[gu_perol]

I have a GU Patrol 2008. Swapped what I though were factory 17" steel rims for 16" -38 procomp steel rims.

There's this section in the wheel studs where there's no thread. I'm worried that the wheel nut won't press the steel wheel against the hub because to me, it's clear that the space left with no thread is larger than the thickness of the steel wheel. I've search the forums tirelessly and seems like everyone is using steel wheels on these vehicles with no issues and no mention of these weird unthreaded section in the studs.

Should I be worried about this? People suggested getting a 8mm spacer to fill in that space and others have said that it's better to change the studs for others with thread all the way.

 

[geeyoutoo]

Measure from where the stud head seats in the back of the hub through to where the stud emerges at the front, there is a good chance that is deeper than the splines on the stud, only takes a minute to check.

 

[gu_perol]

hey man, thanks for such a quick response.

I don't have the vehicle with me or the studs, they're in the shop. In the last picture, the stud is seated properly on the hub. We measured the section with no thread and it's a good 8mm. We couldn't get a good measurement of the thickness of the wheel but it's definitely under 8mm.

So to answer your question, visually I'd say the measurement from where the head seats to where the stud emerges is the space between the arrows pointing up.

Clearly, I'm not an expert on this stuff. The vehicles I've seen all have studs threaded all the way to the head and looking at this section with no thread on the Patrol makes me think that the wheel will just not seat tight enough against the hub. Maybe I'm overthinking it?

 

[klappers]

There is a difference between the front and rear studs on a GU patrol. Perhaps you have the wrong ones

 

[gu_perol]

I ordered them from the dealer last week. The ones for the rear are indeed longer. These ones that I have on my pictures are all front wheel studs.

 

[klappers]

I ordered them from the dealer last week. The ones for the rear are indeed longer. These ones that I have on my pictures are all front wheel studs.

So genuine wheel studs for the front of a GU patrol?

 

[gu_perol]

Yes sir, ordered them from the Nissan dealer here in Costa Rica. I'm looking at the the studs sold at patrol a part and they seem to be the same.

 

[klappers]

I have a GU Patrol 2008. Swapped what I though were factory 17" steel rims for 16" -38 procomp steel rims.

There's this section in the wheel studs where there's no thread. I'm worried that the wheel nut won't press the steel wheel against the hub because to me, it's clear that the space left with no thread is larger than the thickness of the steel wheel. I've search the forums tirelessly and seems like everyone is using steel wheels on these vehicles with no issues and no mention of these weird unthreaded section in the studs.

Should I be worried about this? People suggested getting a 8mm spacer to fill in that space and others have said that it's better to change the studs for others with thread all the way.

View attachment 550994
View attachment 550996

View attachment 550995

So, bottom photo is your front hub with the new studs installed?

Middle photo is just showing new studs with new rim?

Do you still have the old studs? Are they the same?

I have swapped from GU IV 17" alloy rims, to steel rims and back to 16" GU III alloys, never ever had a problem. The wheel nut will keep on tightening. Try open ended wheel nuts

 

[gu_perol]

Yeah sorry let me explain the photos:

1. Old Acorn nut with new factory stud
2. Kinda showing how the stud would fit in the wheel.
3. My current front hub with old factory studs. Some are broken due to being overtightened but that's a different story.

The studs are exactly the same. I got this vehicle with very low mileage and doubt any of this was changed. The US embassy owned it and drove it on-road only.

I also noticed that some of the studs were damaged because the nut was overtightened and managed to find its way into the unthreaded part of the stud. I read a thread from 2009 were a guy used a file to create thread on that part of the stud. Seems like a bad idea to me. I'm suspicious if the nut is not right for the wheel, but I was under the impression that steel pro comp wheels used acorn nuts which is what I have

 

[klappers]

Yeah sorry let me explain the photos:

1. Old Acorn nut with new factory stud
2. Kinda showing how the stud would fit in the wheel.
3. My current front hub with old factory studs. Some are broken due to being overtightened but that's a different story.

The studs are exactly the same. I got this vehicle with very low mileage and doubt any of this was changed. The US embassy owned it and drove it on-road only.

I also noticed that some of the studs were damaged because the nut was overtightened and managed to find its way into the unthreaded part of the stud. I read a thread from 2009 were a guy used a file to create thread on that part of the stud. Seems like a bad idea to me. I'm suspicious if the nut is not right for the wheel, but I was under the impression that steel pro comp wheels used acorn nuts which is what I have

Something is very off and it's not the wheel stud.

 

[rgren2]

Something is very off and it's not the wheel stud.

I was pondering this, I have a smaller acorn nut, photo a little blurry, but the thread does not start at the beginning of the nut, maybe you have the wrong type of nuts. 🤔

 

[klappers]

I was pondering this, I have a smaller acorn nut, photo a little blurry, but the thread does not start at the beginning of the nut, maybe you have the wrong type of nuts. 🤔
View attachment 551022 View attachment 551023

Those are the same as the ones I have/use

 

[gu_perol]

Perfect seems like this may be the issue. I assume yours are OEM nuts, right? I'll check with the dealer tomorrow morning.

I went to the parts shop and got D22 studs and open ended nuts. Here's what I think:

1. Open ended nuts will achieve nothing. I was told maybe the nuts I had were too short and bottoming out, not engaging the stud all the way through. This was not the case, my nuts were larger than the threaded part of the stud by a fair bit.

2. Aftermarket D22 studs may solve the problem since the section with no thread is way shorter than the patrol OEM stud.

Aftermarket D22 stud on the right
OEM Patrol stud

 

[rgren2]

I assume yours are OEM nuts

Just one from my boat trailer.

 

[Dazz09]

Have you actually tried a wheel on it with the oem studs?.

I certainly wouldnt be fitting aftermarket d22 studs....even to a d22.

 

[klappers]

The weight should be supported by the hub.

I'm still not convinced it's the studs

 

[rgren2]

I'm still not convinced it's the studs

Nuts. 🤔😉
Rims. 🤔

 

[klappers]

Nuts. 🤔😉
Rims. 🤔

Well, I've run very similar rims without trouble. My money is on nuts....

Unless something is wrong with the hub. There should be a fair chunk of the stud inside the hub

 

[Midman62]

check where the thread actually starts inside the nut as it will cover the unthreaded section of the wheel stud. this will allow the taper to lock on to the rim.

 

[bazzle]

The weight should be supported by the hub.

I'm still not convinced it's the studs

Correct , the Hub holds the vehicle weight. The studs and nuts stop rotation and pass torque.. The coining around the tapers should make the distance correct .