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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I put up a post a while ago now about power to the rear of the GQ patrol and asked where everyone was putting their switch panels etc. I have now finished mine and I'm just going to post some photos and info to give other people some other ideas on what you can do.

I used 6mm ply wood and shaped it off the old quarter panel trims so they came out as a very similar shape, I than cut/drilled out all of the necessary holes/slots for the switch panels I chose and for the way I mounted the trims. I than covered them in some vinyl that's the same colour as the rest of the cars trim for the factory fresh look (trim came from Annvid Auto Upholsterers at Capalaba Brisbane QLD). In the photos you will see stainless screws holding the panels on, these are NOT self tapping screws because I will avoid using them at all costs so they're M5x0.8 threaded machine screws. Obviously I need a thread to screw these into so I used all the standard holes (which are there to hold the old trims via the clips that are in the trim) and put M5x0.8 nutserts straight into the holes with no drilling or anything (a nutsert is like a pop rivet with a thread in it and you will need a special gun to do it, google it). I chose the baintech panel on the left side rear trim because that was the side the fridge was going and I needed to make a cut in the steel behind the trim to allow this to fit (can be easily avoided by using a different switch panel but it was easy as I just carefully marked it out and drilled the corners of the cut and cut it with a grinder). I have one 50 amp circuit breaker at the front near the second battery and separate circuit breakers for each circuit at the back.

For the fridge slide I used 18mm ply and fixed it using all the standard threads in the floor (because I hate selp tapping screws and new holes in my car). I than used similar coloured carpet and fixed the slide to the false floor (the 18mm bit of ply which you can use self tapping screws in and gives an even surface), nice and simple but that's how I wanted it because it allows me to still put large objects in the back (put drawers in and there's no space to put anything else in there). Hope this is helpful to the punters and gives some people some new ideas.
 

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I trust your dash vents are clean...
nissan
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Yeah, looks real good. Nice attention to detail and a good use of otherwise dead space.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Inverter fitment update.

I have now also fitted a projecta 350w inverter in otherwise useless space (in behind the right hand rear trim panel) and fitted some power outlets too. I now use one of the switches on the right hand side panel to switch the inverter on via a 40 amp relay. I use a relay due to the fact that at maximum inverter output it could draw up to 29 amps and switches are usually only rated between 15-20 amps. Here are some photos of where I fitted the inverter and outlets. I mounted the inverter using an orginal thread for the front side of the inverter (closest to the front of the car) and I simply used a piece of steel to mount it to the back side and used hex head bolts so they didn't foul on the panel when I placed it back on.
 

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Fabulous work there mate. What size cable did you use for the inverter? I assume you ran it from the engine bay and then down the right side of the vehicle? How did you set up the panel of switches on the right? Off the same cable for the inverter or separate with a fuse block or something? Cheers
 

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Mate if you wanted to make the Machine screw heads look fancy. If you go to a good glass place they sell screws that have a thread in the center, to screw a chrome dome cover piece to hide screw head that look good. You have done a great job. Congrats.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fabulous work there mate. What size cable did you use for the inverter? I assume you ran it from the engine bay and then down the right side of the vehicle? How did you set up the panel of switches on the right? Off the same cable for the inverter or separate with a fuse block or something? Cheers
Cheers mate,

I wanted the engine bay nice and tidy so I mounted one 50 amp circuit breaker in the engine bay right near the second battery, from the second battery to the circuit breaker I ran 4 gauge wire (everything was a little overkill) and from the circuit breaker I ran two 6 gauge wires, one goes to the rear left and one rear right I terminated these wires in each rear quarter panel and mounted a power distribution block in each quarter panel (I will put a picture below if your not sure what a power distribution block looks like) and from the power distribution blocks I could than supply power to whatever I needed to which were- the switch panels, 12v cigarette outlets, and the inverter. I used 6 mm wire to power the inverter which is the wire that was supplied with it. I use one of the switches in my switch panel to control the relay that switches the inverter on and off, the reason for a relay was due to the fact that the inverter can draw up to 29 amps at maximum capacity and that's above the switches rated capacity. The switch panel came with circuit breakers for each switch so I didn't need to worry about fusing anything at the rear! On the block below the wire coming from the front is on one side and I connect everything I need power for to the other side.
 

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Mate if you wanted to make the Machine screw heads look fancy. If you go to a good glass place they sell screws that have a thread in the center, to screw a chrome dome cover piece to hide screw head that look good. You have done a great job. Congrats.
Cheers buddy,

That's a great idea because they look terrible at the moment, even if I could do that and find a black dome or something as I'm not big on the bling factor
 

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Mate....I like it....I like it a lot!:cup:

I would like to take you up on your offer of additional photo's of where you have terminated your heavy wires into distribution blocks in the rear if you have time.

Thanks again..
 

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Cheers mate,

I wanted the engine bay nice and tidy so I mounted one 50 amp circuit breaker in the engine bay right near the second battery, from the second battery to the circuit breaker I ran 4 gauge wire (everything was a little overkill) and from the circuit breaker I ran two 6 gauge wires, one goes to the rear left and one rear right I terminated these wires in each rear quarter panel and mounted a power distribution block in each quarter panel (I will put a picture below if your not sure what a power distribution block looks like) and from the power distribution blocks I could than supply power to whatever I needed to which were- the switch panels, 12v cigarette outlets, and the inverter. I used 6 mm wire to power the inverter which is the wire that was supplied with it. I use one of the switches in my switch panel to control the relay that switches the inverter on and off, the reason for a relay was due to the fact that the inverter can draw up to 29 amps at maximum capacity and that's above the switches rated capacity. The switch panel came with circuit breakers for each switch so I didn't need to worry about fusing anything at the rear! On the block below the wire coming from the front is on one side and I connect everything I need power for to the other side.
Great info you given me there mate. Forgive me for asking some of these questions as I'm an absolute numpty when it comes to autolecky stuff despite my research on the net. Is there any particular reason for preferring to use circuit breakers rather than fuses? I've heard of baintech and narva fuse blocks, are they the same thing as distribution blocks? I'm thinking that to make this whole setup work well, you need to do some planning prior to what you're going to be running at the rear and what the individual and then total sum of amps will be running along whatever cable you use, so you need to ensure it's the right size for the job yeah? I assuming the 6mm wires you ran off your fuse blocks be sufficient for inverters, cig sockets for led light, charging iPhone,iPads, camera batteries etc amp-wise?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mate....I like it....I like it a lot!:cup:

I would like to take you up on your offer of additional photo's of where you have terminated your heavy wires into distribution blocks in the rear if you have time.

Thanks again..
Both heavy wires terminate around mid way down the rear quarter panels but it really doesn't matter where you terminate inside the quarter panels just as long as the distribution blocks are easily accessible on either side. I have one photo and I have put an arrow in it so you can see where I put the distribution block.
 

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Great info you given me there mate. Forgive me for asking some of these questions as I'm an absolute numpty when it comes to autolecky stuff despite my research on the net. Is there any particular reason for preferring to use circuit breakers rather than fuses? I've heard of baintech and narva fuse blocks, are they the same thing as distribution blocks? I'm thinking that to make this whole setup work well, you need to do some planning prior to what you're going to be running at the rear and what the individual and then total sum of amps will be running along whatever cable you use, so you need to ensure it's the right size for the job yeah? I assuming the 6mm wires you ran off your fuse blocks be sufficient for inverters, cig sockets for led light, charging iPhone,iPads, camera batteries etc amp-wise?

Cheers
Cheers mate,

Their are a couple of reasons I use circuit breakers and the reasons are- Because they are resettable (if for some reason there's an overload you can manually press the circuit breaker back down and its good to go again) and I like my work nice and tidy and if you ask me a fuse holding block in your engine bay looks ridiculous.

Yes you can do some pre planning and work out what the maximum current draw could be with everything running and run wire to suit. With my setup I used 6 guage wire (13mm wire if your going metric, that's 13mm2 not cross section. This wire size looks like the size of a big straw you would get a boost juice or something) and there are two of them one left and one right and each wire is rated to 55amps which is huge overkill but its also better to have less resistance hence larger cable being better over longer distances (front to back for eg.) So to clarify your question of 6mm cable, I used 6 gauge wire not 6mm which is different as 6mm cable would be more like 10 gauge wire (smaller gauge actually means bigger wire haha stupid right) and yes with even ONE 6 gauge wire I could happily run my inverter, fridge, iphone/camera charges, led strip lights, camp lights all at once.
 

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Thanks for explanation, that really helped. One question I was asking that I just want further clarification is the size of the wires you having running off your fuse blocks/distributions panels to your lights, phones, cameras etc - what size do you use there?
Cheers
 

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Thanks for explanation, that really helped. One question I was asking that I just want further clarification is the size of the wires you having running off your fuse blocks/distributions panels to your lights, phones, cameras etc - what size do you use there?
Cheers
Okay so off the distribution blocks to the back of the switches and outlets etc I run 4mm cable to each separate switch/cigarette lighter socket and its fine as I have checked it after my first couple of trips away!
 

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Thanks mate, much appreciated, cheers
 
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