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So once again my front inner axle seals are leaking. Have done them about 3 or 4 times now in the last 4 or so years/ 60000kms getting ridiculous! Ive used aftermaeket and genuine seals even replaced front housing and axles as old axles were scored. Checked diff breather and its fine there not getting damaged whilst installing them etc as iam very cautious and take my time etc even when installing the cvs. Recently got a wheen alignment done and the specs were all fine according the brooks and didnt indicate a bent housing. Cant remember exactly but iam thinking that the kingpin shims top and bottom are different thicknesses thinking .2 bottom and maybe .5mm top were used for the preload off the top of my head only thing thats left really that i can think is causing this...??

Any suggestions?
 

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So once again my front inner axle seals are leaking. Have done them about 3 or 4 times now in the last 4 or so years/ 60000kms getting ridiculous! Ive used aftermaeket and genuine seals even replaced front housing and axles as old axles were scored.
Any suggestions?
King pin bearings? The shims should be ok, they are not necessarily supposed to be the same.
Otherwise I put in Marlin Crawler ecoseals (Toyota Hj61 model) in mine as the original (and original spec ones) did not stop leaking. Did not have any issues afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have a part number fintroll? They a direct fit?
 

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No the shims should always be the same unless something is bent.
Well I on the 2 Y60's I have the shims have all been different (not the same on bottom/top). The manual kind of suggests to add and remove the same ones to adjust the knuckle flange rotational force but does not state they have to be. So afaik they do not need to be the same, even when everything is straight.
 

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Originally Posted by timo_ed
No the shims should always be the same unless something is bent.




Shims are used top and bottom to a) achive correct preloads and b) to align the hub top to bottom.

the thickness of the shims are calculated using correct tools and methods. you may well wind up with 2 shims same, 2 different, thicker on bottom, thicker on top, or in many cases on an 80 series no shims at all. but most certainly not always thin on top thick on bottom...

shims are available in numerous thicknesses also to achieve correct load and distribution.
 

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Removing shims from top and adding to bottom or vice versa may keep the correct preload but raising or lowering the hub/axle assembly will change the alignment between the axle and seal which could cause early failure
To give you an idea using the numbers you quoted
Swapping your .5 top and .2 bottom shims around so it was .2 top . 5 bottom, your preload would be still be the same but you just raised the axle .3 in relation to where it runs in the seal.
.35 top and bottom would also have the same preload and again change the axle seal relationship
 

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I'm new to the GQ so not sure if it applies, but with a previous trucks the key for me has always been the kind of grease that goes in after changing the gaskets and cleaning out all the old guck.

Try using a Lithium Complex Grease with Molybdenum Disulfide, something for high temperatures, like this: Mobilgrease XHP™ Mine Series

I kept getting the regular stuff leak down the tyre in my LC-80, but then used this stuff and it's been years now and still running good 8)

My new Patrol is also marking its territory, so pretty soon I'll do the same.
 

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axle seals

I had the same problem, I ended up using Toyota 60 Series seals which are slightly smaller on the ID giving a tighter fit. Have run them for years, hasn't created any excessive wear on axle and no oil leak. Can't remember the exact size now, might even be 1mm smaller in ID. Also, I run them spring facing inwards.
Hope that helps.
 

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Make sure you lube your shaft before you slide it through the soft bit.
 

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I'm having problems with my L/H rear axle leaking as well it's in getting machined at the moment. The mechanic told me there is a certain type of grease you should use on the seals I will ask him again and get some when I pick the axle up. He also told me from his experience that genuine seals are better and if you need to tighten them that you can pull the spring out unwind it cut a bit off and put it back together but if you make them too tight you can also affect the seal cause excessive heating which can cause premature failure.
 
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