[sierrajim]

Well as many others, summer is finally here and my Patrol has started to get warm.

Vehicle specs:
GQ TD42, turbo with 17lb, stock pump wound out, front mount cooler, 35's, bar, winch driving lights.

First up, radiator reco'd, new thermostat, new water pump, new fan (old one was cracked), new belts, checked a/c and intercooler weren't blocked with mud. No great change but at least my water pump and radiator don't leak any more.

Next I cut out the broad V sections in the fcatory grille. They appeared to be taking up nearly 10-15% of the forward facing air intake area. This seemed to help a little but still getting warm.

Then I had the bright idea I should get rid of some engine bay heat. Fitted up a GU scoop facing forwards over the turbo thinking it would blow air down. Well it works at lower speeds of upto 60kph then it must strat tp pressurise the engine bay and actually seems to work against the progress I had made. I now have 2/3rds of the scoop blocked off which seems to help.

I've been looking at redoing the intercooler piping due to the previous owners bodge job. While poking around I pulled the air filter to find that the apprentice hadn't changed it - for the last 3 services + however many K's the previous owner had done on it. Goes a tonn better and cooler EGT's.

Next step. The previous owner did a 2" body lift but did not drop the radiator 2" or move the fan shroud down to suit. Consiquently the fan isn't sealing - most likely not drawing the air it probably should. This made a huge difference on my old Hilux. On to this tomorrow.

Here's hoping every little bit helps enough to eventually sort it out ready for some more furl and some more boost.

 

[Fat Guts]

I take it is a front mount intercooler? If it is that combined with the AC consensor may be slowing and warming the air to much before the rad.

How big is the rad? Three core as a minimum would be required.

Making the fan & cowling fit correctly will go a long way to help you.

 

[purplebus]

fan replaced. did you check the fan hub, this is normally the issue. you can buy the toyota hub oil for about 10/ tube and 2 should be fine.

 

[ITS A FORD NOT A NISSAN]

first thing i would like to know is ... what do you consider warm ?

do you have a digital or analogue gauge to get the actual temps , as the factory guage isnt the best temp indicator

 

[sierrajim]

Cheers guys, the viscous hub was checked and OK. For $10 I might just throw some fan juice in just in case.

It's the stock radiator and yes, the intercooler and AC will be warming the air before it hits the radiator. Not much I can do about this without changing out to either a top mount (much smaller core than the current front mount) or a water to air which are either:

a) laminova - $$$
b) unproven cheapies

Warm. Normal running is now at around 1/4, under load on a cool day it sits at 1/2, hot day (40 deg) loaded to the roof with heavy sound gear + 2 kayaks on the roof had the needle sitting at over 2/3 with no AC or 3/4-7/8 with the AC on.

 

[TB45_Bruce]

Cheers guys, the viscous hub was checked and OK. For $10 I might just throw some fan juice in just in case.

It's the stock radiator and yes, the intercooler and AC will be warming the air before it hits the radiator. Not much I can do about this without changing out to either a top mount (much smaller core than the current front mount) or a water to air which are either:

a) laminova - $$$
b) unproven cheapies

Warm. Normal running is now at around 1/4, under load on a cool day it sits at 1/2, hot day (40 deg) loaded to the roof with heavy sound gear + 2 kayaks on the roof had the needle sitting at over 2/3 with no AC or 3/4-7/8 with the AC on.

from memory, (check by search) the mark at the bottom of hot is around 110C on many gauges that have been checked. That is not really a problem if your rad cap is pressurising to spec, especially if you have 33-50% glycol (33% will give best heat transfer). From memory again, boil is about 129C so you still have a good safety margin.

 

[ITS A FORD NOT A NISSAN]

yeah try the silicon in the hub and drop the radiator down so you can fit the bottom of the shrowd , if that doesnt work ... then considering as it seems you have replaced everything or recoed everything , the next thing i would try is to fit a hotter thermostat , an 88 deg or 91 deg should stop the temps from hitting the top of the guage

 

[Chopz]

Have you also thought about reversing the GU scoop you put on so face it backwards as opposed to forwards, just to encourage a bit of airflow through the engine bay. Not sure on the legality issues or the like but it has to help.

Whats considered a "worrying" level on the factory temp gauge by the way, mainly for my own interest, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4?

 

[sierrajim]

Ran out of time over the weekend to get anything done.

Question is, do I drop the radiator 2" to compensate for the body lift (keeping in mind that the overflow bottle will be 2" higher than teh radiator) or do I drop the fan shroud on the radiator?

 

[Fat Guts]

Ran out of time over the weekend to get anything done.

Question is, do I drop the radiator 2" to compensate for the body lift (keeping in mind that the overflow bottle will be 2" higher than teh radiator) or do I drop the fan shroud on the radiator?

Drop both. If you dont have good coverage from the shroud the fan cant do its job properly. If you just drop the shroud it may improve it but then the top two inches of radiator will not really be contributing to your cooling all that well.

 

[FIG JAM]

Have the actual temperature checked independent of the original gauge. Otherwise you may spend a lot of time and money chasing a non existent problem.

 

[Evo's GU]

I know most people on here are going to be against what i say but here it is,

I run electric fans. I had a MQ with a 350 chev with EF falcon fans, perfect. Next was my 2.8TD GU used to run a little warm off road in low range, AU falcon fans, perfect. Now i have a my RB30 GQ used to run warm towing, in traffic, in low range, a/c on, etc wasn't over the top or a worry but when that fan locked in it was even slower than ever and chewed petrol worse than the 350 MQ, fitted EF falcon fans on a Daves Craig thermatic switch and she runs perfect in fact if i drive on a warm day without the air on and dont have to stop they never come on and temp stays just above 1/4, my switch is set at 100c which appears to be half on my guage, my thermostate is a 92c. I have it set up so when the a/c comp. is running 1 fun that is closest to the top hose runs and the temp stays normal and never moves even off road in low range and when its around 38c outside.

Just my 2c worth.

I have ran Falcon twin thermos on every car/truck i have ever bult and they have never let me down.

 

[sierrajim]

Has anyone else run the falcon thermo's on a TD42?

Have some here off my old Hilux.

 

[Troyyyy]

ive got some thermo fans to hook up where can i get a thermo switch??

 

[sierrajim]

ive got some thermo fans to hook up where can i get a thermo switch??

I've always just used Burson or Repco for that stuff.

 

[SpiderM]

ive got some thermo fans to hook up where can i get a thermo switch??

We used to wire them up with an overide switch too. You can turn them off for water crossings as well then.

Just a thought.

 

[Troyyyy]

is it nessasery to run the thermo switch with a relay? just looking at the daves craig web page the two mechanical kits one has a relay one does not?

 

[Troyyyy]

went and picked up a thermo switch and the relays i need pulled the thermos out of a el falcon now to just mount it all up

 

[Evo's GU]

We used to wire them up with an overide switch too. You can turn them off for water crossings as well then.

Just a thought.

This is my next step as mine is petrol and it wets all the plugs and dizzy.

Great idea!!

 

[Evo's GU]

is it nessasery to run the thermo switch with a relay? just looking at the daves craig web page the two mechanical kits one has a relay one does not?

I have set mine up just like ford had them in the EF with 3 relays.
1 for each fan, so if 1 fails you still have the other and 1 that is activated by the a/c clutch as you need air flow through the condensor or it will over heat and over preasurise the gas and the compressor locks up, found ouyt from experice years ago,lol

It is best to make the fan closest to the top hose the one that comes in with the a/c as this is where the hotest water is and will take the heat out first, i have mine like this and when driving with the a/c on the other fan never comes in because this one is enough.