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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, so scored a fairly clean 04 tb 48 auto with 200 on the clock, interior has cosmetic blemishes and motor has maybe just a blown head gasket but how long is a piece of string as old owner said motor is blown but could drive it and was pressurising rad
Have a couple of Motor options laying dormant available and would do most of the work, always want a dual cab patrol as a daily and holidays
Options
Barra
Tire Vehicle registration plate Automotive tail & brake light Plant Wheel
Wheel Automotive parking light Car Automotive side marker light Tire

Ve 6bt
Td42 but would need to source a new block
That's about it also anyone have priced lately for engine swap and chop engineering
And also for gvm upgrade
Many thanks jono
 

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'14 Y61 ZD30 CRD M/T ST
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Hi all, so scored a fairly clean 04 tb 48 auto with 200 on the clock, interior has cosmetic blemishes and motor has maybe just a blown head gasket but how long is a piece of string as old owner said motor is blown but could drive it and was pressurising rad
Have a couple of Motor options laying dormant available and would do most of the work, always want a dual cab patrol as a daily and holidays
Options
Barra
Ve 6bt
Td42 but would need to source a new block
That's about it also anyone have priced lately for engine swap and chop engineering
And also for gvm upgrade
Many thanks jono
Grampa spec with near on no mods…? Don’t see many of that vintage around that still has an OE front bumper. Almost seems a shame to chop it up, but if the interior isn’t great and the motor has issues, I suppose it’s as good a candidate as any.

I would go Barra if you wanted to stay Petrol. Or a nice “built” TB48 with a turbo.

TD42 is archaic and overrated and 6BT is too heavy. Honestly, if I was doing a diesel swap I’d seriously look into what the guys in Europe are doing with BMW motors, or something like a OM642 from a Sprinter van. Or if a 4-cyl diesel is sufficient, the 4JJ seems like a good option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Grampa spec with near on no mods…? Don’t see many of that vintage around that still has an OE front bumper. Almost seems a shame to chop it up, but if the interior isn’t great and the motor has issues, I suppose it’s as good a candidate as any.

I would go Barra if you wanted to stay Petrol. Or a nice “built” TB48 with a turbo.

TD42 is archaic and overrated and 6BT is too heavy. Honestly, if I was doing a diesel swap I’d seriously look into what the guys in Europe are doing with BMW motors, or something like a OM642 from a Sprinter van. Or if a 4-cyl diesel is sufficient, the 4JJ seems like a good option.
Yeah I was looking for an om606 and missed one
( by 5 mins) in car for dirt cheap and log books but haven't kept looking time poor atm
Cummins need at least 15 to get it in the car
Do alot of heavy towing so needs to be early torque and happy as a pig
and the euro 3 ltrs need abit to get going, so yep don't know at this stage
 

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Generally How much for engineering
Best off calling the engineers in your area as they are few and far between and can vary greatly is cost.
I had my 4jj1 engineered into a GQ including a GVM upgrade, steering wheel, seats, long arms, superior superflex arms and it cost $1200.
I think the the engine swap was around $850.
The other engineer in my area wanted $1600 for the engine part.
However he does have 'access' to a private road for swerve testing so he is a good option for suspension lift engineering.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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My understanding is that you can get a GVM upgrade for a GU at 3550kg, depending on who you talk to. This is without doing crazy stuff like new diffs or 3 axle's etc.

If you want some dual cab advice, things have changed a lot in the last few years. People like me have realised where we went wrong, and how you can get it right the first go. And approving engineers have followed suit with things like extra body mounts etc. 10 years ago most of us did not do it, and it was approved that way, but now it is mandatory for many certifiers. Chassis bracing, GVM, weight distribution and chassis length is all very important. Nigel has a build thread going for his new vehicle, and there is a lot of good info in there. Have a look.

By all accounts the 4.8 petrol is a great engine. The only downside appears to be fuel consumption. Only you will know if you want to go diesel or not. If you are not bothered by petrol it is worth considering keeping the 4.8. Fixing it will be cheaper than a conversion.

You have a very nice gearbox, the best offered in a Patrol in my opinion. It is really good. With a conversion you would lose it, unless you match it to a TD42 which is a very expensive job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Best off calling the engineers in your area as they are few and far between and can vary greatly is cost.
I had my 4jj1 engineered into a GQ including a GVM upgrade, steering wheel, seats, long arms, superior superflex arms and it cost $1200.
I think the the engine swap was around $850.
The other engineer in my area wanted $1600 for the engine part.
However he does have 'access' to a private road for swerve testing so he is a good option for suspension lift engineering.
Wow 1200 seems pretty damn good, how long have u had the 4j in for, I'll start looking once I'm closer as to which way I go
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My understanding is that you can get a GVM upgrade for a GU at 3550kg, depending on who you talk to. This is without doing crazy stuff like new diffs or 3 axle's etc.

If you want some dual cab advice, things have changed a lot in the last few years. People like me have realised where we went wrong, and how you can get it right the first go. And approving engineers have followed suit with things like extra body mounts etc. 10 years ago most of us did not do it, and it was approved that way, but now it is mandatory for many certifiers. Chassis bracing, GVM, weight distribution and chassis length is all very important. Nigel has a build thread going for his new vehicle, and there is a lot of good info in there. Have a look.

By all accounts the 4.8 petrol is a great engine. The only downside appears to be fuel consumption. Only you will know if you want to go diesel or not. If you are not bothered by petrol it is worth considering keeping the 4.8. Fixing it will be cheaper than a conversion.

You have a very nice gearbox, the best offered in a Patrol in my opinion. It is really good. With a conversion you would lose it, unless you match it to a TD42 which is a very expensive job.
Yeah the box has the best ratios by far, how much would you say, for the re5 convo, with the right convertor for spec td.
Initially thought I can't loose as if I sell box id have nearly my money back and have a decent roller, and the chassis still has like a protective coating before you see the paint !
Have toyed with the idea of of transplanting bitsa in but she owes me lots of time and energy and is touch wood running fairly sweet, but don't know
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Yeah the box has the best ratios by far, how much would you say, for the re5 convo, with the right convertor for spec td.
Initially thought I can't loose as if I sell box id have nearly my money back and have a decent roller, and the chassis still has like a protective coating before you see the paint !
Have toyed with the idea of of transplanting bitsa in but she owes me lots of time and energy and is touch wood running fairly sweet, but don't know
A heck of a lot. Compushift will cost about $2500 from memory and a converter will be minimum $1800 depending on your engine spec. Plus flex plate, high volume oil pan etc. So you are looking at about $5k as a base price. If your engine has a lot of torque then the prototype converter I am testing now would be a good option, but I am told if it becomes a production item it will retail for about $4500 on its own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So for 200kw td we're at 9.5k or do we add rebuilding box as well
I know from talking with wholesale for the 4l80 for the cummins they range between 16 - 20k 1200nm - 2000nm if I remember correctly, and the I know of 1 that blew a 1200nm convertor and however it happened should have had the beefier model, so will now be another 8.5k please .
 

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Well from my experience, if you have an engine making 200 kw at the wheels, then you will be at 700nm or more. So at that level I would not be using a second hand box with a lot of kms already on it.

So a good rebuild will cost $2k or more depending on what you do to it. In my case, I had a full rebuild, including uprated clutches and heat treating, and I think it was $4600. I do not know what Wholesale charge for theirs. But doing the extra mods over stock is a good idea if you are making 650nm or more. For an extra $1500 over a normal rebuild it is worth doing. No valve body mods needed, so no cost there, as the Coumpushift does what a modded valve body would do, only better.

And off the top of my head, you would be looking at about $8k for the kit, depending on the final cost determined of the prototype converter. Rodney suggested it would be $4500, but that was a "suggested" price, given the cost of cores and the work involved. It may be more or less in the end, depending on a few things, final spec included. Testing has not been finished but it is looking good so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well from my experience, if you have an engine making 200 kw at the wheels, then you will be at 700nm or more. So at that level I would not be using a second hand box with a lot of kms already on it.

So a good rebuild will cost $2k or more depending on what you do to it. In my case, I had a full rebuild, including uprated clutches and heat treating, and I think it was $4600. I do not know what Wholesale charge for theirs. But doing the extra mods over stock is a good idea if you are making 650nm or more. For an extra $1500 over a normal rebuild it is worth doing. No valve body mods needed, so no cost there, as the Coumpushift does what a modded valve body would do, only better.

And off the top of my head, you would be looking at about $8k for the kit, depending on the final cost determined of the prototype converter. Rodney suggested it would be $4500, but that was a "suggested" price, given the cost of cores and the work involved. It may be more or less in the end, depending on a few things, final spec included. Testing has not been finished but it is looking good so far.
Thanks mate I'm sure the auto would soothe out some harmonics aswell, be good to see some testing somehow @OldMav 😓
 

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Thanks mate I'm sure the auto would soothe out some harmonics aswell, be good to see some testing somehow @OldMav 😓
Peter can comment on this himself if he sees it, but there is no definite answer on that question as far as I know.

However, Wholesale do there own testing for their converters, and one of the things they look for is oil pressure in the gearbox. Early on in the process Rodney talked to me about how they set the converter up to minimise "pulsing" of the oil pressure. The 3L is much worse than the 4.2 for this. So they design the converters to give them a stable oil pressure, with limited fluctuation.

What causes this pulsing is the crankshaft harmonics. So by reducing oil pressure fluctuation, you should in theory also be reducing stress on the crankshaft. As we know, flywheel weight is a big factor, and it would appear that the converter can have the same effect.
 
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