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nissan patrol gq
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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys got a couple of questions for you all.

firstly ive recently bent my driver side rear control arm and have decided to get some heavy duty ones. Was looking at the snake ones or the superior ones and decided to go superior but i dont know what the go is with the 10mm, 15mm and 20mm extended arms? I was just going to go iwth the standard lenght heavy duty fixed ones. The car only has a 3'' suspension lift with a 2'' body, are these arms going to be alright?

I was also looking at getting (when funds permit), some adjustable upper arms and adjustable front and rear panhards. was thinking of going tough dog for the panhards as they are relatively cheap but any suggestions on good uppers?

lastly i think ive snapped the drivers side cv and was looking to replace it this weekend. I can do the work as im a apprentice diesel mech but have never done this on a car is it a hard job or once youve got the hub off its relatively simple?

Sorry for the massive post but any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
 

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The extended control arms are so you can line up your yoke to your gearbox when you lift the suspension & also line up thr rear wheel at full tilt in your wheel arch.As for the CV joint it is pretty easy just time consuming & i would do the hub seals while your there.Either the Tough Dog or the Superior adjustable uppers are good just not cheap.Hope this is all correct & helpfull,if not there is plenty of Guru"s on here that are much smarter than me!!
 

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From what I know, which isn't a lot, the longer arms are for correcting the pinion angle after a lift, but I believe the prefered method is for the adjustable uppers and standard length lower control arms so you are heading in the right direction.

In regards to the CV's (i'll be doing mine this w'end too) its pretty easy... apart from the 52mm hub nuts, I upgraded to GU hub locking system.... but I keep shearing off the locking screws and when I went into nissan they advised that its starting to be a commen problem, but I'm still not sure if it wasn't me that has contributed to this issue.

its pretty easy, just a lot of mucking around and dirty, if you have leaky seals then change em, I'm not going to as I'm sure I'm going to break one again very soon.

But since I'm an office worker you'd already have more experience than me

Good Luck

Ash
 

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I was just going to go iwth the standard lenght heavy duty fixed ones. The car only has a 3'' suspension lift with a 2'' body, are these arms going to be alright?
Short answer, IMHO yes.
The longer answer is in other threads, I even posted the effects on wheelbase etc for all the arm lengths you have mentioned.
Do a bit of a search fella.
 

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nissan patrol 89 tb42
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hello mate, my understanding of h/duty control arms for rear is if you buy say the 20mm longer arms for the lower you dont require adjustable upper one as its puts the diff back in the nearest to o/e specs, check with sus/stuff at spingwood qld they are pretty helpful
 

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Radius arms are junk and offer minimal flex .......

Why not order some ballistic fab joints and a pile of moly tube and make a true 5-link.

Why don't Nissan guys do this more often ?, its pretty easy and give a heaps better outcome :).
 

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Radius arms are junk and offer minimal flex .......

Why not order some ballistic fab joints and a pile of moly tube and make a true 5-link.

Why don't Nissan guys do this more often ?, its pretty easy and give a heaps better outcome :).
Who mentioned radius arms?
I think we are talking about the rears and they seem to flex well.
 

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Previously known as twodiffs
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I searched this one alot...in the end I had heavy duty standard length lowers made up and will get adj uppers from Superior this year.
 

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Who mentioned radius arms?
I think we are talking about the rears and they seem to flex well.

My Bad, missed the 'rear' bit in the OP.

Even still .......... they flex well for short arms ;).

LA's ............ cant beat em.

My point still stands on the front radius arm junk tho :).
 

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Hey mate, just to put my 2 cents in :)
I have a shorty with the same setup as you mate, 3" suspension and a 2" body lift. I am just at the moment fitting adjustable panhards as the lift was making my rear drive shaft bang against my long range tank. I also have fitted adjustable upper arms (you will definately need these!!!) I have the superior ones and they are build like a tank man!! Awesome quality items. Pretty easy to fit yourself too. I just sat the thing back down on the springs with the pins out of one end of the adjustable arms and just shortened them until they lined up with the holes.

Anyway, with the adjustable uppers, panhards and standard length lowers you should be fine. Looking at mine I think I could have probably gone 10mm longer on the lowers to bring the wheel back further in the wheel arch and make it clear better but its not really an issue. Also might make the tyre hit the guard on full compression?

Hope that helps!
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cheers for the replies. I agree with the majority here and will most probably go standard length heavy duty superior engineering lowers with some other adjustable uppers (dont think ill bend uppers so probably wont buy superiors) and the adjustable panhards.

Was also wondering, after fitting how is the best way to get everything aligned? Will a tyre shop make the necessary adjustments?
 

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just be careful when you get your new arms that they are the same length found out the other day my superiour ones are different lengths.
 
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