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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
hi all

i have researched quite a lot, and i have to say that i am now more confused on the subject of turbos than i was before i started.

i need it broken down into basic things, and info about it.

i want to turbo my td42, about 280000 on the clock, and to my knowledge, all the engine is in good order. i want to make the rite decision first, and will last.

now, im only chasing about 12psi (i dont need anything extreme, just wanna tow the camper better and improve economy)

so, what do i need? my understanding is
  • ball bearing turbo is a must
  • water and oil cooled is a must
  • will have a 3" dump and exhaust (i read somewhere about a 3" flange so there is no adapter flange thingo to make it a true 3" system)

but i have no idea about things like .64 hot side, what is that? i have seen .80 somewhere as well. and whats better, low-mount or hi-mount? im after a bit of boost low in the range, and still at highway, so i have some go to overtake when needed.

there are many more questions, but i cant think of them at the moment, as this has done my head in.

cheers

jbates58
 

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The nutty professor
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hi all

i have researched quite a lot, and i have to say that i am now more confused on the subject of turbos than i was before i started.

i need it broken down into basic things, and info about it.

i want to turbo my td42, about 280000 on the clock, and to my knowledge, all the engine is in good order. i want to make the rite decision first, and will last.

now, im only chasing about 12psi (i dont need anything extreme, just wanna tow the camper better and improve economy)


so, what do i need? my understanding is
  • ball bearing turbo is a must
  • water and oil cooled is a must
  • will have a 3" dump and exhaust (i read somewhere about a 3" flange so there is no adapter flange thingo to make it a true 3" system)
but i have no idea about things like .64 hot side, what is that? i have seen .80 somewhere as well. and whats better, low-mount or hi-mount? im after a bit of boost low in the range, and still at highway, so i have some go to overtake when needed.

there are many more questions, but i cant think of them at the moment, as this has done my head in.

cheers

jbates58

a ball bearing turbo isnt a must , its just nicer to have , and spools up a little quicker
water gooling isnt a must , you just have to watch your egts before you shut down the motor
a 3 inch exhaust isnt essential but it is better for egts and spool up rates so it is a plus, the outlet on the rear of the turbo is generaly 2 to 2 1/2 inches but that wont mater

the other figures like .64 exhaust etc just state the size of the turbo

a gt2860 (sleeve bearing) or gt 2860rs (roller bearing) will be fine for what you want, but a roller bearing turbo needs water cooling where a sleeve bearing turbo doesnt need water cooling

hope that helps



i should add that all turbos are oil cooled, well the oil helps with cooling,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
why is a ball bearing micer to have? what are the pros and cons to it? i will be fitting a turbo timer of some sort to help cool it, and whats better, .64 or .80? and whats the difference between sleeve bearing and roller bearing tubos?
 

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The nutty professor
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why is a ball bearing micer to have? what are the pros and cons to it? i will be fitting a turbo timer of some sort to help cool it, and whats better, .64 or .80? and whats the difference between sleeve bearing and roller bearing tubos?
ballbearing turbo
pro
a ball bearing turbo spins up a bit faster so you build boost a bit quicker, takes less oil to lube the bearings, can get a nicer turbo whistle at idle

cons
they must have water cooling, bearings cant be replaced (on most anyway)

sleeve bearing

pro
does not need water cooling (for diesels anyway)but still can be used, cheaper, can replace the bearings

cons
slightly longer spool up rate (hardley noticeable tho), takes longer to cool down if you dont have water cooling on it

.64 exhaust size is what your after, any bigger and it wont boost till higher in the rpm range


and i wouldnt worry about a turbo timer unless you use a sleeve bearing turbo without water cooling, just go by your egt guage , when it drops below 200 deg it should be fine to shut down
 

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Discussion Starter #5
and internal vs external wastegate?
 

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The nutty professor
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most turbos have an internal waste gate which is easier to set up, an external waste gate will require a seperate tube comming from before the turbo which would only be a custom type job on a td42
 

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.64 exhaust size is what your after, any bigger and it wont boost till higher in the rpm range
Personally, I think you want a .64 for weekend stuff or a .86 if you plan on touring or sustained highway speeds due to heat build up.
 

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I think really the easiest and beat way for those who are just looking for a nice power upgrade an dont feel confident in their decisions or feel slightly over whelmed by the whole situation. Is to go a premade kit thru te likes of dts or turboglide. Takes most of the guess work out of it. And will good good results and be very straight forward to install. Just my feeling anyway. And most turbo places will give more than satisfactory results for what u are wanting to so with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i have thought about it benos, but i perfer to choose my bits and peices, then i know that it will be rite for what i want. A mate on mine suggested the disco potato (a garret turbo vant remember the model). And he said that its the best turbo to put on the td42. Is this true? And i might not need a turbo timer but i will use one anyway, as it will only prolong the life of the engine and turbo. And im after a loud and noticible whistle all the time, so i think i will go ball bearing. Whats the life expectancy on the bearings? If they will die quick as, then i'll go sleeve, but if they get long life, then i will use ball bearing. And another mate of mine has a t4/t5 hybrid thats hi-flowed. What sorta turbo is that? And is it any good. From memory its a dts by mtq. And what sort of manifold should i use? A log cast style, or a tuned stule? And should i go for hi-mount or low-mount? What are the pros and cons to that?
 

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i have thought about it benos, but i perfer to choose my bits and peices, then i know that it will be rite for what i want.
I appreciate that you'd like to do it yourself but, from statements you've made in this thread, something like the Turboglide set-up (or similar) is perfect for your needs.

If you stick to what you say you want then you will end up with the same or similar set-up, it'll cost you more, it won't have the nice cast tubing and you won't get a 2 year guarantee.

Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
and what are the pwr w2a coolers like? I have found what i think is a full kit for a good price. It has the rad, tthermo, pwr cooler thing (i assume that goes on the intake manifold) and i like the idea of water cooling. Is there any negatives to it? I use it in my pc, and it works a treat.
 

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and what are the pwr w2a coolers like? I have found what i think is a full kit for a good price. It has the rad, tthermo, pwr cooler thing (i assume that goes on the intake manifold) and i like the idea of water cooling. Is there any negatives to it? I use it in my pc, and it works a treat.
Useless.

1 word for you. Laminova. But then again, you get what you pay for.

And what was said before. Get a kit. You aren't looking to setup a powerhouse at only 12psi. I think you are WAY too confused as to what you need and what you want.
 

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Lol,jbates way too many questions...
Ok il try to give you some of the answers you are seeking.
High or low mount=personal choice i havnt seen anything that would lean that 1 or the other givesmore power.
T4,t5 is a garret turbo as to it being a hybrid its a mixture of the model 4 and 5 thats all.From memory there good for well over 600hp not really what your lookin for in a fwd.
Hiflowed turbos well they sound good and thats only because they will spool up alot faster due to work thats been done on the fins hiflow means that hiflow.
Bearings,well i will say this people can say what they want about ball bearing or sleeve bearings being from a fitter &machinist background there are alot of furfeis should i say bout the info that people post regarding this issue.
The both have up and down sides to what is the BEST to use,it comes down to this money,cooling and how much time you want to plow into your car.
Oh the dts kits use a Mitsubishi TDO5H so if your handy and want to save some cash and use it on other things regarding your upgrade the info is out there.
 

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I know turboglide do a gt2860rs kit but it's .86 rear housing which if your doing any kind of long distance driving is the better option. And it's ball bearing. It's most likely what il end up going. Just cause it's simple. But up to you.
 

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I know turboglide do a gt2860rs kit but it's .86 rear housing which if your doing any kind of long distance driving is the better option. And it's ball bearing. It's most likely what il end up going. Just cause it's simple. But up to you.
I had one fitted a few months back and I'm still smiling everytime I drive it.
My requirements where identical to jbates.
I tour with mine too, so I was advised against the .64 (they wouldn't guarantee that turbo on the TD42).
 

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To the OP. If you have to ask what is a good component selection you may be better off buying a pre-engineered one.
 

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mate it seems like your been reading to much,,, if you want only 12psi buy a ready to bolt on kit,,, i wouldnt stuff round, a good kit from denco, dts etc with everything and a straight through 3in with a good tune and you will be more than happy,,, throw in a water to air or air to air and you will have great bang for your buck.....
 

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mate it seems like your been reading to much,,, if you want only 12psi buy a ready to bolt on kit,,, i wouldnt stuff round, a good kit from denco, dts etc with everything and a straight through 3in with a good tune and you will be more than happy,,, throw in a water to air or air to air and you will have great bang for your buck.....
basically agree. its so easy to bolt on a kit and go from there. they are simple. and everything you need is already there.
unless your a real tight arse like me and wanna save a few pennies id just go a kit.
and to be honest after considering how much of a pi s around it is il probs just get a kit anyway.
 

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I would agree with everybody else here as well, buy a kit. The smarts, engineering, fitment and testing have already been done. Or you could peice together a kit of the same components maybe 2nd hand for cheaper if your after some change.
 

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I agree also buy a kit, you will not save money peicing one together and may not get the results you want. Also a front mount ic will be the go. The only time that egts are going to get high is when the vehicle is being driven up a hill or towing ect. at which the ic will be receiving air flow lowing intake temps. In the bush you simply chug around so intake temps are not vitaly important.

Also the whistle from a turbo is not a good thing, it can mean an imbalance or defect with a turbine. So a loud whistle from your turbo is not cool, want it to whislte chip a fin in the compressor housing.
 
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