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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there.... relatively new to the forum.... I own/operate a business in Chinderah on the Tweed Coast called ON-ROAD Performance & Mechanical.

I am lookign for any help regarding the length on rear arms both upper and lower for a GU wagon with a 7inch lift.I am cutting and sleeving them with DOM steel tube. HE wants the 37inch tires/wheels to be in the centre of the arch at ride height or close to it.... it will be getting extended bump stops and trimming guards etc to limit the up-flex/guard issues.

so what i'm asking for is does anyone have measurements of their upper and lower arms with a 7inch lift and pics of it side on for me to see where the wheel sits????

any help is greatly appreciated as it is the first time i have made arm's to suit a factory suspension based setup as we normally do custom coil conversions, spring overs, diff conversion etc. thanks

Michael
ON-ROAD Performance & Mechanical
1/27 Morton Street Chinderah
NSW 2487
 

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sorry to say i dont think you'll get much help here with that lift question. jet6 has 6 my mate has 5 i have 4... and i reckon 4 and below is the norm here. good luck!
 

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"Toxic Personality"
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been there. . . done that. . . i had 9inches in my GQ. leave the standard arms in. . . get longer adjustable upper arms. . . you will be fine.

either that or cut the old arms and mounts off all together and do a rear long-arm conversion.(lengthen arms by about 300mm. and move chassis mounts to suit.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah I have talked to a few professional suspension people such as those mentioned above and all say leave the standard lower arm length alone.... problem being is the customer has had a 7inch lifter wagon before done by soemone else and had longer lower arms and upper's to centre the wheel in the guard at ride height..... I can understand what he wants but also the effect of what will happen on uptravel with extended lower arms.

thanks for the advice people.... I can work it out like i have done for custom coiled rear end setups before but thought i'd throw a post up here anyway to see if anyone could give me there measurements to make it a little easier and give me somehwere to start from.

thanks again.

Does anyone have a pic of a patrol with 7inch lift or 6 inch lift and 37inch tires???
 

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"Toxic Personality"
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the above photo is with stock length lower arms, this is a pic of stock lower arms when compressed. wheels are mickey Thompson 15x10's -58mm offset on maxxis 37x12.5 creepy crawlies. -you see the issue if you make them say 50mm longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the pics mate..... very helpful.... called the customer.... he still wants longer lower arms even though i said i have seen pics of them fitting with standard length arms... so we discussed the options and have decided to go with 20mm longer arms on the lower and adjustable top arms.... are those pics with adjustable uppers???? body lift or no body lift???? if they are with adjustable uppers how much longer are they adjusted to?
 

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are those pics with adjustable uppers???? body lift or no body lift???
Stock length upper and lower arms. no bodylift. -there will be serious fouling on the rear guards with anything like a 20mm extension to the trailing arms.

even with stock arms the diff is in dead center of the rear wheel arch on paralleled wheel travel(ie: jumping the car the wheels are pushed up into the guards at the same rate both sides)

-but what happens on flex(one wheel all the way up, the other wheel all the way down) because your rear diff moves on a graded radius. . . as one of your wheels drops, it moves forward in the ark of the trailing arms. but your other wheel -going up. . . moves rearward as your trailing arms on that side of the car are straightened out,

so on a 6-7in lift with a lot of wheel travel, you end up with your diff on quite an angle(up to down, and front to back) rear wheel being the one thats up, front wheel the one thats forward.

because of the average position of the trailing arm mounts on the diff(way inside the track), this angle is exasperated. what you end up with is rear wheel steering -or crabbing. with the upper wheel pointing out on the front and in on the rear. coupled to the fitting of 37inch tyres you get quite a noticeable affect of the wheel even closer to the rear guard.

best way to get around this if fit a 5inch lift, 37's will still fit fine. get a proper wizard longarm 3link kit.
 

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