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Do the mods. If you have money to burn ditch the uni chip and get an ecu remap. When this is done you can have them stop the MIL light from coming up on the dash for the insufficient egr flow fault.

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2006 gu4

hi guys,
I just purchased a 2006 GU4 with the 3.0 engine with 115k kms on the clock.
Reading about the NADS modifications make me feel a little worried about the reliability of my new ride.
What makes the exhaust temperatures so high besides the EGR system and at wich rpm does it happen?
my first to do mods i thought of are:
- ECU chip to 190hp
- get a Turbosmart actuator installed for a stable boost
- blanking the EGR system ( where is it located on a 2006 model?)
- catch can

Is this a good start or does the chiptuning and the actuator just make it worse?

sorry for possible grammar mistakes, Belgium needs help with the ZD30 too :D
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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hi guys,
I just purchased a 2006 GU4 with the 3.0 engine with 115k kms on the clock.
Reading about the NADS modifications make me feel a little worried about the reliability of my new ride.
What makes the exhaust temperatures so high besides the EGR system and at wich rpm does it happen?
my first to do mods i thought of are:
- ECU chip to 190hp
- get a Turbosmart actuator installed for a stable boost
- blanking the EGR system ( where is it located on a 2006 model?)
- catch can

Is this a good start or does the chiptuning and the actuator just make it worse?

sorry for possible grammar mistakes, Belgium needs help with the ZD30 too :D
If it's an 06 yours 'should' be a DI not a CRD, this is the CRD section. Anyway forget the turbosmart boost control I wouldn't piddle on it if it was on fire, go for either a Dawes and Needle or Tillix and needle and follow instructions you will find in the DI section. It's going cost a bit and you'll need a bit more than a chip to get to 190Hp mate. I would suggest you go into the DI section and read up on what we do, start with this where there are explanations on most things you ask, http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/3-li...d30-di-heres-nads-steps-logic-diagrams-88214/
 

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Hello all,

I have a 2015 GU with 3inch exhaust, Dawes and needle valve, DP Chip. I have my Autotecnica gauge showing 12psi where my scan gauge shows 15psi, which one is accurate?

Also, my EGT gauge starts at 200 degrees although it does not move while driving. I removed it and added heat through a lighter and it moved the needle to 400 and I stopped Anyone experienced this? And how can I fix it?

Cheers!
 

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nissan gu patrol
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I've tried a SAAS gauge, Autometer gauge and an Ultragauge (like a scangauge). The Ultragauge and the Autometer usually read about +/- 1psi, but my SAAS was about +2psi under the Ultragauge.

I would believe the scangauge before the Autotecnica gauge.

Where is the EGT gauge probe installed?
 

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Cheers,

The probe is just behind the turbo in an existing bung. Maybe 100 - 150mm from the turbo.

I put a new probe in today and it did not rectify my problem.

Maybe I'll try a clamp on probe to see if I can get it working..
 

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In essence are the suggested improvements listed here needed because either (i) the engine runs too hot or (ii) because it runs too hard or (iii) because runs a smaller motor in a big body or (iv) a combination of all of the above?

I'm not a mechanic ( so the suggestions here sort of concern me) and I'm wondering if you need to be to be able to afford the suggested changes and to maintain the car.

It seems a number of the suggested changes are to lower running temperatures as this seems a reason why the early versions of this engine failed. The exhaust increase is a common one it seems to let the gases get away more quickly and lower temperatures.
 

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In essence are the suggested improvements listed here needed because either (i) the engine runs too hot or (ii) because it runs too hard or (iii) because runs a smaller motor in a big body or (iv) a combination of all of the above?

I'm not a mechanic ( so the suggestions here sort of concern me) and I'm wondering if you need to be to be able to afford the suggested changes and to maintain the car.

It seems a number of the suggested changes are to lower running temperatures as this seems a reason why the early versions of this engine failed. The exhaust increase is a common one it seems to let the gases get away more quickly and lower temperatures.
Non of the above mentioned items are MUST do's, just recommend.
As the CRD gets older there are more and more doing high kms with none of the above mods.
If cost is an issue I would say that all you need is a good catch can and an exhaust.

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Thanks for the advice. I want to be informed and all this stuff helps. There are pro's and con's with everything and every car, sounds like many more pro's than con's.

Cheers, Stevo62
 

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Here is a bit of info that might explain a few things about Pre fuel Filters , 2 MIcron to 30 Micron filters and why you use them and how,

The pre-filter kit is placed before the original equipment filter. It’s more coarse (at 30 microns) compared to most standard filters (at five microns) and incorporates a water separator to prevent water travelling into the injectors and lines. The tap at the bottom of the glass viewing bowl allows easy draining of water, while the replaceable cartridges simply push on and off for fast replacement.
The idea of pre-filtering is to get rid larger-diameter foreign particles (fungus, rust, scale and dirt, as well as water) that would quickly clog the OE filter, rendering it useless. It potentially prevents dirty fuel from flowing into the injector lines and ultimately blocking or fouling the injectors.

i hope this helps
 

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So you have a CRD, you're not sure if you should do some modification to the motor to make it better? Read below before posting a thread.

1) Install boost and EGT (exhaust gas temperature, AKA Pyro) gauges. This is to monitor the motor trends of your Patrol. It will not stop a mishap, but it will give you a better understanding of how your motor works and how your driving effects the motor. Keeping an eye on the EGT is more important than boost, as the ECU already monitors this and controls it better than the DIs. This is considered to be the must do thing.
It may cost between $100-$400 for quality gauges and mounting hardware

2) Install an exhaust system, something with a highflow catalytic converter and muffler and a diameter or 2.75" or 3". This will reduce the overall EGT and potenitally bring on boost better so it can give more power and reduce fuel usage.
Ranges from $500-$1200 or more depending on your wants, requirements or quality. Off the shelf systems are fine.

3) Chip/Power Module, only tunable ones from repudable brands with service and warranty should be used. Some plug and play ones that cannot be tuned may provide little benefit or hurt your engine.
If you can get the module tuned professionally, then do so. $800-$2000 depending on module abilities, service, warranty and brand

4) Block the EGR (exhaust gas recirculator), it is considered better to block the EGR, but this may be illegal to do, it may or may not void insurance depending on your insurance policy and if the claim is attributed with the blocking. This is supposed to keep your oil cleaner for longer as it will stop the exhaust's carbon and burnt minerals re-entring the engine and contaminating the oil, but its not really quantified and most likely you should still be servicing and inspecting your car every 10,000km so it may be irrelevant. The system is only fitted for emission reduction. Some users of the EGR block report having issues with fault codes and boost related problems.

As little as DIY for nothing, or somewhere around $100 including fitting.

5) Install a catch can, this will stop oily junk re-entering the intake, sticking into the intercooler thus creating airflow resistance through the intake.
Can be done for $40 or could be $200 if paying for fitting.

6) Keep an eye on the airfilter and fuel filter, drive it and enjoy it.
Cost of filter and fuel to drive it ;)
I have a GU7 and I am about to in stall an EGT & Boost gauge. My question is: Where is the best recommended position for the EGT probe? Before or after the turbo. Also, has the 2012 GU7 already got a factory fitted bung somewhere for just that purpose?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have a GU7 and I am about to in stall an EGT & Boost gauge. My question is: Where is the best recommended position for the EGT probe? Before or after the turbo. Also, has the 2012 GU7 already got a factory fitted bung somewhere for just that purpose?
This question used to get asked a lot, basically the vast majority are installed in the exhaust around 50-100mm away from the turbo flange, we conducted surveys years ago on EGT for both DI and CRD, results are in the archives. The difference between pre turbo and post turbo is around 120c, this gives us an aimed maximum of 550c for a DI and 650c for CRD.

There is a lot of info in the zd30 archives, much of what is in the DI Archives relates to CRD as well. Worth a read.
 

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This question used to get asked a lot, basically the vast majority are installed in the exhaust around 50-100mm away from the turbo flange, we conducted surveys years ago on EGT for both DI and CRD, results are in the archives. The difference between pre turbo and post turbo is around 120c, this gives us an aimed maximum of 550c for a DI and 650c for CRD.

There is a lot of info in the zd30 archives, much of what is in the DI Archives relates to CRD as well. Worth a read.
I saw a youtube video recently suggesting that the probe is best installed in the exhaust manifold before the turbo. That is understandably the hottest part of the exhaust and will give a more accurate reading.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I saw a youtube video recently suggesting that the probe is best installed in the exhaust manifold before the turbo. That is understandably the hottest part of the exhaust and will give a more accurate reading.
Yes you will see that, but numbers don't lie, the reading may be different but not more accurate when you factor in the number I gave you, it is also easy and very effective to fix it in the dump pipe close to the turbo flange. Fitting it in the dump pipe also gives you an overview of all cylinders.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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I have a GU7 and I am about to in stall an EGT & Boost gauge. My question is: Where is the best recommended position for the EGT probe? Before or after the turbo. Also, has the 2012 GU7 already got a factory fitted bung somewhere for just that purpose?
Best spot is between 50 and 200mm after the turbo flange. No point having it pre turbo.
No. The factory exhaust doesn't have a threaded port. You need to do that yourself.
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Yes you will see that, but numbers don't lie, the reading may be different but not more accurate when you factor in the number I gave you, it is also easy and very effective to fix it in the dump pipe close to the turbo flange. Fitting it in the dump pipe also gives you an overview of all cylinders.
That makes sense. Thank you. I may as well upgrade the dump pipe in preparation for an exhaust upgrade and install the probe before fitting it.
 

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That makes sense. Thank you. I may as well upgrade the dump pipe in preparation for an exhaust upgrade and install the probe before fitting it.
Good thinking 99, I will assume that with a CRD you are going for a 3" system so make allowances for that when you 'upgrade' the dump pipe.
 

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Best spot is between 50 and 200mm after the turbo flange. No point having it pre turbo.
No. The factory exhaust doesn't have a threaded port. You need to do that yourself.
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Thank you. You have confirmed geeyoutoo's recommendations and I will install the probe in the dump pipe.
 
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