[Neesmo31]

GQ Low Range Hard/Difficult to Engage

Hey all, used low range for the first time yesterday. Selected neutral, came to a complete stop, grabbed 4H first, then depressed and tried for 4L.

Reference (1995, GQ, 4.2L petrol, Auto)

It didnt engage and was sort of stuck half way, making some grinding noises if I moved it backwards or forwards, so I stopped the engine and got it out.

I have been trying low range off and on now, seeing if it would free up a bit. Sometimes it goes in no worries, sometimes not. But mostly if I really reef it into 4L it goes in alright.

I just replaced the transfer case oil, and the oil that came out was mint as well. I currently just put new "Penrite Manual Gear Oil 80 (SAE 80W-85)"

Is there any tips for engaging this correctly? Should the car be slightly rolling if doing so?

I think it may be like this because I highly doubt it would have been in low range more than a handful of times in its life given the nature of the car and the person who I bought it off.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[MikeH]

I find slightly rolling helps but I don't have an auto.

 

[CARIB]

. Reference (1995, GQ, 4.2L petrol, Auto)

I just replaced the transfer case oil, and the oil that came out was mint as well. I currently just put new "Penrite Manual Gear Oil 80 (SAE 80W-85)".

Oil for transfer case should be ATF!

 

[Canuck]

Oil for transfer case should be ATF!

Yes, but it shouldn't make a difference in being able to engage 4L. Nissan changed to ATF after it was discovered that the higher viscosity gear oil was causing some auto hubs to engage or partially engage in 2H. I've a set of auto hubs that I pulled that can attest to this.

 

[albundy]

The low/high range selector has what I would call a frame attached to the top oftransfer case that holds the lever in place for the range selected. If your vehicle is not body lifted you won't see it, you'll have to acces it through the cab floor. It will probably need some grease or could be out of shape. This could be causing the difficulty in selecting, especially when you say it goes easier when you slam it in. Also, try nbot to engage low range while vehicle is in motion, not good for tranny or driveline.
Al

 

[Neesmo31]

Thanks guys, no body lift at all, and yeah I have been reading about people using ATF in their transfer case.

I think the reason that people were reverting to ATF was due to the auto locking hub problem (which mine doesnt have - manual hubs)

Taken from another site "Early Auto hub versions were locking in on their own in 2WD. It was found that the use of Gear oil in the transfer case was too thick and on the chain would cause it to slowly spin the front tailshaft, this would cause the CV's to spin up and bang at speed the auto hubs would lock in on you on the Freeway, ATF being thinner wouldn't do it"

I think its just never been used much, in the 15 years that the car has been alive for.

 

[ReefMagnet]

My '92 auto has the same problem, and I have changed the transfer case oil to dex III. If it gets stuck between 4L and 4H I have to turn the motor off to move it out of the neutral position otherwise it just makes horrendous grinding sounds. Only thing that works is very quickly shifting from 4H to 4L and vice versa. I think it is because the tranny is turning the output shaft in neutral with no resistive load from the drive train.

 

[Iron Horse]

You may need to stop the engine , when the stick is pulled out of 4H , the next position is Neutral . Being an Auto , the transmission will start turning again once Neutral is selected and it will then be hard to get 4L while this is happening . With a manual the clutch is engaged so the gearbox is not turning .

On edit , RM said similar while I was typing .

 

[gordonmichaellee]

What happens if?

What happens if you try it with the main selector in park rather than neutral?

Cheers Gordo'

 

[Neesmo31]

Yeah those symptoms reef are exactly the same. Thanks for the input guys, it does the same in park as well because technically the engine is still turning the gearbox internally. Good thing with manual is that yes you can totally disengage drive to the gearbox.

I guess you would not use low range that much, just for crawling up and down hills, so I could probably put up with it. Maybe do what what Iron said, stop the engine.

This morning I grabbed neutral on the auto, just slipped D for a second and got the car slightly rolling, back to neutral, and selected 4L with the car slightly rolling and it went in fine. I will just try certain methods I think. Thanks guys.

 

[Neesmo31]

Just talked to my old man and he said it is sometimes normal to do that as the reduction gears dont always line up etc. etc.

I mean that 4L transfer is not meant to be out and in 600 times a day like a manual gearbox, so it lacks a little 'refinement' when it comes to selecting low range.

 

[Canuck]

My '92 auto has the same problem, and I have changed the transfer case oil to dex III.

I always like to keep the same oil in the tranny as the T-case if possible incase the seal between the two let loose. My auto has ATF in both the tranny and T-case. My 5 spd has Redline MTL in both tranny and t-case. It is a fully synthetic GL4 75-90 which is as thin or thinner than ATF. It also makes cold shifting at -20C, or worse, a breeze.

 

[gumbs]

Another one with an auto and the same issues (mines an old girl tho) there is 'knack' to it and you will get used to the technique after a while. It doesn't need alot of force but it just needs a very quick clean pull straight back. I had a bitch of a time with it when I first bought mine but I very rarely miss it anymore and I don't swap between low and high range very often. Once I'm in low range I won't swap back until I'm on a graded road. I normally swap down while stationary or a slight roll.

I have no idea what fluids are in my transfer so I can't comment on that.

 

[Neesmo31]

Thanks for the help guys. Feel alot better about it now

 

[Pitbull]

Another one with an auto and the same issues (mines an old girl tho) there is 'knack' to it and you will get used to the technique after a while. It doesn't need alot of force but it just needs a very quick clean pull straight back. I had a bitch of a time with it when I first bought mine but I very rarely miss it anymore and I don't swap between low and high range very often. Once I'm in low range I won't swap back until I'm on a graded road. I normally swap down while stationary or a slight roll.

Spot on gumbs , could not have said it any better as i was the same when i first bought mine .

 

[4ce_fed]

I always like to keep the same oil in the tranny as the T-case if possible incase the seal between the two let loose. My auto has ATF in both the tranny and T-case. My 5 spd has Redline MTL in both tranny and t-case. It is a fully synthetic GL4 75-90 which is as thin or thinner than ATF. It also makes cold shifting at -20C, or worse, a breeze.

I wouldn't be too worried about the seal in between the transfer and gearbox letting go as a reason to not put the correct fluid in either one. The gearbox and transfer (not 100% sure on the auto but I would think it would be the same) are separated by an air gap, like an adapter collar with a tiny drain hole where they meet. If anything I would put different colour oils in the transfer case and gearbox so you know which one is leaking if either seal goes.
Only know this as I have just recently had to split them to replace the rear gearbox seal on my 5sp! (got both done at the same time though) pr!k of a job, glad I paid the boys at Moorooka Automotive to do it for me!!

 

[Mrowka]

Yes, but it shouldn't make a difference in being able to engage 4L. Nissan changed to ATF after it was discovered that the higher viscosity gear oil was causing some auto hubs to engage or partially engage in 2H. I've a set of auto hubs that I pulled that can attest to this.

OK, dumazz question, but does that mean that one doesn't need to use ATF on a Patrol with manual locking hubs?

I'll be changing out tranny and transfer case fluids next time I change oil, so any information is useful.

 

[sudso]

OK, dumazz question, but does that mean that one doesn't need to use ATF on a Patrol with manual locking hubs?

I'll be changing out tranny and transfer case fluids next time I change oil, so any information is useful.

Gearbox oil is recommended by the manual for mine (manual trans, manual hubs.)

 

[CARIB]

OK, dumazz question, but does that mean that one doesn't need to use ATF on a Patrol with manual locking hubs?

I'll be changing out tranny and transfer case fluids next time I change oil, so any information is useful.

It depends on the year of manufacture of the vehicle.

The recommendations for Transfer lubricant for models built after October 1991 is Dextron III

 

[Canuck]

I wouldn't be too worried about the seal in between the transfer and gearbox letting go as a reason to not put the correct fluid in either one. The gearbox and transfer (not 100% sure on the auto but I would think it would be the same) are separated by an air gap, like an adapter collar with a tiny drain hole where they meet. If anything I would put different colour oils in the transfer case and gearbox so you know which one is leaking if either seal goes.
Only know this as I have just recently had to split them to replace the rear gearbox seal on my 5sp! (got both done at the same time though) pr!k of a job, glad I paid the boys at Moorooka Automotive to do it for me!!

That is good to know. I assumed it was like the Land Cruiser set-up. There is an advatage to keeping the same oil in the t-case as in the gear box. It means I carry the same lube for the T-case as the tranny. The Oct 91 and earlier T-cases call for a GL-4 oil. The Redline MTL meets this for both the T-case and tranny. My 92 Auto has ATF in both. Although, I could also use the Redline MTL. It is not thick enough to get the front prop shaft turning while it provides the lube of a 75W90 GL-4 oil.

I am wondering if the T-case problems that people are experiencing is because they are putting in GL-5 gear oil into the T-case? My FSM is clear that the T-case is supposed to have a GL-4 oil. I know here, a lot of shops just dump GL-5 gear oil into everything which causes a lot of shifting problems and eventually repairs to the owner.