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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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@geordie4x4 What filter and auto dump are you using??

I assume you have these fitted some distance from the compressor where the air charge is cooler before the CO2 tanks.

Just curious, have you checked the tanks to see if there is little water getting to them.

I use a endless air system and some 3 meters of 3/4 hose to the tank with a water trap before the tank and a toilet roll dryer filter after the tank before the solenoids. I still have problematic water issues with the valves and water in the tank. Tanks is a generic tank with auto drain fitted. I have a ute so tank is fitted under the tray behind the rear wheels.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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This thread is great timing for me too!
So good to see you blokes sharing your wealth of knowledge.
I visited Airbag Man earlier in the year to check out a staff members airbagged Patrol.I got the impression it is a recent conversion and they had only recently finished making the sensor mounting brackets.
The near $6000 asking price for the complete set up has held me back at this stage, but you guys have made me realize I can probably do some of it myself.
I can definitely fabricate mounts for the airbags, but if Airbag Man have got theirs sorted now, I'd be inclined to buy off them to save time. I have a few projects on the go at the moment.
I don't have the time or electronics knowledge to design my own Accuair style management, but figured I'll start out with manual control.
I want something similar to Geordie. I'd like the sweet spot for road driving to be around standard height, and be able to raise it 2 inches or so for offroad and be able to air it out so it sits on the bump stops when parked.
Airbag man didn't mention any options for bag length, but told me the kit they sell ends up about 1" above standard height for road driving. I guess that is the sweet spot.
Has anyone got any advice on the best way to go about achieving what I want ?
Happy to help, but I thought this has been pretty well summed up in this thread already.

What specifically do you want to know?
 

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@geordie4x4 What filter and auto dump are you using??

I assume you have these fitted some distance from the compressor where the air charge is cooler before the CO2 tanks.

Just curious, have you checked the tanks to see if there is little water getting to them.

I use a endless air system and some 3 meters of 3/4 hose to the tank with a water trap before the tank and a toilet roll dryer filter after the tank before the solenoids. I still have problematic water issues with the valves and water in the tank. Tanks is a generic tank with auto drain fitted. I have a ute so tank is fitted under the tray behind the rear wheels.
The filter I am using is from SMC, AF Series from memory. I will have to find the details as it was an option with the dump and different normally open or closed valve system for the drain. https://au.element14.com/smc/af20-f...28|&CMP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SMART-SHOPPING-AUTOMATION

Page 4 of this pdf shows the auto drain valve specifications AF30 to 40-A-X2729


The tanks, yes are located a reasonable distance after the compressors, I do have drain valves on each tank at a low point where I can do a check each time the car is nose down in the driveway. The air flow is through one then the second and the first tank would typically capture the majority of the condensation. Before adding the auto filter yes it was collecting quite a lot of condensation in the more humid months of the year, and there would be condensation back up in the ARB compressors which have that little reservoir tank built in to the compressor outlet.

I have stainless braided hose out of each compressor from the lowest point, down to a collection manifold and drain point, then the filter and a non-return to maintain tank pressure when the compressors dump and de-pressurise or unload at the compressors. From the new filter it goes to the tanks, then back to another filter/regulator before the valve unit. That all seems to be working pretty well now to keep things clean and dry.

Even the return condensation that used to collect back up in the compressors has almost gone too, which should help them last longer.

This is the first collection point directly below the compressors, with drain. I used to reach under and drain this every day, but the auto dump filter takes care of that now.

534683


Will find a photo of the filter unit when I can.
 

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Happy to help, but I thought this has been pretty well summed up in this thread already.

What specifically do you want to know?
Hi Shayne, thanks for the offer of help.
From what I’ve read the 5412 bags would suit what I want to do.
The next question is whether to bite the bullet and buy bags and installation kit from Airbag Man or make my own mounts.
Unfortunately no one on this thread has experience with Airbag Man’s latest kit.
I imagined buying a compressor from Airbag Man would be a good idea, because they should know what is up to the task?
Will definitely remote mount air tank and fit air filter and auto dump per Geordie’s setup.
 

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1988 Maverick TD42,
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Boltz,

If you intend to use the compressor for tyres inflation, you might find the Airbag man compressor to be an asthmatic. It has about 30% cfm output compared to the arb twin, and is only a %50 duty cycle.
The bolt snapping restart that Geordie4x4 posted about is concerning, but putting in an unloading valve seems a good fix. Furthermore, the arb units are fully rebuild able with readily available parts from ARB, which to me, makes the upfront investment a reasonable one.
I am in no way an ARB fan boy, but compressors and DCDC chargers is where they got it right IMO.
 

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Boltz,

If you intend to use the compressor for tyres inflation, you might find the Airbag man compressor to be an asthmatic. It has about 30% cfm output compared to the arb twin, and is only a %50 duty cycle.
The bolt snapping restart that Geordie4x4 posted about is concerning, but putting in an unloading valve seems a good fix. Furthermore, the arb units are fully rebuild able with readily available parts from ARB, which to me, makes the upfront investment a reasonable one.
I am in no way an ARB fan boy, but compressors and DCDC chargers is where they got it right IMO.
Cheers Seth
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Hi Shayne, thanks for the offer of help.
From what I’ve read the 5412 bags would suit what I want to do.
The next question is whether to bite the bullet and buy bags and installation kit from Airbag Man or make my own mounts.
Unfortunately no one on this thread has experience with Airbag Man’s latest kit.
I imagined buying a compressor from Airbag Man would be a good idea, because they should know what is up to the task?
Will definitely remove mount air tank and fit air filter and auto dump per Geordie’s setup.
I did my own installation, but of course that takes time and effort, as opposed to buying the kit. Personal decision I think.

As for the compressor, I have a big Boss unit that serves all purposes.
 

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the guys running bags, do you find the ride to be better or its main advantage is the ability to manage different loads and heights?
Yes the latter is probably the more important factor for me as long as ride is reasonable.

Having said that there have been times that I thought it was bloody horrible when height wasn't adjusted right too high or too low for the bag length and when I had shocks that just weren't ever going to be dialed in right.

But when I finally got the bag length right for the lift I want and adjusted height in the sweet spot, with decent shocks it is a pretty nice ride both on and off road compared to anything I have had before.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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In theory air springs should be more progressive than a steel spring for the same weight. Shocks are a huge part in how it rides or performs. I expect if you go with a 2 bypass shock with ride height centre of the bypasses you will probably have a easier time getting them perfect. This allows you to have a valve pack set soft for normal road going bumps and the bypasses to control the larger movements better for a more progressive feel. Air springs have a lot more built in absorption than a steel spring so in theory they should be better for live heavy axle systems.

In the mid 80's Range Rover changed to air springs on their live axle 4 door wagon, and yes they were by far a nicer ride than the steel spring version. But RR was more about comfort and road noise. I can confirm air springs have a lot less suspension noise transferred to the body, especially off road or wheeling.
 

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For you blokes considering an airbag set-up, I have given this considerable thought.

For most people, I think you will be better off staying with coils. Have a real hard think about it before you start. It is very difficult to get right in comparison to coil springs in my experience. Yes, you will be able to raise it up and down, but to get it to ride well may test your patience, and bank account.

And I cannot tell you what the perfect set-up is, as after 5 years and lots of money I still do not know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
What size fitting/airline is everyone using..
all of the readily available valve block come with 1/4 fitting and suitable threads for that size but my airbags have a 3/8th fitting, would that size difference make a huge difference or would the 1/4 fittings be fine..?
 

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Here is a good calculation: 1/4" vs. 3/8" air hose, does it matter?
So 1/4 is roughly double the volume. Provided your compressor can keep up, or you have enough tank volume, it should be faster. However this also depends on the solenoids and the port on the bags themselves. It's a bit like the tyre inflation issue, the limiting factor is the Schrader valve which is why all the big compressors fill at the same speed (unless you remove the valve core).
 

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I think from memory mine is all 1/4 it's about 6mm outer dia truck air brake fittings and Nylon line.

The Acuuair valve block came with much larger Nylon line fittings for the low rider carpark hopping type boys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I think from memory mine is all 1/4 it's about 6mm outer dia truck air brake fittings and Nylon line.

The Acuuair valve block came with much larger Nylon line fittings for the low rider carpark hopping type boys.
ok thanks mate, yeah im trying to compare if going everything 3/8 over 1/4 is actual beneficial for what i want to do.. you have roughly the same size bags as me how do they go inflating with 1/4..?
 

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I had the larger fittings (the largest I could) in the bags because I was running my bags with accumulator tanks to increase the volume. Bigger fittings would help rather than hinder you if you are planning electronic control and what faster action.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I had the larger fittings (the largest I could) in the bags because I was running my bags with accumulator tanks to increase the volume. Bigger fittings would help rather than hinder you if you are planning electronic control and what faster action.

Jim
thanks mate, might be a stupid question but what is the benefit of running an accumulator with an airbag..?
 

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ok thanks mate, yeah im trying to compare if going everything 3/8 over 1/4 is actual beneficial for what i want to do.. you have roughly the same size bags as me how do they go inflating with 1/4..?
Still pretty fast inflation like 8 to 10 seconds all four corners. I have two 7L tanks at 150psi. That's just enough to initially fill all four bags, then compressors kick in, bigger lines probably wouldn't be any advantage to my system as the air storage volume is my limit.

If I wanted to do bouncies with fast up down then forget it, compressor wouldn't keep up anyway.
 
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