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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys I'm starting this post which will be ongoing as I complete the modifications required to get the turbo to fit as I have started an upgrade on my GQ RD28 to get it into the boost earlier, people always seem to put a bigger turbo on which makes no sense to me so I'm going the opposite way and putting something on to try and get it into the boost earlier my turbo choice is off a GU ZD30 common rail Garrett GT2052v which has a triangle flange style turbine inlet and is a variable nozzle turbo. I'm also putting a front mount on it so the first things I started with were purchasing a GU RD28 inlet and exhaust manifold not really knowing if the VNT turbo would line up with the triangle style flange on the GU exhaust manifold (Yes the GU inlet and exhaust manifolds bolt straight onto the GQ head). The first thing I did was modify the inlet pipe by cutting and spinning the inlet pipe 90 degress to the flange and tig weld to allow it to face forward for the front mount because you cant just spin it on the flange (almost square but it isn't) second thing I did was work out the turbo is no where near bolting up to the manifold in the right orientation so I made an adaptor flange to allow correct orientation of the turbo (the turbo had to be clocked differently to OEM which can be done but the nozzle ring needs to be pulled apart along with a roll pin removed so its not straight forward to change housing orientations unfortunately) I then tried bolting it on with the 10mm adaptor flange and turbo bolted to the manifold but the turbo wont go on due to it hitting the chassis at the turbine housing. Next thing I did was make another flange to suit the turbine inlet once again using 10mm thick mild steel plate (marked out using the gasket) I then bought a 45 degree piece of steam pipe from MTQ turbos in Brisbane with a few cuts on my tacks and re-orientating and then Tig welded it fully the turbo is now mounted and sitting nice with a 20mm gap to the chassis, this is what I'm up to currently and in the next few weeks I will be making a custom rod for the nozzle actuator because now that doesn't fit and seeing if I can get the oil drain to work to the OEM return in the block. Photos will be up tomorrow as I'm having trouble uploading them
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Photo updates

Here are some of the photos I have taken so far. The manifold will be sand blasted and cleaned etc so don't worry about that!
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Interesting, no absolute reason it won't work, the VNT is very good for low response. Big turbo's have a history of moving Hp and torque up the scale not down. I have researched many optional turbos over the years for my ZD30 and rejected them all for the above reasons as well as reliability factors (there are a lot of optional turbos out there assembled from low quality materials, with even lower quality control and without final calibration), with a bit of work I have max Hp at 2400rpm and max torque at 2000rpm (but it feels like 1800rpm). I know the 2.8 is vastly different to the ZD30 but I still think this is an interesting project. Stay tuned to my build thread as a new ZD30DI/CRD turbo is on the way and on paper it has masses of potential.

There is another build on here where a guy fitted two VNT to a 4.2, worked well re output but a couple of issues with build saw a big problem.

I look forward to reading more of your adventures, R&D is the spice of life ;).
 

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Cheers mate, I have owned the car for years and just put up with the low bad low down boost response which can be fixed with one of these turbos (I believe) the only thing is this turbo is fighting me every step of the way in terms of mounting, oil drain and where to mount the actuator but its nothing a bit of cutting and custom brackets and welding etc wont fix so I'm hoping it works well when its done. It will be nice to have 10psi by 1500 rpm and will plan to run 20psi if the backpressure etc doesn't hold it up. People worry about 2.8s being weak but diesels love air its too much fuel that kills them so I'm not in the slightest worried about maximum boost pressure. I'm interested to know the problems the bloke had with the TD42 VNT setup.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Cheers mate, I have owned the car for years and just put up with the low bad low down boost response which can be fixed with one of these turbos (I believe) the only thing is this turbo is fighting me every step of the way in terms of mounting, oil drain and where to mount the actuator but its nothing a bit of cutting and custom brackets and welding etc wont fix so I'm hoping it works well when its done. It will be nice to have 10psi by 1500 rpm and will plan to run 20psi if the backpressure etc doesn't hold it up. People worry about 2.8s being weak but diesels love air its too much fuel that kills them so I'm not in the slightest worried about maximum boost pressure. I'm interested to know the problems the bloke had with the TD42 VNT setup.
Project Twin VNT

Long thread you will need to go back through some of the vids he did. I put this in the GPD Archives.
 

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VNT and Cooler upgrade complete

So after a fair amount of time getting positions for turbo and cooler pipes etc correct I finally won the battle with the ZD30 GT2052v and the car is now going and I'm stoked to say it was definitely worth it. The major things that held me up were the oil feed/drain and what to do with that and the mounting position for the vein actuator but in the end it all worked and works amazingly. The car had a 3 inch exhaust and no intercooler before and it would make 5psi at 1900rpm and 12psi at 2100rpm and start pulling properly by 2000rpm, with the vnt and using a GFB Dboost v2 VNT turbo controller I have tuned the turbo to 15psi max with back pressure that doesn't bother the engine and it makes 10psi at 1400rpm and pulls hard from there to 4500rpm its bloody amazing, I can now short shift 2nd to 3rd (lets say when I hit 3rd its at 1300rpm) and it just keeps pulling and making speed up steep hills it then has 15psi by 1500rpm and the egts don't go over 300Celcius. In the end what I did with the turbo drain was buy a zd30 common rail MAMBA turbo drain kit, I then heated up the pipe to melt the silver solder and pulled the pipe out and I welded in a dash 8AN fitting and run a 90degree speedflow to barb fitting, but because the turbo sits quite low with the adaptor I had to use the vacuum pump drain fitting in the sump (my engine has the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator and the oil drain is in the sump directly below the 3/4NPT thread in the block for turbo drain) so I got a 3/4NPT to 12mm barb and put the vacuum pump hose on that and put the turbo drain into the vacuum pump drain fitting which allowed it to run downward instead of almost going up (if I were to go into the fitting in the block) the turbo feed was easy I just purchased a speedflow m14 or m12 cant remember banjo to dash 4AN adaptor and ran a braided hose to the dash 4AN line at the turbo (the mamba kit for the feed line has a dash 4AN fitting on it). For the vein actuator I faced the housing towards the block and bent the oem actuator rod slightly to get it around the vein minimum position stopper and modified the oem bracket including cutting it and drilling new holes to allow it to mount there. I had to change the position of the actuator because I had to clock the turbo to have the drain facing down. Any other questions hit me up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good stuff mate. I reckon a GQ RD28 with low down response and intercooling would b a nice drive.
Its unbelievable the change it made to driving it, you wouldn't know it was a 2.8 and it would surprise people how well it pulls up hills down low. I have been driving it and going up hills I use to go up in second and it pulls up them in 3rd from 1200rpm onwards. VNT's are something every old diesel should have!
 

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Afternoon gents im in the middle of swapping out my tb42 for rd just wondering how its going now a few months in. Considering doing the same thing.
 

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Afternoon gents im in the middle of swapping out my tb42 for rd just wondering how its going now a few months in. Considering doing the same thing.
It's bloody fantastic! I just did my first camping trip away to and it was way better then I expected, I can now put my foot down at 100kmh with a full roof rack and car and get past people in short overtaking sections which I could never do and it holds good size hills at 100kmh in 5th gear and the maximum egt i saw was 370 Celsius.
 

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It's bloody fantastic! I just did my first camping trip away to and it was way better then I expected, I can now put my foot down at 100kmh with a full roof rack and car and get past people in short overtaking sections which I could never do and it holds good size hills at 100kmh in 5th gear and the maximum egt i saw was 370 Celsius.
That's on 33x12.5s to
 

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Sold....thats it its happening ive got a gq pump and in the process of putting on the 11mm rotor head from the gu. We will see what i can push :)
 

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How much space did you have between the radiator and the intercooler? I'm intercooling the rd28 and thought about putting some SPAL pulling fans between the intercooler and the radiator to get double benefits by cooling the intercooler and the radiator at the same time. The intercooler that i'll use will be 3 inches thick and the fans would be 2 inches so are there 5 inches of space for the intercooler + the fans between radiator and the front grille?

nice build by the way, I have been reading this thread with a lot of interest!

Wish you a good day,
Amir
 
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