Mate just did mine this week, front and rear pads (purchased from Bursons) total 97 bucks.
Discs didn't need replacing/ machining... Took me 1.5 hours total, being lazy.

If your not under warranty(?) sounds like your getting ripped to me.
But if you can't do it yourself...get another quote.
Cheers

 

Probably about right. You could do it alot cheaper yourself but the mechanic needs to pay his over heads and eat.

 

Hi ianbqld,Mate do the job yourshelf it's a easy job to do, you just need an hour or in my case a few hour because of the kids playing up.Take wheels off and have a look at the disc's, if they look ok no need to machine.I changed my brake pad the other month and my disc's where fine.I used Bandix pads I got them off ebay and they cost $72.92 for front and same price for the back.I almost forgot to say use some brake pad lube on the back of the pads to stop squeal to.
Cheers.
Troy

 

I replaced both front and rear discs and pads for less than that including delivery.

 

Brake Pads

Thank you all for your replies. I am thinking to do the job myself. Cheers.

 

Ianbqld,
it really depends on what condition your rotors are in now. The pads can be around $95 to $150 depending on what you get (some are over $200 but don't know if it is worth it).

I found Bendix pads to be good but a little too hard. Nissan 4.8 Pads were a softer compound and give better grip than anything I have used.

Rotors are likely to have uneven wear on them, not necessarily warped but grooves and smooth or rough spots. For best pad life and grip it is best to put new pads onto a clean new disc or machined face or you might be wasting money.

You can buy DBA slotted rotors fairly cheap (around 150 each) so not worth spending more than that on machining old ones.

You might be best off getting another quote and ask the brake guy a few questions about the condition and what really needs doing. Including the current disc thickness and minimum allowable thickness.
Alternatively, if everything else looks good, it has been stopping well, no shudders, wobbles etc. then you might just chuck some new Bendix or Nissan pads in and see how it goes without touching anything else.

BUT remember your brakes are a pretty important safety component and if they do seriously need work, so you can stop in an emergency then do not cut corners.

 

Brake Pads

Thanks for providing good detail. I agree that brakes are vital to the safety of ourselves and others so do not wish to cut any corners. Just determine a fair and reasonable market place price and good practice such as machining the rotors and discs.

We will be leave for Cape York from Brisbane in a few weeks and my regular mechanic said he thought the brakes might need doing before then. I have 87,000kms up on the originals but haven't noticed anything different myself and the Patrol is my daily drive.

So appreciate the comments in this forum to make an informed decision. Thanks.

 

We will be leave for Cape York from Brisbane in a few weeks and my regular mechanic said he thought the brakes might need doing before then. I have 87,000kms up on the originals but haven't noticed anything different myself and the Patrol is my daily drive.

In that case, sounds like nothing else major.
I would ask him to show you how much brake pad is remaining. You should be able to see the thickness yourself through the rear of the calliper (with the wheel off and a torch).

They have close to 10mm of pad thickness when new, if they are down less than 4-5mm, or uneven from side to side, I would not risk your trip, just replace them.

Ask him straight-up if it needs machining or if you can safely get away with just the pads.

 

Supercheap today, Bendix pads db1361UP(ultra premium)$72.99,get another set free.store stock only I think.

 

Just replaced mine at 170k as the rears were down to metal Was expecting it, but was still unsure what I was going to replace them with. Had read all sorts of opinions, and AFter lots of phone calls, I decided to go with the Bendix 4WD Hybrid on special at Auto Barn for $80 each end. No machining, I have not had any shudder etc, and I must say from the first minute they feel excellent!! Have done a couple of hundred km's now and some steep hill descents and they are very good IMO, massive improvement in feel and performance over the well worn original pads. So impressed I went and got the road version for the VY commodore too, and they feel just as responsive, smooth and consistent in wet and dry. I know they are dear compared to some other brands, but if they produce the results I think worth it) Time will tell of course!! Cheers.

 

As a personal rule I always get the rotors skimmed on my patrol when doing new pads. This ensures maximum brake performance and proper pad bed in. So far the best pads I can find are EBC yellow stuff which is a race compound that also works when cold. Theres lots of crap pads out there. I find Patrols to be generally under braked and especially when at GVM.

Mobile on disc machining is good. A bloke comes to your house in a van and hooks up a machine. Its more accurate than taking the disc off due to tolerances in the mounting parts. No need to fiddle around with taking discs out.

 

I ended up with the Bendix pads and had the machining done. Have since been up the Cape and back towing my trailer and can say these brakes are fine.

Thanks everybody.