit:

View attachment 523534

However, everything I read suggested that it is better to keep your guage and your boost controller separate. So I tapped a barb fitting into the intercooler pipe before the intercooler.

The second decision was where to put the controller. Its a great looking bit of kit, and I have seen people mount them on the bulkhead for all to see when the bonnet is opened. However, practically speaking, I've decided to zip tie it to the intake pipe. I did this to keep all the lengths of vacuum hose as short and tidy as possible. I already have a lot of **** going on in my engine bay, so this was a neat solution for me. It is still easy to access the dials and doesn't get in the way of oil changes.

View attachment 523537

View attachment 523536

I fired up the car and adjusted the rise rate as per the instructions. This means turning the knob anti-clockwise until the adjuster rod comes to a stop then giving it an extra 1/4 turn. I left the boost knob at minimum and went for a drive.

This was where the hiccup for this install occurred. The boost was completely uncontrolled, easily topping 16 psi and even hit about 21psi on one squirt, with the engine going in to limp mode as expected.

I decided to give GFB a call and spoke to Brett (of Go Fast Brett YouTube fame I guess), who was super helpful. He checked the specs for the unit for me and rang back with the info that the boost valve should bleed at 15 psi and that this will translate to less when combined with the vacuum line. So I should have been seeing boost values at around 10psi with the boost valve wound out.

The first step was ensuring the valve was moving freely, which it was. I then tested my vacuum line, which sucked (well) and I tested the boost valve on my unit using a rigged up guage on a compressor and came up with about 22psi. Obviously this value, even combined with vacuum, wasn't controlling max boost to where I wanted it.

The solution? On Brett's advice I cut the spring in the valve 5mm. This has given me constant 12psi boost right through the rev range with the boost adjuster wound all the way in. He is going to send me another spring which should allow me to achieve my target of around 15psi. I still have a standard exhaust with no chips or remaps.

So I am a happy camper so far and I can say thanks to GFB who willing gave me their time and expertise in order to back up their product.
I’m new to all this and have just bought a 2000 gu zd30 di and i’ve been reading and reading about NATS and the tillix/daws kit. About to buy the tillix kit but after reading this does this little unit basically replace the tillix and valve needle ?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I’m new to all this and have just bought a 2000 gu zd30 di and i’ve been reading and reading about NATS and the tillix/daws kit. About to buy the tillix kit but after reading this does this little unit basically replace the tillix and valve needle ?
Yes, I rang GFB last week and spoke to one of their technicians, I was investigating the possibility of another future development for turbo control following a conversation with a turbo specialist, and we touched on this. I don't have one so I can't comment on how they perform.
@EdMan hasn't been on for 6 months, but it may be worth a PM.
 

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2008, nissan patrol gu y61 ZD30 double tank
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Did it work? They also sell an electronic boost control kit that they say will work on diesel but in the description says no VGT/VNT turbo. Thanks I am also in the dilemma of tillix or give it a try.
 

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Great write up, it convinced me to purchase.

A question if i may, when disconnecting the hoses from the factory solenoid, and connecting them to the GFB V2 boost controller according to the markings engraved on the body of the controller, do i need to do anything with the open hose connections back at the factory solenoid ?
 

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2008, nissan patrol gu y61 ZD30 double tank
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Great write up, it convinced me to purchase.

A question if i may, when disconnecting the hoses from the factory solenoid, and connecting them to the GFB V2 boost controller according to the markings engraved on the body of the controller, do i need to do anything with the open hose connections back at the factory solenoid ?
Well after a lot of research I found the magic box on this forum... let me resume, to control and get the maximum of the VNT/VGT turbo it is more complicated than just installing a manual boost control, in order to get the maximum power for what the engine was built. To achieve that you must control air levels, and so on... keep in mind that the ECU for this car was a windows 98 development, the magic box pretty much brings everything up to date (it even includes a barometer to get the maximum efciency and power depending on altitude level!)

Also keep in mind than other cars in the segment just now are changing to this kind of motors smaller, more efficient and with this kind of turbos (twin) what actually the ZD30 was designed for.

I truly believe ZD30 is a great motor that needed to be updated!

I hope I can give it a try soon, I just finishing ordering a lot of other mechanical stuff and gadgets such as a defi smart system to monitor everything before and after installing the magic box.
 

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Well in glad you found it, seems impressive from what it's inventor writes on this forum, beyond my comprehension, I'm scratching my head to move 2-3 rubber tubes from one spot to the other

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