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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
when I asked the air bag man guys, I think it was around 5K for their top controller...
I'll be making my own with an arduino and 3d printer for that coin...
Yeah I thought their setup would be quite expensive.. I’m going to make my own control as well.. I’m thinking of adapting a wireless one controller with a auto manual switch so when in manual I can adjust through the wireless one control ( only really want to use that as it has 3 programmable settings) and when in auto have it linked to a height control valve and have it set to the correct usable height of the bag for the best performance.. so if I load it upon only have to flick it to auto and it should bring it back to the same level all the time..
 

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Yeah I thought their setup would be quite expensive.. I’m going to make my own control as well.. I’m thinking of adapting a wireless one controller with a auto manual switch so when in manual I can adjust through the wireless one control ( only really want to use that as it has 3 programmable settings) and when in auto have it linked to a height control valve and have it set to the correct usable height of the bag for the best performance.. so if I load it upon only have to flick it to auto and it should bring it back to the same level all the time..

Have a look around to see if you can find some height sensors from the ACCUAIR system, or if there is something similar from another type of sensor. There are few sellers getting rid of their ACCUAIR stock now that the company has gone out of business.

I found that pressure sensor control for height adjustment was really inconsistent because the actual pressure needed is different on every corner due to load difference to get the same height. But the pressure operated system was too inaccurate to get it right. I tried a controller from Dakota Digital, it was just crap. Went up down past the set point several times over shooting the mark, was apain in the but on auto setting it just didn't come with the Patrol range of suspension. I think they were designed for street Slammers to drag their ass on the road or do hops in car parks to show off, not for sensible airbag vehicles.
 

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That was my thougt too, pressure difference in bags would not be enough to control height accurately. I was looking at the height sensors for the LandRovers as they are just a potentiometer that you can read from an arduino. Combine that with a couple of level switches/accelerometers and that should do it...
We'll see soon enough, the hard part is getting the right bags, you guys have helped a lot with that, so thanks again.
 

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That was my thougt too, pressure difference in bags would not be enough to control height accurately. I was looking at the height sensors for the LandRovers as they are just a potentiometer that you can read from an arduino. Combine that with a couple of level switches/accelerometers and that should do it...
We'll see soon enough, the hard part is getting the right bags, you guys have helped a lot with that, so thanks again.
These are what I'm using. Accuair e-Level+ Touchpad Model

It might be worth checking the price and availability of the Landrover sensors compared to the ACCUAIR. Talk to Air Ride Suspensions. Pretty sure they are also a potentiometer that you could read easily. They can also be clocked, to mount in almost any orientation and have a good range of movement and sensitivity from the arm set up. There are other brand coppies around as well that might suit.

I picked up some spare sensors very cheap from marketplace because someone had not ended up using them in a kit and wanted to get rid of them cheap. But some sellers are really price gouging with any left over parts from ACCUAIR because critical things like the controller touchpad upgrade version is no longer available they think it is made of gold or something.

534407
 

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not a bad price for the kit considering...
i guess it's probably not a bad idea to steer clear of LR parts when thinking about reliability lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
These are what I'm using. Accuair e-Level+ Touchpad Model

It might be worth checking the price and availability of the Landrover sensors compared to the ACCUAIR. Talk to Air Ride Suspensions. Pretty sure they are also a potentiometer that you could read easily. They can also be clocked, to mount in almost any orientation and have a good range of movement and sensitivity from the arm set up. There are other brand coppies around as well that might suit.

I picked up some spare sensors very cheap from marketplace because someone had not ended up using them in a kit and wanted to get rid of them cheap. But some sellers are really price gouging with any left over parts from ACCUAIR because critical things like the controller touchpad upgrade version is no longer available they think it is made of gold or something.

View attachment 534407
Have you got photos of where you have mounted yours..?
how do they go when articulating when 4wding.. are they always trying to inflate and deflate..?
 

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My system is fully manual. My normal compressor supplies the air, and I have manual switches mounted in a tool box under the tray for inflation/deflation. This is combined with truck level control valves on a bypass line, which is switched open by 12v air horn solenoids. I have a switch on the dash for the solenoids. Main usage for me is loading/unloading stuff from the tray so having the switches under the tray works just fine. The airbag will increase in pressure and ride height as they heat up, so I set the ride height when stationary, and the dash switch connected to the level control is to make sure I can keep it there as I am driving. Once moving for a while, I can just turn the switch on for a few seconds if the airbags have been adjusted cold.
 

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Have you got photos of where you have mounted yours..?
how do they go when articulating when 4wding.. are they always trying to inflate and deflate..?
Actually no I have the sensors off at the moment and just using it on manual (will see if I cn find any fron when I first installed i all). I did a rebuild of diffs and arms a few years ago and left the sensors off till I get it all sorted again. I did have them just on temporary bent aluminum brackets close to the pivot point of each suspension arm. hose clamps around the arm. The rear was easy to set up as they can be tucked up close to the floor and out of harm's way. The pivot only needs to be positioned to get the upper control arm movement range. It can calculate the centre and top bottom of the travel and set that as the full range into the control system. It then uses that as the basis for full travel. You can set a low, medium or high ride setting, as well as a dump to bump stop setting for loading or getting into low car parks.

The front was more of a pain in the ass to find a safe mounting location on the factory type front pin into mushroom bush chassis mount. I had damage to one sensor getting pinched against the chassis. Since then I have changed front arms to the Superior Engineering Hybrid type chassis mounting which drops the arm down a lot in a drop box type bracket. When I put the sensors back I hope to have the front ones tucked into the chassis close to where the original pin type bush would have been so they are up above the arm for better protection.

As far as hunting height when off road the simple solution is just switch it to manual. But no it seems to recognise what is adjustment for levelling when on flat ground compared to what is happening when driving on uneven ground. The auto levelling I pretty much only used when on flat ground after I get out of the driveway, hit the button, let it settle on its height then switch back to manual and leave it alone. I have a rooftop fiberglass camper on my roof just about all the time and allow roof height at home that I have to get in under. I nearly had a disaster one day after I had had the battery disconnected and must have accidentally hit the auto function when I started up, it decided to re-learn all the height settings and proceeded to pump the suspension up to full height while the roof top camper was being forced into the carport roof I had to switch off compressors quickly to stop it. So keep it in manual mode till I am out and loaded up ready to go somewhere, then let it adjust the level on level ground.

I did try a few different things over the years. Someone on anothe air suspension forum group tols me how good it was to have cross linking of left right air bags to promote better suspension flex off road. They assured me that if I could have a valve to connect the left and right sides, then as one wheel is pushed up by a hump then the air movement to the other side forces the opposite wheel to articulate further. They obviously had never tested their idea themselves as it doesn't work anything like they suggested. In fact it was bloody dangerous and I almost ended up on my roof testing it out. Very bad idea on a side slope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Actually no I have the sensors off at the moment and just using it on manual (will see if I cn find any fron when I first installed i all). I did a rebuild of diffs and arms a few years ago and left the sensors off till I get it all sorted again. I did have them just on temporary bent aluminum brackets close to the pivot point of each suspension arm. hose clamps around the arm. The rear was easy to set up as they can be tucked up close to the floor and out of harm's way. The pivot only needs to be positioned to get the upper control arm movement range. It can calculate the centre and top bottom of the travel and set that as the full range into the control system. It then uses that as the basis for full travel. You can set a low, medium or high ride setting, as well as a dump to bump stop setting for loading or getting into low car parks.

The front was more of a pain in the ass to find a safe mounting location on the factory type front pin into mushroom bush chassis mount. I had damage to one sensor getting pinched against the chassis. Since then I have changed front arms to the Superior Engineering Hybrid type chassis mounting which drops the arm down a lot in a drop box type bracket. When I put the sensors back I hope to have the front ones tucked into the chassis close to where the original pin type bush would have been so they are up above the arm for better protection.

As far as hunting height when off road the simple solution is just switch it to manual. But no it seems to recognise what is adjustment for levelling when on flat ground compared to what is happening when driving on uneven ground. The auto levelling I pretty much only used when on flat ground after I get out of the driveway, hit the button, let it settle on its height then switch back to manual and leave it alone. I have a rooftop fiberglass camper on my roof just about all the time and allow roof height at home that I have to get in under. I nearly had a disaster one day after I had had the battery disconnected and must have accidentally hit the auto function when I started up, it decided to re-learn all the height settings and proceeded to pump the suspension up to full height while the roof top camper was being forced into the carport roof I had to switch off compressors quickly to stop it. So keep it in manual mode till I am out and loaded up ready to go somewhere, then let it adjust the level on level ground.

I did try a few different things over the years. Someone on anothe air suspension forum group tols me how good it was to have cross linking of left right air bags to promote better suspension flex off road. They assured me that if I could have a valve to connect the left and right sides, then as one wheel is pushed up by a hump then the air movement to the other side forces the opposite wheel to articulate further. They obviously had never tested their idea themselves as it doesn't work anything like they suggested. In fact it was bloody dangerous and I almost ended up on my roof testing it out. Very bad idea on a side slope.
Ok thanks mate awesome work.. I just have to try find some level switches that will suite what I want to do.. sounds like you do practically the same as what I thought I’d do once set up..
I’ve looked into the accuir air systems and the look good but not cheap by any means..
 

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Ok thanks mate awesome work.. I just have to try find some level switches that will suite what I want to do.. sounds like you do practically the same as what I thought I’d do once set up..
I’ve looked into the accuir air systems and the look good but not cheap by any means..
Unfortunately with the ACCUAIR systems now the company is out of buisness, any products are not covered by warranty which puts an extra risk on using that gear.

Mobs like AirRide Suspensions have come out with their own replacement alternative gear very simiar to the ACCUAIR. Air Lift
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Unfortunately with the ACCUAIR systems now the company is out of buisness, any products are not covered by warranty which puts an extra risk on using that gear.

Mobs like AirRide Suspensions have come out with their own replacement alternative gear very simiar to the ACCUAIR. Air Lift
All looks good and the quality looks good but it’s all ridiculously expensive for what it is.. I think I’m going to have a go at designing and building my own control.. I f I can find the right components to adapt to my control I should be right..
 

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Any of you running direct from compressor, with out a tank?

Cheers.
I run from two air tanks under the body. The advantages in running a tank system is to have more volume readily available when you inflate it is more controlled and faster. Also keeping the air supply clean and dry is very important to the air valves lasting longer. They do suffer from corrosion internally if there is any moisture condensation straight out of the compressor is not ideal.

I use the tanks to trap and drain moisture. But I have also installed an auto dump filter and moisture trap directly after the compressors so that it captures everything coming out and filters it before it can go into the air lines or tanks.

The auto dump filter is also excellent as it dumps moisture every time the compressors start or stop. Nothing can sit there and promote condensation which will travel back up the lines to settle out in the compressor and possibly stuff it up too. The auto dump valve also unloads the pressure from the outlet of the compressor so that it doesn't have to try and start up under some air back pressure load which can also make the compressor struggle and shorten it's life. ARB compressors are bad for busting the bolt that holds the piston crank shaft. It often happens as the compressor tries to start but there is 60 to 70 psi pressure against the compressor when its starting.

534464
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
That was my thougt too, pressure difference in bags would not be enough to control height accurately. I was looking at the height sensors for the LandRovers as they are just a potentiometer that you can read from an arduino. Combine that with a couple of level switches/accelerometers and that should do it...
We'll see soon enough, the hard part is getting the right bags, you guys have helped a lot with that, so thanks again.
Hey mate, have you built your own system using the arduino kits or possibly PLC integration..? im looking at creating my own levelling system that is fairly basic.. could even me done with magnet reed switches if set at the desired height..?
i know there a a lot of kits out at the moment but they are quite expensive and i only need a kit for the rear..
i am thinking of an auto/manual switch in cab so when in auto will inflate to a set height regardless of load, once at that height turn the system off.. in manual mode obviously just adjust ride height manually using a switch..
 

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Hey Mitch.
Still in the design phase for the controller, I only want my system to have 4 buttons/actions.
  1. Dump air - Camping: Release all valves for X number of seconds, then add air until level)
  2. Road height: Add/release air from each bag until analogue input is within range for road height, then add/release air until level sensor within value
  3. Offroad height: Add/release air from each bag until analogue input is within range for road height, then add/release air until level sensor within value
  4. Auto Level: add/release air until level
To do this, I think all I need is an arduino, 4 wheel height sensors (that have enough travel), 8 solenoid valves, 4 pressure sensors, and one or two level sensors (don't use accelerometers). Might even through on an LCD screen shield to make readouts compact. The end goal is to have a compact system that I can just press a button in one of 3 events and it does it's thing, also give me the ability to compensate off camber terrain with the suspension (action 4). Just need to do a bit more research into air solenoids as I want it to be compact but not restrict air flow too much.

Cheers,
 

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I run from two air tanks under the body. The advantages in running a tank system is to have more volume readily available when you inflate it is more controlled and faster. Also keeping the air supply clean and dry is very important to the air valves lasting longer. They do suffer from corrosion internally if there is any moisture condensation straight out of the compressor is not ideal.
Cheers for that. What volume air storage do you have? If you did it again, would you increase/decrease capacity?
 

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Cheers for that. What volume air storage do you have? If you did it again, would you increase/decrease capacity?
The two CO2 tanks I have used are 7 L each I think from memory. I have a set 150psi max but can bump it up to 200 or 250 but don't want to over stress the compressors. That gives me fairly good capacity for a fast inflation of the first lift up. But the compressors need to kick in to make more adjustments.

Having too much tank capacity can also have a downside depending on how much compressor capacity you have. Once you use the available tank volume then the compressors are having to fill the tank volume as well as fill the airbag or tyres whatever you are pumping up. So sometimes too much volume actually slows you down. This size for me is about right for what I need and they fit pretty well under the chassis without hanging down. I probably wouldn't go bigger than this for my needs. Faster, as in higher flow volume and higher pressure compressors would be nice some times, but this does the job adequately.

I have been using the ARB compressors for quite a long time and am generally quite happy with them for speed and compact size. They do suffer from being started under air pressure load and had a few of the earlier models failed as they snapped the crank shaft bolt off when starting up against back pressure. The solution is to have an "unloading valve" which drops the pressure at the compressor when it is switched off but still holds tank pressure with a non return valve. This way the compressor is unloaded and when it starts up the piston is not having to get moving against any back pressure, which I think was the cause of failures.

I also recently put in a filter water trap unit that has auto dump drain valve for condensation. This is great as it dumps any moisture in the filter bowl at start up and at shut down drains the moisture again. That way there is no condensation sitting in the compressor hoses where it usually ends up going back to condense in the compressor and cause corrosion.
 

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Thanks, Geordie4x4.

That's a good amount of pressure, not sure my compressor will manage that reliably so might be time to move to a new compressor. Viair compressors seem like a solid option, but I prefer the compact design of the ARB Twin, notwithstanding your experience of failure...
14L of air storage seems pretty manageable under the body, glad to hear that has been sufficient. Hoping to find an aluminium tank with the right dimensions for where I want to put it, or possibly using my bar work as storage.
Also good points on unloading the compressor and water trap, both are things I will need to incorporate.

Thanks again.
 

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This thread is great timing for me too!
So good to see you blokes sharing your wealth of knowledge.
I visited Airbag Man earlier in the year to check out a staff members airbagged Patrol.I got the impression it is a recent conversion and they had only recently finished making the sensor mounting brackets.
The near $6000 asking price for the complete set up has held me back at this stage, but you guys have made me realize I can probably do some of it myself.
I can definitely fabricate mounts for the airbags, but if Airbag Man have got theirs sorted now, I'd be inclined to buy off them to save time. I have a few projects on the go at the moment.
I don't have the time or electronics knowledge to design my own Accuair style management, but figured I'll start out with manual control.
I want something similar to Geordie. I'd like the sweet spot for road driving to be around standard height, and be able to raise it 2 inches or so for offroad and be able to air it out so it sits on the bump stops when parked.
Airbag man didn't mention any options for bag length, but told me the kit they sell ends up about 1" above standard height for road driving. I guess that is the sweet spot.
Has anyone got any advice on the best way to go about achieving what I want ?
 

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Thanks, Geordie4x4.

That's a good amount of pressure, not sure my compressor will manage that reliably so might be time to move to a new compressor. Viair compressors seem like a solid option, but I prefer the compact design of the ARB Twin, notwithstanding your experience of failure...
14L of air storage seems pretty manageable under the body, glad to hear that has been sufficient. Hoping to find an aluminium tank with the right dimensions for where I want to put it, or possibly using my bar work as storage.
Also good points on unloading the compressor and water trap, both are things I will need to incorporate.

Thanks again.
For airbag inflation you really don't need more than 100 psi as tank reservoir pressure, most of the time the bags will only need to be somewhere from 35 to possibly 65psi depending on the particular bag, load and height needed.

The tanks I used were old tall skinny shaped CO2 fire extinguishers that were 2000psi working pressure rated CIG made aluminium cylinders. Very heavy duty to use only up to 150psi have a massive safety margin. I was not at all concerned about drilling holes for a drain valve and extra fittings tapped into the very thick aluminium base area which was at least 10 to 15mm thick. They are also more than OK to take a bit of a beating under the chassis.


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