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Discussion Starter #1
So this morning I felt motivated, and decided to change the timing belt on the old 2.8.
While in there, did water pump, timing belt, tensioners, seals, new rad hoses, all new belts. radiator and thermostat changed recently.

When I ligned up all the timing marks, I noticed the injector pump was 2 teeth out.
Not knowing if the last person on the car had done this, either as an error, or to "tune" it, or if the belt had jumped teeth, I decided to reset it all back to standard.
Took a few hours to get it all done, no dramas.

Took it for a test drive, and noticed a few things.
At idle, the engine sounded different, same idle speed, just a different sound.
At start up, just a tiny puff of dark smoke, about a 1/4 of previous.
Less smoke in general.
No noticable "boost" at 2000rpm, instead a nice wave of torque, from about 1700 rpm, right up to 4000rpm.

Previously there was nothing, till 2000rpm, then it all came at once, and by 3000rpm it was all but gone.

Best way to describe it, is the differance between a 2 stroke dirt bike, and a 4 stroke.
I thought the way it ran previously, was just normal, because thats how everyone describes the power of a 2.8, but this is a lot different.

Less turbo whistle.
I woudn't say the power has increased, just the way it is delivered has smoothed out.

I am curious to know, if this is what would be expected, hopefully someone that knows about tuning diesels will reply.
Cheers,
Dan
 

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Very interesting proposition indeed!

What I don't know is how much tolerance there is for the engine to still run.

Theoretically it is possible. I stuffed up the timing on a DOHC Honda Integra.
Was out by a tooth, it ran but just didn't feel or sound right.

BennoGU28 will probably know the answer.

Cheers

Justin
 

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I would say there is no tolerance in the CAM timing as the valves would defiantly get smacked buy pistons but the injection pump is very interesting.

My 2.8 runs more like yours did with the teeth out buy 2. Not allot of anything until you get to 2000 & it boosts hard though to about 3500 anymore than 3500 & all that seems to happen is copious amounts of black smoke covering the cars behind me..

I had a new head put on all new top end back about 12months ago & I assume the mechanic put the injector timing on right but I might pull the top cover off & have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I may have to find a Diesel tuning place and get it checked out, just in case.
In the process of getting an Egt gauge, to give me some idea of whats going on.

On the way home last night, slowed down to 40 klmh on the highway, for roadworks.
cruised through in 4th gear, then accelerated all the way to 110, not mind blowing acceleration, just a smooth progressive build up of speed.

Previously it would of struggled till it got to boost.
Also noticed it seemed to pick up even more from 3500 to 4000rpm
previously, at those revs, the engine would be making noise, and not much else.

I will be keeping a close eye on fuel economy, to see what difference if any.
Dan
 

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Digging up an old thread but mine is doing pretty much what yours was doing before the timing belt replacement, trouble is though, I’ve done my timing belt and all my marks were spot on before and after

I have found another post that said when they did their timing belt they found the IP mark to be out, like yours, but when they put the marks to where they should be, it did the opposite so was underpowered.

I’ve checked timing with a scan tool and have found it to be closer to tdc at idle rather than the -9.5° to -12° it should be, so I'm almost thinking of gambling with advancing the pump a tooth and seeing what happens, worse that can happen is it’ll run like an unbalanced washing machine or wont start at all, just a bit of a headache considering having done the timing belt already, should be able to do this without pulling the balancer again though
 

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Digging up an old thread but mine is doing pretty much what yours was doing before the timing belt replacement, trouble is though, I’ve done my timing belt and all my marks were spot on before and after

I have found another post that said when they did their timing belt they found the IP mark to be out, like yours, but when they put the marks to where they should be, it did the opposite so was underpowered.

I’ve checked timing with a scan tool and have found it to be closer to tdc at idle rather than the -9.5° to -12° it should be, so I'm almost thinking of gambling with advancing the pump a tooth and seeing what happens, worse that can happen is it’ll run like an unbalanced washing machine or wont start at all, just a bit of a headache considering having done the timing belt already, should be able to do this without pulling the balancer again though
You don't need to pull the balancer to adjust the timing.
The injection timing will affect EGTs, starting ability, smoke and power. Obviously cam timing is not negotiable, or else the valves hit pistons.
A slight advance on an ageing pump is prolly not so bad.
 

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You don't need to pull the balancer to adjust the timing.
The injection timing will affect EGTs, starting ability, smoke and power. Obviously cam timing is not negotiable, or else the valves hit pistons.
A slight advance on an ageing pump is prolly not so bad.
Yeah its had starting issues before but I've rectified most of that with glow plugs and starter, fires right up most times after counting to 6 once the glow light goes out, but its more so the same symptoms as a few other people that have had lacking pump timing like high fuel use, lower power, nothing before getting on boost and then nothing again beyond 3-3500rpm and good puff of unburnt fuel on start up and smokey when trying to rev it to get anywhere
 

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I will watch this with interest...as I tow a lot...and there is SFA in the way of power below about 1800...which is a PITA when trying to start off on a slight incline with van on

Cheers Keith
 

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Yeah i can barely get up hills at 110 in 5th without ending up back at 3rd or 4th at somewhere between 65-80km/h, i do have 35’s but this is ridiculous speed loss, like you can pedal it all you want but it wont accelerate at speed up hills, like medium type hills, ill have to get egt gauge hooked up and see what thats doing too
 

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An EGT gauge is a good idea...but...the readings will scare the beejezus outa you till you get the hang of them hey. I drive mine on the EGT gauge when towing...and back off a fair bit once they hit the stratosphere when towing up long hills on a hot day.....

Cheers Keith
 

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For the record, here is how to correctly time the injector pump in an RD28ETI:

1. Set No. 1 piston at TDC on its compression
stroke.
2. Remove injection tubes and air bleeder
on the back of injection pump.
3. Set dial gauge so its indicator points to
somewhere between 1.0 and 2.0 mm
(0.039 and 0.079 in) on the scale.
4. Turn crankshaft 1 turn clockwise and
check that dial gauge indicates the
same value again.
5. Turn crankshaft counterclockwise about
100 degrees, then turn crankshaft
clockwise slowly, and set dial gauge
indicator to 0 mm at the position it
stops.
6. Turn crankshaft clockwise and set the
injection timing mark on the crankshaft
pulley to the timing indicator.
7. Read plunger lift.
Plunger lift:
0.92±0.04 mm (0.0362±0.0016 in)
I When repeating the checking, start
with step 5.

Please note, the dial gauge kit can be purchased from eBay for under $60 delivered. And they are easy to use.

ADJUSTING
1. If plunger lift is not within the specified
value, adjust by turning injection pump.
I If indication is smaller than the specified
value, turn pump body away
from engine.
I If indication is larger than the specified
value, turn pump body towards
engine.
2. Tighten injection pump securing bolts
and nuts.
Nut:
: 16 --21 N⋅m
(1.6 - 2.1 kg-m, 12 - 15 ft-lb)
Bolt:
: 22 --29 N⋅m
(2.2 - 3.0 kg-m, 16 - 22 ft-lb)
3. Remove dial gauge and install air
bleeder with new washer.
4. Install injection tubes.
Flare nut:
: 22 --25 N⋅m
(2.2 - 2.5 kg-m, 16 - 18 ft-lb)
5. Bleed air from fuel system
 

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For the record, here is how to correctly time the injector pump in an RD28ETI:

1. Set No. 1 piston at TDC on its compression
stroke.
2. Remove injection tubes and air bleeder
on the back of injection pump.
3. Set dial gauge so its indicator points to
somewhere between 1.0 and 2.0 mm
(0.039 and 0.079 in) on the scale.
4. Turn crankshaft 1 turn clockwise and
check that dial gauge indicates the
same value again.
5. Turn crankshaft counterclockwise about
100 degrees, then turn crankshaft
clockwise slowly, and set dial gauge
indicator to 0 mm at the position it
stops.
6. Turn crankshaft clockwise and set the
injection timing mark on the crankshaft
pulley to the timing indicator.
7. Read plunger lift.
Plunger lift:
0.92±0.04 mm (0.0362±0.0016 in)
I When repeating the checking, start
with step 5.

Please note, the dial gauge kit can be purchased from eBay for under $60 delivered. And they are easy to use.

ADJUSTING
1. If plunger lift is not within the specified
value, adjust by turning injection pump.
I If indication is smaller than the specified
value, turn pump body away
from engine.
I If indication is larger than the specified
value, turn pump body towards
engine.
2. Tighten injection pump securing bolts
and nuts.
Nut:
: 16 --21 N⋅m
(1.6 - 2.1 kg-m, 12 - 15 ft-lb)
Bolt:
: 22 --29 N⋅m
(2.2 - 3.0 kg-m, 16 - 22 ft-lb)
3. Remove dial gauge and install air
bleeder with new washer.
4. Install injection tubes.
Flare nut:
: 22 --25 N⋅m
(2.2 - 2.5 kg-m, 16 - 18 ft-lb)
5. Bleed air from fuel system
Cheers for that!
 
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