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If you drive a box you get box
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I saw a similar thread started by a member with a GU, using the Hella style LED combination lamps. I noted that they only had to do minor trimming inside the bar to fit it. Took a look at the GQ and thought "well, its all steel and chrome, so a beating with a hammer should do the job. My mate Pete gave me a hell of a hand with it (as im alright on the elec side of things, and he's the mad fabrication nutbag)

Materials you will need

A pair of Hella "DuraLED" tail lights (or the same style that are available on Ebay)
Tools to remove the bar ends (sockets, spanners etc)
Hammers / Multigrips (for persuasion of the bar end metalwork)
Hacksaw / Angle Grinder
Crimps/Cable strippers (for terminations)
Zip ties / split tubing
6mm x 25mm bolts x4 with washers or wide heads

the tail lights i got are like these, except they dont have the black caps (the whole red end clips off to reveal the screws), got them for $85/pr plus postage of fleabay



1. Remove tail lights (i left the globes/holders attached to the loom and removed the tail lights separately to start with)

2. Take the bar ends off the car, leaving the rubber bit attached is fine. The tail lights when finished will have enough room to clear the reinforcing behind the bar ends, so no modification needs doing here

3. Hammer / bend the tabs the tail lights normally screw into out of the way (being careful not to break them off as you'll need them later)

4. Using the top line of the cutout as a guide to keep the lights straight, hammer the lip over from behind to suit the light. Ideal way is to be able to put the light through sideways, it should fit through already at the step end, but closes up toward the outside. Massage it to suit. The light units will need to be able to slot in from behind but fit nicely

5. Once you're happy with the fit, use multigrips / shifter / hammer (very gently) to bend the tabs the OEM lights screw in with behind the new lights. Get the position of the lights to match the originals (slightly set back but flush)

6. Remove the new light unit, and pop out the plastic screw guides from the tabs. Get your angle grinder or hacksaw and slot from the existing holes to the (now) inner edges to make it into a slot

7. Place a 6mm x 25mm long bolt through from the front of the light, put a piece of tape / superglue in place and put on end cover. Slot the light in from behind and guide the bolts into the slots. Place the nut/washer or large head nut on and do up tight

8. Re mount the bar end to the bodywork, tightening all bolts up

9. Prepare wiring

Tail light (replacement unit) had instructions

White - Earth
Blue - Indicator
Red - Stop
Brown - Tail

Body loom

Black - Earth
Green - Indicator
Green / Yellow - Stop
Green / White - Tail

*the last two i will confirm in daylight*
*EDITED* i had them the wrong way around - the Green/White goes to the Brown on the light (parkers)

On the factory loom side of things, i cut the wires just behind the bulb holders, you could make plugs to fit onto the factory plug using spades, but im using bullet connectors should the bar end need to be detached easily. Everyone will do it differently

Pics to come tomorrow too, but the results are really good. Only thing i recommend reflector wise is one of the following

(cunning and non obtrusive) - red reflector tape cut to the shapes of the red caps on the ends of the lights

(blatantly obvious) - stick on reflectors on the rubber bar ends
 

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nissan
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:worthles:

Way to go mate.. Need to throw up some pics now for us... That was my gu that i changed over..... Mine are still going strong.
 

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If you drive a box you get box
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1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Edited first post regarding 2 of the wire colours on the loom (the green with white trace and green with yellow trace, they're correct now)

Thanks truckers_gu, it was you that inspired me to do this :)

PICS TIME!



we did the drivers side first, as it was easier to get to


then the passenger side, was so much easier once we knew what to do


from behind (drivers side). you should be able to see a bit of the massaging to the lower lip on the left hand edge of the bar end in the pic (outer end)


the slot(s) in the original mount brackets to bolt the new light to


the loom(s)


and the passenger side, found a spot up high to ziptie the loom up to away from the exhaust
 

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More than welcome Matty... Only thing i'd suggest for you mate is to make up a steel plate that covers the rear of the lights to stop any rocks being thrown up from tyres and breaking the plastic on the back of them.. Looks the goods tho mate....
I haven't had any problems with mine in water either or mud so for the price of them so far i'm really happy with them too...
 

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If you drive a box you get box
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1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cheers for that pointer mate ;)

Gotta do a tidy up of the wires a bit more, using a bit more split tubing and tape to waterproof them

Im stoked with how they are, and people behind me can actually see what im doing :p

Will take photos of them on once ive got my other SMD LED globes in from Matt (JET-6)
 

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Tape will NOT waterproof them, it will hold the water in.
If youre going to crimp it youre better off leaving them open.

Best way is to solder the wires, then some liquid electrical tape from jaycar then heatshrink it while the liquid tape is still damp.
 

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If you drive a box you get box
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1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah the only reason i did connectors for that "just if" situation (if i ever need to remove the tail lights for some reason). thanks again for good pointers :) handy to know these things sometimes
 
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